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Old 09-21-2012, 05:47 PM   #26
ManualOverAuto
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Well because of this bolt I decided not to try my rear bearings. Had a shop replace them last week and everything is fine.....except that lateral link bolt. I was under yesterday and noticed that bolt didn't look snug. I can take a wrench and spin the bolt either way slightly, like a 1/4 turn. The bushing is definitely spinning with it.

Should I be concerned that this bolt isn't tight? Trying to tighten it more results in that 1/4 turn with the bushing, and when I let off the wrench, the bolt "springs" back.
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:52 PM   #27
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tighten the nut, not the bolt.
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:58 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts
tighten the nut, not the bolt.
Oh wow........

Thanks! Definitely saved me some frustration.
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Old 09-22-2012, 01:35 AM   #29
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+1 for the air hammer. works wonders!
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Old 09-22-2012, 01:42 AM   #30
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I stacked coupons at Advanced Auto to get an Ingersol Rand air hammer for $17. Turns out, it's a weenie model but it did serve to prove to me that I wanted an air hammer that actually had some balls.
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Old 09-22-2012, 04:28 AM   #31
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the earthquake one from HF actually isnt bad
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:56 PM   #32
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Can someone PM me the part number for the outer lateral link bushings? I will be ordering them for a 1997 impreza L five speed 2.2 awd tomorrow and my deal is usually difficult. thanks.-Jordan.
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:41 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post


Day 1: Remove nut, rejoice at how easy it was. Attempt to remove bolt, find out you can't. Hose knuckle down with PB Blaster and go to bed.

Day 2: Attempt to remove bolt, find out you can't. Use 6ft long lever to spin the head of bolt, realize you're spinning the lat-link bushing inside the lat link. Decide lat link bushing must be seized to bolt. Expose union of same to fire, impact, and corrosives chemicals. Hit with larger hammer. Cry.

Day 3: Remove head of bolt with cut-off wheel, expecting to be able to slide bolt forward and out of the knuckle. Find out bolt will not budge. Cry. Attempt to place ball joint press over knuckle to press out bolt, find out the press is too short. Cry. Cut lat link off of bushing. Attempt to place ball joint press over knuckle to press out bolt, find out the press is too small to fit around bushing. Cry. Attempt to cut bushing off bolt. Find out that bushing has both inner and outer layers of rubber and steel. Nearly choke to death on burning rubber smoke. Use vise grips to peel outer rubber and steel layer off of bushing. Remove all skin on fingers in the process. Swear. Attempt to place ball joint press over knuckle to press out bolt, find out that while the press now fits over the decimated bushing, the press is too short. Swear. Cut bolt shorter. Attempt to press bolt out of knuckle. Determine that bolt was not cut square enough and press walks off bolt explosively. Devise centering press w/ small socket and nut scavenged from endlink via McGuyver like ghetto engineering skills. Press bolt a few mm forward via huge amounts of force on a 2ft lever attached to the press. Attempt to devise new tool w/ different socket, nut, duct tape, small furry animals. Accidentally bump bolt with back of hand, knock it out of knuckle. Swear and cry in relief and confusion. Go to bed.

Day 4: Reassemble suspension. Take for test drive. Nearly die as newly active rear end comes around.
OH my that was hilarious. Well done, sir.
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:14 PM   #34
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That is known as the Bastard Bolt for a reason
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:52 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlvrRex02 View Post
Can someone PM me the part number for the outer lateral link bushings? I will be ordering them for a 1997 impreza L five speed 2.2 awd tomorrow and my deal is usually difficult. thanks.-Jordan.
Just call http://rallispec.com/prod_mount.htm
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:28 PM   #36
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Needed to get an alignment today and found out these two rear were seized.... now I get to experience all this fun just so my rear toe isn't way out of whack.

I don't mind cutting the bolt to bits, but I'd rather avoid destroying the lateral link and would greatly prefer to not have to remove the hub as that will surely be another nightmare getting that long bolt out that spans across and is surely seized as well.

How would one go about cutting the bolt out without destroying the link? Can you get enough of the head/bolt off that you can lower the lateral link out from the crossmember and get better access to work?

can't wait.

Last edited by IceWilly; 05-11-2013 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:19 PM   #37
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Where should I be applying heat to get this stuff to budge?

Also, if i do spin the head of the 22mm bolt and it spins the bushing inside.... is that really that bad if I am just trying to get this thing aligned and not necessarily replace the bushing? I realize that isn't not going to help me later on when I do need to replace the bushing, but if it's that or start cutting the crap out of everything then maybe I will leave it there.
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:26 PM   #38
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If the bolt is seized to the bushing, I don't see how you'll be able to get the required precision necessary to align the car. That being said, if you can pull it off, if it works, it works, you know?
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:29 PM   #39
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By spinning the bolt and bushing together, wouldn't that move the center line of the bolt the same amount? Just because the bushing doesn't spin like it should around the bolt, doesn't mean the final position of the bushing would be different.

Yes I agree that its backwards and i would be using the outside of the bushing as the rotation point instead of the bolt/bushing sleeve location... but I'm staring down the barrell of that or a massive cutting/torching job to free those parts.

This is a very poor time for me to have this problem, so I am just trying to get any solution to delay the pain.
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:36 PM   #40
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Yeah, it'll do the same thing, but I guarantee you you're going to have a lot harder time putting it precisely in the correct spot to control the position of the edge of the tire to within 0.5mm, which you DO have to do in order to properly align the car.
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:50 PM   #41
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I'm just hoping that I don't have to destroy the lateral link like you seemed to have to.

