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Brakes & Suspension Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack |
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03-03-2008, 10:22 AM | #1 |
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just want to make sure (brake bleeding)
Most how to's and install threads I've read only refer to driver and passenger sides as "left" and "right". So does it go like this:
Passenger rear Driver front Driver rear Passenger front 04 sti btw although I think it's the same for all/most subarus Thanks in advance
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03-03-2008, 12:02 PM | #2 |
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i believe its
passenger front driver rear driver front passenger rear. |
03-03-2008, 12:33 PM | #3 |
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^^ That is correct according to the FSM.
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03-03-2008, 12:37 PM | #4 |
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03-03-2008, 12:56 PM | #5 |
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Added this to the Walkthrough thread:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1430598 |
03-03-2008, 01:08 PM | #6 |
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If you are just doing a basic bleed, it doesnt matter what order you bleed them in. Ive bled my car multiple times just going in the most convenient order with no issues. The FSM has specific requirements to make sure all techs use the same method for consistency, and for bleeding systems that have no fluid in them at all. If you want to follow the FSM for your own personal comfort, then by all means do it, but you wont screw anything up if you dont follow that method.
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03-03-2008, 01:54 PM | #7 |
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Agreed. For a simple 4/5 squirts a caliper it's not even an issue.
However.... I said the same many month ago and was promptly told I was wrong. I tend to prefer doing one END of a car completely, then the other. Much easier. |
03-03-2008, 03:28 PM | #8 |
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Thanks for the info guys, I'm actually installing SS brakelines and am due for a brake fluid flush anyway so I guess ill be following the correct order
Thanks again |
03-03-2008, 06:20 PM | #9 |
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start from the farthest wheel from the mc and work ur way to the closest. I do it:
passenger rear driver rear passenger front driver front And i did ss lines before i bled the system. It was actually a flush and bleed. came out great. |
03-03-2008, 08:38 PM | #10 |
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I'm gonna stick with the recommended way as opposed to the traditional way (furthest from mc) thanks tho
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03-05-2008, 08:00 PM | #11 |
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brake bleeding sequence
shnibop.. may want to rethink that hardline...I just installed my S/S lines today.. bled the whole system 3X using that exact sequence: RR, LR, RF, LF.. seemingly got all the air out of the system.. as fluid is running clear from all four corners, but I still have a low pedal.. can pump it once, and it seems I have four brakes again.. will try the 'proper' sequence tomorrow. and let you know the results...
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03-06-2008, 07:01 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
Oh, and make SURE you don't let the MC drain cmplelte of fluid when you change the lines. |
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03-06-2008, 08:35 PM | #13 |
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The most important thing you have to remember is to never, never let the reservior run dry. I recently upgraded to Stainless Steel lines and I did it the old fashioned way and it came out just fine. I've bleed brakes on many different cars and many different sequences and the end result was always the same. I don't understand why this topic seems to get alot of attention, if your brakes worked before your upgrade and now they don't then you probably did something wrong regardless of the order.
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03-06-2008, 10:55 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
I have done brake bleeding on many cars & trucks in the below order & never had any problems. I always start with the farthest away from the ABS unit, in other words the longest hard line first. |
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03-06-2008, 11:14 PM | #15 |
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I'm in awe to how complicated some of you make a very simple process...you guys are making way too much of a 20min job.
Pick a caliper, change the hose and bleed it. So long as the mc does not run dry it doesn't matter. |
03-07-2008, 12:49 AM | #16 |
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i just did a bleed and flush after swopping my ss lines in. However, i only used 1 bottle (500ml) of RBF 600. Am i doin this wrongly? i also didnt follow any exact sequence, stoptech mentioned that it was only a more systematic way of doing this procedure and does not affect performance. However, is 500ml too little? Any way i can rectify if there is a prob? i wan the brake to bite earlier...how can i do it
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03-07-2008, 01:29 AM | #17 | |
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But still some one give me a technical reason to do it like this PF -> DR -> DF -> PR |
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03-07-2008, 02:57 AM | #18 | |
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Quote:
BTW.. bleeding is a very simple process as said above. It is made even easier if you swap you bleed screws with speed bleed screws! Speed Bleed FTW! |
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03-07-2008, 09:00 AM | #19 |
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It's even easier than that....replace the lines (perhaps one end of the car at a time) and open the bleeder screws. Let the fluid run down the caliper into a pan. From time to time pour new fluid in the reservoir. You don't need high pressure (i.e. a gorilla friend pounding on the brake pedal!) for this to purge air. After the fluid flows clear, a couple light pumps and squirts into a rag if you wish and you're done.
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03-07-2008, 12:52 PM | #20 | |
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wow. are you serious? you'll never purge all the air doing that. if fluid isn't constantly coming out or in a steady state (ie by keeping the bleed hose in a jar of brake fluid, etc), air will re-enter the system. what you're describing will work with Speed Bleeder b/c they're one-way valves. |
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03-07-2008, 01:03 PM | #21 | |
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03-07-2008, 01:23 PM | #22 |
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I don't the exact reasons why, but I believe it has to do with the routing of the lines in the Subie. The opposite corners are on the same line. So the front right is on the same line as the left rear, and the left front is on the same line as the right rear. So when you follow the suggested order, you're bleeding air from the same lines in sequence. I used to use the farthest-from-the-mc method, but always seemed to have trouble getting all the air out. Since switching to the suggested order, I never have problems, and saves me the extra fluid. I'm sure there's a more technical reason Subaru suggests this ordr, but I'm not a Subaru engineer.
And it does matter if the MC goes dry if you don't want to waste a can of brake fluid. |
03-07-2008, 04:21 PM | #23 |
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how hard is it to power bleed brakes? i will be doing that as soon at my bleeder comes in
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03-07-2008, 05:48 PM | #24 |
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Oddly enough two brake industry experts here both advise against the use of any sort of power/suction systems. Gravity and simple old school wins hands down. I dare say that the vast majority of problems encountered with bleeding comes from the use of such equipment (mainly those who are new with it) and those who repeatedly bang the crap out of the pedal by pumping on it like stomping grapes.
Bleeding is only FLUID DISPLACEMENT, it has NOTHIING to do with pressure. Airation (sp?) and back suction-- "woops, I though you said CLOSED" are all to common. As for gravity; if I put beer keg on the top of the stairs, and ran a hose to your mouth, do you think you be able to exhale up the hose? Yes, assming the reservoir does not run dry nor your friendly "I'm helllping" buddy does not pump the pedal while open all things flow one way. *I cannot explain the sequence of the factory but I suspect it has to do with purging the ABS pump. All cars today are FOUR individual lines so there is no draw back of air from the LR to the RR for example on an old Volkswagon. (I'm dating myself here) So the reality is the entire systme- all the lines are all full of fluid all the time regardless of what one you open first. Or last. ** I need to add that if you work on open wheel race cars as I often do, this gravity thing doesn't work. My bad. The reservoir must be higher than the caliper!! Last edited by Todd TCE; 03-07-2008 at 05:58 PM. |
03-07-2008, 11:55 PM | #25 |
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Todd TCE... you sound very knowledgeable on the subject!
do you not recommend that i bleed the system on my own with a suction type pump? i know a lot of people have used the tool before with great success. as far as the gravity bleeding technique, that also requires 2 people at some point right? like when the fluid starts to run clear and you want to give it an additional pump on the pedal to clear any possible air in the line. i want to drain the system of the old brake fluid and replace with new (simultaneously sp? obviously), and switch to ss lines. thanks |
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