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Old 04-14-2008, 07:31 PM   #1
jsbush
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Default Can't remove axle nut.

I can't remove the axle nut on my LGT 2000. I've tried an impact gun, torching it, and using a 1/2 rachette with a sledge. It doesn't even budge.

Any idea's?
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:42 PM   #2
mikeyc
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Have you tried PB Blaster, or some other penetrating fluid? That's what I had to use when I recently did both front axles.

Of course, if its really bad, you could cut it off, which I've done before also - just notch the nut enough that it'll split a bit.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:44 PM   #3
jsbush
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I used lots of WD40. I was thinking of cutting it, but I'm worried about damaging the threads on the axle.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:51 PM   #4
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WD40's not a very good penetrating oil. It was originally intended for dispersing water. Try something like PB Blaster, and letting it soak for a day or so.

If you notch it just right, you won't hit the threads, but will weaken the nut enough that should come loose. Of course, you'll also end up with 2 notches in your hub (mine's been running like this for years and is still ok)

Why are you trying to remove the nut?
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Old 04-14-2008, 09:58 PM   #5
jsbush
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I'll try to find some PB Blaster and try it with that.

My assembly is loose. When I have the wheel on, I can move it in every direction like the lug nuts are really loose. I'm hoping by reseating the axle nut It'll help, if not i'm guessing its wheel bearings, but I have no noise when driving, just a loose steering.
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Old 04-14-2008, 11:26 PM   #6
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guys..... he said heating it up, thats way better than 100 cans of pb blast... If there is an axle nut pin, did you remove it? Also, if you heat it up to the point its glowing... it will come loose.
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Old 04-15-2008, 12:32 AM   #7
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If its a stock Subaru axle and axle nut, there's no pin. Also, heating it up will ruin the seals and possibly the wheel bearing itself.

Have you tried unstaking it first?
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Old 04-15-2008, 01:10 AM   #8
1320Fastback
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Put the wheel back on and lower the car to the ground just enough to keep the tire from rotating. Unstake the axle nut and get a 1/2" breaker bar with a 4' to -6' cheater bar (jack handles work well) and stand on it.
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Old 04-15-2008, 02:31 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1320Fastback View Post
Put the wheel back on and lower the car to the ground just enough to keep the tire from rotating. Unstake the axle nut and get a 1/2" breaker bar with a 4' to -6' cheater bar (jack handles work well) and stand on it.
done that in the past and worked really well
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Old 04-15-2008, 08:51 AM   #10
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If enough heat and and a breaker bar won't budge it, either notch it with a cutoff wheel or dremel or use a nut splitter.
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:56 PM   #11
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I ruined a snap-on 1/2 drive breaker bar by putting a big long pipe on it. I ended up borrowing a 3/4 drive breaker bar and socket to fit and put the pipe on THAT. No problem!

That was on a Mazda MPV, with the Subaru I was able to get away with the 1/2 breaker bar and about 18" of pipe and it came right off. My 1/2 drive impact driver wouldn't touch it.
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Old 04-16-2008, 12:59 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodrat View Post
I ruined a snap-on 1/2 drive breaker bar by putting a big long pipe on it. I ended up borrowing a 3/4 drive breaker bar and socket to fit and put the pipe on THAT. No problem!

That was on a Mazda MPV, with the Subaru I was able to get away with the 1/2 breaker bar and about 18" of pipe and it came right off. My 1/2 drive impact driver wouldn't touch it.
Thats what lifetime warranties are for
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Old 04-16-2008, 09:52 AM   #13
Tim Sanderson
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Get a better impact gun.
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Old 04-16-2008, 11:28 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Sanderson View Post
Get a better impact gun.
damn crapsman gun with a pancake air compressor wont bust my lugs off??? need help?? lol!

Get a big bar with a socket wrench.... Put a socket on it that wont break.. and pull like a mother
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:13 PM   #15
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yeah big breaker bar did it for me 3 footer and jump on it, or get 2 people to push on it, I've pulled 5 axle nuts this way.
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:25 PM   #16
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Last time I had to remove a really tight axle nut (it was on an Olds Intrigue), I first tried my impact gun, with no luck. Followed that with PB Blaster and the impact gun again, still nothing. Then I tried using my 18" long breaker bar, still no luck. So I added my 5' long cheater bar to my breaker bar and proceeded to break my breaker bar. Fortunately for me, it's a Craftsman, so I can get it replaced for free.

I wound up having to take my air hammer to it so I could cut the nut off. Had to replace the axle afterwards though, the threads were mighty chewed up by the time I got done with it.
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Old 04-21-2008, 01:32 PM   #17
jsbush
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Default got it

Finialy I got the axle nut off. I had to notch it, heat it, and bang it till it broke apart.

I tried a 2 foot breaker bar with a 6 foot cheater bar and the nut still wouldn't budge, the breaker bar ended up breaking. Good thing for lifetime warrenties.

Now, my hub assembly is loose. I'm not sure just putting on a new nut will solve the problem. Could it be wheel bearings?
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Old 04-21-2008, 02:04 PM   #18
Tim Sanderson
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Go the whole nine and replace the bearing and seals. How do the axle threads look? If they are wasted at all you should replace that axle.
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Old 04-22-2008, 09:41 AM   #19
tkrug21
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Default Could be wheel bearings.

I recently bought myself a press so I could do my own. What I found out was that the bearings touch each other in the center, so you can only tighten them so much. The inside steel races of each bearing actually meet in the center. The axle nut bears down on those two races, that is why you can tighten it so much without causing a bind. So once the bearings are worn to the point where they wobble, no amount of tightening that nut is going to help. You can't actually tighten the bearings any more because your limit is met when the two races meet in the center.
I found all this out the hard way, so I quit trying to "fix" the bearings, bought the press and just started replacing them.
Good Luck!
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Old 04-22-2008, 11:53 AM   #20
Tim Sanderson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkrug21 View Post
I recently bought myself a press so I could do my own. What I found out was that the bearings touch each other in the center, so you can only tighten them so much. The inside steel races of each bearing actually meet in the center. The axle nut bears down on those two races, that is why you can tighten it so much without causing a bind. So once the bearings are worn to the point where they wobble, no amount of tightening that nut is going to help. You can't actually tighten the bearings any more because your limit is met when the two races meet in the center.
I found all this out the hard way, so I quit trying to "fix" the bearings, bought the press and just started replacing them.
Good Luck!
Well done sir. Nice explanation.

btw, you will find that the press is so very useful. I love mine.
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Old 04-22-2008, 03:30 PM   #21
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In case someone searches and finds this thread...

The trick is to have a friend stand on the brakes. There's enough give in the drivetrain that when you try to turn the nut, the force is absorbed through the gears and whatnot. With the rotor locked in place, the force will be concentrated on the nut. I was using a 6 foot pipe and trying to break an axle nut loose on a FWD car and actually lifted the tire off the ground I was using so much force. When I had someone stand on the brakes I was able to break it loose with just a breaker bar. This method has worked great every time I've used it.
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