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Old 03-11-2008, 06:47 PM   #1
Rallly2000
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Silverthorn

Unhappy Lateral Link Bolt

How do I get this out?? Its just turning the metal sleeve in the bushing??
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Old 03-11-2008, 07:55 PM   #2
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Ah, a fellow Ontario guy. I had the same problem when I replaced my rear bearings, I had to remove the whole lateral arm to remove the bolt. If it's the end by the head of the bolt, unbolt the other end of the lateral arm and pull it all out. Then put it all back in when you're done. If it's the threaded end that's stuck, you're SOL and some cutting may be required.
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Old 03-11-2008, 08:23 PM   #3
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Good luck. I was just doing my rear bearings and I ended up taking off the lateral links with the hub/knuckle and cutting the bolt off. I was changing bushings the reason I wanted the lateral links off.
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Old 03-11-2008, 08:47 PM   #4
FourOnTheFloor65
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I have removed several of those bolts on rusted cars at the junk yard. I soak it in PB blaster for like 20min. Then I take the nut off, remove the rear lateral link with a 2lb sledge, put the nut back on a few threads, and whack the shat out of it. Once it gets flush with the knuckle, take the nut off. Now I break out my special 3/8inch 10inch extension. It is special because it the end is so beat up from my hammer that it can't ever be used as an extension again. Use the extension and hammer to run the bolt the rest of the way out. Then when you go to put it back in sand it first and then use lots of anti seize on it.

Ryan
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Old 03-11-2008, 09:40 PM   #5
GHK
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^, yeah PB blast and hammer it out. that's the only way... good luck!
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Old 03-11-2008, 10:34 PM   #6
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cut it off and get a new one.
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Old 03-11-2008, 10:47 PM   #7
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the inner bolt or the long $22 each outer bolt? On the later I use a cutting torch and pb buster and a impact to beat it out. Ive never had too much of a prob with the inner that pb cant fix.
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Old 03-12-2008, 01:42 AM   #8
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Day 1: Remove nut, rejoice at how easy it was. Attempt to remove bolt, find out you can't. Hose knuckle down with PB Blaster and go to bed.

Day 2: Attempt to remove bolt, find out you can't. Use 6ft long lever to spin the head of bolt, realize you're spinning the lat-link bushing inside the lat link. Decide lat link bushing must be seized to bolt. Expose union of same to fire, impact, and corrosives chemicals. Hit with larger hammer. Cry.

Day 3: Remove head of bolt with cut-off wheel, expecting to be able to slide bolt forward and out of the knuckle. Find out bolt will not budge. Cry. Attempt to place ball joint press over knuckle to press out bolt, find out the press is too short. Cry. Cut lat link off of bushing. Attempt to place ball joint press over knuckle to press out bolt, find out the press is too small to fit around bushing. Cry. Attempt to cut bushing off bolt. Find out that bushing has both inner and outer layers of rubber and steel. Nearly choke to death on burning rubber smoke. Use vise grips to peel outer rubber and steel layer off of bushing. Remove all skin on fingers in the process. Swear. Attempt to place ball joint press over knuckle to press out bolt, find out that while the press now fits over the decimated bushing, the press is too short. Swear. Cut bolt shorter. Attempt to press bolt out of knuckle. Determine that bolt was not cut square enough and press walks off bolt explosively. Devise centering press w/ small socket and nut scavenged from endlink via McGuyver like ghetto engineering skills. Press bolt a few mm forward via huge amounts of force on a 2ft lever attached to the press. Attempt to devise new tool w/ different socket, nut, duct tape, small furry animals. Accidentally bump bolt with back of hand, knock it out of knuckle. Swear and cry in relief and confusion. Go to bed.

Day 4: Reassemble suspension. Take for test drive. Nearly die as newly active rear end comes around.



