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Old 03-07-2011, 12:02 AM   #201
wrx wagone
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Did you weigh the drivetrain before it went in?
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Old 03-07-2011, 07:04 AM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedyHAM View Post
I've never weighed my car with everything stripped out of it. The minimum I've run at an event with enough gas to make it around the course was 206x.
I'd be tickled to come in at 206x lbs ready to run!

Quote:
Seat and harness are about 30 lbs, fuel system is about 40 (unless you are going with a fuel cell), electrical system is around 15-20 depending on your choice of wire sizes, fuel is dependent on if you are running a fuel cell. I figured out last year I had 63 pounds of fuel essentially ballasting the rear of the car, below that level in the tank I couldn't get through a course without fuel starve.
I'm using a 3 gal cell mounted just behind the rear subframe, just under where the trunk floor would be and as far right as I could feasably get it. The initial weigh-in showed a huge front bias, which made the decision to put it back there a no brainer. Battery may go right next to it, but I wanna ponder the benefits of wiring weight first.

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You should come out pretty close to 2050 depending on fuel level.

I'm aiming for a bit lower than that for this year.
I sure hope so....for both of us!

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Old 03-07-2011, 07:04 AM   #203
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Originally Posted by wrx wagone View Post
Did you weigh the drivetrain before it went in?
There is a component weight thread somewhere in the archives.....


Jay
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Old 03-07-2011, 07:14 AM   #204
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I hear ya on the limited $$$ to work with. The motor build is eating up a big part of what I already don't have to spend. I'm planning on going to a .380" non-vented 2pc rotor setup with Wilwoods up front to shave a good amount of weight off the front. I can't do a whole lot with my seat setup given the difference in physical stature between my codriver and I. I think it weighs 20lbs complete as is. I'm trying to find a deal on a DSS alloy driveshaft as I know carbon is just not in the budget right now. I'm somewhat considering how much more the front axles can stand to give up in articulation and move the motor/trans back a bit, but I'm not sure what my limit will be first. Header to subframe or axle joints Then the driveshaft would have to be custom made.....

I have a plan on a lightweight drivetrain, but it would also eliminate AWD too. Not ready to go there just yet.

Jay
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Originally Posted by speedyHAM View Post
Currently 1900 lbs is my minimum weight for XP. I'm starting to get pretty close, but $$$ is the big limitation right now.

On the list of things to do for added lightness are:

Carbon Fiber doors, Driveshaft, trunklid, rear bumper, tail lights, intake.
Aluminum 4pot/ 2pot brakes (probably Willwood's).
Lighter driver's seat and mounting brackets.
Lighter suspension bits- more than likely custom one off units made by me.
Engine internals? This may be stretching it a bit, but there isn't much weight left to be removed.

If I did all of those items I'd be well under 1900 lbs with a full tank of fuel ready to go, so I'd have to add ballast where I need it, like in the rear passenger area to even out the weight balance.
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Old 03-07-2011, 10:35 AM   #205
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hollow cams, billet crank, ti rods (working on some actual affordable ones $600'ish), etc...but as said none are cheap.

CNC skim of the block, heads and trans would shave some weight too but once again takes an expensive machine to do that. Really cool what some of the new 5-axis mills designed for headwork can do!!

Are you just making carbon skins for your own doors? A little foam or honeycomb for rigidity and a latch mount
Making a roof skin should be easy enough in the off-season or if you have a spare roof panel (junkyard).
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:25 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
hollow cams, billet crank, ti rods (working on some actual affordable ones $600'ish), etc...but as said none are cheap.

CNC skim of the block, heads and trans would shave some weight too but once again takes an expensive machine to do that. Really cool what some of the new 5-axis mills designed for headwork can do!!

Are you just making carbon skins for your own doors? A little foam or honeycomb for rigidity and a latch mount
Making a roof skin should be easy enough in the off-season or if you have a spare roof panel (junkyard).
$600ish for a set of rods doesn't sound that bad for removing rotating mass and improving strength.

The doors will be carbon-honeycomb-carbon similar to my hood. They will also have a little structure behind them to provide stiffness and hold the hinges and latch mechanism I'm going to use.

I can't replace the roof in XP. If I could it would already be done as it 13 lbs of weight savings as high up as it gets.
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:33 PM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
hollow cams, billet crank, ti rods (working on some actual affordable ones $600'ish), etc...but as said none are cheap.

CNC skim of the block, heads and trans would shave some weight too but once again takes an expensive machine to do that. Really cool what some of the new 5-axis mills designed for headwork can do!!

