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Old 11-18-2010, 05:51 PM   #226
marcf
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according to the whiteline site, the COM-Cs give -0.5 camber and +0.75 caster

stock I could get nearly -1 camber front
in theory, I lose 0.77 from the D-specs, gain 0.5 from the COM-Cs
so I was hoping to get something like -0.75 front camber, which I may have accepted to avoid slotting, but the -0.28 I'm getting is puzzling, and will be useless for a daily drive/occasional trackday

I'll probably get another wheel alignment to see what I can get in the back, then have the back set to -1.1 (D specs + whiteline camber bolt in upper hole)
At least at that point it will be a boring 'safe' daily driver rather than bad camber all around= until I can get the front struts slotted

Just noticed on my old front struts (stock RS, 5 years old, lots of alignments):
The forward hole seems to be elongated down ~1mm and the rear hole seems to be elongated ~1.5mm inwards (toward the strut shaft)
Maybe this accounts for the extra camber I've lost, whether done on purpose or wear from so many wheel alignments
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:26 PM   #227
ezil71
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2003 WRX Wagon
after break in and further testing now at 4 5/8 front and 4 11/16 rear and its perfect
RCE Wagon springs, com C front, group N rear
13" and 13.25 rear, 14 driver front, 14.25 passenger front
Whiteline f/r 22 adj bars, WL solid endlinks f/r both bars set full stiff
17x7 +53 Prodrive P7's with 225/45/17 GY F1GSD3's (no rubbing)

Amazing the difference 1/8 or 1/16 of a turn can make!

Wil update with alignment when I get it redone. The shop did a terrible job, put the bolts for the front in the least camber position, and the ones for the rear in the neutral position (thanks to the camber bolt faq, I set the fronts and can feel the difference!)

Fixed the height issue by setting the bushing preload (although now the driver side f/r is 1/4 lower than passenger, close enough)

-1.3 front and -.7 rear - zero toe on stock front bolts

Last edited by ezil71; 02-05-2011 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:59 PM   #228
chimchimm5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcf View Post
I was baseing my plans off this image I found somewhere:
Showed losing 0.44 camber to the struts, but I seem to be losing more, closer to 0.7 or 0.8

I thought of a perfect solution a few weeks ago haha- manufacture D-specs in the wagon config- I'm sure sedan owners would love the extra camber (or could dial it out with camber bolts), and wagon owners would at least be starting at the same place, instead of 2 steps back

based on some quick calculations, if I want about another -1.5 camber available, I would need to slot the upper hole 1.7mm inwards
tan^-1 (1.7/65) = 1.49
we're getting way off topic here.. but I forgot to mention that I too am losing about 0.7-0.8 degrees as well. I get the feeling that your measurement is more correct than the picture.

What I found was that "2nd set camber bolts" provided -0.3 more camber than Com-C's with no other variables changed.

I agree... D-specs SHOULD be wagon spec. It would be another feature "extra neg camber". They don't have to mention the word "wagon". And sedan owners can always dial it back with the stock bolts. But alas, this will never happen. Tokico has no interest in this unless it's a defect. Maybe we should position it as a defect! Show that it's off spec... even for sedan... then during the "fix" they use the "wagon feature". Naaaahhh we're dreaming.
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Old 11-19-2010, 04:12 AM   #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chimchimm5 View Post
we're getting way off topic here..

I agree... D-specs SHOULD be wagon spec. It would be another feature "extra neg camber". They don't have to mention the word "wagon". And sedan owners can always dial it back with the stock bolts.
I just had an even better idea (that will never happen)
instead of subaru changing the struts to give wagons back the camber they need, why not make wagon specific hubs that have the offset built in :P

yeah... dreaming :P
then I could see wagon hubs in short supply as sedan owners buy them for the extra 0.7deg camber :P
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Old 11-19-2010, 03:54 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcf View Post
I just had an even better idea (that will never happen)
instead of subaru changing the struts to give wagons back the camber they need, why not make wagon specific hubs that have the offset built in :P

yeah... dreaming :P
then I could see wagon hubs in short supply as sedan owners buy them for the extra 0.7deg camber :P
This whole thing is in the past. There are viable (albiet less than idea solutions) out there and Tokico has no motivation for changing it.

