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Old 03-21-2012, 11:31 PM   #1
moby4dick
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'04 WRX
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Post STi cluster swap -- ABS & Brake lights

Hi All,

Well I thought I would try and contribute, at least in a small way, to the community since I've gone here so many times and gotten so much helpful info.

I have an '04 WRX and swapped in an '05 STi cluster. There have been many people finding the ABS light and brake lights stay on, as did I. In part this was due to '05 clusters using this "Reverse Circuit", which caused an open path to ground from the vehicle side to be seen as a ground, causing the light to come on. In other words, on when there's no fault, but off when there was, or the reverse of what you want.

Buried in this thread http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1458180, ProDrive Dreams suggested a "reverse" reverse circuit using a standard 30A relay. You simply interrupt B3, ABS light, use the ABS fault signal as ground to the relay coil (terminal 85) and find a source of 12V (to terminal 86). I tapped off of C7 which supplies switched 12V to the cluster. You then connect the cluster side of B3 to the "at rest" terminal of the relay (87a) and the common (30) terminal to ground. I found a screw under the dash for ground that I also used to mount the relay tab. So now when there's no fault, the circuit "sees" ground and there's no light, and when there's a fault, the coil pulls off the ground and now there IS a light. Also gives you the 2 second light at startup. Reverse circuit!

Found this great diagram to help out with understanding the relay:



Unfortunately this DID NOT work for the brake light. Obviously something else is providing a ground. So, I saw two solutions; the more elegant would have been to go to the circuit board to try and cut the trace from the brake LED and jump it straight to the pin (so no path to ground other than e-brake/brake reservoir), or something else. I was afraid to pry off the gauge needles to get to the circuit board, so I did something else.

The something else was simply to interrupt (cut) B19, brake light wire, and route the vehicle side to the same relay for ground for the coil. This would allow the ABS light to signify EITHER ABS fault or e-brake/fluid level fault. I then taped over the brake light. What I'll do in the end is put a quick disconnect on the brake side so if it shows a fault, I can pull it off and isolate it as brake issue or ABS.

The other solution would be to add an indicator light circuit only for the brake, but I wanted to keep it as "OE" as possible. I figured ABS light, ABS and brakes relate to, well, brakes.
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Last edited by moby4dick; 04-14-2012 at 09:37 AM. Reason: Corrected error on 87a wire. Added relay drawing.
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:37 AM   #2
moby4dick
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Well in the end it really bothered me that I didn't have a working BRAKE warning light, so I ended up putting this http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102849 LED in the cluster where the factory light sits.

I'll see about getting pictures up, but basically each light has an enclosed "well" that the LED sits in, and shines up through the bezel. I peeled back the bezel and exposed the "well", covering the factory LED at the bottom with black tape. Then, I bent the new LED into the well, running the leads out of the well and cutting a groove through the upper wall that led to grooves that went around the fuel and temp gauges.

From there I exited the cluster, soldered 570 ohms of resistance onto the positive leads, stuck the resistors back into the cluster and put bullet disconnects on the ends. The vehicle side of B19 connected to the negative (grounding) side, and I again tapped C7 for power, and there I had a working brake warning light!

It was important to try and align the LED as perpendicular and centered as possible, as lighting is uneven if it's not straight. Again, I'll try and get pics up later this weekend.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:22 PM   #3
moby4dick
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LED inside of brake light well:



Wiring as seen on top of cluster:



Brake light on:



Brake light off:

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Old 04-01-2012, 06:29 PM   #4
jam007
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Nice...the brake light has been bugging me, thanks for the write up.
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:32 PM   #5
WiRX
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Nice solution!
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:09 PM   #6
moby4dick
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Thanks guys! Well if I feel a little less intimidated trying to pry off the indicator needles I'll see about messing with the circuit board. Maybe I'll start with the original cluster.

Anyway, the next thing I'm going to work on is the speedometer, IF it's necessary. I haven't been driving the Rex, not till I get the 6-speed in. Then I'll see if I need to wire in the Speedohealer --- it addresses the issue of the speedo being off by a few MPH. If no, then I guess I'll put it up for sale.
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Old 02-27-2014, 01:31 PM   #7
WrXwAgOnWrB
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I know this is an old thread. But I have 2005 9-2x swapping the cluster for the STi V7 Prodrive cluster 04 05 in Mph gauges.

