timing belt Q's

burm · 04-01-2008, 02:52 PM

I know this has been covered multiple times, so I'm sorry for adding to it. And yes I have searched and read every post I could find over this. But since I'm doing the timing belt on an interference engine, with DOHC I want to be sure I'm doing it right. Also, this is the first timing belt I've done. I dont have the money to pay a shop or dealer to do, that and my car would have to be towed. So I'm attempting it myself.

Im actually not doing my timing belt, My timing belt only has about 20 thousand miles on it. It was done shortly before I bought the car. But my crank pulley went out and they key was in it was destroyed, in turn it destroyed the woodruff key. I have a new pulley and key, but in order to install the new key I have to remove the timing belt and remove the crank pulley sprocket.

I have the radiator out and the covers off and all that good stuff. From everything I've read people talk about the special cam tools to hold the cams in place. I know they aren't need, but I did go out and hunt some down and buy them, they aren't easy to find from and auto parts store. And I could only find one camclamp, and Since its DOHC I obviously need to, but I figure I can rig something up. And from reading previous post it seems like only once side likes to spin out, and has trouble staying in place. And here is where my first question comes in.

What side tends to spin and has the most trouble staying in place. In my opinion, left equals driver side and right equals passenger side, i just want to make that clear.

Second question is when it comes to the tensioner. I read the write up from endwrench and they talk about using some compression device, which yeah I don't have. Other write up talk about using a screw driver and a nail or allen wrench, something small to jam in there to relieve the tension. Well I'm wondering if someone can clear this up for me.

Also everythings I've read talks about how to align the timing marks with the belt still on. Is that mainly aimed towards the cams? Because i will have to align the crank at a different time since i will be removing the gear to replace the key.

Any other advice would be great too thanks for the help.

And just for the curious ones, from what i can see so far there is no damage to the crank sprocket, or the crank. The part of the key that sits under the crank sprocket seems to be find. The only thing is i can see a little bit of damage to the right side of the dip where the woodruff key sits. I'm planing on using some slow setting JB weld to fix this problem, I know its not a permanent fix but from what I've read it will hold out for at least a couple of months until I can get some cash to fix the problem.

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burm · 04-01-2008, 10:34 PM

Anyone?

silver2004impreza · 04-01-2008, 11:07 PM

When I was working for Saturn, there was a trick I learned that might be useful to you. Since you're not changing the belt itself, just get some binder clips and use them to clamp the belt to the cam pullies. After that, remove one of the idlers and the tensioner to give yourself some slack in the belt and then pull the old crank pulley/woodruff key off the car and install the new one. Compress the tensioner, re-install the idler and the tensioner, remove the binder clips and make sure everything is still kosher.

I learned that trick on a V6 powered Vue that needed a front main seal. I know that a Honda V6 isn't the same as a DOHC Subaru engine, but the principle may still work. Good luck.

burm · 04-02-2008, 12:20 AM

Thanks for the tip. I might just give that a try. But if i loosen the tension of the belt, will the cams still spin? Will everything still be in time, if i put the crank sprocket back on how it was?

silver2004impreza · 04-02-2008, 06:46 AM

The binder clips (I think you'll need 8 of them, 2 per cam sprocket) are using the TB to hold the cams still. Just put the clips 90 degrees apart from one another and it should work, at least in theory it will. I've never actually done it to a Subaru engine before.

As far as clip placement goes, on the driver side intake sprocket, put one clip at 12 o'clock and another one at 3 o'clock. You might not even need to clip the bottom of the two exhaust cams, I'm not sure. Like I said, I've never done this to a Subaru engine.

burm · 04-03-2008, 10:22 PM

bump... Ive been working to much and haven't had time to work on it. Any one else with advice.

THEVERGE · 04-03-2008, 11:13 PM

Driver side cams will need to be held in place. The valves on that side are open when you time the engine.

burm · 04-03-2008, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by THEVERGE

Driver side cams will need to be held in place. The valves on that side are open when you time the engine.

thank you very much for the input. I new one of the cams, could really cause some damage if they moved I just wasnt sure which side.