Subaru has already "fixed" this problem with the current generation... by making both hatch and sedan have the same width. They want us to trade in to "fix" this problem.
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Old 11-20-2010, 05:45 AM   #231
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took mine in to a different shop today to see if I could get close to stock camber on the back (stock -1.1), taking into account the D-specs losing ~0.7 camber rear and the whiteline bolts being advertised as capable of +/- 1.75 camber, I should have had no problem getting back to stock, or even higher( close to -2 if I really wanted)

first shop set them to -0.28 (as per my instructions to match to the front settings)

second shop managed to get them to about 50 minutes (50/60 of a degree or -0.83)

Had a look under the car after and the washer is set to + camber adjustment, and the bolt is set to 'no adjustment' position, so it might as well not be a camber bolt..
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Old 12-06-2010, 03:31 PM   #232
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after tinkering with adjustments for 3 weeks.. i think i may have found the perfect setting for my car

all on a 2005 Forester XT:

4 TFFS - 4 1/4 TFFS (F-R)
RCE WRX Wagon Black springs
24mm Whiteline front swaybar
22mm Whiteline rear swaybar
Whiteline Front & Rear strut tower bars
Subtle Fender Braces
Subtle Trunk Brace
04 Sti Aluminum Control Arms
Whiteline Control Arm bushings
Whiteline Roll Center Adjustment Kit
05 Sti Aluminum Rear Lateral Links
stock top hats

stock FXT rims (16x6.5 +48) wrapped in 215/60/16 Blizzaks

0 toe all around.. -1.3/-1.0 camber F/R

ride is pretty dam comfy for the most part and handling is f**kin awesome

before this i was on stock wrx sedan struts with stock 06 sti springs.. that ride was HORRIBLE.. bouncy and bumps were way harsher than my setup now.. plus was on stock control arms and lateral links

Last edited by wordsarize; 01-28-2011 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:36 PM   #233
Bad Dogg
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OK, here goes.. Gurus chime in

2002 WRX wagon
17" Cobb CT-1 (technomagnesio) wheels - Yoko S.drives front, Krapmaster rears 225/45-17
TiC front cowl braces
Whiteline ALK and steering bushing
Whiteline Com C front
camber bolts rear
TiC klunk killer
Group N mounts (motor, pitch stop)
Kartboy shifter bushings
20 mm sedan rear sway (one of the first mods I did)
Prodrive blue springs
0 toe -1.5/-1.0 camber F/R 4 caster!

Running D-specs at 6 TFFS front and rear. Gurus care to comment (bigsky, arnie et al.?)

This is a daily driver, kid hauler. Rare track stuff. Ride seems more controlled than previously on stock struts. The alk, bushings and cowl braces have made a remarkable difference in steering feel and turn-in. Cornering much better, car handles mad tyte, y0!

Shout out to TiC for recommending such an outstanding setup!!!

So what recommendation for next mods???

Best,

H

Last edited by Bad Dogg; 12-17-2010 at 08:05 PM. Reason: alignment
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Old 12-18-2010, 01:58 AM   #234
trick3d
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Start dialing In on the adjustment front & rear. Use local roads and expansion joints bumps as a measure of necessary adjustment. Look up a thread done by TIC regarding how to dial ^In the suspension.
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Old 12-28-2010, 06:53 PM   #235
Bad Dogg
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Did do the dialing in as clint advised... This is where I ended up!! Seems to be working well
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Old 01-28-2011, 03:14 PM   #236
fugazni
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Every time I make an adjustment, I tighten the struts to full stiff beforehand, make my adjustment from there, and have noticed something strange. It never seems to be the same number of turns back to full stiff that it was when I initially made the adjustment. Has anyone else noticed this? Is it a problem?
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Old 01-28-2011, 03:25 PM   #237
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^^^good idea to return it to full stiff prior to adjusting. Mine seem to remain. Maybe something is lose?
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Old 01-31-2011, 04:29 PM   #238
fugazni
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The possibility occurred to me, but in all 4 struts?
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:09 PM   #239
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Maybe a silly question but for all you wagon guys out there with these struts, do i need Remote Adjusters for the rear?? Fastwrx.com has a awesome deal on these right now. Thanks
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:12 PM   #240
williaty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nastwgn View Post
Maybe a silly question but for all you wagon guys out there with these struts, do i need Remote Adjusters for the rear?? Fastwrx.com has a awesome deal on these right now. Thanks
Not required. If they were free, I'd take them and install them. However, I wouldn't pay a dollar for them in a wagon.
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:12 PM   #241
marcf
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not needed for wagons at all, you just open the boot, remove the caps and adjust with the tool
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:16 PM   #242
nastwgn
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Cool, i appreciate your answers. That is what i was looking for. I figured i didnt but i just wanted to make sure it was easy access for adjustment.
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Old 02-17-2011, 10:31 AM   #243
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After a couple months, the shocks did soften up a bit. Talked to Clint, this is expected. Things have settled in at 5 turns FFS front and 5.5 rear with Prodrive blue springs.

Also I do go all the way back to full stiff before tightening. I have also noticed that there has been slight shifts (perhaps 1/4 turn) since the initial settings, as noted above. Not sure why that would be..

