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Old 03-06-2008, 05:03 PM   #1
GlennC
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Default Only 8 PSI?

So I just did some data logging, and it shows I'm only building 8 PSI... I checked and cleaned out the solenoid on the passenger fender and replaced the line (just because it was rock solid and snapped)

Car is an 04 WRX... What could my issue be other then the turbo itself?

I'll also add the sensor in the up-pipe (aftermarket UP) is loose and wiggles, came like that with the car.
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Old 03-06-2008, 05:20 PM   #2
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is the pill in the vacume line directially off the turbo?
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Old 03-06-2008, 05:21 PM   #3
GlennC
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I don't quite understand what should I check? I remember reading about this before... Somewhere...
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Old 03-06-2008, 06:00 PM   #4
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It's the solenoid. That happened to me too before. just replace the solenoid.
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Old 03-06-2008, 06:01 PM   #5
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I cleaned it, but maybe I'll just pick up a replacement. Its cheaper then a turbo, thats for sure. I'll call subaru for a price quote and then check online too. Thanks for the tips, if theres any other things I can check Post em up too
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Old 03-06-2008, 06:25 PM   #6
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pinch the line from the turbo and see if you find a bump in the line, or pull it off and see if you can stick something through it like a coat hanger, if it stops then the pill is in it, if it goes through it then you have no pill in it.
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:19 PM   #7
GlennC
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So it's just a little pill inside a rubber line coming off the side of the turbo? What side?

Also, what does the pill do? Just gets pushed when the boost is high enough and activates the wastegate?
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:26 PM   #8
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The pill is a restrictor.. has a tiny hole through it. Helps build more boost before it lets the wastegate open... I think it's closer to the outlet nipple on the snout of the turbo (pressure outlet)... but I'm running of just my wastegate right now (vf39) so I don't remember for sure which side.... just see if you find it anywhere in that line and let us know-
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:27 PM   #9
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It's dark out now, I'll have to look tomorrow. I have very little idea where to look, I used to be N/A honda :P
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:49 PM   #10
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well it sounds to me that the egt sensor in the upipe is leaking because you said it is loose thus causing an exhaust leak before the turbo and not spooling it enough
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Old 03-06-2008, 11:31 PM   #11
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If you still have the stock hoses connecting the Turbo, Wastegate, and Solenoid together for boost management, on the hose that is coming off the turbo outlet, there should be a white mark. Squeeze where that white mark is and you should feel like a bead inside it. That is the brass restrictor which allows your car to boost to 14psi.
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Old 03-07-2008, 12:51 AM   #12
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check your pill or bcs
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Old 03-07-2008, 01:19 AM   #13
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So I went and did what you guys said, and what the dealer said. I found the pill, and I popped the line off real quick and went down the block. Had no problems reaching 12-15 PSi. Stopped, put line back on. It's something to do with my wastegate... but what...

what should I check? the pill is in there, tomorrow I will pop the lines off and blow them out... If not... Solenoid? 266 dollars
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Old 03-07-2008, 11:10 AM   #14
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why don't you borrow someone's solenoid to see if that's what you really need. That's how I found out with mine. I just borrowed someone's solenoid to test.
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Old 03-07-2008, 11:16 AM   #15
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Make sure the pill is in the right place; it should be in the vacuum hose between the nipple on the turbo compressor housing and the TEE. IE, not between the TEE and the solenoid, or the TEE and the wastegate actuator.

If it's the solenoid, an aftermarket replacement solenoid can be had for much cheaper than $266. Or you could buy a cheapo manual boost controller
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Old 03-07-2008, 04:18 PM   #16
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Test your boost control solenoid. Remove the solenoid and apply 12VDC to one terminal and ground to the other. You should be able to hear it 'click'. Try to blow air through it. Pulse it on/off several times and clean it out with non-chlorinated cleaner.

Check your boost lines for leaks. The intake vacuum bleeds off the pressurized air coming from the turbo compressor through the restrictor pill. As the vacuum overcomes the force of the air from the compressor (through the restrictor), and the force of the exhaust gases against the wastegate flapper--the flapper can then start to close. The BCS ultimately regulates how much air is bled out of the boost control lines to maintain your target boost pressure.

Trace the vacuum hoses from the intake to the BCS, BCS to the 'T' fitting, 'T' fitting to the diaphragm. Also check your wastegate diaphragm itself--it needs to be correctly sealed in order for the vacuum to actuate it.

Hopefully that gives you a couple more things to check out.
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Old 03-08-2008, 04:27 AM   #17
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So what I did is this:

Checked for pill - the pill was between the T and the wastegate, changed that to turbo side of the T. The line from the solenoid to the intake needed replacement, rock solid. The line between the solenoid and the T was cracked to hell and had a huge hole in it. The strange thing is that this line from the T to the solenoid had another pill in it...

So, I changed all the lines, pill between T and turbo.

Why would cracked lines and extra pill cause the wastegate to stay open?... Is it because the extra pill was causing too much resistance so the wastegate was getting constant pressure (and therefor opening at spring pressure?)

I dont know why... But this fixed it. If anyone can explain why so I can understand it, that would be amazig.
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Old 03-08-2008, 04:34 AM   #18
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Or another thought:

With the hole in the line and the restrictor in the line from T to BCS, it wouldnt be dumping as much pressure back into the intake because its A: not getting pulled by vaccume from the intake and B has to go through the restrictor. There would be more pressure in the line to the wastegate which would have held it open, instead of the pressure bleeding off and closing the wastegate?

Let me know if I'm on track here... Now I just need to find out why my boost is going up and down and up and down.
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Old 03-08-2008, 11:51 AM   #19
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Cracked lines and another restrictor pill would limit the amount of air that could be bled out of the boost lines. With that restrictor in there there wasn't enough air being bled out to close the wastegate diaphragm. With cracks you'd be sucking air in from the engine bay instead of creating a proper vacuum in the lines. You had a two-fold problem.

As for your boost oscillations, you may want to keep checking for other leaks. It is also possible the previous owner adjusted the wastegate actuator arm. If it was shortened too much the system will have problems properly regulating target boost. Reading how your boost control system was screwed up--it would not surprise me.
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Old 03-08-2008, 12:05 PM   #20
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A GM BCS can be had for $50 shipped and is far better than OEM. The tolerances will need to be tuned for, but it's simple. Your butt dyno will thank you as well.
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Old 03-08-2008, 01:12 PM   #21
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I did find that the sensor in my up-pipe is loose, and most likely leaking there (you can grab the wire and wiggle it). Could that cause some fluctuation in boost?
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Old 03-08-2008, 01:56 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennC View Post
I did find that the sensor in my up-pipe is loose, and most likely leaking there (you can grab the wire and wiggle it). Could that cause some fluctuation in boost?
Yes, it can have an effect.
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