Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Sunday December 21, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Built Motor Discussion

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-14-2008, 09:22 PM   #1
wittmer25
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 102970
Join Date: Dec 2005
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Waco, TX
Vehicle:
2004 STi gt30r
Black

Default My GT30R Build in progress...

Pictures so far:

http://photos.msn.com/Slideshow/View...24%26index%3d0

I am just getting around to posting pic's of my 04 STi GT30R build.

Short block:
+ Gruppe-S Stage 1 short block with 100mm wiesco pistons and their "long rod" ratio helix rods (which really aren't much longer). I didn't pull the block apart due to time constraints to check the piston to wall clearances like I should have.
+ It looked like the block halves were surfaced where the heads bolted up to. Not sure how many thousandths.
+ oil pump inlet port matched at .625"
+ oil passages between filter and pump inlet blended and smoothed
+ oil return passages ported, blended, and smoothed
+ oil pick-up tube modifired: lengthened, reinforced and heavily braced with sheet metal
+ oil pickup screen cover (not mesh screen) removed and spaced about 1/4" to 5/16" off bottom of pan

Custom Oil Pan:
+ 8 qt. capacity
+ integrated oil temp sensor bung close to oil pick-up
+ integrated catch can drain with 3/8" steel line
+ "swinging gate" baffles on each wing of the oil pan (3 total)
+ sits less than a 1/4" lower than headers (perrin)
+ aluminum heat shields mounted between headers and oil pan (not much air gap between but some)

Oil Pump:
+ DIY ported 12mm JDM pump w/ external stainless oil by-pass relief valve
+ pump outlet port matched to block inlet
+ relief valve located at oil sandwich adapter; returning to oil fill tube by 3/8" steel line
+ oil pressure at cold start idle (1000 rpm) >100 psi (taken at AVCS steel line_> before head orifice)
+ idle (1000 rpm) -> 20-25 psi @ 190*F coolant, 200*F oil temp
+ 3500+ rpm -> 90 psi all the way to redline (set at 7500 rpm for now) @ 190*F coolant, 200*F oil temp.... I have seen up to 240*F during a long WOT pull to high triple digit speeds.... time for an OIL COOLER
+ NOTE: I think a ported 10mm pump would have sufficed since i needed an external by-pass to drop my oil pressure to a resonable pressure at lower rpm's.

Head studs:
+ ARP standard size head studs

Head gasket:
+ Comettic .051" thick gasket
+ coated with copper sealant; both sides

Heads:
+ 04 Sti heads purchased used
+ heads where DIY ported; checked with homemade flowbench, intake and exhaust ports
+ new valve guide seals
+ Supertech nitrided intake valves (stock size), stock sti exhaust valves
+ BC springs w/ Ti retainers; much stiffer than stock
+ Cosworth cams
+ valve lash adjusted... modified used and new buckets for correct clearances
+ NOTE: used oem clearances instead of cosworth on exhaust side... opps
+ port matched intake and exhaust mani's
+ Perrin equal length header
+ stock intake manifold & throttle body

TVG Deletes & fuel system:
+ Perrin Fuel Rail
+ Modded Injectors
+ Stock FPR
+ Walbro fuel pump

Intake:
+ Custom 3" intake running MAF air metering
+ MAF sensor mount integrated to intake
+ K&N filter

Breather system:
+ "Lingenfelter" type filtered catch can
+ removable filter with o-rings... will be buying new viton o-rings soon to replace existing due to swelling
+ still utilizing pcv

Relocated water reservoir:
+ custom support bracket

Turbo kit:
+ Modified Perrin GT30R "old turbine housing style"
+ .82 A/R Turbing housing
+ 44 mm Wastegate w/ 1 bar spring
+ Modified down pipe; added flex joint to end of dp so that it mates with my eBay SS exhaust (turboxs copy)
+ Catless exhaust

Intercooler:
+ eBay FMIC modified
+ using crushed BPV & still recirculating
+ Custom fiberglass "ram air" shroud that forces all air entering front, lower grill to pass through intercooler

Aluminum grill:
+ 1/4" thick flat by 1" wide
+ all thread and nuts to get equal spacing
+ painted black then sanded and polished front to get that "billet look"
+ helps to protect intercooler from f.o.d. such as rocks
+ used an old satallite dish screen to protect intercooler & radiator fins from f.o.d.