Overall a bit of twiddling but a very nice choice!
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Old 02-19-2011, 05:29 PM   #244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back Road Runner View Post

If anybody wants a rough starting point for their D-Spec settings, look at "suspensioncalc.xls" on this forum. Then take the D-Spec dyno graph (again available on this forum if you don't have the manual lying around) and multiply by 9.81 to get the N/mm, mm/s values in the Excel spreadsheet.

Example:
3500 lb. car
58/42 weight distibution
250 lb/in front
200 lb/in rear

100% rebound dampening goal (stiff, starting point, and you will tune down from here)
Front rebound rate (at 0.3 m/s): 2600
Rear rebound rate (at 0.3 m/s): 1950

Divide by 9.81
Front (kg): 265
Rear (kg): 199

These are the numbers you look for on the D-Spec dyno graph at the 0.3 m/s point. It can be any point really as the D-Specs are pretty linear in rate. 0.3 m/s seems common.

On the dyno graph, you find this correlates to around 3 turns Front and 4 3/4 turns Rear.
So finally started trying to dial these in and I was referring to the above post on trying to find a suitable starting point but couldn't seem to find where the "100% rebound dampening goal" numbers came from. Anybody know? I'm sure I'm missing something here.

Anyhoo on to Specs:

2007 WRX Wagon

Installed:
Tokico D-Specs
RCE Blacks
Whiteline Com-C Top Hats

Other Suspension Goodies:
SPC Rear Camber Bolts
Cobb 25mm Front Tubular Sway Bars
Cobb 25mm Rear Tubular Adjustable Sway Bar
Cobb Adjustable Rear mounts
Perrin SLS
Paranoid Fabrications Saggy Butt Shims
Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's
Plus other various other bushings and bracing items (that I'm not supposed to list)

Aligment specs:
Front Camber: -1.3* (Maxed)
Rear Camber: -1.4* (had to add extra cause of my winter wheels)
Toe 0.00-0.01 all around (Took me a while to practically 0 out all 4 corners )
Caster: I can't remember the exact specs. I'll have to look at my printout but somewhere in the 4* range.

Right now have the Dspecs at:
Front: 3 TFFS
Rear: 4 TFFS

Feedback and thoughts would be appreciated
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:09 PM   #245
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after 6 pages i still could not find settings for swift springs on an 04 sti?

i have no idea what the spring rate of the swifts i bought but i bought the package from turn in concepts and have experimented in many different settings and have not found a setting i like yet, the performance is great.......anything to get rid of the rear clunk with the stockers was a plus but i really like the way the stock suspension felt, the d specs and the swifts did take out the bobblehead though.
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:18 PM   #246
03SubyWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetski247 View Post
after 6 pages i still could not find settings for swift springs on an 04 sti?

i have no idea what the spring rate of the swifts i bought but i bought the package from turn in concepts and have experimented in many different settings and have not found a setting i like yet, the performance is great.......anything to get rid of the rear clunk with the stockers was a plus but i really like the way the stock suspension felt, the d specs and the swifts did take out the bobblehead though.
285 lbs front, 275lbs rear.

Try 4.25 TTFS for the front, and 4.75 TTFS for the rear. I found this to be a great starting point.
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:48 PM   #247
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i'll give that a shot when i finish my engine. i'm sure i'll love the suspension more when i find the sweet spot.
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:19 PM   #248
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Hoping for a quick setting to start off:
2000 RS with engine/6MT swap
stock sway bar
P1 springs (215/195 F/R I believe)
needed spacers in the back
Group-N strut tops
Extra camber bolts in front, camber bolts at the back.

For reference, break-in setting should be 5TFFS (all around?)... hoping no snags so I get my car back end of day.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:12 AM   #249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
Actually, "turning up" the struts for competition is a retarded idea. There's one ideal setting for a given strut and spring combination. This is the minimum damping that fully controls body movement. Anything more than that is useless and may cost you grip. People who turn the struts up for competition are either just fooling themselves or trying to patch over another problem with their suspension that the rules prevent them from fixing.

I second this! I do however turn my struts one turn softer with my snow tires (taller side wall) on snow. Seems to settle in better with less 'skip'.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:14 AM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetski247 View Post
after 6 pages i still could not find settings for swift springs on an 04 sti?

i have no idea what the spring rate of the swifts i bought but i bought the package from turn in concepts and have experimented in many different settings and have not found a setting i like yet, the performance is great.......anything to get rid of the rear clunk with the stockers was a plus but i really like the way the stock suspension felt, the d specs and the swifts did take out the bobblehead though.
I would start with 4.5 turns from full firm in front and 5 turns from full firm in the rear and 'tune' from there!
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