And that, folks, is the story of my christmas present. My Fiancee got me the full STi Group N lateral link and trailing link bushing kits as well as Aluminum front lateral links to replace the taco links the RS wagons come with. I think it might be the most two-edged gift I've ever gotten. Pretty cool change to the car though, don't yet know if it was worth the terror. A job that should have taken 2-4 hours took over 30 man hours between the two of us once you consider all the time for the pressing out and in of the bushings and the terror of the bolt.
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHK View Post
^, yeah PB blast and hammer it out. that's the only way... good luck!
I used a torch (map gas), PB blaster and other chemicals, and some more of a torch nothing, a Hammer. After hammering on the nut threaded onto the end of the bolt and deforming it enough so it would come off I finally cut the bolts off. Its amazing how stuck it can get.
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post


Day 1: Remove nut, rejoice at how easy it was. Attempt to remove bolt, find out you can't. Hose knuckle down with PB Blaster and go to bed.

Day 2: Attempt to remove bolt, find out you can't. Use 6ft long lever to spin the head of bolt, realize you're spinning the lat-link bushing inside the lat link. Decide lat link bushing must be seized to bolt. Expose union of same to fire, impact, and corrosives chemicals. Hit with larger hammer. Cry.

Day 3: Remove head of bolt with cut-off wheel, expecting to be able to slide bolt forward and out of the knuckle. Find out bolt will not budge. Cry. Attempt to place ball joint press over knuckle to press out bolt, find out the press is too short. Cry. Cut lat link off of bushing. Attempt to place ball joint press over knuckle to press out bolt, find out the press is too small to fit around bushing. Cry. Attempt to cut bushing off bolt. Find out that bushing has both inner and outer layers of rubber and steel. Nearly choke to death on burning rubber smoke. Use vise grips to peel outer rubber and steel layer off of bushing. Remove all skin on fingers in the process. Swear. Attempt to place ball joint press over knuckle to press out bolt, find out that while the press now fits over the decimated bushing, the press is too short. Swear. Cut bolt shorter. Attempt to press bolt out of knuckle. Determine that bolt was not cut square enough and press walks off bolt explosively. Devise centering press w/ small socket and nut scavenged from endlink via McGuyver like ghetto engineering skills. Press bolt a few mm forward via huge amounts of force on a 2ft lever attached to the press. Attempt to devise new tool w/ different socket, nut, duct tape, small furry animals. Accidentally bump bolt with back of hand, knock it out of knuckle. Swear and cry in relief and confusion. Go to bed.

Day 4: Reassemble suspension. Take for test drive. Nearly die as newly active rear end comes around.



And that, folks, is the story of my christmas present. My Fiancee got me the full STi Group N lateral link and trailing link bushing kits as well as Aluminum front lateral links to replace the taco links the RS wagons come with. I think it might be the most two-edged gift I've ever gotten. Pretty cool change to the car though, don't yet know if it was worth the terror. A job that should have taken 2-4 hours took over 30 man hours between the two of us once you consider all the time for the pressing out and in of the bushings and the terror of the bolt.
I had a very similar experience with my driver side front control arm front bolt. When I was putting my forged STi aluminum ones in. I ended up cutting the control arm off with a cutoff wheel and then cut the bolt, and what was left of the bushing, out with an angle grinder. It took me like 5 hours.

As well as my Subarus I have a 65 Mustang. If you think working on a 4 or 5year old car is fun try one that is over 40. I have went through gallons of PB Blaster. My driveway is like a toxic waste dump in New Jersey.

Ryan
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Old 10-10-2010, 11:34 PM   #11
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People, this lateral link removal stuff is a total nightmare!
There is a 50/50 shot you will need to destroy the bushings to remove the bolt. So, I recommend you buy an extra one in case.

If its just turning the metal sleeve, take a sharp razor blade and trim the bushing that sticks out on the bolt head side to expose as much of the metal bushing sleeve as possible. Then get one of this



and this .

Heat up the exposed metal sleeve until its cherry red. Then bang on the bolt head a few time. Then spray PB blaster into the sleeve. Do the same with the thread side. Remember to put the nut on first just enough to hit it so you dont mess up the thread. Repeat this process until you can wiggle the thread side lateral link out.