EM:
+ UTEC with map selector switch
+ Romraider
+ Zeitronics WB AFR meter w/ EGT sensor & MAP sensor

Water Injection:
+ soon to be installed Aquamist HFS-5 system including 2.5 gallon water/meth tank in trunk

*** MORE TOO COME ***
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by wittmer25; 05-15-2008 at 04:10 PM. Reason: added info
wittmer25 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2008, 09:22 PM   #2
wittmer25
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 102970
Join Date: Dec 2005
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Waco, TX
Vehicle:
2004 STi gt30r
Black

Default

for future updates...
wittmer25 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2008, 09:24 PM   #3
wittmer25
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 102970
Join Date: Dec 2005
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Waco, TX
Vehicle:
2004 STi gt30r
Black

Default

expansion post....
wittmer25 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2008, 10:09 PM   #4
Kosmic
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 99140
Join Date: Oct 2005
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: YUL
Vehicle:
GD Racing chassis
Slowly in construction

Default

Cool, nice setup. Waiting for close up pics of your 12mm oil pump with the external adjustable oil by-pass relief valve.
Kosmic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2008, 10:28 PM   #5
scby rex
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 104878
Join Date: Jan 2006
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: copperas cove
Vehicle:
02 wrxbastardchild
aw, MPS 2.34 breaking in

Default

whats the thing hanging off your oil filter sandwich? Is that a billet grill?You need to come to our meets dude.
scby rex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2008, 01:30 AM   #6
wittmer25
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 102970
Join Date: Dec 2005
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Waco, TX
Vehicle:
2004 STi gt30r
Black

Default

The thing hanging off the sandwich adapter is the external oil pressure relief valve to lower my oil pressure. My grill is made of aluminum flat that was painted and front face was then polished. We used all thread and nuts to space it evenly. There is also a fiber glass air damn that forces all the air to pass through the fmic.
wittmer25 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2008, 06:13 PM   #7
Speedelements
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 121054
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: San Antonio
Vehicle:
2007 Sti 30r
Swp

Default

Nice keep us update...I was looking at there blocks at one point but couldn't find any personal reviews...
Speedelements is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2008, 12:41 PM   #8
charliew
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 125304
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Crawford, TX.
Default

The flow bench is "homemade" but it uses 12 120 vac motors in two seperate chambers and uses Audie Tech. Flow Quick controls and software. It is adjustable to way over 28 inches at less than 2 inches of orfice. It is calibrated with a 2 inch orfice and can be set on: actual cfm, 10 inches, 28 inches, cmm 710mm, cmm 255mm and actual cmm. It also has a high cfm and low cfm setting. I also bought a Flow Quick variable speed control to control the 6 120 vac. motors that we use on lower flowing settings, (300 cfm or less). When we need 600 cfm we turn on the extra 6 motors and open their compartment and a 4 inch duct to test the higher flowing stuff. When you go to the next increment on valve lift you readjust the 28 inches on the magnehelic gauge to give a accurate reading at each lift. At .050 intake lift you will be running the vac. motors real low as there is not much air flow needed but you still want 28 inches of h20 on the magnehelic to be accurate. The magnehelic gauge goes up to 50 inches of water and 15 psi on pressure.
Audie Tech Flow Quick is used by lots of flow testers and is considered very accurate. You are really doing a before and after comparison on your flow testing. I'm not sure about comparing flow results to other benches it's sorta like comparing dynos.
I built my own mainly to get a useable tester that I could cost justify and to make one that didn't take up so much space. It's on casters to be moved around, it also needs two 50/60 amp 220vac circuits to run the vac. motors. I still spent over 1000.00 on parts
Our head adapter uses a 4 inch bore with a 4 inch stroke to test the subie heads with a modified tgv for the intake and a short exhaust fitting to test the exhaust. We use a fixture that has two 1 inch travel dial indicators to set the individual valve openings at each .050 inch lift increments.
I found this formula on Autospeed for cfm = hp.(.43x max port flow at your cam's lift (in cfm at 10 inches) x number of cylinders = peak HP) There is a formula for 10" to 28" conversion but it's not handy.
For street motors the average flow improvement is whats important because the street car spends most of it's time in the lower rpm range. High flow numbers are great on race cars at high rpm's. A 20% improvement at low lift would be magic on the subie head but would also wreak havoc if it's not already on boost. Too big of ports at low rpms would kill the velocity and hurt na chamber filling.
I don't think any head can be ported and only a improvement realized. In my limited experience you loose a little low lift flow as you increase higher lift flow.
As wittmer 25 told me " it is the average improvement across the lift range that counts as the real improvement"

