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Old 03-29-2008, 09:03 PM   #1
jdubya301
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Default The Write-up. How To Retrofit FX35 Projectors Into an 02-03 Bugeye

Ok everyone, You asked for it. here is the How-To for retrofitting infinity fx35 projectors into stock usdm 02-03 bugeye housings.






first off, i would like to say i am no professional retrofitter. this was my first major headlight project, and this writeup is intended to guide you, not show you EXACTLY how to do it.


i suggest using this write up to figure out if you are technically inclined to take on a project like this. it is by no means an easy project to do. you will need to do some improvising and some careful thinking. measure twice cut once. this project cant be reversed, so make sure to do the research BEFORE taking on this task. and also, I cannot be held responsible for any screw ups, bodily injury, legal issues, or anything else that can happen. this write up is to make the retrofit process easier for you and to clear up some questions you may have. happy reading!

step 1 sourcing parts

here is a basic list of parts you will need. i will elaborate with tips about each one.

fx35 projectors
ballasts
d2s bulbs
e55 projector shrouds

fx projectors can be found on ebay for around 60-200 bucks. there is a large price range, due to the fact there are 3 different types of lenses that come with the projectors. you want the clear lens version. keep in mind when purchasing, it is hard to tell the difference between clear, frosted, and semi frosted lenses. many of the sellers dont know the difference themselves, so buyer beware. i will try to find pics of the different lenses.

first we have the frosted lens version. these run about 60-80 bucks.

next we have semi frosted. they run about 60-100 bucks.

finally, we have the clear version. this is what you want. well, unless you are going for a tsx lens swap... but we will get to that later. they run anywhere from 120-200 bucks, sometimes higher. if it means anything to you, i paid 130 for mine.
pic of clear lens cutoff


heres a thread explaining the difference between the 3 different lens types.
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=37990

fx35 projectors are bi xenon. this means they use one bulb for high and low beam output. even though it is bixenon, they still use the same d2s bulb that every other projector uses. the projector utilizes a magnetic solenoid to physically move a small metal tab called a shield out of the way of the bulb. this creates the high beam effect.

notice the two red wires coming from the bottom of the projector. those are what power the high beam solenoid. they are not phased, and all you do is apply 12v+ to one, and ground the other. they are very quick and crisp. great for flash to pass.

ballasts
ballasts can be had for anywhere from dirt cheap to a few hundred bucks. the key is to find a set that is oem from a vehicle. it doesnt matter what brand or type of car they are from, as long as they are 35w, and have a way to attach to a d2s bulb.

brands to look for are hella, phillips, osram, and any other oem manufacturer. if you cant afford good ballasts or already have some from a plug and play kit, you can still use them.

most plug and play ballasts come with wires like this.



if they do you can buy a d2s style ignitor cord set from ebay for about 25 bucks. they enable you to use those pnp ballasts with a good oem d2s bulb. heres what they look like.


bulbs
you want to buy a high quality OEM phillips or osram bulb. no crappy hid kit bulbs. 4300k is the optimal oem color, but some settle for 5000k for a bit more blue.

dont buy 6000k or 8000k bullbs. color temperatures that high actually reduce visible light output. 4300k bulbs look very crisp, and after a certain amount of use, they will normally colorshift to about 4600-4800k.

shrouds.
the most popular shroud for this retro is the mercedes E55 shroud. they come in chrome. they fit perfect. they are made by hella. they can be hard to come by and can run anywhere from 40-100 bucks.


