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Old 04-29-2008, 10:51 PM   #1
DjSTI823
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Default sti oil question

Im stage 2 due for an oil change I want to try out castrol syntec. I used to use mobil-1 5-30(factory). I am wondering if I should change the viscosity or weight of the oil? I am planning on doing a lot of autox so will this be adequate? Also what oils are people getting good results with in their stage 2s? Thanks.
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:55 PM   #2
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First you should probably fill out your profile so we know where you live, i could recommend a 5-40 weight but if you live in Antarctica that wont work well, or i could say a 5-20 weight but if your in the Mohave that wouldnt work either.

For doing auto-x i would recommend a Castrol Full synthetic 0w-30 weight oil, available at auto zone. Depending on how hard you run the car you could do a 5-40 or if your easy on it 5w30.
I use castrol full synthetic in my own car, 0w30 at stage 2 and LOVE it.
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Old 04-30-2008, 01:25 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosecakes View Post
First you should probably fill out your profile so we know where you live, i could recommend a 5-40 weight but if you live in Antarctica that wont work well, or i could say a 5-20 weight but if your in the Mohave that wouldnt work either.

For doing auto-x i would recommend a Castrol Full synthetic 0w-30 weight oil, available at auto zone. Depending on how hard you run the car you could do a 5-40 or if your easy on it 5w30.
I use castrol full synthetic in my own car, 0w30 at stage 2 and LOVE it.
0w30 damn
well i live in nevada so its very hot and dry
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Old 04-30-2008, 01:46 AM   #4
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well, the castrol 0w30 (commonly known as German Castrol) is an European oil. it is def. not the same as a Mobil 1 30 weight.

The commonly available Mobil 1 isn't a true syn, although their 0w40 is (which is why it's the specified Porsche factory fill, and why it isn't available in the 5qt. jugs)

German Castrol is a full syn as well, and it has quite a following. from what I hear, it's close to a 40 weight by North America standard.

IMO, any common 30 weight oil is just thin for the turbos, especially in hot weathers.
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Old 04-30-2008, 07:48 AM   #5
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I run amsoil 10w40
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Old 04-30-2008, 11:03 AM   #6
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I've been running Royal Purple 5w40 for quite some time now and no consumption and is a good year round oil for my location. You'll definitely want to use a 40 weight oil, being in NV.
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Old 04-30-2008, 11:18 AM   #7
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I was thinking about switching from mobil 1 5w-30 because i go through a quart of oil ever 750-1000 miles what would be my best alternative?
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Old 04-30-2008, 11:24 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by tico915007 View Post
I was thinking about switching from mobil 1 5w-30 because i go through a quart of oil ever 750-1000 miles what would be my best alternative?
Preferrably a 40 weight oil. M1 disappeared quickly in my STi. Once I switched weights, I haven't had a problem with comsumption since.
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezilization View Post
well, the castrol 0w30 (commonly known as German Castrol) is an European oil. it is def. not the same as a Mobil 1 30 weight.
And German Castrol is not the same as any other Castrol available in the U.S. (except for relabled BMW oil). I've seen uoa's on Syntec 10W40 and it sheared down to a thinner viscosity than my runs on GC at 7,500 miles.

-Dennis
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Old 04-30-2008, 04:01 PM   #10
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We have many forums here, this is NOT the oil forum. Moving....
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Old 05-02-2008, 05:35 AM   #11
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Im considering running amsoil if I can get a deal on it.
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Old 05-02-2008, 10:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DjSTI823 View Post
Im considering running amsoil if I can get a deal on it.
In LV, I think I would go with the Euro 5W40 in a STI. Here's a "Which Amsoil?" thread .

If you order from the web site, it's probably cheapest to become a Preferred customer for 6 months and purchase a 1 year supply of oil (a case?).

-Dennis
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Old 05-02-2008, 10:55 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezilization View Post
...The commonly available Mobil 1 isn't a true syn...
Wait, they are not group IV anymore?
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Old 05-02-2008, 12:47 PM   #14
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Wait, they are not group IV anymore?
Nope, hydrocracked.
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Old 05-02-2008, 03:58 PM   #15
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Hold on now. I enjoy M1 bashing but let's set the facts straight.

A couple of years ago, a lab in NJ using gas chromatography, tested some of the Extended Performance Mobil 1's. This was not an "official test" but merely curiousity. According to his findings, the EP oils tested contained Group III hydrocracked base stocks. I don't think other M1 oils were tested, but I'm not sure. It's all on bitog somewhere.

The emails and phone calls to XOM started flying and they never really answered the question directly. Only something along the lines of "our oils contain PAO's" or "that is proprietary information". That just instilled further doubts in people's minds.

So some M1 oils may be Group III's. Now back to the Mobil1 bashing.

-Dennis
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Old 05-02-2008, 05:44 PM   #16
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I'm confused (obviously), I thought M1 (previously aka "synthetic" now "Extended Performance") were 100% "group IV" (goes beyond just saying "synthetic" and getting highly processed mineral oil).

I just want what I am led to beleive I'm paying for otherwise I'd use Walmart Supertech (group III).

Amsoil is the only 100% group IV motor oil?
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Old 05-02-2008, 07:14 PM   #17
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The BITOG member who ran the GC scan on the M1 was a person extremely experienced in reading GC spectra of motor oils and motor oil components. He was subject to extreme negative fallout over the information he shared there. M1 definitely uses components other than (just) Group IV and Group V in their base oil blends. Amsoil also uses components other than pure Group IV. They'll be using a Group V for seal compatibility and additive solubility. They wouldn't have to call the Group V a base oil component if they didn't want to. They could perfectly legitimately call it an additive if its primary function is as a correction fluid (like for seal compatibility, additive solubility, etc.).

The ONLY way to be sure you're getting 'what you pay for' is to:
1) Determine precisely what it is you're paying for,
and
2) Verify through some kind of analysis that you're getting that.

Are you paying for a base oil group number? Is that what you really want to be paying for? Or do you really want to be paying for performance, but you're just _presuming_ that a certain base oil group number will give you that?

If what you really want to be paying for is performance (that's what I want to be paying for), what kind of performance? Absolute maximum longevity/durability, or only 15,000 - 150,000 miles worth? Absolute maximum power output, or only within the context of a certain minimum amount of durability? You see how it's all a trade-off?

If you are only paying for a group number, buy some, pay for a GC trace, AND pay for someone who reads fully-formulated motor oil GC traces regularly, preferably for a living, and then you'll know whether you're getting what you paid for. BTW, the GC techs at a university do NOT qualify as expert in reading motor oil traces. You almost have to have an industry person read it for you (good luck).
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