In short don't buy a race head for the street.

If I remember correctly we left the small ledge of overhang at the exhaust port to header to stop reversion. I think we did the same thing on the intake ports to the tgvs.

I thought I would add that we also used a Phase II sonic checker to see if there where any thin areas in the ports. We didn't find any thin areas to worry about with the amount of porting we wanted.

I have since got a good assortment of Kwik Way valve seat cutters and a Gizmo valve resurfacer to play with as I have time. I will say the exhaust seats are very hard and cutting them out to a mm bigger is a little time consuming. The intake seats are easy.

I'm still not convinced a 5 angle valve job is better than a hand contoured seat area.

On the oil pan to pickup clearance on wittmer 25's motor we ended up with about 7/16 clearance. We actually lowered the pan to get the clearance to keep from modding the pickup's length. We did add a additional brace to the pickup.

Last edited by charliew; 01-11-2010 at 10:56 AM. Reason: adding new tools to list
charliew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2008, 07:49 AM   #9
INFMIS
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 174494
Join Date: Mar 2008
Default

similar to mine man, nice build
INFMIS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2008, 11:34 AM   #10
charliew
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 125304
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Crawford, TX.
Default

The external pressure relief on the sandwich adapter came from McMaster Carr. I think the specs are: 150 psi, 250 degrees about 80.00 shipped.

Wittmer 25 said he was working on getting the pics back up.
charliew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2008, 01:19 AM   #11
Elijah_WRX
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 147018
Join Date: Apr 2007
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Colorado
Vehicle:
06 WRX TR
Obsidian Black

Default

Do you think you could take a pic to show me how you fixed your "DP to Exhaust/Flex joint" scenario? I'm goin through the same problem with my new perrin kit and my TXS exhaust
Elijah_WRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2008, 12:08 PM   #12
wittmer25
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 102970
Join Date: Dec 2005
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Waco, TX
Vehicle:
2004 STi gt30r
Black

Default

We basically cut the end of the perrin down pipe off then cut the end of the ebay down pipe off, and welded it to the perrin down pipe so it would bolt up to the rest of the exhaust. The ebay down pipe has a flex joint in it so we made sure we cut enough off the perrin down pipe so we could utilize it. You have to have the perrin down pipe installed to make your measurements on how much to cut off. Leave the cat back part of your turboxs exhaust installed and just measure how much you need to add to the perrin down pipe. To be honest, I can't remember which one is too long. We may have cut off part of the ebay cat back exhaust to so we could align the pipes correctly. Anyway, you have to have both installed to figure how much to cut off. My dad can weld so he measured how much to cut off of each down pipe then tacked it back onto the perrin pipe and checked fitment. Hope this helps.
wittmer25 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Bonneville EVO build in progress! aka another monster from AMS AMS Member's Car Gallery 230 08-23-2010 05:14 PM
My New Build In Progress excursionist Built Motor Discussion 7 01-25-2008 12:48 AM
My 05 sti in progress godfather2112 Member's Car Gallery 25 02-22-2007 12:44 AM
my 02 Work in progress (56k uhhhh) killthelights145 Member's Car Gallery 21 07-21-2006 01:54 AM
my 02 Work in progress (56k uhhhh) killthelights145 Member's Car Gallery 0 07-16-2006 08:58 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:43 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.