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Old 04-03-2008, 02:29 AM   #26
99 rs
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Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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*****************************

AC Relay Control. B134-17(RS) to D27(WRX).



*************************************

Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor. B136-12(RS) to B15(WRX). The green wire.






*******************************************

Line End Check 2 (goes to OBD2 Check Plug). B135-21(RS) to A20(WRX).



*********************************

SSM/GST (goes to OBD2 Check Plug). B135-3(RS) to A21(WRX).



**********************************

Engine Speed (RPM/Output). B134-30(RS) toC9(WRX).



***********************************

Blower Fan Switch. No position on 99 RS. A9(WRX). The wire spits into 3 places form the WRX ECU. Two go to the HVAC panel controls and the other to the blower motor fan relay. Some random pictures of the wires. Note: I was told by a reliable source that the 2000/01 RS’s have this wire at the ECU.

The 3 wire junction.


Green/red stripe wire.


Wire at HVAC panel.
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:31 AM   #27
99 rs
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Join Date: Nov 2005
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Location: Edmonton
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2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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Wire at relay (far left).


**********************************
Small Light switch. No position on 99RS. A17(WRX). This wire splits into two from the WRX ECU. One goes to the combination switch. The other goes to the fuse panel. The same color wire is on the RS it just doesn’t split off into the ECU. It even goes to the same position on the fuse panel. Note: I was told by a reliable source that the 2000/01 RS’s have this wire at the ECU.

The white and black wire.









*************************************

Rear Window Defogger. No position on the 99RS. A3(WRX). Splits into two wires. One to the fuse box, the other to the rear defogger switch. Note: I was told by a reliable source that the 2000/01 RS’s have this wire at the ECU.

Blue wire.


Again it’s the blue wire in the back.


*********************************************
Oil Pressure Switch. B21-5(RS) to SMJ-I1(WRX). This wire goes straight from the RS grey engine plug to the gauge cluster. I removed mine from the RS engine plug and spliced it into the same wire on the SMJ of the WRX. This is one of the reason's why people's oil light's don't work after they do their swaps. They think all of the wires to splice are at the ECU.



These pictures are still from the oil pressure switch above. RS engine plug.
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:32 AM   #28
99 rs
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Location: Edmonton
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2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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************************************************** ******
Thermometer. B21-10(RS) to SMJ-J1. Same idea as the last wire but with the thermometer. This is the MAIN REASON why people's temperature gauge doesn't work. This wire goes straight from the engine to the gauge cluster.






************************************************** *********

Throttle Position sensor. B136-15(RS) to B9(WRX). This wire splits in two on the RS. One goes to the engine plugs, the other to the rear of the harness. Only splice the one that goes to the rear of the harness.





***********************************

Transmission common Green/Black stripe wires. This junctions into many different things. Conveniently there are only two wires coming from the RS tranny cord and two wires coming from the WRX tranny cord. So I spliced them into each other and cut the RS ones away while splicing the WRX wires into the bulk harness. Note: if you’re not doing a tranny swap then you want need to do this.



If you're curious the tape says "common green", "speed sensor" and "reverse back up light"


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Old 04-03-2008, 02:33 AM   #29
99 rs
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2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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********************************

Reverse wire. Again, not needed if not doing a tranny swap.



*****************************

This is pretty much what is left to splice at the ECU among Grounds and Powers. Just a general picture.



*****************************

SMJ mistake. I accidentally cut this when I was unwrapping the WRX harness. These kinds of things will happen on the first time.


I had to extend the wire which is the reasoning for the different stripe color.




********************************

And while I have everything apart I’m also adding a few features that my car didn’t come with such as:

Ash tray light


Glove box light


**********************************

CPU Power. Common yellow/blue stripe wire. Several wires going to places such as fuel pump, MAF, the wire that runs close to the SMJ, ECU, etc.



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Old 04-03-2008, 02:34 AM   #30
99 rs
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Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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**********************************

Common yellow/red stripe wire. I kept all of the factory WRX junctions. Only 1 splice. All of the other wires on the bulk harness went to the RS engine so it’s not needed.




******************************

Back-up Power Supply B136-9 (RS) to D10 (WRX). There is a close junction near the WRX ecu so that is why the splice is so close to the ECU.



**************************

So far this is the left over extra harness that I further cut form the WRX bulk harness. When I originally un-wrapped the WRX harness I followed every wire completely to where each wire goes. The time spent following these wires back and then just throwing them away was well wasted though. Especially for the defogger, small light and blower fan switches.



**************************

And again, while I had everything apart I decided to throw in some intercooler sprayers and headlight washers. It’s very easy to do and really easy to make it look OEM when everything is apart.





My make shift relay to make sure I’m wiring things correctly. Don’t want my car setting on fire.


