Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Monday September 1, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Subaru Conversions

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-03-2008, 02:02 AM   #51
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default




It looks like it’s touching but it really isn’t.



Can see the portion we had to cut off.




I found out the hard way that RS AC lines don’t bolt up to the WRX AC Pump. Nobody told me. This goes to show again DO YOUR RESEARCH before you start your swap. I’ll know next time but it would be so much easier to take the pump off when it was outside of the car.




Even with the RS AC pump in you still have to bend the line a little. This is how much it is off. The line fits into the fitting but the bolt hole doesn’t line up.


* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by 99 rs; 04-30-2008 at 12:10 AM.
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:02 AM   #52
ProjectKN
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 115143
Join Date: May 2006
Default

I'm planning on doing the same thing. Your descriptive details will be very helpful. Do you know if the wrx dashboard will fit into the RS?
ProjectKN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:03 AM   #53
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default



Bent line.







Random picture.


Random picture.


Up-pipe clearance on the cross-member. Don’t know why I took a picture of it.


HVAC stuff in and hooked up.



To mount the power steering reservoir we used one of the rebar bolts in the front. It holds it very well plus we didn’t have to modify any part of the frame rail.

Last edited by 99 rs; 04-30-2008 at 12:14 AM.
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:04 AM   #54
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default







My brother is going to start making brackets to hold things that look like they’re all over the place right now. This is just a practice one to hold the plugs you see that are just hanging.


**************************

Difference in battery trays. The WRX has a little protector plate on it.


************************************


I didn’t post this wiring on the other pages because I wasn’t sure of it myself. I didn’t want to give any wrong info. So to all the guru’s out there watching the thread you probably noticed I “missed” a few wires in my pictures. These wires are as follows:

Off of the SMJ there is a decently sized gauge wire that doesn’t run to the ECU (after almost all of the other ones do). Said wire is the coolant temperature sensor. It goes from the SMJ STRAIGHT to the gauges. I’ve noticed many swapped cars already for sale that said that the coolant gauge doesn’t work. This is the most likely reason why. Sorry, don’t have a picture of this wire.

*****************************

I said on some of my first pages that I didn’t want to hack job this swap up. I wanted to make wiring look as clean as possible. I also wanted to use every single check connector off the WRX harness. And I have accomplished that. All of the flash connectors and check connectors are hooked up on my car. I copied the way the wires on the fuel assembly side of the WRX harness were and made my RS harness match that. It involved un-pinning two wires and adding a wire that runs from said flash connector to the plug itself.

Top, RS plug.


Bottom RS plug.


***********************************

I decided to get fancy with the camera for the first time this swap as well. Top of the same plug but in the WRX.


Bottom WRX plug.

Last edited by 99 rs; 04-30-2008 at 12:18 AM.
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:05 AM   #55
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default

I basically traced every wire back on the RS and WRX and made sure that the RS plug in my car matched the WRX plug. I did this back when the harness was out of the car. For anyone looking just make sure you match the pin arrangements and you’ll be fine. Having said all that I have found out from a reliable source that you don’t need to do this. I did it anyway. And all gauges and sensors work in my car just fine. As with everything, you can follow my advice at your own risk (note: that was my disclaimer; if you mess your car up it’s not my fault).

*********************************

To prime the turbo I unplugged the fuel pump controller and cranked the engine three times for ten seconds at a time. I then plugged the fuel pump controller back in and the car fired up. I turned it off after about 20 seconds of it running and took this video:

The stupid video won’t load onto Photobucket. It shows it running and I walk over and show the gauge cluster and the absent check engine light.
We managed to get it running with no problems, no check engine lights, no issues and no we did not “get lucky”. We just double checked everything before putting anything back together. After the last video we bled the brakes, put the wheels on and kicked the living llll out of the car. Damn does she move. The brakes feel amazing. It boosts good, it rides good, everything works (including heated seats which are a must up here). And just in the nick of time.


Short video just after that last time we drove the car:


Random Picture


Here is that bracket we made again for the plugs. Finally got around to attaching the base of the clips to the bracket so we could still take off the plugs as we wish.



Here the plugs are on.




Cruise control unit bolted up nice and easy. There is even an empty spot on the I/C mount to put a bolt through. The unit is farther away from the turbo then some of the other lines and there is still enough room for the air deflector to deflect air at the turbo. So it should be fine.




There was no pretty way to run the CC cable. Following the OEM WRX route wouldn’t work because the RS cable is too long. So we ran it in such a way that there would be the least amount of kinks.


