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Old 03-13-2008, 10:41 PM   #1
dougkmcse
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Default Spark plugs & 60k change

I had my plugs changed. The stock platnium's should have been changed awhile ago. There was a lot of wear on the plugs. I put NGK Iridiums in what a difference. To people who a 04 WRX i would not wait till 60k to change the plugs. The car has a lot more mid range power. Runs smoother too.
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Old 03-13-2008, 10:45 PM   #2
SC2000
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I still need to change the plugs on my car...no issues, but i just hit 30k miles.
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Old 03-14-2008, 04:05 PM   #3
Asinine
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<--- changing my plug tomorrow as part of my 60k service. Replacing stock with stock (iridium)
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Old 03-14-2008, 04:37 PM   #4
Chino Bling
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60k? i change my plugs every 15k...but i'm using copper plugs.
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Old 03-14-2008, 08:04 PM   #5
bettyblue
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anyone have a diy's or how to's on the plugs?
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Old 03-17-2008, 09:00 AM   #6
Asinine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chino Bling View Post
60k? i change my plugs every 15k...but i'm using copper plugs.
The stock iridiums are good for 60k--and I plan to go put iridiums back in.

I sat "plan to" because I didn't actually change them out this weekend as intended. I swapped out my fuel filter, gear oil, and some bulbs, but I didn't think I had time for the plugs. Honestly, it looks like an incredibly daunting task. I'm a bright guy and fairly mechanically inclined, but I have very little automotive expertise. I've read three different how-to's for changing out the plugs, and none of them quite helped me "get it." Maybe I need more descriptive pictures.
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Old 03-17-2008, 09:57 AM   #7
maxpower45
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I changed my plugs out at around 60k but mine called for NGK platinum plugs. Changing them out wasn't too terrible but it does require some patience and a little anger management. The rear plug on the driver's side was a real PITA.

I would recommend a swivel head ratchet and several socket adapters of varying lengths. Also, a short 4-6" piece of rubber gas line or plastic tubing to help thread the new plugs in. Space is very limited and you don't want to take the chance of cross threading them.
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Old 03-17-2008, 12:08 PM   #8
strohausii
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Lol, once you remove everything, it's pretty intuitive.
I remove the windshield washer bottle, battery, strange plastic lid with no bottom, intake box and front air collector. Removing the battery gives me a better view of what I'm doing.

The tubing to get the spark plugs started is an excellent idea.

I forget which coil pack(s) it was, but you can remove the coil pack boot by rotating the coil pack upside down to get the boot out of the valve cover well.
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Old 04-05-2008, 10:34 AM   #9
04wagon@stg2
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dougkmcse, (or anyone using ngk iridiums,stock)

any mods?? im doin mine today, ngk iridiums (stock)-- im custom tuned, stage 2-- tbe,k&n filter (a little more goodies)-- just want to see if anyone is having any issues. thanks in advance.

Sal

Last edited by 04wagon@stg2; 04-05-2008 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 04-06-2008, 08:39 AM   #10
04wagon@stg2
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Default spark plug update

just thought id update.plugs are in.. took about an hour. did the tranny oil while i was underneathe. i put the NGK iridiums (stock) in... all but one came pregapped at .028... the stock ones didnt look in bad shape.. stock ngk platinums (not bad for stock) ... car runs alot smoother..ngk's ftw
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Old 04-07-2008, 01:53 AM   #11
p01ntb1ank
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did u go one step colder?
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Old 04-07-2008, 10:25 PM   #12
KW_Scoob
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Just did my plugs and put in the stock temp Iridiums as well. I can back the statement abut midrange power- it does pull harder!
However, I don't know how old the other plugs were and they were one step hotter (good lord why?!) so I would hope brand new $$ plugs would help the engine a bit.

As for doing the job here's what I recommend:
2 x 10-15cm 3/8" extensions for the air box bolts and spark plugs
1 x 5-8cm 3/8" extensions for the spark splugs
1 x 10mm 1/4" deep socket for battery terminals, tie down, and intake scoop thing
1 x 12 3/8" mm deep socket for air box
1 x 3/8" Swivel extension for spark plugs (you'll figure out when and where to use it)
1 x 5/8 spark plug socket for the spark plugs
1 x 1/4" Ratchet
1 x 3/8" Ratchet
1 x 12 mm 1/4" drive socket for the coil/plug assembly
1 x 12 mm 1/2" drive socket for the coil/plug assembly
1 x 3/8" Inch-Pounds Torque Wrench
1 x 8mm 1/4" deep socket for air hose clamp

It is a lot easier than it looks. Here's the break down of things to do in order:
**Right Hand Side**
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove the 2 10 mm bolts holding the air scoop thing to the radiator support beam
3. Unclip the clips on the air box, loosen the clamp on the air box -> air tube
4. Unclip the MAF sensor and remove the two collant lines from their holders on top of the air box. Remove the air box.
5. Remove the air filter
6. Remove the 2 12mm bolts holding down the rest of the air box. Remove the air box.
7. Remove the 12mm bolts holding the coil/plug boot to the block (1/4" works great here)
8. Remove the spark plugs.