The two extra plugs that will go beside the fog and cruise buttons


These merged wires are for the lights in the switch. So when I turn on my lights and the fog and cruise buttons light up, so will these. More of an OEM look.


Roughly the 4 positions of the switches. Still have to tape them nicely.
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:35 AM   #31
99 rs
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Location: Edmonton
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2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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Tied into the general bulk harness of the RS.






I/C trigger wire going to relay wire.


Headlight sprayer trigger wire.


Relay output wire going to pos of the I/C sprayer tank motor.



To hook the I/C Sprayer system up you must build a relay. I had a standard 5-pin relay. The center 87a spot is not used. You hook:

-pin 86 to ground
-pin 85 to pin 6 of I/C sprayer switch
-pin 30 to constant 12V (along with pin 4 on the switch)
-pin 87 goes to pos of the sprayer motor

To mount the fuel pump controller we found a good place to put it. It's right behind the passenger seat belt pulley assembly. I really didn't want to mount it in the trunk because I think it looks pretty ghetto. This way you won't be able to see it at all (and don't need to).


Have to bend the tab down to make it sit flush.
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:36 AM   #32
99 rs
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Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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You have to unplug your RS fuel pump connector and plug the controller in between (no wiring involved). On the fuel pump controller (among the plug mentioned above) there are two wires running to the ECU. The wires for the controller are very long; I shortened mine up to not have extra wire. I made my own little harness and used all the plugs.







I also put some rubber to protect the wires from rubbing through (I later taped these wires together nicely).




*******************************
I had these mirrors on my car for a while and they work great. They really are more of a novelty then anything but they look cool when you fold them in. Mine were originally silver so it was really hard to paint everything black and you could always see specs of silver behind the mirror. Plus the angles of the bases were designed for a RHD car. To get proper viewing angle you had to adjust them a stupid amount each way and they looked funny. So I thought I would just change the bases over. I was wrong. They did not fit in any way at all. A lot of “persuasion” was needed but they fit.





To get the mirrors off we used a heat gun on the lowest setting and constantly moved it around as to not create a hot spot.



Last edited by 99 rs; 04-30-2008 at 12:27 AM.
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:38 AM   #33
99 rs
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2007 Outback 2.5i

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JDM on top. RS on bottom.


There is a slight difference as you can see here.




Some work with the grinder.






You also have to adjust one of the holes slightly as can be seen here (bottom left hole).


And for the wiring just run 2 wires from the switch straight to the mirrors and you’re done. No real wiring involved.
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:43 AM   #34
99 rs
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Location: Edmonton
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2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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***********************

I also added in a few more things here and there. Almost all new nav units need a speed sensor input and some need a reverse sense input. I’m trying to limit the amount of wiring running across the car so I tapped in to all of the wires I need right at the bulk harness and ran them to by the stereo.
Reverse signal input for rear view camera.


Speed sensor and parking brake as well. This way I won’t have to tap in to any of the parts directly. Cleans things up a bit.


**********************************
And yet more useless toys. I got this reverse sensing system for $24. I’m planning on getting the smooth JDM bumper soon so I installed these into this bumper. It was pretty easy as well.


My wiring harness I made for the reverse sensors.




Mounted the unit.


The beeper.


And again with protecting the wires. That edge is pretty sharp. No sense in burning down my car over reverse sensors.


******************************

And back to the main stuff. Most of the wiring is now done. Still have to wire in the two stray wires from the fuel pump controller to the ECU but besides that we’re ready to start taping up. We started on all the stuff we new wouldn’t give us an issue. We’re going to leave the ecu untaped until we know the car runs.
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:44 AM   #35
99 rs
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Location: Edmonton
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2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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On the far right is the I/C sprayer relay hooked up in the same position as the other OEM relays.


The piece of the harness that comes out of the firewall "unfortunately" right above the turbo in a GC. Make sure you tape this up properly.


Front fog lights/cruise/intercooler sprayer/headlight washer. Tried to make it look as OEM as possible.

The few wires running from the SMJ to the gauge cluster.




The white/green coiled wires you see are for another special item I’m putting in that had to be wired in as well and will be soon.


Notice the left over jackets and loom in the background from when pulling apart the WRX harness. Never throw these out until you’re done with your wiring.


***************************

The blue/red stripe wire is what you ground in the fuel pump relay (the green plug). It is a thin gauge wire on the WRX relay. I used a thicker gauge wire. I’m sure it doesn’t matter. I will ground it in the car.


**********************
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:45 AM   #36
99 rs
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Location: Edmonton
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2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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Running the SMJ. We decided to run it through the fender well plug like the rest of the wires are ran that control the front accessories. When we took off the clips that hold the RS harness on there was a perfect spot to run the SMJ wires. It’s like the car was meant to have a turbo.