Last edited by 99 rs; 04-30-2008 at 12:19 AM.
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:07 AM   #56
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default

Random picture








There is still a lot of little stuff to do such as underhood, extend battery cable, I/C sprayer nozzles, etc. Since September 3 (the day we got it running) I’ve worked on it for maybe 5 hours. Damn University is taking up all of my time. I just put the passenger seat in not too long ago. Still driving around with no interior and lower dash. Pretty much anything that’s not needed to drive isn’t there (at this stage).


Dash button plugs. The two on the left seem like they’re tight but they have give to them.









Flat fuel door picture.


99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:08 AM   #57
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default

My shifter for some reason had almost no grease in it. So I greaseballed it up.













I noticed on the fuse box that there is even a spot for the heated seat fuse. So the RS really is half pre-wired for heated seats.





Heated seats and mirror switch plugs roughly located in the OEM locations.


I’m enjoying the heated seats the most so far out of anything. I highly recommend them to all who live in a climate that requires them.
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:09 AM   #58
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default

Thanks to stg2lgcy00 for the shroud. We just had to come up with a make shift prop rod holder. Found one that works very well and holds it in the proper position.










A quick guide to hooking up heated seats

The car is half pre-wired for heated seats. On the actual RS wiring diagrams it shows that the relay controls the rear "12 Volt Accessory" on the wagons (rear cigarette lighter plug). On the WRX diagram it showed the relay in the exact same position, same wiring configuration as well but instead of going to the rear it went to the heated seats. I wanted to make sure my car wouldn't burn to the ground (do a quick search on rs25 and you'll see what I mean) so I traced back all of the wires from the relay position. It is properly fused and runs on the same system as the accessory wires run on. This is a good thing because you could leave the switch on when your car is off and then remote start your car and the seat will be on (but stay off when the car is off). To see if you have the relay you're probably going to have to take off the glove box.

It is a pink base and the relay itself should be pink in a white holder. You're going to have to get a relay from a different car but it'll be easy to find. Just find any Subaru that has the pink coloured relay and you'll be fine. The only one's you can interchange with this relay on the RS are the ABS relays. They're the exact same.

Here is just the relay plug:


And here is where it should be around:




There is only one wire of concern to you coming out of that plug. It should be a blue wire that leads to a plug behind your passenger side kick panel. It is in the top position. You'll see the wire on one side of the plug but not the other. This is what I mean by half wired. This is your power wire for your seats. The plug pictured below is the one that will NOT have the blue wire in it. The matching plug to this one will. Also make sure you run the wiring with the rest of the wires. This was just for picture purposes. Don't leave it behind that bracket.

Last edited by 99 rs; 04-30-2008 at 12:24 AM.
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:10 AM   #59
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default

After you have lead the power wire to the seat area there should be 4 grounds. One for each switch and one for each seat:


Out of the very few wires I crimped (only wires such as this were crimped) I soldered the connection and then shrink wrapped the rest:




Eventually lead your wires up to the center console area and you have then have properly "factory equipped" heated seats:


I have to say right now I'm enjoying the heated seats the most. I highly recommend anyone who has WRX seats that doesn't have the heated part hooked up to do it.

Rigged up some cheapo JBL speakers for the front doors (the speakers were $25 from Best Buy on clearance brand new).

OEM speaker


JBL speaker


Door hole


They fit perfectly with the OEM mounting plate thing.
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:11 AM   #60
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default





Some stereo connections soldered. I don’t know why I took this picture.


Car at the alignment shop. Note: that alignment was done the very next time after we got the car running. I just recently found the pictures.




Finally got a hazard button that actually lights up at night. I’m working on the defroster light now. I don’t know why the pictures make the light bulb seem like its uneven light but it isn’t. In real life sitting in front of it the light output is constant.




99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:12 AM   #61
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default

Also started slowing my car down severely. I get a good deal on Dynamat so I did the trunk. I don’t care about the extra weight.










There is a drain for water that collects in your spare wheel well. That’s why I left the little patch in the middle open.



For winter I’m using a set of 2002 Legacy wheels which I bought over the summer. I got them powder coated by the same place that did my engine stuff. The only problem is you can’t powder coat plastic center caps. So I had to paint them myself with some good old $7.99 paint from the local shop. They don’t match very well but outside in the snowy conditions nobody has mentioned anything yet unless I point it out to them myself.

The car without center caps on




99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:13 AM   #62
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default



Said cheap $7.99 paint


My heater controls also broke. Position 4 and 2 stopped working on the fan control. So I took these pictures for anyone wanting to know what the back side of their controls look like. Possibly to do a color change or something. Don’t mind the remote starter in the background, that’s for a different car altogether.






I finally cleaned up the battery cable wiring. If you look back a few pages you’ll notice the ground wire running across the battery. This is because the ground on the WRX is at a closer point. I extended the ground to the OEM RS location and still made the WRX ground for double action grounding.




