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Old 06-23-2008, 04:07 AM   #1
rabbitnutz
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Default i'm overwhelmed, and could use some help.

(this might be a long read)

so i have an ultra basic subwoofer set up for my car, consisting if an MTX 10" sub, and a matching MTX amp. i don't know wattage offhand, but the long and short of it is, i'll be using these two things together.
i bought these second hand, and they came with wiring for the install. i quickly ran the wiring through the car, and connected everything to test it out, and it worked fine. being the lazy person i am, i left it as is for a couple..well months. during these months my power wire and it's built in fuse holder somehow became corroded, and i keep blowing fuses in my power wire. as well as this, i have noticed my lights dimming when the sub hits. relying on what little knowlage i possess, i belived i needed to upgrade my wiring (to solve corrosion issue) and get a cap. (to solve dimming issue)

i went out and got a wiring kit that included a half farad cap. it included a new battery terminal, fuse holder and fuse, cap., and all the needed wiring and connectors.

now here are my questions...

~does the cap. always draw on the battery? (if so, how do i prevent this?)
~along the lines of the cap. instructions say i need to charge it with a provided resistor.. if this ting drains my battery and i somehow manage a disconnect, will i need to charge it everytime i reconnect?
~ after some searching, (and sticky reading!) i found the "big 3 mod" but not clear instructions as to what it is, and how to do it... anyone have any clue about this?

ugh, i feel like such a n00b right now, this simple wiring upgrade got a whole lot more complicated.

thanks in advance,
Nick
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Old 06-23-2008, 08:57 AM   #2
punk
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Clean your battery terminals, make sure your grounds are securely connected to bare metal, run your wires correctly, set the gains (and other settings) on your amp appropriately. If you still have issues, look into the big 3. THROW THE CAPACITOR IN THE TRASH.

edit: Here is lots of info on the big 3 and how to do it: Big 3 Upgrade
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Old 06-23-2008, 11:43 AM   #3
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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1. a cap does not always draw on the battery, it charges and discharges in mili-seconds (part of the reason they are used), once it's charged there "shouldn't" be any draw from it..

2. I've never once used the charging resistor to charge any of the caps I've used... I just deal with the large spark every time I connect the battery.. A cap is designed to charge in mili-seconds, so "why" do I need the resistor again??? lol

3. the big three, is used to upgrade the major grounds in the car, battery to chassis, motor to chassis, and dam, what's the third again.... lol.. .

I've got more reading for you, topics are on the right side of the page... get to work, much to learn, young skywalker... http://www.bcae1.com/
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Old 06-23-2008, 02:59 PM   #4
Rayman21287
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^ Pos alt to pos batt isn't it?
Although, that's not exactly a ground huh?

Ron
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Old 06-23-2008, 03:48 PM   #5
AVANTI R5
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How big is your amp??I would think your car should handle it,if it's not real big.Anyway,is your battery in good shape(age wise) also is your alternator good,might want to check it to see if it is putting out.I think autozone or the other one does it for free.Can't hurt to have it checked,for free.
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Old 06-23-2008, 06:27 PM   #6
joe z
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nick if you ever need any help just give me a call i think you have my number.. maybe the next time your up in this area i can check it out for you..

i would guess you don't need a cap if you are just running the one amp.. but it wouldn't really hurt any thing having it in there.. what gauge wire did you have and what do you have now??
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Old 06-23-2008, 07:29 PM   #7
OG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
I've got more reading for you, topics are on the right side of the page... get to work, much to learn, young skywalker... http://www.bcae1.com/
Nice link. IMO, that should be required reading for anyone who owns or is considering aftermarket audio equipment for their car.

As punk said get rid of the cap. It's just another possible point of failure or noise and there is no way you need it.
Fix your crappy wiring and set the gain properly and you should be in good shape.
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Old 06-23-2008, 08:40 PM   #8
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Aaron, you need to specify what type of cap you are referring to. Although the cap itself won't drain the battery (many times there is a small milli amp draw) the ESR of the cap can create voltage drops which do affect the systems performance. Granted...a couple of tenths won't make a huge difference for many people there are the caps (carbon based) that can cause upwards of a 1.5v drop...trust me I know

The entire Idea of a cap is to help smooth out voltage fluctuations. Unless you are running a massive system or a really crappy battery a cap is just not needed as the battery is basically a huge capacitor. Now, if you were going to run your car on a battery charger (AC current here) then I'd say a cap would help to keep down the noise that is normally picked up from the charger.
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Old 06-24-2008, 01:30 AM   #9
rabbitnutz
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hey guys, thanks again for the responses. i got the info needed abotu the sub, it's a 10" MTX Thunder 6000....and the amp is a mtx 342 thunder. the wiring that's in there now looks like it's 8g power and ground, and the new stuff i got in the kit includes this:

Quote:
Scosche 1600 Watt Amp 'n Cap Wiring Kit KPCA4 has everything you need to conenct a high-power 2-channel amplifier to your car stereo. It's like fuel injection for your amp, providing more power when your amp needs it, increasing the bass response.

* Contains everything you need to get power from your battery as well as an audio signal from your head unit, to one or two amplifiers
* A .5 Farad Digital Stiffening Capacitor has a digital voltage read-out; provides more power when your amp needs it and increases the bass response
* 17 feet of 4-gauge cable brings your amp the power it needs
* 3 feet of 6-gauge grounding cable
* 100 amp fuse holder protects your amp from over-current
* High performance interconnect wire brings the audio signal from your head unit to your amp
* Battery terminal connects the amp power wire to your car's battery

Last edited by rabbitnutz; 06-24-2008 at 01:47 AM.
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Old 06-24-2008, 09:07 AM   #10
Daishi00
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I don't understand why you are going to put the cap in here still. You are going to spend less money cleaning up your grounds and doing the big three on the system (so if you haven't opened it yet take it back). It will most likely fix all of your issues. A cap is only needed in like 1% of installations out there and even then it's questionable.
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:37 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by punk View Post
Clean your battery terminals, make sure your grounds are securely connected to bare metal, run your wires correctly, set the gains (and other settings) on your amp appropriately. If you still have issues, look into the big 3. THROW THE CAPACITOR IN THE TRASH.

edit: Here is lots of info on the big 3 and how to do it: Big 3 Upgrade
+1 FTW

Caps aren't worth what everyone holds them to be. After a long/powerful bass shot the cap is left empty. Stinger has car audio batteries that are much better than caps. They can even crank the engine on start-up. Id say clean up the wiring (terminals,grounds,fuse) and if all of that is right look into a battery, or a new amp. What class is your amp? Class A draws a butt-load of power while Class D draws little power for the same amount of bass. Just my $0.02

Last edited by RallyIt07; 06-24-2008 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 06-25-2008, 12:59 AM   #12
rabbitnutz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daishi00 View Post
I don't understand why you are going to put the cap in here still. You are going to spend less money cleaning up your grounds and doing the big three on the system (so if you haven't opened it yet take it back). It will most likely fix all of your issues. A cap is only needed in like 1% of installations out there and even then it's questionable.
sorry, didn't mean to give the impression i was going to install it, after reading a bit of what others have said, i think i'm going to skip usung the cap, and just use the wiring from the kit (i already opened it)
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