Electrical parts

14 gauge primary wire
ring terminals
2 relays (tyco preferred)
wire loom
fuse holders (or one nice big fuse gang)
9007 male connector w/ pins
heat shrink tubing

misc parts
rtv silicone
epoxy
high temp primer
high temp flat black
sanding sponge
foil tape
masking tape

tools
a few phillips and flathead screwdrivers
dremel w/ small cutting bit
8mm socket w/ extension
10mm socket
shop vac
air compressor
automotive trim puller
razor/exacto knife
wire strippers
soldiering iron
drill
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Last edited by jdubya301; 04-21-2008 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 03-29-2008, 09:03 PM   #2
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ok lets get started on the project!

to get started we are going to have to crack the headlights open. if you have never done this its really not hard. it is intimidating to put your nice headlights in the oven but dont sweat it. you wont screw this part up.

step 1. take out all the bulbs and take off the wiring harness. you will have to loosen the aiming screw to get the harness off.

step 2. find the two very small black screws that help hold the lens on. these need to be removed.



step 3. preheat oven to 200-210 degrees. some ovens say "warm".

step 4. place headlight assembly in the middle of the oven. make sure the lens facing you. leave it in there for 10 mins.

step 5 with gloves, pull the light out of the oven. careful, it will be hotttttttt. i normally place a towel on my lap and use my lap as a work surface for doing this.

step 6. use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry off the lens. there are a few tabs on the top and bottom that need to be pried first. just be gentle. dont crack anything or overly deform the soft plastic.

congrats. you officially opened your headlights. now would be a great time to clear and black your housings. im not going to elaborate on that as there are many threads describing how to do it.


removing the reflector bowl

to remove the reflector, 3 things need to happen. using your 8mm socket, turn the two headlight adjustment screws counterclockwise. once those are loose, you will then have to pop out the ball and socket thingy. be careful while doing this. it takes alot of force to get the ball out of the socket. the best too to use is an automotive trim remover. if you dont have one a long pair of heavy needle nose pliers will do.





after removing the reflector go ahead and remove the plastic threaded inserts that receive the adjustment screws. they will fall out on their own if you arent careful. you dont want to loose one of these, so put them in a safe place.


remove the reflector cup via the single screw

draw a crosshair and some guide lines to help with projector placement.




go ahead and cut out a big hole like this one.

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Old 03-29-2008, 09:04 PM   #3
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sealing the projector

when handling the projector it is advisable to protect the lens by using masking tape.

it is important that you seal all light leaks from the projector. use high temp rtv silicone down the sides and foil tape around the back sides. the foil tape is very strong and very adhesive. its awesome stuff to work with. i went ahead ad put some rtv silicone in the backside cracks as well.

make sure u do this step BEFORE starting to cut the projector apart. this is so that metal shavings dont get into the projector. if the shavings get inside, blow them out with an air compressor. do not use a paper towel or anything to scrape them out. they will scratch the inside of the projector bowl. (i learned this the hard way)




use a hacksaw or dremel to get rid of most of the extra metal around the projector. it should look something like this. you will want to leave some spots for mounting points.




mounting the projector

now you are ready to mount the projector. i would suggest using the "JnC" method, as horizontal rotation is hard to get right. i regret, and will admit that i did not mount my projectors this way, and it was a pain in the ass to get them completely level. heres a link to the JnC method. http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/view...t=jnc+mounting

using the reference lines i drew on the back of the projector i was able to eyeball everything. you want the cutoff shield to be level with your crosshairs.



after lining up the projector, using a stick with a little bit of grease, mark where you will need to drill mounting holes in the reflector. this is where the bolts are gonna go. i used #8 stainless machine screws.

drill the holes and mount up those projectors.

now would be a good time to test fit your lights on the car. find a level spot and shine your lights onto a wall to make sure they are aligned properly.


Last edited by jdubya301; 03-30-2008 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 03-29-2008, 09:04 PM   #4
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painting the projectors

painting the projectors is important if you want this to look good. with the shrouds mounted the projector is still visibile, so by painting them black it will somewhat hide them.
mask all appropriate parts of the projector

i used 3 coats of duplicolor engine primer, followed by 3 coats of duplicolor semi gloss black engine block paint. i used the semi gloss because it was a much deeper black then the flat finish.



be careful with your newly painted projectors as the paint chips off very easily. i did not scuff up the metal before painting so the adhesion wasnt the best

after the projectors were dry, i mixed up some epoxy and added little dabs to any corners that may scratch the paint on the reflectors. this really came in handy when mounting the projectors in the painted housings.



painting the reflectors

i used a 3m sanding sponge to remove most of the chrome on the reflector.