I started on fitting the WRX rear seat. There is a lot more work then people think to make it look clean and proper. Most people I see just bolt down the rear seat and leave the exposed foamy side in the trunk. So essentially the lazy man way. There are many many holes that you can attach the to WRX carpet pieces to the car. I just used some of those carpet clips to hold the pieces in place. They seem do be doing the job. I’m going to finish this later though.



Last edited by 99 rs; 09-01-2008 at 03:01 PM.
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:14 AM   #63
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default





I still have to adjust them inwards a bit. I also have to rig up some sort of backing plate so I can mount my amp to the back of the seat. Edit, the mounting plate for the amp is pictured later.


And like 90% of the people I’m cloning a proper GC. So with the front lip I’m one step closer.

Painted it with some $5 bumper coating black paint.








The white marks are just dust from powdered gloves.
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:15 AM   #64
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default





Install was a joke. The holes for the lip were already in my version of the bumper (others may not have it). The holes are just little squares that run along the edge of the bottom of the bumper.

**************************
Intercooler Shroud and Sprayer

This was more of a pain in the ass then I thought it was going to be. All I basically did was noted where the RS holes are for the shroud and drilled some holes in the WRX shroud.


Here you can see the shroud aims some air straight at the turbo.


Pointless picture


Here you can see the turbo a bit better through the grates. Note: the red line is still for the absent boost gauge (I later removed this line). I did however test my car by just holding a boost gauge with my hand inside the car. It read 14psi. I think that’s about on par with a 2002 WRX.


You can see the 3 drilled holes just to the inside of the normal mounting holes.


Here you can see an OEM screw in the one of the holes.


Same thing but on the other side.
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:16 AM   #65
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default

After those two were holding the shroud on I closed the hood and marked with a black felt where the other holes should be drilled.


You have to bend that sticking tab out of the way.


Here it mounted with the 5 bolts (the front middle is a plastic clip just like the RS)


There is even a perfect hole to run the squirter hose out of here.




To mount the squirters you have to make an odd shaped hole. It’s pretty much a circle with two notches on the side. The circle is 3/8 which can be easily drilled out. Then just use a hand file to make the square notches. This whole process take 15 minutes. 10 for the first hole, 5 for the next.




99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:17 AM   #66
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default

Here you can see the first squirter mounted. I have a slanty intercooler sprayer system but when I tested the nozzles they came out in a straight shot stream instead of a fan pattern. So instead I’m using two windshield washer squirters mounted sideways pointed towards each other.








The second one


Both mounted in the car


You also have to make a system of tubing to run them. Here you can see a proper 90 degree bend on the left and just a bent straight 90 degree bend on the right.


Notice the y splitter in the middle. Also notice the two other connecting pieces just in front of each nozzle. These two pieces are also on the windshield squirters put on there by Subaru. They are one way valves which don’t allow fluid to run backwards into the system. I guess it’s a fluid on demand type of thing. I know this is going a bit too far with trying to get stuff OEM but if I have the stuff to do it then why not.


The 90 degree bend and 45 degree bend leading to where the car hose will connect to.
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:19 AM   #67
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default

Both squirters mounted in the car with the shroud completely bolted up as a test fit. There is VERY LITTLE clearance between the top of the nozzle and the painted portion of the hood scoop. This is probably the main reason why the sti hood scoop is bigger (aside from larger size of course). There is literally no more room left to work with on the OEM RS hood scoop. It already pushes on the rubber tubing slightly.






And now that I’m done scratching the living crap out of the shroud I painted it to make it look good. In comes the bumper paint previously mentioned. In the picture the shroud is still wet which is why it looks patchy. It dried to a nice even coat.








The spray pattern of the sprayers. This is a dry piece of cardboard box.


This is after exactly 5 seconds of spraying
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:20 AM   #68
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default



You can see it doesn’t get the top portion of the intercooler very well. I imagine if I’m driving that the air will push the water backwards. So I’ll squirt the front portion of my I/C when I’m stopped and the back half when I’m driving. Problem solved.

Here is a quick video of the squirters in action. I quickly hooked them up to my windshield squirter line. I took this video while trying to push the spray button in the car and hold the camera so it’s coherent video. You can notice that the path of the water intersects nicely.




*************************

And now the horrendous part which I’m not happy about. If you don’t like seeing hack jobs look away …….now. I’m currently looking for a replacement panel and the OEM USDM sti bottle.

The bottle




This is the part I don’t like. To get the panel in there without completely breaking it you have to cut out a larger portion. And now you can see the metal work behind the bottle.






Note: the blue wire you see is for the amp turn on which doesn’t exist yet. It will get taken care of in due time when I mount all the finishing stuff.