**Left Hand Side**
1. Disconnect the +ve battery cable
2. Loosen and remove the battery tie down
3. Remove the battery and it's plastic half box.
4. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the washer fluid reservoir in.
5. Unclip the plugs connected to the pump motors on the reservoir.
6. Remove the reservoir- get ready for fluid to leak where you disconnect the hoses!
7. Remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the coil/plug boots to the block
8. Remove the spark plugs

That's it! You'll need to figure out what tools to use from above and when, but it'll be pretty obvious when you get to it
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Old 04-10-2008, 04:06 PM   #13
04wagon@stg2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p01ntb1ank View Post
did u go one step colder?
no, stock. all but one pregapped to .028. she runs and feels alot smoother.
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Old 04-15-2008, 07:15 PM   #14
sluflyer06
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Does anyone know if the 06+ wrx uses the WRX plugs or STI plugs? I can't seem to find that anywhere.
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Old 04-15-2008, 09:30 PM   #15
shootinsoobie
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call your dealer, they will know. stock plugs should be ngk platinums
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:20 PM   #16
sluflyer06
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I'm not looking for stock plugs, and I"m already on 1 step colder copper's however I don't feel like changing them ever 3K miles so I'm looking for some Iridiums. I think I turned up what i needed LFR7AIX which is NGK IX Iridium or their newer replacement the ILFR7H the laser welded iridium.
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Old 04-27-2008, 04:52 PM   #17
ghostfoot7
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Old 04-27-2008, 04:59 PM   #18
sluflyer06
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Yea I'm up on the FAQ's. However that actually needs to be updated as it treats WRX as 2L only. When in fact the 2.5L WRX uses STI spec plugs (1" shank, etc).

I ended up putting in the NGK LFR7AIX plugs, which is oem replacement on the 06' Evolution and meets the proper spec for 2.5L Subaru heads as a 1 step colder solution.
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Old 09-27-2008, 12:07 PM   #19
el_guapo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KW_Scoob View Post
Just did my plugs and put in the stock temp Iridiums as well. I can back the statement abut midrange power- it does pull harder!
However, I don't know how old the other plugs were and they were one step hotter (good lord why?!) so I would hope brand new $$ plugs would help the engine a bit.

As for doing the job here's what I recommend:
2 x 10-15cm 3/8" extensions for the air box bolts and spark plugs
1 x 5-8cm 3/8" extensions for the spark splugs
1 x 10mm 1/4" deep socket for battery terminals, tie down, and intake scoop thing
1 x 12 3/8" mm deep socket for air box
1 x 3/8" Swivel extension for spark plugs (you'll figure out when and where to use it)
1 x 5/8 spark plug socket for the spark plugs
1 x 1/4" Ratchet
1 x 3/8" Ratchet
1 x 12 mm 1/4" drive socket for the coil/plug assembly
1 x 12 mm 1/2" drive socket for the coil/plug assembly
1 x 3/8" Inch-Pounds Torque Wrench
1 x 8mm 1/4" deep socket for air hose clamp

It is a lot easier than it looks. Here's the break down of things to do in order:
**Right Hand Side**
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove the 2 10 mm bolts holding the air scoop thing to the radiator support beam
3. Unclip the clips on the air box, loosen the clamp on the air box -> air tube
4. Unclip the MAF sensor and remove the two collant lines from their holders on top of the air box. Remove the air box.
5. Remove the air filter
6. Remove the 2 12mm bolts holding down the rest of the air box. Remove the air box.
7. Remove the 12mm bolts holding the coil/plug boot to the block (1/4" works great here)
8. Remove the spark plugs.

**Left Hand Side**
1. Disconnect the +ve battery cable
2. Loosen and remove the battery tie down
3. Remove the battery and it's plastic half box.
4. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the washer fluid reservoir in.
5. Unclip the plugs connected to the pump motors on the reservoir.
6. Remove the reservoir- get ready for fluid to leak where you disconnect the hoses!
7. Remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the coil/plug boots to the block
8. Remove the spark plugs

That's it! You'll need to figure out what tools to use from above and when, but it'll be pretty obvious when you get to it

Thanks for the write up, after debating if I wanted to mess with this or not myself, I have decided to go for it.
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