carefully clean the whole thing with alcohol, then apply 3 coats of primer and 3 coats of black.


painting the shrouds

this is optional, as some prefer the chrome look of the shroud. my shrouds were scratched when i bought them, so i decided to paint em silver.

sand off all the chrome (except for the inner textured part)
3 coats primer followed by 3 coats of silver duplicolor high temp engine paint


finished
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Old 03-29-2008, 09:04 PM   #5
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mounting the projectors for the last time

take your painted projectors and CAREFULLY mount them into the reflectors. this would be a good time to install the lights on your car to make sure they are 100% level before sealing up the lenses.





check to make sure it fits first!



once you are happy with the projector mounts, you can mount the shrouds. i used epoxy to glue them to the projector. i originally used rtv silicone, but it was too messy and took way too long to dry. before gluing them to the projector, do a test fit with the lens housing. the projectors themselves are a tight fit, and the shrouds make it an even tighter fit.

once everything was set, i used some epoxy to aid the bolts. i dabbed some around the edges of the projector to help keep them mounted firmly.

now you are ready to seal up your new headlight!!

preheat the oven to 210 degrees

press the lens on as much as you can. it wont go on all the way.

place the whole thing in the oven for 10 minutes

after 10 minutes, using gloves remove the light and press the lens all the way onto the back of the housing. make sure all the tabs are bent back down and everything is sealed up tightly.

replace the two tiny screws and all of the extra hardware you took off.

now its time to seal the BACK of the headlight. get yourself some flexible black rubber 3 inch plumbing caps (they come with hose clamps

they will fit over the bulbs like so. yours may not fit like this... you have to use some ingenuity to get this to work.



your light should now look like this!





Last edited by jdubya301; 06-13-2008 at 01:05 AM.
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Old 03-29-2008, 09:05 PM   #6
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wiring diagram


Last edited by jdubya301; 04-21-2008 at 06:02 PM.
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Old 03-29-2008, 09:05 PM   #7
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Wiring

let me start off by saying the wiring is pretty confusing.

this system is nice because it doesnt use ANY diodes to keep the ballasts ignited when the highbeam is selected.

i will try to thoroughly explain everything!!!

the main issue with wiring a bi-xenon set up is keeping power to the ballasts even when the high beams or flash to pass are engaged. we do this by using the common positive connection on the OEM 9007 connector.

with the round part of the connector facing up, you will see 3 pins.

the left is High Beam switched ground

the right is Low Beam switched ground

center is COMMON POSITIVE!!!!!!!


Ballasts

the ballasts are powered using a relay directly from the battery.
pin 30- 12v from battery
pin-86- ground to battery
pin 85- input from common power on 9007 plug. 12v is applied to the common power terminal (middle of the plug) when the in car headlight switch is in either low or high beam position.
pin 87- power output to the ballasts.

high beam solenoids

this part is confusing. for this circuit we are actually going to use a switched ground to apply power to the solenoids.

pin 30- switched high beam ground from OEM 9007 connector
pin 86- 12v input from common positive OEM 9007 connector
pin 85- switched high beam ground from OEM 9007 connector
pin 87- ground output from relay, connects to solenoid

to complete the circuit, the other solenoid lead will connect to the common power.


so this is how the high beam solenoid works. when the headlight switch is turned to low beam, 12v power is sent to the solenoids. when the headlight switch is flipped to high beam, ground is sent to the relay, the relay closes, and ground is sent to the solenoid to complete the circuit.

Last edited by jdubya301; 04-21-2008 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 03-29-2008, 09:05 PM   #8
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reserved
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Old 03-29-2008, 09:06 PM   #9
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wiring harness


self soldering terminals = awesome!!!!!