This is my DD sadly. I can still get to and from work without it, but it will have me waking up super early to drive the opposite way to bring my fiance to/from work. I'm tempted to bring it to the dealer and have them fight with it, but they don't stock the possible replacement parts (bolt/cam nut/bushing) so even if they fight it out and destroy the bushing the car might be sitting there waiting for 2 bushings for a day or 2. Not super excited about that. Not to mention the probable $100 shop labor rate.

Also, getting the link off the hub is going to be equally as hard in my case due to that super long bolt that is probably in just as bad condition. I wish I could have all the links/trailing arms off so I could clean everything up and reset, but I don't even want to know how many hours it would take to break all of those pieces loose.

Wish I had a better way to put some heat on those bolts, maybe that would help my cause. Having the car as a DD really limits my options.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:26 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IceWilly View Post
I'm just hoping that I don't have to destroy the lateral link like you seemed to have to.

This is my DD sadly. I can still get to and from work without it, but it will have me waking up super early to drive the opposite way to bring my fiance to/from work. I'm tempted to bring it to the dealer and have them fight with it, but they don't stock the possible replacement parts (bolt/cam nut/bushing) so even if they fight it out and destroy the bushing the car might be sitting there waiting for 2 bushings for a day or 2. Not super excited about that. Not to mention the probable $100 shop labor rate.

Also, getting the link off the hub is going to be equally as hard in my case due to that super long bolt that is probably in just as bad condition. I wish I could have all the links/trailing arms off so I could clean everything up and reset, but I don't even want to know how many hours it would take to break all of those pieces loose.

Wish I had a better way to put some heat on those bolts, maybe that would help my cause. Having the car as a DD really limits my options.

call the dealer and ask them all this
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Old 05-18-2013, 03:22 PM   #43
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I did just that actually. They checked it out, and quoted $1200 to fix everything up. In that cost they assumed they would have to use heat and thus destroy the rear lateral link. That's obviously a huge amount of money for this issue, and I can't consider doing that.

I think my best option is to buy a take off set of links with oem bushings and new bolts/hardware. Cut everything off myself with no regard for the lateral links well being, and replace with fresh stuff. With some buddies at work hopefully I can get the links off cleanly without damaging the subframe at all as long as I don't care about preserving anything.

Argh, we'll see. At least lateral links are a common upgrade and OEM ones are easy to come by.
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Old 05-18-2013, 03:24 PM   #44
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Buy a set of MSI lateral links from TiC. Buy a set of Group N bushings. Put bushings into links. Cut the motherfracking hell out of existing links to get them off. Bolt new links on. Taste, and enjoy!
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:34 AM   #45
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I'm on day two of this bolt.

TIC lateral link bushings are the last part of my suspension work. (For now.)

I've sprayed 1/2 a can of PB blaster on each side. The nut comes off easy with an impact gun. I can get the bolt to spin with a 3ft 1/2 drive breaker bar. The forward lateral links will slide off the bolt.

The bolt will not spin when impact gun is applied. It looks like the rear lateral link bushings might be fused. No salt on the roads here in California, I've gotten the bolt to back out about 1cm.

I haven't tried a BFH yet because I want to try to keep the hardware if possible.

How well did the torch method work for you guys? Any other suggestions that will not destroy the hardware?

I will try jacking the knuckle up tomorrow.
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:46 AM   #46
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You will destroy the hardware. You should have expected to do so and have bought spares before you started.


I did, however, find something even worse to work on than this bolt: a house.
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:56 AM   #47
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For now I just put it back together. I'll get a new bolt this week, but I am pretty set on getting this bolt out without destroying it.

Never let the car win.
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Old 09-01-2013, 02:20 AM   #48
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At this point, being pigheaded and "not letting the bolt win" is just stupid.

Be efficient. Section the bolt, knock out the bushing, pop a new one in, and get on with your life. Screwing with it for 6 hours to "win" doesn't prove anything other than you don't mind wasting your time.
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Old 09-01-2013, 02:20 AM   #49
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You'll lose. In my case I also had to destroy a lateral link to free the stupid thing. I broke a tooth off my socket lowering the car's weight onto the wrench trying to break it loose. I was able to get the nuts off and the bolt spinning but it was seized to the bushing. There's simply no way to get access to it, and force no longer does anything since its free spinning.

I took it as an opp to use all new hardware and anti seize that bish. I plan to drive the car into the ground so I was happy to save myself trouble later.

My PB breaker didn't work nearly as well as the stuff the fab shop guys had at my work. It was penetrating fluid, but it seemed to work better. I can't remember the name but I'll return with it at some point. And FWIW, i soaked those bolts in PB breaker every day for a week before I tried with impact tools and huge breaker bars to loose things up.

Also, heating up the bolt had no effect breaking it loose from the bushing for me. And I heated it up HOT. I ended up torching a lot of it off because that bushing is hardened and was hard for even the angle grinders at work to handle.
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Old 09-01-2013, 02:33 AM   #50
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The better penetrating lube was almost certainly Kroil Oil. It makes PB Blaster seem like trying to get a bolt loose by spraying pancake syrup at it. Kroil is friggen amazing but it smells TERRIBLE. In spite of that, it's the only thing I use now.
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