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Old 05-30-2008, 03:17 AM   #1
CharT
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Default Two hours to press front wheel bearings?

After being inspired by the wheelbearing thread in the suspension forum and having gotten fed up with brakepad knockback, I decided it was time to replace my front wheel bearings. Removing the suspension knuckles was a real adventure but the information on NASIOC helped me through as usual.

After removing the knuckles, I cleaned and dropped them off at a local shop on my way to work. I get a call later in the afternoon telling me that they're done. The shop tells me it's two hours labor, or $170. I was very surprised as all my research has indicated that pressing the bearings out/in was a quick job, especially for a shop that specialized in Subarus. I asked if there was anything wrong with my parts and they said everything was fine. I spoke with the technician that did they work and he explained that it took a long time to set up the press and to ensure that the bearing goes on straight. I don't mind paying to have the job done right, but is two hours of labor reasonable for pressing bearings?
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Old 05-31-2008, 12:03 AM   #2
DCales
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I would not be to concerned with the labor charges. I have pressed many bearings during my years as a tech and some can be a major pita. I would imagine that if they did the full job inluding removing both knuckles they would have charged 5 or 6 hours. I had a saturn wheel bearing explode while installing it using a Hub shark tool and it hit me square in the face... so the money spent is well worth it.
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Old 05-31-2008, 04:47 AM   #3
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I did a bearing with a Ford tech at a dealership one day, just a single side, but he didn't have the right dies and had no clue how the thing was supposed to come apart.

Still took him less than 30 minutes to remove and reinstall one side, and again, he was 100% clueless as to how to do it.

/Brox
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Old 05-31-2008, 10:24 AM   #4
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Perhaps they have a 1-hour minimum charge?
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Old 05-31-2008, 01:01 PM   #5
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^^ this. But in most cases it should be an hour or less. There are some times the hard ones that nothing goes wrong but just are stubborn and take a long time. $170 does seem stiff to me, but when it is all said and done, it is DONE.
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Old 05-31-2008, 04:27 PM   #6
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understand that they do not generally charge extra when it is difficult to remove except in extreme cases. This is the way the flat-rate world works, just cause yours take a half hour doesn't mean thats what they charge. The idea is that while yours may take a half an hour someone else's will take an hour and a half this way the pay is "relatively" fair for the tech. also just because hes a great tech and can do the job faster does not mean that he should get less money because it took him less time.

2 hours does seem a little high, but not outrageously.

also disregard the ford comparison, as different manufactures do things VERY differently.
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Old 06-01-2008, 10:49 PM   #7
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I guess the lesson learned here is for me to get multiple quotes upfront, but since this was a reputable Subaru shop who builds Subaru race cars, I figured the job will be done right. I was rushed on my way to work and, as flstffxe says, atleast it's DONE! I just don't like the feeling of being taken advantage of; or even the suspicion of it.

My final thing to do is find someplace to press in the front lateral link bushings off the car. Then the entire car goes back together and on the road again!
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Old 06-01-2008, 10:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharT View Post
My final thing to do is find someplace to press in the front lateral link bushings off the car. Then the entire car goes back together and on the road again!
Which bushing do you really mean as there officially isn't a front lateral link.
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Old 06-01-2008, 11:25 PM   #9
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I'm not sure what they're called officially, but there are two sets of lateral links in the rear suspension. One set has the swaybars attached and they are more towards the rear of the car, so I call that set the rear lateral links. The front lateral links that I'm referring to don't have the endlink mounts and are mounted forward of the other.

There are four lateral link bushings that came with the Subaru sport suspension kit. Two of them are in a single bag marked Bush B and the other two are individually packed, labelled Bush A. I got these bushings nearly 3 years ago as a reward for helping someone install his swaybar. Must be some kind of record to finally installing these things.

He also gave me four metal bushings(20166FE100) labelled "Pipe MTG (Bush)." Those look impossible to install so I'm not even going to try. Maybe I'll find somebody that wants them as I can't believe anybody would pay Subaru $22 a piece for these paperweights.
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Old 06-01-2008, 11:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharT View Post
I'm not sure what they're called officially, but there are two sets of lateral links in the rear suspension.
Ah, then you actually used the right words. Since you had been talking about front wheel bearings, it seemed to follow logically that you were still talking about the front end of the car.