The first time I did it on my car, its was no piece of cake. But had no problem with 2 of my cousins Subies.

When you put the new one in, just remember to fill the bushing sleeve with alot of anti seize in case you need to remove it in the future. For mine, I filled the bushing sleeve with a mixture of anti seize and lithium grease. I sure as hell dont want to go through that crap again!
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:05 AM   #12
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I still hate that motherfracking bolt.

Taco link:
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:23 AM   #13
motohippy
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One other thought: Jack up the knuckle so the link is about parallel to the ground. It seems like this unloads the link bolt, and in my case, it came right out once I lifted it. Of course, I'd already spent a good two evenings beating/burning/pressing/twisting/PB Blastering the ever loving s--- out of it, so maybe it was just going to come loose on it's own. Not looking forward to when the bearing on the other side gives up.
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Old 08-03-2012, 09:34 AM   #14
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Does anyone know the total length of this bolt?

My 168k mile rear end needs some lovin' (that sounds dirty) but I have scared by this bolt and have been putting the service off.

Has anyone tried to use a large c-clamp to help force the bolt out? Is there even enough room to fit a clamp in there?
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:10 AM   #15
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My STI rear knuckles came with control arms on them, which I needed to remove to install. They weren't really that rusy, but HOLY HELL they took a ton of force. A friend and I did it using a breaker bar with a cheater bar on it, an him holding another breaker bar to counter. Not fun.

Then when I pulled my stock WRX ones off after salt and 150k of use, I was certain they would be the same thing. PB blaster and just one good push with a breaker bar did it.


PolarisSnT - I can get you the measurement sometime later today if nobody else responds first.
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:12 AM   #16
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Glad I don't live some where they salt the roads lol. never had problems with this bolt.

Just pb blast and let it soak for a few days lol. G'luck
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:27 AM   #17
red5001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisSnT View Post
Does anyone know the total length of this bolt?

My 168k mile rear end needs some lovin' (that sounds dirty) but I have scared by this bolt and have been putting the service off.

Has anyone tried to use a large c-clamp to help force the bolt out? Is there even enough room to fit a clamp in there?
I don't have the exact mearument but it was about 11.5 inches if I recall. But I am guessing you are going to have to cut it. But good luck its a pain if the car has seen winter. My only had 2 or 3 winters on it and maybe 70K miles and it would come out.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:12 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolster View Post
My STI rear knuckles came with control arms on them, which I needed to remove to install. They weren't really that rusy, but HOLY HELL they took a ton of force. A friend and I did it using a breaker bar with a cheater bar on it, an him holding another breaker bar to counter. Not fun.

Then when I pulled my stock WRX ones off after salt and 150k of use, I was certain they would be the same thing. PB blaster and just one good push with a breaker bar did it.


PolarisSnT - I can get you the measurement sometime later today if nobody else responds first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by red5001 View Post
I don't have the exact mearument but it was about 11.5 inches if I recall. But I am guessing you are going to have to cut it. But good luck its a pain if the car has seen winter. My only had 2 or 3 winters on it and maybe 70K miles and it would come out.
Red: Thanks for the info

Bolster: Can you confirm the 11.5 inches?

This car has seen plenty of winter so I'm staying positive but have this feeling it will be a battle.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:52 AM   #19
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That length seems about right. Honestly just soak it down with a penetrant fluid (50acetone/50ATF works great) and give it a try. Some of us get lucky. If it's locked up in the bushings then just go right to cutting the bolt out. Then get two new $22 bolts and anti-seize the crap out of them going back in. Make sure to coat the area the bolt passes through the bushings in anti-seize, since that is the problem area.
I doubt fooling with the C-clamp will yield any results. But it's up to you.
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Old 08-03-2012, 04:00 PM   #20
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That 50/50 acetone/atf mix inspires hope.
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:58 PM   #21
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Well....