SMJ taped up again.


We pushed the plugs through this grommet.


The OEM wiring we just hung down for now.


Opposite side of the grommet that we pushed the SMJ through.




Notice the SMJ sits right on top of the rest of the wires that are already there.


The battery is right behind this piece of metal. Lots of room to run the SMJ.

I/C relay again hanging on the right. I also put a zip tie on it later to make sure it doesn't come unplugged.
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:46 AM   #37
99 rs
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Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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Notice the green fuel pump relay grounded with the thicker gauge wire.


***************************

The WRX pedals were a bit trickier then we thought they would be. The mounting points are different on the two cars so we just took the actual assembly apart from the two cars and placed the guts of the WRX assembly into the RS housing. Note: some guy on NASIOC said he got his pedals to work.










************************************

Also the brake master cylinder has a different end on each car. You have to use the proper one for the proper car. I’m still going to use the WRX one because it is a bigger diameter. Not by much but some. The RS is 1 inch I believe and the WRX is 1 inch and a bit. The booster itself looks to be much bigger.

RS master cylinder on the left. WRX on the right.

******************

And we just quickly threw in the heater core because we’re so close to putting it back in.


******************************
I’m also putting on a flat fuel door while everything is out of the car as well.
The RS trunk release handle.
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:47 AM   #38
99 rs
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Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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Both trunk and gas release handles.


Both cables beside each other.


Two 10mm bolts hold it onto the car.


RS holder nub.


Cable release holder nub.


From holder nub.


Over the strut and down the seat back.


Across the seat bottom. Note: RS had the plastic holder already there for the second cable.


To pulling assembly.


************************
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:48 AM   #39
99 rs
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Location: Edmonton
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2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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Power trunk release.

The unit I got is from a 300ZX. It fits perfectly in between the space of the RS latch. There is no cutting or drilling to make it fit at all. All you have to do is drill the bolt holes. It's hard to see here but it's actually in between the empty space where the latch goes.

*******************

Here are the two fuel pump controller wires that lead form the ECU straight to the controller. They are the thin gauge wires. I wanted to splice them in the car to make my work look clean. No sense in having excess wire all over the place.



And just some general pictures of some wires I taped up instead of leaving them bare.




Note: OEM RS is the thick batch of cables on the bottom. The other two are the harnesses I made. The little one is for the fuel controller. The other is for trunk sensing, trunk popping and intercooler sprayer motor along with some other special devices which should make my car pretty secure.




*********************

The almighty heated seat harness.

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Old 04-03-2008, 02:50 AM   #40
99 rs
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2007 Outback 2.5i

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Ground for passenger seat.




This plug is on the passenger side foot well. The blue wire on top is where you pin the wire into to have a OEM relayed and fused system. The same wire in the corresponding plug goes to the pink plug near the AC under-dash box. I found a wire that worked with the plug so I could pin it right in and still retain the factory look. Note: make sure you route the wire with the rest of the wires and not behind the bracket as shown in the picture.




******************


Some random pictures as I’m putting the dash back together. Note the fuel pump relay and its ground.




There is a yellow/blue stripe wire that runs along the with the SMJ but outside of the SMJ. This wire goes to a connector and continues on to the ECU common wires. I didn’t cut anything when pulling apart the WRX harness so I was able to just pin it into an empty spot in the RS bulk harness. No soldering, I can unplug stuff if I need to. Just a cleaner look. And conveniently there is a plug that has the same size of pins as the one needed and one empty spot. This picture shows the empty spot in the plug.




Again same picture just a bit farther away.







*************

General picture


Last edited by 99 rs; 04-30-2008 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:50 AM   #41
99 rs
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2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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*********************
Slowly started putting more things back. Started with the alarm/starter combo. I got to put it back in the way I wanted and cleaned up all the messy wiring that was there before.




Unpinned any wires I didn’t need in the alarm/starter

Also threw in a back-up battery to supply the back-up siren and GPS locator. Note: specifically took pictures to avoid showing how the GPS system looks like.

Found my tach wire in the SMJ so I didn’t need an extra wire running into the engine bay.

A general picture.


This is where it used to be.


Also made the STI key work. Took some grinding. It took about 10 minutes to make it work in the ignition. About another hour to make it work everywhere else. The scratches aren't as noticable in real life.


I’m using the WRX clutch cylinder and brake booster/master cylinder. The brake booster is much bigger and covers up some stuff (you don’t really need access to).

Picture of the steering shaft exit point.


Same exit point but from in the car.

Last edited by 99 rs; 04-30-2008 at 12:54 AM.
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:52 AM   #42
99 rs
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Join Date: Nov 2005
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Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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Throttle cable. I also used the WRX cable because it is longer. The fitting is different at the firewall but it’s very easy to make it work.


The difference in length.


