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Old 03-01-2008, 07:06 PM   #1
Lachlan
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Member#: 19470
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: albuquerque, NM
Vehicle:
1981 Brat GL
Blue

Default About to put my short block back together...

any tips besides RTFM?
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Old 03-02-2008, 08:30 PM   #2
upjeeper
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Location: Madison, WI
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2002 WRX
Sedona Red

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got fujibond?
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Old 03-03-2008, 06:57 PM   #3
Lachlan
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anything special about putting rings on the pistons?

Other than not to line up the gaps?

Last edited by Lachlan; 03-03-2008 at 07:17 PM.
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:42 PM   #4
St.race
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yes rings are have to be placed in certain order. take in concideration that it's flat 4 engine vs inline or v-shape.
if you do not know how to do that don't you think you should let some one else do it? Or you just do it for fun of it.
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Old 03-05-2008, 07:14 PM   #5
Lachlan
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Blue

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Alright, when putting the rods onto the crankshaft, how tight should I tighten the nuts? The manual doesn't give any values. Also, how tight should the rods feel on the shaft? Should they move freely or should they stick a little?
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Old 03-05-2008, 08:47 PM   #6
reddevil
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1990 Legacy wagon
goes 12.387 @ 116.5

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Which manuel are you using? Mine has the numbers, but I am not near it. the rods should feel "sticky" because of the assembly lube you DID put on the bearings.
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Old 03-05-2008, 08:52 PM   #7
Lachlan
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Blue

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I'm using an electronic version for the 2002 WRX in PDF form. The tear-down/build up in the block section doesn't cover separating the rods from the crank. As far as assembly lube goes, the manual just mentions using engine oil--should I be using something different? The local machine shop recommended a 50-weight oil; I'm using a 15W50, about the heaviest I can find.

edit: doh--I found the page--it's in a different section.

Last edited by Lachlan; 03-05-2008 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 03-05-2008, 10:39 PM   #8
Lachlan
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Does the rear oil seal (goes on the crank from the bell housing end) go in with the groove facing in or out?
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Old 03-05-2008, 10:57 PM   #9
reddevil
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goes 12.387 @ 116.5

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groove in (so you cant see it)
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Old 03-05-2008, 10:59 PM   #10
Lachlan
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Blue

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Thanks!
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Old 03-06-2008, 12:21 PM   #11
Jpizzzle
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goodies >:)

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make sure you put those 3(?) O-rings in the middle of the block...made me mad when i found out i forgot them

Good luck
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Old 03-06-2008, 05:20 PM   #12
Lachlan
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1981 Brat GL
Blue

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yeah there are four, and I made sure they were in. How did you find out they were missing?
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Old 03-09-2008, 01:40 PM   #13
555ideways
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lachlan View Post
I'm using an electronic version for the 2002 WRX in PDF form. The tear-down/build up in the block section doesn't cover separating the rods from the crank. As far as assembly lube goes, the manual just mentions using engine oil--should I be using something different? The local machine shop recommended a 50-weight oil; I'm using a 15W50, about the heaviest I can find.

edit: doh--I found the page--it's in a different section.

This is what you need for assembly lube for bearing surfaces. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

It's a tackier than straight motor oil. It's rare that a motor gets built, installed , and fired up immediately. Assembly lube stays does the job better. Don't forget you have to prime the oil pump with a good few cranks and the bearings run dry quick.

Motor oil is good for lubricating the rod bolts, head bolts, and case bolts. The specs are in the manual along with the order they should be torqued. When using ARP fasteners use their special assembly lube on the bolts and torque to their specs (or your machine shop's specs).

I big jug of degreaser, a pack of 100 powder free latex gloves, a bottle of heavy weight oil,, lint free sterile rags, and a few plastic drop cloths to work on and cover the project to protect it from dust.
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