Last edited by jdubya301; 04-19-2008 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 03-29-2008, 09:06 PM   #10
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heres some useful lighting links

awesome explanation of alot of stuff!
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2080

aiming
http://danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html


supra with color modded/ custom polished clear lens fx35
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/view...highlight=fx35

Last edited by jdubya301; 03-30-2008 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 03-29-2008, 09:06 PM   #11
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pics and some video of the output

sorry these pics arent the best.. i didnt have my dslr with me so i had to use my friends little point and shoot.







high beams

Last edited by jdubya301; 03-29-2008 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 03-30-2008, 01:27 AM   #12
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lol, I've always wonder if this could be done.. your are my hero..
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Old 03-30-2008, 04:33 AM   #13
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"heres a link to the JnC method" where's the link?
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Old 03-30-2008, 07:57 AM   #14
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Sweet Jeebus.... :bowdown:

SUBSCRIBED!!!!!
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Old 03-30-2008, 11:27 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by "D" View Post
"heres a link to the JnC method" where's the link?

fixed the link! thanks for letting me know
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Old 03-30-2008, 01:26 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdubya301 View Post
fixed the link! thanks for letting me know
No problem.

jdubya301 you are the MAN!
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Old 04-01-2008, 12:57 AM   #17
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subscribed
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Old 04-01-2008, 01:01 AM   #18
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umm...

if it were me i'd make bigger and better shrouds and FORGET about all that ridiculous seal and paint stuff with the projectors.
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Old 04-01-2008, 01:09 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handsdown View Post
umm...

if it were me i'd make bigger and better shrouds and FORGET about all that ridiculous seal and paint stuff with the projectors.
that would be tough. seemed like e55s were the way to go as thats what almost everyone uses for this project.

i was going to make a panel out of cf or plastic to cover up the back of the projector, but i think it would actually look worse.

sealing the projector would probably be necessary with almost any shroud in place, due to the fact that there is A TON of light leakage.

also sealing the projector before cutting the sides off helps to keep metal shavings out. the first projector i worked on was full of metal dust, and consequentially, the shavings scratched up the inside of the bowl.

trust me, its really hard to see the projector. the pic i took was zoomed in and really focused on it. when actually looking at the car in person, the projector is not noticeable, it kind of lurks in the depths of the headlight
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Old 04-02-2008, 09:20 PM   #20
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Nice!!!! You answered some questions I had about mounting and cutting.....

Still aiming is what I'm worried about most.
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:29 AM   #21
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yeah, i was totally worried about horizontal aiming.

with the mounting method i used, it took me about 6 times to get it right.

in the pics i posted the passenger side isnt even level. earlier tonight i adjusted the horizontal aiming screw and the projector leveled itself. when using the aiming screws, the whole reflector bowl actually rotates. its hard to explain, but once you realize how the reflector is mounted you will understand.

when i did these minor adjustments tonight, both projectors actually became almost perfectly level with eachother. this is why i recommend the JnC method, as adjustments are very easy to do even when the headlight is resealed.

hope this post made sense.
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Old 04-03-2008, 03:08 PM   #22
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Yeah the JnC method looks like it works well but almost seems like you could improve upon it. I think I would like it more if I had a full cover over my projectors like the ones he used in the write up. I believe it would be to exposed in a bug eye. Don't know yet how I'm going to do it but we we see
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Old 04-03-2008, 07:40 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02wrb-x View Post
Yeah the JnC method looks like it works well but almost seems like you could improve upon it. I think I would like it more if I had a full cover over my projectors like the ones he used in the write up. I believe it would be to exposed in a bug eye. Don't know yet how I'm going to do it but we we see
the only way i could think of improving the JnC method would be to drill and tap some threads right into the bottom of the projectors, eliminating the need for those dorkey looking tabs. there is a nice little lip on the bottom of the projector that would be a great spot to do this.

trust me, its hard to see the projectors. they really blend into the backround, and all you notice are the shrouds.

there are a few things i would like to try out on another retrofit lke the JnC deal, color modding, a tsx swap, and a cut off shield modification.

i may think about selling these so that i can try another retro and really do some cool stuff!
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Old 04-04-2008, 03:10 AM   #24
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^^
what if you plan to add "angel eye" halo rings over the shroud, do you think it would it would expose the "hidden" projector because theres no cover over it?
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Old 04-04-2008, 04:14 AM   #25
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That's some great work! Should be a sticky!
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