The brake lines on the RS differ slightly then how they are on the WRX. Just a 90 degree bend is all they need. We used a socket to not put a kink in the line. Do it slowly and don’t use your finger to make the bends and you’ll be fine.

Stock RS.


Bent WRX.


ECU mounted.


Cover put on.


Heated seat relay. There is a factory clip location on the dash bar that fits the relay perfectly. It’s the pink one.




General picture.
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:53 AM   #43
99 rs
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Location: Edmonton
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2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

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These are the wires that go behind the heater box. I ran all of my wires in the bulk harness to give it an OEM look. This is probably the main reason why I took the harness out. Note: this stage took my a while to do. The first time I put the AC box in the wires were really tight against the box. I wasn’t happy with the fitment. After un-taping some wires and re-taping them there is now about an inch give on the wires after everything is all bolted up. There is no sense in half-assing this stage after coming so far.


Motor ready to go back in. We drained the tranny fluid so it wouldn’t leak all over the place when the engine was up at an angle.










General picture with nothing hooked up.




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Old 04-03-2008, 02:54 AM   #44
99 rs
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2007 Outback 2.5i

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Picture of the back of the tranny and shifter linkage.



The linkage that mates up to the shifter.



Looking back towards the diff.



2006 WRX exhaust on the left. 2002 WRX exhaust on the right. The muffler is a bit bigger on the 06 but still fits on the RS no problem.





Resonator difference between the two.



The oxygen sensor is in a different position on the WRX downpipe portion. On the RS cat section it is coming out of the driver side. On the WRX it is coming out of the passenger side. So we just cut out a hole in the heat shield and then buffed it down do a smooth edge to not cut the harness.




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Old 04-03-2008, 02:55 AM   #45
99 rs
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2007 Outback 2.5i

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I took one of those hangers that bends itself to hold the wires off my RS tranny and put an extra one on the tranny now. It holds the wires a lot nicer and it’s up out of the way of all moving parts.





The downpipe. HKS replica.








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Old 04-03-2008, 02:56 AM   #46
99 rs
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Location: Edmonton
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2007 Outback 2.5i

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This is what you get when you pay someone to do your install. There were nine different connection points to the ignition harness. I re-installed my alarm/starter and completely cleaned all the wiring up.


Can see the compustar unit behind the cluster. You can somewhat see it from underneath but can’t really make anything out of it the way it sits. I tried to hide is as best I could.





Compass pack/outside temp gauge going back in.





I also have a jdm cluster going in. I want to hook up the low fluid level warning light on the I/C sprayer. It’s very easily done but I’ll do that when I put my stereo back in.






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Old 04-03-2008, 02:57 AM   #47
99 rs
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2007 Outback 2.5i

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I also put a GPS tracker system on my car rigged up to the back-up battery unit pictured on a few pages back. If anyone does ever steal this car then they have 45 minutes to get rid of it COMPLETELY since the tracker remembers it's last position. I put it in such a spot that you have to be really good at taking cars apart to get at it plus you'd never think of the spot anyways. The battery lasts for A LOT longer then 45 minutes on the back-up unit with the amount of power this thing takes. This is the main reason there weren't many pictures of the interior going back together. I made sure this wasn't in any pictures.

The unit






************************************
****************************************

Ignition wires before on the alarm/starter.




Ignition wires after. I just added in a 3 inch section of wire. You can see the cut out parts in the background.


Intermittent wipers. Very easy to do.


Remove the two little bolts you see.

Last edited by 99 rs; 04-30-2008 at 12:56 AM.
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:58 AM   #48
99 rs
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2007 Outback 2.5i

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Controls in.


Clock spring in.


Top cover on.


Bottom cover on.


WRX carpet on the left. RS on the right. I really wanted to use the WRX carpet but I wasn’t happy with the fitment. Overall it was pretty good but I was planning on getting a sti carpet anyways. So I’ll spend my time making that one fit proper instead of this one. But some pictures of the two anyways.


WRX carpet.


RS


WRX
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Old 04-03-2008, 02:59 AM   #49
99 rs
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2007 Outback 2.5i

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RS


RS


WRX



WRX pitch stop mount.


RS pitch stop mount.


WRX on the left. RS on the right.


RS e-brake handle.


WRX e-brake handle.


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Old 04-03-2008, 03:01 AM   #50
99 rs
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There is a perfect stop to mount the SMJ plugs. The 10mm bolt is already on our cars. The notches on the bracket of the plugs even fits in without any modification. It’s right in front of the washer tank.







Random picture.


Random picture.



To make the WRX radiator fit in you have to shave off one of the holder brackets on the WRX fan shroud. Not a lot but a little just to give it some clearance.




It’s a tight fit but nothing rubs or touches even when we push and tug on the engine.


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