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Old 03-12-2008, 08:49 PM   #1
nicknaz
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Default oil analysis comparison between GC 0W30 and Rotella T 15W40

link to my bitog thread

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1104790

left most sample is GC (Castrol Syntec 0w30 european formula full synthetic) and right two samples are Rotella T (15w40 conventional heavy duty engine oil)

seems to me like there isn't any engine protection differences

what do you guys think?

thanks,
Nick
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:02 PM   #2
Ahersh
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Looks great. Since you have been running the Rotella for so long and keep the interval less than 5000 miles, I don't think that you are benefiting from the synthetic.

I'm impressed with the response of Rotella to a track day. How long were the sessions?

I also noticed that you have added between 1 and 1.5 qrts, was this to burn-off?

I forgot to completely top off on my last change and had to add a quart about 1/2 way through the interval.

-Adam
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:55 PM   #3
bulwnkl
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Nice comparison, nicknaz. Thanks!
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Old 03-12-2008, 10:13 PM   #4
nicknaz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahersh View Post
Looks great. Since you have been running the Rotella for so long and keep the interval less than 5000 miles, I don't think that you are benefiting from the synthetic.

I'm impressed with the response of Rotella to a track day. How long were the sessions?

I also noticed that you have added between 1 and 1.5 qrts, was this to burn-off?

I forgot to completely top off on my last change and had to add a quart about 1/2 way through the interval.

-Adam
sessions were around 30min each, 5 session total at thunderhill. i'm actually not too surprised that Rotella T gets the job done at the track. i would imagine that a big turbo diesel engine that's used for towing generates much harsher engine conditions than what my stock WRX experiences.

ya i think the make up oil was because of burn off. i barely notice blue smoke going of the tail pipe and there aren't any oil leaks so i'm not 100% sure what is going on. i've noticed some white smoke coming out of the tail pipe when the car is idle right after i start it up when cold. i think this could be a symptom of turbo seal(s) going bad. i don't have any tech to back it up but i suspect this could be the source of the oil consumption. (and i haven't changed the PCV valve in a while)
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Old 03-12-2008, 10:31 PM   #5
Ahersh
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I have read good things about Rotella, but I've never used it.

You mentioned that you are mixing 91 octane and 100 octane, do you have a consistent source for the 100?

In Texas you can get 93 just about everywhere and I use it whenever I can. In Arkansas and Oklahoma it's spotty, I often can't find anything higher than 91.
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Old 03-13-2008, 12:42 AM   #6
djerickd
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I recall something about rotella and bad on cat converters? was it still bad juju or was that disproven?
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:50 AM   #7
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Wear looks consistent with both. To borrow a quote from a bitog poster, you don't need to stinkin' starburst symbol. One thing a uoa doesn't detect is sludge. That's a benefit of synthetic; better deposit control and less of a chance of sludge.

djerickd - There's a higher chance of ruining cats due to the higher levels of AW additives in SL/GF3 and/or heavy duty diesel oils. How much of a chance? Who knows? There was a recent article posted on bitog that said the greater risk of cat damage is during the first couple of thousand miles (bad if you change the oil too much). I'll see if I can find it.
The latest diesel spec is supposed to be cleaner burning. CJ-4 I think.

Some people would rather have better bearing protection.

-Dennis
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Old 03-13-2008, 10:00 AM   #8
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thanks Dennis
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Old 03-13-2008, 10:08 AM   #9
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One discussion here. Not the one I was looking for though.
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Old 03-13-2008, 11:59 AM   #10
nicknaz
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yes, there is a 76 gas station in redwood city CA that i sells 100 octane at the pump, so i stop in once a week. i also have a small 2 gallon container that i fill with 100 octane, in case i have to drive more than 320mi in a week

i used rotella T for around 15k miles and i passed smog easily, so i personally don't think damage to the cats is a big issue.
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Old 03-13-2008, 02:25 PM   #11
bulwnkl
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Quote:
One thing a uoa doesn't detect is sludge. That's a benefit of synthetic; better deposit control and less of a chance of sludge.
Actually, a good UOA does point to deposit formation, but you have to know what you're looking for and what you're looking at. And, I agree that a good 'synth' can resist some types of deposit formation better than a poor 'conventional,' but there's enough more to it that, IMO, a person is unwise to lean on that hope.

Perhaps this comparison gives good evidence that this person's vehicle and usage doesn't need him to waste his money on the 'synthetic' instead of good old CJ-4 Rotella?
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Old 03-13-2008, 02:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulwnkl View Post
... but you have to know what you're looking for and what you're looking at...
There you go with that comment again. Are you trying to tell us that we're wasting our time with Blackstone, and it's Terry FTW ?!

-Dennis
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:21 PM   #13
bulwnkl
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Not exactly (oh wait, that's a Hertz ad... ), but it is certainly true that even things I can see with much, much less experience or information than Dyson appear to go unnoticed by most labs. My comment was actually intended to suggest that all of us as UOA customers would benefit from trying to understand the significance (or insignificance) of the numbers in a UOA.

I have a tendency to be all-or-none sometimes, and UOA services is one of the cases where I can't see any utility at all in the middle ground. I can see utility in the $12 UOAs because they're cheap and I can read them OK, and I can see utility in the $60 ones because I've proven through my own vehicles and the work fleet that the information is solid and useful. I just can't see any utility at all in the $30 UOAs that give me lots more words than the $12 ones, but no more information (unless it's bad).

BTW, bluesubie, I sent my UOA in today (RLI 5W30). It's not a long-mileage one yet, but as promised I didn't drain the oil. First one on the Baja; we'll see what it looks like.
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Old 03-13-2008, 05:58 PM   #14
nicknaz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulwnkl View Post
I just can't see any utility at all in the $30 UOAs that give me lots more words than the $12 ones, but no more information (unless it's bad).
hmmm. it seems like my blackstone labs UOAs might fall under the category of those '$30 UOAs' you describe above. Which vendors gives you $12 UOAs, and are the collection kits free?
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Old 03-13-2008, 08:05 PM   #15
bulwnkl
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Find a Chevron distributor. The Chevron Lubewatch program is one I have experience with. Distributors set the price, and I've encountered them anywhere from free to $20, including the bottle & shipping bottle. Some give you a better price if you're a customer (the free ones were when I was an ag fuel and oil customer; probably not going to get that as a consumer).

There are similar programs from most all of the major-name oil brands. Many or most all use the same actual labs across the country, but they brand them with their own name (i.e. Chevron, Shell, Mobil, etc.).
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