I had the ABS light issue also. PULL THE 20a ABS FUSE and be done with it. Don't hack up your wiring don't pull the cluster apart. Nothing else was effected by pulling the fuse. I hate ABS anyway. If you have a closed loop causing the light to be on.- Pulling the fuse will reverse the flow turning the light OFF!

I posted this because there is a lot of over thinking going on relating to this topic.
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Old 05-30-2015, 07:19 PM   #8
imprezaRSer
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So I followed these directions to reverse the polarity for the ABS light . I've tried multiple different 4 pin and 5 pin relays. Quadruple checked and referenced the wiring diagrams . My ABS light is out but my one of my DCCD lights (65% light) is now acting as my ABS light. Instead of my ABS light. The DCCD 65% light comes on and then goes out once the car is started. So this is my question. Why Is this DCCD position light now my ABS light? And. Has anyone else had this issue? Thanks for any help
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Old 08-03-2015, 08:58 PM   #9
SER-EJ20
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Does pulling the ABS fuse disable the entire system or just the warning light?
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Old 09-15-2015, 05:17 PM   #10
weps
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It will disable the entire ABS system, i.e. the brakes will still function but WILL lock up under hard braking.

I have mine pulled to fix the aforementioned ABS light and because the bugeye ABS is too sensitive anyway. That said, I plug the fuse back in during ice and rain. I see another dash switch in my future...
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:14 PM   #11
bbjones121
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So, I am building an 818 and need to disable the airbag light. It is a "reverse circuit" as well. Does this mean I just need to supply 12v to the wire/pin that went to the airbag module to make the light go away or do I need to ground it?
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Old 01-26-2016, 09:48 PM   #12
Paidfor
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Damn man that's a lot of work to rid the dummy lights lol. Just remove the clear cover on the cluster to gain access to the front trim. I carefully slid a corner of a flat black business card under the trim and over the lights. Works great(no visible light)...can't tell at ALL....and took like 12 minutes lol. I don't have ABS on my car and I don't really need a e brake/fluid indicator. If it's engaged..it ain't moving anywhere and I'm too OCD on fluid checks to let the master get low. This was quite an easy fix for my application. Plus the cluster is easily returned to stock in less than 15 mins
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Old 04-07-2016, 07:44 PM   #13
RedMonkey999
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Posting this mostly for my own reference for later, but figured it might help others.

I'm planning to make a plug-and-play reverse circuit for the ABS light on my v8 UKDM Prodrive STi cluster, and I want to keep it as compact as possible. As the ABS signal wire is on i10 (pin B3), and I wanted to avoid having to tap into wires on other plugs, I went looking through the wiring diagrams for +12v and GND on i10. I came up with the following:

ABS Light - B3
+12v - B26
GND - B27
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Old 08-26-2016, 01:12 AM   #14
pattern
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedMonkey999 View Post
Posting this mostly for my own reference for later, but figured it might help others.

I'm planning to make a plug-and-play reverse circuit for the ABS light on my v8 UKDM Prodrive STi cluster, and I want to keep it as compact as possible. As the ABS signal wire is on i10 (pin B3), and I wanted to avoid having to tap into wires on other plugs, I went looking through the wiring diagrams for +12v and GND on i10. I came up with the following:

ABS Light - B3
+12v - B26
GND - B27
I'm really a super novice when it comes to wiring and just did my cluster swap yesterday from my UKDM v8 Prodrive STI cluster to an 07 JDM STI cluster. And I'm really hoping to learn more on this.

I've so far cut C9 to get rid of the constant buzzing and shaved two "guide lines" on the first plug to make it fit.

Current issues are:
- DCCD light on. > Doesn't bother me and not really an issue.
- R.Diff light is on. > I have yet to ground out the correct cable. Should be able to fix this.
- ABS light on. > Will fail yearly inspection unless it work's properly. I understand that the signal needs to be reversed but I'm really not good when it comes to reading diagrams so I'm not sure how to proceed on this one.
- Handbrake light on. > Will fail yearly inspection unless it work's properly. Yeah, no clue on this one so far.

So I would definitely be interested in anything you can share on this from your own swap. Glad you took time to post.

Edit:
Bought a small circut board complete with a 12v NC Relay, diode and terminals. Will update when I have hooked it up for the ABS.
I have also printed the circut diagrams for the handbrake both for my 03 RHD and an 07 RHD, they look like it should be plug-n-play but since it isn't I will have to study them further and get back to you.

Last edited by pattern; Yesterday at 02:55 AM.
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