****************************
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:22 AM   #69
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default

Stainless Steel Brake Lines

I bought these from tecnafit.com . The owner of the site is very helpful at any question that need to be answered. The quality of the actual lines are top notch; the fitment is neither here nor there. The c-clips and retaining clips are too small for the brake line holder and move around. So you have to bend the tabs yourself to fit. For the price they are ok though. I also bought a clutch line which is pictured later.








Those clips inside of the bag….inside of the bag are the one’s that don’t fit properly.



Undone brake line



OEM brake line



Two beside each other





SS brake line on (driver side front)
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:24 AM   #70
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default

SS brake line on (driver side front)



Passenger front on



Here is what the passenger side rear looks like (OEM one on still)


Then my hands were really dirty and I didn’t want to take any more pictures (to not dirty the camera) but you get the general idea.


Here is what the brake line looks like after 5000km’s



*******************************************

For complete randomness here are a few pictures with a crap load of snow and -40C (you can’t tell by the pictures but it was really really cold) temperatures we got here about a month and a half ago. The car handled everything without any hesitation or struggle.



Also notice how much snow there was. AWD is great.






99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:25 AM   #71
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default




*************************************

I completely fail on the boost gauge picture taking. There is really not much else to see. It’s a Prosport boost gauge. 52mm, lights up green at night and white during the daytime with flashing red for when you’re at peak boost. For the price I am very happy with it. It is however an extremely noisy gauge. Something on the inside is rattling and the assembly doesn’t fit into the mounting cup. The cup is too long for the gauge. They say to double sided sticky tape the back of the gauge to the back of the pod but the gauge doesn’t reach far enough. I made something work. The gauge read 14 psi when I’m at full throttle.

The pictures which don’t really show much:



I had to extend the wires a little bit. Make sure you shrink wrap all of your connections









OEM BPV hose line


Little bit farther away
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:26 AM   #72
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default

T’d the boost line in






Finished product



Random picture




**************************************

Because a number of people ask how to take out the OBD2 plug from the lower dash piece this picture shows where to do it. The little slot of where the plug goes into has a tab holding the plug in. Stick a small flathead screw driver into that slot and the plug pops right out. You only need to do it on one side since the other will come out when you tilt the plug.



*********************************

Glove box light

If you note back a few pages during the wiring section I mentioned that I pre-wired in a glove box light. Now to finish off the install. This is just one of those small features that I love having. I always throw little papers in the glove box and now it’s so much easier to see them.

Here you can see the cut out of where the light is supposed to go. This is the original RS glove box and I have made no modifications to it. Like most things on the RS Subaru “half” put the light in.
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:27 AM   #73
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default

Take a sharp knife and slowly cut the hole out. It’s easier then you may think to cut through this kind of plastic.



The hole



Here is what the actual light looks like (from a 2002 – 2005 WRX)



The striker in the cut out hole



From behind view



The already existing hole for the light bulb itself



Light in the hole



Assembly somewhat together


99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:29 AM   #74
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default




Connected to the wiring we did when we were doing the bulk of the wiring.



Here you can see the light on. It doesn’t look bright but it really does shine up the glove box



*******************************************

Short Shifter Install + Bushings

When we originally were finishing up the car we put the WRX shifter on. But after getting the dreaded shifter rattle that a few people complained about I decided to get rid of the WRX shifter and throw the RS one back on. While the RS one was out I added a few items to the whole package.

The nice and small package from Touge Tuning


Kartboy shifter, pivot bushings, rear stay bushing, front shifter bushing and the tranny cross member bushings






99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 02:30 AM   #75
99 rs
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 100994
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
Vehicle:
2005 Acura NSX-T
2007 Outback 2.5i

Default

Stock 99 RS shifter



Rear stay bushing



OEM on bottom, Kartboy on top


OEM on bottom, Kartboy on top


Note, to get the rear stay bushing out all you have to do is pull it off the end. It will give you some resistance but overall it’s pretty easy.


OEM front bushing



OEM on top, Kartboy on bottom


OEM is one piece, Kartboy is two piece



Kartboy bushing in place

Last edited by 99 rs; 04-30-2008 at 12:45 AM.
99 rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
A complete n00b's guide to changing the oil in your WRX (with pics!) perret318 Service & Maintenance 153 11-28-2013 01:17 AM
STi parts needed to complete kit, look inside RiSti05 Private 'Wanted' Classifieds 22 05-12-2009 04:00 PM
4EAT to STi gas pedal wiring guide Lamont Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline 0 11-28-2008 11:38 PM
GC RS to USDM WRX/STI wiring guide aspect Subaru Conversions 3 06-30-2008 11:12 PM
HELP-Need to find a wire for switched 12V inside the cabin....anyone know? dchou Electrical & Lighting 2 02-07-2007 09:13 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:04 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.