04-01-2008, 02:52 PM	#1
burm Scooby Newbie Member#: 153807 Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: chicago burbs Vehicle: 2001 Impreza rs Aspen white	timing belt Q's I know this has been covered multiple times, so I'm sorry for adding to it. And yes I have searched and read every post I could find over this. But since I'm doing the timing belt on an interference engine, with DOHC I want to be sure I'm doing it right. Also, this is the first timing belt I've done. I dont have the money to pay a shop or dealer to do, that and my car would have to be towed. So I'm attempting it myself. Im actually not doing my timing belt, My timing belt only has about 20 thousand miles on it. It was done shortly before I bought the car. But my crank pulley went out and they key was in it was destroyed, in turn it destroyed the woodruff key. I have a new pulley and key, but in order to install the new key I have to remove the timing belt and remove the crank pulley sprocket. I have the radiator out and the covers off and all that good stuff. From everything I've read people talk about the special cam tools to hold the cams in place. I know they aren't need, but I did go out and hunt some down and buy them, they aren't easy to find from and auto parts store. And I could only find one camclamp, and Since its DOHC I obviously need to, but I figure I can rig something up. And from reading previous post it seems like only once side likes to spin out, and has trouble staying in place. And here is where my first question comes in. What side tends to spin and has the most trouble staying in place. In my opinion, left equals driver side and right equals passenger side, i just want to make that clear. Second question is when it comes to the tensioner. I read the write up from endwrench and they talk about using some compression device, which yeah I don't have. Other write up talk about using a screw driver and a nail or allen wrench, something small to jam in there to relieve the tension. Well I'm wondering if someone can clear this up for me. Also everythings I've read talks about how to align the timing marks with the belt still on. Is that mainly aimed towards the cams? Because i will have to align the crank at a different time since i will be removing the gear to replace the key. Any other advice would be great too thanks for the help. And just for the curious ones, from what i can see so far there is no damage to the crank sprocket, or the crank. The part of the key that sits under the crank sprocket seems to be find. The only thing is i can see a little bit of damage to the right side of the dip where the woodruff key sits. I'm planing on using some slow setting JB weld to fix this problem, I know its not a permanent fix but from what I've read it will hold out for at least a couple of months until I can get some cash to fix the problem. * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

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04-01-2008, 10:34 PM	#2
burm Scooby Newbie Member#: 153807 Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: chicago burbs Vehicle: 2001 Impreza rs Aspen white	Anyone?

04-01-2008, 11:07 PM	#3
silver2004impreza Scooby Newbie Member#: 127878 Join Date: Oct 2006 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Little Havana (Manassas) Vehicle: 2004 Impreza 2.5TS 2004 Outback sedan H6	When I was working for Saturn, there was a trick I learned that might be useful to you. Since you're not changing the belt itself, just get some binder clips and use them to clamp the belt to the cam pullies. After that, remove one of the idlers and the tensioner to give yourself some slack in the belt and then pull the old crank pulley/woodruff key off the car and install the new one. Compress the tensioner, re-install the idler and the tensioner, remove the binder clips and make sure everything is still kosher. I learned that trick on a V6 powered Vue that needed a front main seal. I know that a Honda V6 isn't the same as a DOHC Subaru engine, but the principle may still work. Good luck.

04-02-2008, 12:20 AM	#4
burm Scooby Newbie Member#: 153807 Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: chicago burbs Vehicle: 2001 Impreza rs Aspen white	Thanks for the tip. I might just give that a try. But if i loosen the tension of the belt, will the cams still spin? Will everything still be in time, if i put the crank sprocket back on how it was?

04-02-2008, 06:46 AM	#5
silver2004impreza Scooby Newbie Member#: 127878 Join Date: Oct 2006 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Little Havana (Manassas) Vehicle: 2004 Impreza 2.5TS 2004 Outback sedan H6	The binder clips (I think you'll need 8 of them, 2 per cam sprocket) are using the TB to hold the cams still. Just put the clips 90 degrees apart from one another and it should work, at least in theory it will. I've never actually done it to a Subaru engine before. As far as clip placement goes, on the driver side intake sprocket, put one clip at 12 o'clock and another one at 3 o'clock. You might not even need to clip the bottom of the two exhaust cams, I'm not sure. Like I said, I've never done this to a Subaru engine.

04-03-2008, 10:22 PM	#6
burm Scooby Newbie Member#: 153807 Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: chicago burbs Vehicle: 2001 Impreza rs Aspen white	bump... Ive been working to much and haven't had time to work on it. Any one else with advice.

04-03-2008, 11:13 PM	#7
THEVERGE Scooby Newbie Member#: 127421 Join Date: Sep 2006 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Eaton, Ohio Vehicle: 2002 Subaru WRX WRB	Driver side cams will need to be held in place. The valves on that side are open when you time the engine.