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Old 05-20-2008, 06:30 PM   #26
williaty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flwrx View Post
2003 wrx 86k
4 turns front, 3 rear
prodrive springs (forget which ones)
hotchkis sway bars and endlinks, rear set at stiffest
sti bbs w/ 235/45/17 falken 452
-1.8 front
-1.0 rear
0 toe


Are you sure about that damping? The way you wrote that, you've got the front springs running less damping than the rears...
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Old 05-20-2008, 08:47 PM   #27
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And considering how soft the prodrives are that's a lot turns. I'd be thinking more around 5.5/6 tffstiff f and 6-6.5 rear. They're only 175lb springs all around.
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:16 PM   #28
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Since they're the same spring rate front and rear, wouldn't you want to start with the dampers at the same setting and only deviate from that if you wanted to make a subtle change to the handling balance?
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:29 PM   #29
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Since they are square rate but the weight distro is not 50/50 he can compensate a little by stiffening the front up a little more. Thats one thing I never liked about the ProDrives is they lowered the front by shortening the spring height AND not running a stiffer rate than the rears.
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:35 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuikWgn View Post
Since they are square rate but the weight distro is not 50/50 he can compensate a little by stiffening the front up a little more.
I'm not entirely sure this is true. But I'm not entirely sure it's not. On the one hand, the heavier end _is_ having to disappate more energy. On the other hand, because it's involving more energy and doesn't have stiffer spring rate, it'll be traveling over a longer stroke. So to dissapate the same amount of energy, it can use less force over a longer stroke. I'm going to have to harass a physics major when she signs onto AIM tonight.
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:51 PM   #31
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You know I kind of have a conflict here too now that I think about it more. More travel and less dampening means the piston travels faster over a longer range of motion. Less travel and higher dampening means the piston travels less distance but with more resistance. Both motions cause the strut to absorb the same amount of energy and the time of the event should be relatively equal. Which is better for the internals of the strut and which is better for the handling. Of course this would require both events to be free of outside influence like contacting the bumpstops etc.
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:38 PM   #32
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More travel and less damping (bearing in mind that this means the correct damping for the springs, not being underdamped) _should_ "feel" better (better ride) and also be more capable of soaking up bumps without causing the car to skip or spin. But to keep the damping and spring rate in line, you're going to end up with less spring rate per unit mass. This is going to be better for less-sticky tires.

More damping and less travel (again presuming correct amount of damping) should feel harsher but the car should feel faster on its feet (no guarntee it will be faster though). In the real world, it'll be less able to deal with bumps in the road without skipping or spinning. It's probably good for sticky tires on the race track though.

Both setups would have to absorb the same amount of energy over the same total time domain though (same car, same speed, same bump=same energy).

All in all though, I think that the conclusion is that equivalent spring rates need (nearly) equivalent damping regardless of the weight distribution of the car.
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Old 06-13-2008, 01:18 PM   #33
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2007 wrx 34k
4.5 turns front, 4 rear
Stock springs
adjustaable lateral links
stock wheels w/ 225/45/17 RE-01R's
-2.0* front
-1.5* rear
1* toe

Its a little stiff right now for DD..One of the main roads I am on is super bumpy. But other than that roads I like the way they feel. I have played with the Fronts a little since they are so easy to adjust but I've been kind of lazy with they rears.
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Old 06-13-2008, 01:49 PM   #34
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Anyone running Prodrive Red's on these?
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Old 06-13-2008, 02:37 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VA07WRX View Post
2007 wrx 34k
4.5 turns front, 4 rear
Stock springs
adjustaable lateral links
stock wheels w/ 225/45/17 RE-01R's
-2.0* front
-1.5* rear
1* toe

Its a little stiff right now for DD..One of the main roads I am on is super bumpy. But other than that roads I like the way they feel. I have played with the Fronts a little since they are so easy to adjust but I've been kind of lazy with they rears.
Yeah those settings are on the stiff side for stock wrx springs. Get the $30 remote adjusters. They make life much easier for you sedan guys.

Quote:
Anyone running Prodrive Red's on these?
The D-Specs are capable of handling spring rates well in excess of what the ProDrive Reds(STi fitment) offer. Won't be a problem.
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Old 06-13-2008, 03:35 PM   #36
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I know, I have both. I was just wondering what peoples setting were, if anyone's running that setup.
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Old 06-14-2008, 08:07 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mla163 View Post
Two autocrosses and I left the settings the same as street. I think I am at 5.75F 6.25R on STI takeoffs, but I am still breaking them in. I talked to a guy in D stock that said he turned his up to 1, but I don't think that's helping you much.
Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
Actually, "turning up" the struts for competition is a retarded idea. There's one ideal setting for a given strut and spring combination. This is the minimum damping that fully controls body movement. Anything more than that is useless and may cost you grip. People who turn the struts up for competition are either just fooling themselves or trying to patch over another problem with their suspension that the rules prevent them from fixing.
D stock = stock springs and only the front bar
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Old 06-14-2008, 10:53 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ButtDyno View Post
D stock = stock springs and only the front bar
Good point. I'm not used to the thought process of trying to break the car to meet the rules . I mod right first, then figure out what class that lands me in.