Passenger side came out easy as this bolt was replaced ~6 years ago and anti seize was applied liberally, no problems at all.

Driver side, however, lives up to its reputation. I applied the 50/50 mix last night and let it sit for 12 hours. The front lateral link is free and can be easily moved. The rear link, much to my dismay, is fused to the bushing. After a few hours of trying it would not budge, so my plan is to order a new bolt and cut it like everyone else. I plan on replacing the bushings so I don't care if I destroy them.
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:03 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty

Day 1: Remove nut, rejoice at how easy it was. Attempt to remove bolt, find out you can't. Hose knuckle down with PB Blaster and go to bed.

Day 2: Attempt to remove bolt, find out you can't. Use 6ft long lever to spin the head of bolt, realize you're spinning the lat-link bushing inside the lat link. Decide lat link bushing must be seized to bolt. Expose union of same to fire, impact, and corrosives chemicals. Hit with larger hammer. Cry.

Day 3: Remove head of bolt with cut-off wheel, expecting to be able to slide bolt forward and out of the knuckle. Find out bolt will not budge. Cry. Attempt to place ball joint press over knuckle to press out bolt, find out the press is too short. Cry. Cut lat link off of bushing. Attempt to place ball joint press over knuckle to press out bolt, find out the press is too small to fit around bushing. Cry. Attempt to cut bushing off bolt. Find out that bushing has both inner and outer layers of rubber and steel. Nearly choke to death on burning rubber smoke. Use vise grips to peel outer rubber and steel layer off of bushing. Remove all skin on fingers in the process. Swear. Attempt to place ball joint press over knuckle to press out bolt, find out that while the press now fits over the decimated bushing, the press is too short. Swear. Cut bolt shorter. Attempt to press bolt out of knuckle. Determine that bolt was not cut square enough and press walks off bolt explosively. Devise centering press w/ small socket and nut scavenged from endlink via McGuyver like ghetto engineering skills. Press bolt a few mm forward via huge amounts of force on a 2ft lever attached to the press. Attempt to devise new tool w/ different socket, nut, duct tape, small furry animals. Accidentally bump bolt with back of hand, knock it out of knuckle. Swear and cry in relief and confusion. Go to bed.

Day 4: Reassemble suspension. Take for test drive. Nearly die as newly active rear end comes around.

And that, folks, is the story of my christmas present. My Fiancee got me the full STi Group N lateral link and trailing link bushing kits as well as Aluminum front lateral links to replace the taco links the RS wagons come with. I think it might be the most two-edged gift I've ever gotten. Pretty cool change to the car though, don't yet know if it was worth the terror. A job that should have taken 2-4 hours took over 30 man hours between the two of us once you consider all the time for the pressing out and in of the bushings and the terror of the bolt.
I think we are related. You just can't make this stuff up. I feel like I now belong to a very small group of people on Earth. I am only on day 2.
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:06 PM   #23
Blktrax
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Just a suggestion, I use a chain and two clasp links to hold the lat links from moving away from each other. Cut the head off the bolt.

Then airhammer

the crap out of it with a point bit smaller than the diamater of the bolt. *also good stress relief*

The only one I havent been able to remove, the bolts in the subframe by the diff were also rusted. That one got all new evvrrriiithing.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:06 PM   #24
jlukowski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motohippy
One other thought: Jack up the knuckle so the link is about parallel to the ground. It seems like this unloads the link bolt, and in my case, it came right out once I lifted it. Of course, I'd already spent a good two evenings beating/burning/pressing/twisting/PB Blastering the ever loving s--- out of it, so maybe it was just going to come loose on it's own. Not looking forward to when the bearing on the other side gives up.
Great tip. This worked for me.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:11 PM   #25
jlukowski
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Cutting the link bolts (inboard) and the rear trailing arm bolt (at the knuckle) was successful with a 12 Amp Milwaukee Sawzall and 10TPI blade.
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