Are you just making carbon skins for your own doors? A little foam or honeycomb for rigidity and a latch mount
Making a roof skin should be easy enough in the off-season or if you have a spare roof panel (junkyard).
$600 for Ti rods? Sign me up.
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Old 03-07-2011, 10:40 PM   #208
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$600 for Ti rods? Sign me up.
Probably $600, each...... It'd be somewhat within reach otherwise.

Jay
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Old 03-08-2011, 03:43 PM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm View Post
Probably $600, each...... It'd be somewhat within reach otherwise.

Jay
nope, I didn't stutter...per set of 4. It's cast grade 5, which if you know about ti 6al-4v, it doesn't lose much when cast but you save $$$$$ over billet.

Still trying to work out pricing on a various number of test sets. Oh the joys of bargaining
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:24 PM   #210
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In that case, color me interested!

Jay
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Old 03-09-2011, 05:05 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm View Post
I hear ya on the limited $$$ to work with. The motor build is eating up a big part of what I already don't have to spend. I'm planning on going to a .380" non-vented 2pc rotor setup with Wilwoods up front to shave a good amount of weight off the front. I can't do a whole lot with my seat setup given the difference in physical stature between my codriver and I. I think it weighs 20lbs complete as is. I'm trying to find a deal on a DSS alloy driveshaft as I know carbon is just not in the budget right now. I'm somewhat considering how much more the front axles can stand to give up in articulation and move the motor/trans back a bit, but I'm not sure what my limit will be first. Header to subframe or axle joints Then the driveshaft would have to be custom made.....

I have a plan on a lightweight drivetrain, but it would also eliminate AWD too. Not ready to go there just yet.

Jay
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:46 AM   #212
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Quote:
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In that case, color me interested!

Jay
well, I'm just waiting on a return quote for my frist 3 sets of rods per my dimensions.
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:33 PM   #213
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I finished my new uppipe over the weekend. This removes a lot of flow restrictions in the header to uppipe flange areas and saves about 2 lbs in flanges. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.





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Old 03-16-2011, 07:24 AM   #214
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Looks good Sean. Anything to get weight off the front end, eh?

Jay
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:31 AM   #215
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so when are you going to take the die-grinder to the block and start skimming weight? Start grinding off non-essential pieces of the block and head

chuck the front axles in a lathe and taper them. We all know that subies are easy on the front axles. It's the rears that snap.
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Old 04-03-2011, 07:18 PM   #216
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Piping looks great. Are you worried about flex cracking? I have a solid up pipe and it cracked my header flange. Of course you have eliminated the flanges. Since then I have upgraded to group n mounts, so I should be good. Hopefully.
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Old 04-03-2011, 10:15 PM   #217
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I have not had a flex pipe in the header/ uppipe in 4 years with no cracking issues. If it does crack I'll just fix it (or maybe make it better).
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Old 04-03-2011, 11:27 PM   #218
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Update-

Moving suspension geometry around is fun.









And the new (bigger) wing is on. This one is almost big enough, I'm still waiting on news about some bigger elements that may be coming out this summer.



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Old 04-04-2011, 06:52 AM   #219
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This is the next point where I'm headed in regards to the subframe and moving the pivot points up. Did you go up about 1.5"?

Nice job as always Sean!

Jay
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:58 AM   #220
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Are you shortening the trailing arm too?
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Old 04-04-2011, 02:12 PM   #221
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Im not sure if subframes are allowed to be custom but if you check out dirtyimpreza.com theres a fabricator "jacksonrally" I believe. He makes custom lightweight tubular replacement subframes for the GC.
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Old 04-04-2011, 02:40 PM   #222
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^^a few places do.
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Old 04-04-2011, 02:54 PM   #223
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And the new (bigger) wing is on. This one is almost big enough, I'm still waiting on news about some bigger elements that may be coming out this summer.



OH MAN!!! This is so awesome. I love huge wings that have purpose! Seriously, lovin it!!
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Old 04-04-2011, 03:53 PM   #224
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I need to find out what falls under "modified" and just short of "replacement" in regard to subframes. I believe you can use the tublar units in XP. For the other P classes, it's out for member comment, and in CP only (presumably only the front as well).....

Jay
Quote:
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Im not sure if subframes are allowed to be custom but if you check out dirtyimpreza.com theres a fabricator "jacksonrally" I believe. He makes custom lightweight tubular replacement subframes for the GC.
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:21 PM   #225
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In XP you can replace subframes with anything you want. I'll probably be going with tubular subframes someday when I have the time to build them myself.

I am going up 1.5" in the rear and 0.8" in the front. I will also be using the whiteline RCA kit and I'm going to move the steering rack up 0.8 to help with the steering. Keep in mind that if you move the suspension pick up points and don't move the steering rack or otherwise correct the steering geometry your bump steer will be all out of whack.
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