Could be why I'm in Mod in both AX and RX.
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Old 07-31-2008, 11:41 PM   #39
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gonna have d-specs on with sti pinks on my 07 wagon, suspension mods have f/r SB w/ endlinks and f/r struts. running with 225/45/17, wheels 17x8 48mm.

wondering wut setting on d-specs for DD and camber setting.

there are bumps and holes all around the place i live and work.
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Old 08-02-2008, 03:05 PM   #40
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Are you using the JDM STi Pinks or the SPT Pinks? Max and equalize your front negative camber, rear is not 'adjustable' w/o additional hardware and set toe to 0 all the way around.
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Old 08-03-2008, 02:14 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuikWgn View Post
Are you using the JDM STi Pinks or the SPT Pinks? Max and equalize your front negative camber, rear is not 'adjustable' w/o additional hardware and set toe to 0 all the way around.
SPT/USDM pinks, the struts (D-SPEC) im gonna put on will give me positive camber so i bought camber bolts and thinking to make it front -1.5 and leave the rear but i have an extra pairs of camber bolts, should i just put it in the rear and set it to -1.0?
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Old 08-03-2008, 07:11 AM   #42
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Tokico recommends you break in the struts @ approximately 5 turns from full stiff and with the SPT pinks you'll stay in this range +/- 1/2 turn. I was able to get up to -2.5* from my D-specs with afetermarket camber bolts in the front, so you might see more than the -1.5* you are expecting. I would suggest running the rear camber @ 75-80% of what you get up front. This will help a little with rear rotation without putting you into snap oversteer territory.
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Old 08-10-2008, 02:13 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuikWgn View Post
Tokico recommends you break in the struts @ approximately 5 turns from full stiff and with the SPT pinks you'll stay in this range +/- 1/2 turn. I was able to get up to -2.5* from my D-specs with afetermarket camber bolts in the front, so you might see more than the -1.5* you are expecting. I would suggest running the rear camber @ 75-80% of what you get up front. This will help a little with rear rotation without putting you into snap oversteer territory.
just get everythin one today, spent 4-5 hours in my friend's shop, we did slow and carefully.

finally, i like it soooo much, NYC road condition sucks but still, i dont feel too harsh at all. i set 5 turns all aroungd, no weird sound in the rear, increase some performance, reduce body roll, handle much better. i replaced after market camber bolts front and rear, my friend did the alignment manually and set them about -1.5 front and -1.2 rear and i think he really did a great job. but still i will go to some recommended performance alignment shop and do it again. i put 38psi front tires and 37 rear. the drop is exactly wut i want with pinks and d-spec, some drop to the front and rear no change. since my tophats still new so i will get a good one later. and on wagon, it just so easy to adjust the struts.

i dont drive crazy so i hope they are reliable too, i like them a lot and no want anything change
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Old 08-11-2008, 02:00 AM   #44
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Get the $30 remote adjusters. They make life much easier for you sedan guys.
What part is this you speak of?
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Old 08-11-2008, 02:09 AM   #45
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They attach to the tops of the rear struts and poke up between the rear seat and the parcel shelf. This allows you to adjust the rear dampers without having to remove the rear seat. Best place to buy them is Turn in Concepts
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Old 08-11-2008, 06:47 PM   #46
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They attach to the tops of the rear struts and poke up between the rear seat and the parcel shelf. This allows you to adjust the rear dampers without having to remove the rear seat. Best place to buy them is Turn in Concepts
Awesome...when I purchased my shocks these didn't exist. Buying them now.
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Old 08-21-2008, 08:07 PM   #47
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For you guys running the D-Specs with Whiteline Max-C camber plates, did you have to use TiC's deep nut?
http://www.turninconcepts.com/produc...roducts_id=550
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Old 08-21-2008, 08:44 PM   #48
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Yes. There's no other way to do it.
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Old 09-02-2008, 06:43 PM   #49
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2004 wrx 100k
5 turns front, 5 rear
Stock springs
stock wheels w/ 205/45/17 RE960AS PP
-1.5* front
-1.5* rear
0* toe all around

everything stock but the dampers. Yowza big difference from the (blown) stock units. I turned the fronts up to 4 today, but they're jiggling like the sidewalls are doing too much work, so I'm going to back it back down towards 5, and see what I get.

Remote adjusters for the back are nice, but I might not ever move them. 5 is pretty nice of a ride.

The firm dampers and soft springs give it a very EU feeling ride. Much like a sport-tuned BMW (but not the M versions, with their super-harsh spring rates). The biggest surprise was Hwy 85 from Mountain View, CA to Cupertino, CA. The pavement is rough, and tends to make most cars buck pretty bad. My 350Z is really rough over it. With the D-Specs, it's planted, you can feel the bumps, but they don't really move the car around at all. Just a constant "thapp-thapp-thapp-thapp", softly felt through the suspension.

Last edited by woody77; 09-05-2008 at 08:31 PM. Reason: fixed camber settings
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Old 09-05-2008, 03:46 PM   #50
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That's a good indication that you have the adjustment pretty close. Its not wallowing like the dampers are too soft nor banging like they are too stiff.
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