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Old 06-23-2008, 10:57 PM   #1
twagoon
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Default trailer wiring problems

I have an 04 WRX Wagon and I just recently installed a new factory hitch with factory wiring. The day I installed everything I went over to my parents house and hooked the wiring up to my Dad's boat to make sure the wiring was correct. That was about a month ago. Today I went to pick up my brand new trailer that just came in and guess what, the lights don't work on the trailer. We tried hooking up to several different trailers on the lot and none of them worked. They had a battery operated tester to energize the lights at the lot but of course the battery was dead. Due to the fact that many different trailers did not work on my car I figured the problem was somewhere in my car. Since the drive home was relatively short, it is a flatbed trailer with nothing loaded on it, and it was perfectly light out, I went ahead and took it home. After getting a couple miles down the road I noticed that all of my interior lights were not working, including my radio. I could see that my exterior lights were working by the reflections coming off of the other cars. When I got it home I hooked it up to the truck and all of the lights worked. I checked all of my fuses and found the clock/room and the rear defrost fuses were blown. I replaced those fuses and tried the trailer again. This time just the clock/room fuse blew. I replaced the fuse and disconnected from the trailer, I went to check the radio and again the fuse was blown, this time without even turning on the lights. Finaly I decided to check the factory wiring, the 6 pin connector and the black box were both very hot, nothing melted but still very hot. I unplugged the harness at the 6 pin connector. Has anyone else had this problem? Am I alone in this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. The whole reason I got this trailer set up was so that I could haul my quad while using a little less fuel than in the truck and now I can't even do that. Oh yeah, when I checked the wiring at the trailer plug every wire had power when using a continuity tester, no voltage tester. The lights on the trailer are led's I don't know if that has anything to do with it or not. Again any help would be great. I have already cancelled plans because the trailer did not come in on time, and now I am going to have to cancel plans next weekend because I wont have time to do anything with it until then. I don't know if the problem is on the car side, or on the trailer side. I know the wiring on the ruck is much heavier so maybe that is why it hasn't shown up on that yet. I may just have to rewire the entire trailer, I don't know. Please help. Thank you.
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Old 06-23-2008, 11:20 PM   #2
twagoon
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Default

A slight update. I went out to check a couple of things. When I plug the converter box in, not even hooked up to the wires going through the spare tire well, and the rear cargo light got very dim. Should I cut the 12 volt power and rewire it directly to the battery? If I do that what size fuse should I use. This will be a pain but it will give me a reason to pre wire for my amp. Any ideas.
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Old 06-24-2008, 08:58 AM   #3
rkramer
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Quote:
Oh yeah, when I checked the wiring at the trailer plug every wire had power when using a continuity tester, no voltage tester.
That in itself is a problem. I'm assuming you used a light bulb type tester? one of those wires should be ground, so if every wire had power, you have a short somewhere.

Rewiring... There is no need to go to the battery for any trailer a subaru will be pulling. The only time you need direct to battery is with a large trailer (over 80 wide) with a bunch of running lights/backup lights. Just buy a new converter box (walmart) and wire it into your existing taillight wires.
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:56 AM   #4
Cougar4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twagoon View Post
A slight update. I went out to check a couple of things. When I plug the converter box in, not even hooked up to the wires going through the spare tire well, and the rear cargo light got very dim. Should I cut the 12 volt power and rewire it directly to the battery? If I do that what size fuse should I use. This will be a pain but it will give me a reason to pre wire for my amp. Any ideas.
I think you have a problem inside the converter box or it is miswired somehow. It also sounds like the power line going to the rear cargo light has a problem or you have miswired to it somehow. I suggest you verify the wires that you are using to tie the box to are really what you think they should be.
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Old 06-24-2008, 02:11 PM   #5
ritky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twagoon View Post
A slight update. I went out to check a couple of things. When I plug the converter box in, not even hooked up to the wires going through the spare tire well, and the rear cargo light got very dim. Should I cut the 12 volt power and rewire it directly to the battery? If I do that what size fuse should I use. This will be a pain but it will give me a reason to pre wire for my amp. Any ideas.
If your converter box needs a constant 12V then I would not use the lamp 12v especially if it's drawing enough to dim the lights. Run a temporary line to the battery and see if that helps before installing a new one inside the car. The problem could be with your converter also...possibly short or drawing too much amps from the lamp circuit.
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Old 06-24-2008, 11:20 PM   #6
twagoon
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Sorry, I guess I did not explain a couple of things very well, rkramer, you are correct I was using a bulb type tester but I was using the ground prong as the ground, so power was at the other three wires. Cougar4, this is the factory plug and play wiring kit, I did no wiring of my own. Just plug in the converter to the 6 pin and run the 4 flat wire through the gromet. The trailer is 81" wide but has just 4 lights on it, which are led's. I am going to see if I can get the converter box replaced under warranty through Subaru, though I don't know if they will since I installed the hitch myself. If that does not work I am going to use the 6 pin plug and try to hard wire it, at least a temporary hard wire if there is such a thing, to see if it works then. That's the nice thing about the factory converter box, it completely labels what each wire is so with a pin out tool I may even be able to use the factory plug from my now bad converter box, we will see.
Thank you all for your help on this, I really do appreciate it a lot.
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