As far as getting those bushings in, take a look at this handy dandy tutorial on how to do it
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Old 06-02-2008, 02:08 AM   #11
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Thanks for the link! You did a tremendous job on that tutorial. As it turns out, I happen to have the "taco link" but without the cheese dip, hehe. As I don't plan on doing this more than once, I'm debating whether I should buy the Harbor Freight press or have a shop do it. The cost will probably come out about even unless I do more bushings later on.
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Old 06-02-2008, 02:11 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharT View Post
Thanks for the link! You did a tremendous job on that tutorial. As it turns out, I happen to have the "taco link" but without the cheese dip, hehe. As I don't plan on doing this more than once, I'm debating whether I should buy the Harbor Freight press or have a shop do it. The cost will probably come out about even unless I do more bushings later on.
You can "rent" that press at Advanced Auto (and probably every autoparts store). You just ask for the loaner ball joint press and look inside the box to make sure what they give you looks like the picture. You give them the full purchase price of the tool, then they refund the entire amount to you when you return the tool.

If you have the taco link, it's REALLY worth upgrading.
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Old 02-12-2009, 11:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
You can "rent" that press at Advanced Auto (and probably every autoparts store). You just ask for the loaner ball joint press and look inside the box to make sure what they give you looks like the picture. You give them the full purchase price of the tool, then they refund the entire amount to you when you return the tool.

If you have the taco link, it's REALLY worth upgrading.
Thank GOD for Auto Zone's rent-a-tool deal, I'm changing a bent traverse link out this weekend. Only $133 gets me the tool for the weekend. I'll take some pictures and put them up here to help anyone who would like a better visual guide than the tech manual.
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Old 02-13-2009, 07:58 PM   #14
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I think 170 is a lot, I bought a press and everything I needed for less than 170!
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Old 02-15-2009, 07:10 PM   #15
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2 hours is crazy. If you have a press and the right size dies you can do a side in 15 minutes.

Tony
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Old 02-16-2009, 12:22 PM   #16
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It took me about 2 hours and I dont have a press. Just a large vise and alot of improvisation. But again it is done and done right as opposed to mine which im sure is a bit wanked from the medieval method I employed.
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Old 02-16-2009, 03:28 PM   #17
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the hard part is getting them out. The suby manual says inorder to remove the inner race, you have to cut it. This can be a gigantic pain, as I did it this way the first time I did bearings. I gave that shat up and bought one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3979. This was $15, plus a harborfrieght shop press on craigslist for $50, I only spend $75 for the proper tools.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=33497This is the press I have, 12 ton for bearings is an absolute MINIMUM.
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:18 AM   #18
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Which manual says you have to cut the race out? None I have.

My manual also says that no more than 3 tons should be used to press the bearings in, so 12 ton is overkill.
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:37 AM   #19
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FWIW, I know its not a suspension part, but I used to press out/in new bearings into pumps for jet ski's. I was a "new" mechanic and still could replace 2 bearings in less than half an hour.
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:41 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wobbletop View Post
Which manual says you have to cut the race out? None I have.

My manual also says that no more than 3 tons should be used to press the bearings in, so 12 ton is overkill.
You don't actually apply all 12 tons of force to the bearing. You simply use the amount of pressure necessary to get the bearing to seat where it's supposed to.
Having the ability to use 12 tons of pressure is handy depending on what you're working on.
We had a 50 ton press at work.
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Old 02-19-2009, 04:41 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wobbletop View Post
Which manual says you have to cut the race out? None I have.

My manual also says that no more than 3 tons should be used to press the bearings in, so 12 ton is overkill.
yea, sorry, the suby manual says "use a suitable tool". I was thinking of the factory manual for my sisters minivan, says to cut the inner race. It's stupid, don't do it.

The bigger the press, the easier it is on the installer. with the 12 ton hydraulic, i was working a little hard toget it to press. A 50 ton would be even easier.
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Old 01-13-2010, 03:13 AM   #22
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Bump for wicked slick info.

I need to know a few things here.

1. All one needs is a press and a large bearing separator?

2. Does the press really have to be 12tons? I mean a 5ton press should suffice, no?

3. Is it real easy to **** up a bearing while putting it in? They tend to cost over 50 for just 1 hub.
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Old 01-13-2010, 04:59 AM   #23
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My friend Scott and I changed a wheel bearing in my impreza in like 10-15 minutes after getting the hub out. And yes, you do not have to cut the inner race, you can get a race seperator at most auto parts stores, they are like reverse pliers. Another thing is that a 12 ton press or a little larger is better because of the height available to work with.

If you want a good press for doing bushings and such, using a 2 ton press I believe is sufficient.
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:57 PM   #24
Dirty B Racing
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I have a 2.5rs
I am very frustrated I had my rear wheel bearing replaced at a shop 2 years ago, and now there so much play im scared to drive it. Does anybody have any suggestion on high performance bearings so maybe they will last longer then two years?
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Old 04-12-2011, 02:13 AM   #25
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I've always used timkens with good success.. Perhaps some debri during installation got into the bearing? I had an instance of the little spring for the seal getting sucked into the bearing, and after 2yrs destroyed it..
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