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Old 07-12-2008, 09:59 PM   #1
Wagon Of Fury
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Default HELP OT: Need to replace an ancient AC wall unit... tomorrow

This old clunker finally gave up the ghost, keeps tripping the breaker, making horrible noises, and just not blowing that cold. Its gotta be from the 1970s so even though its 220V its probably inefficient as hell (the fact that its 23000 BTU for a space that only needs 12000 doesnt help either).

So:

The 220V units seem to be a LOT more expensive than their 110 equivalents. Is it worth spending 20-40% (say, $300 more) to buy the 220V version ?

Based on the maths, 10-12k BTU should be enough. Why the hell they put in a 23k BTU unit is beyond me. Is it worth overbuying on BTUs ?

Whaddya say OT ?
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:01 PM   #2
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Yes, over cooling capacity makes all the difference in terms of comfort. If you calculate 12K btu's, I'd say get an 18K unit. Fridgedaire from Lowes ftw.

<---been dealing with effing A/C headaches for a month
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:02 PM   #3
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Bigger is better, so I say yes on all counts.
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:05 PM   #4
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overcooling will cost more.......so do you really need more cool air or more money in your wallet?
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dillsky View Post
overcooling will cost more.......so do you really need more cool air or more money in your wallet?
Energy saver mode + thermometer settings = wat the eff are you talking about?
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:09 PM   #6
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I just installed this today, and it is working great. It also has an "energy saver" function that turns the whole unit off when it is below your set tempurature, then when it gets too warm it comes back on cools it off and then shuts off again. the only problem I have had with it, is that my onkyo 606 runs of the same IR frenquency so whenever I mute the TV the temp goes up on the air conditioner.

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=4456974
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:09 PM   #7
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Maybe he means it will cost more up front.
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:11 PM   #8
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A bigger unit will cost you more than a smaller unit regaurdless of energy saving modes or T-stats. It may not be a whole heck of a lot, but it will still cost ya more
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dillsky View Post
A bigger unit will cost you more than a smaller unit regaurdless of energy saving modes or T-stats. It may not be a whole heck of a lot, but it will still cost ya more
True, but what's the ability to make it icy cold worth
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:20 PM   #10
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if it actually has a working thermostat, an oversized a/c unit will actually be less efficient then a properly sized one.

if it doesn't have a thermostat and yer just going to run it flat out to get it as cold as possible, well I think the answer to that is obvious.
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:22 PM   #11
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OK, the more i search, a 220V version is TWICE the $$, and I am finding crazy low prices for 24K BTU units from LG for like $350 (vs) $700-800 for a 14K 220V version. I cant even find 24K 220V units period.

How do you figure payback period ? Hot months typically make the electric bill double to $150-$175 (up from normally $80-100). It seems like the 220V has an uphill battle in that it has to save half its purchase cost in a year or two (the max time we will be in this house) to make it worthwhile.
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H-Dtech View Post
Sweet, I might have to go check that one out. Thanks !
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wagon Of Fury View Post
OK, the more i search, a 220V version is TWICE the $$, and I am finding crazy low prices for 24K BTU units from LG for like $350 (vs) $700-800 for a 14K 220V version. I cant even find 24K 220V units period.

How do you figure payback period ? Hot months typically make the electric bill double to $150-$175 (up from normally $80-100). It seems like the 220V has an uphill battle in that it has to save half its purchase cost in a year or two (the max time we will be in this house) to make it worthwhile.
Don't get LG. I have some LG units and a Fridgedaire one. The Fridgedaire from Lowes is identical in price but better quality. And once you're at 18K or so, I think you're in 220V range.
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:44 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wagon Of Fury View Post
Sweet, I might have to go check that one out. Thanks !
that one isn't in the store. its only online just FYI.
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:49 PM   #15
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Do you know any electricians. Any competent electrician should be able to convert your 220v outlet to a 110v outlet so you can run a regular unit.
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:51 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O2wrx View Post
Do you know any electricians. Any competent electrician should be able to convert your 220v outlet to a 110v outlet so you can run a regular unit.
All you have to do is change the breakers from 220V to 110V and change the outlet. The heavier gauge wire can be used again.
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeCee View Post
All you have to do is change the breakers from 220V to 110V and change the outlet. The heavier gauge wire can be used again.
Yea but I wouldn't reccomend it for anyone that didn't already do it himself.
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:56 PM   #18
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Old 07-12-2008, 11:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O2wrx View Post
Yea but I wouldn't reccomend it for anyone that didn't already do it himself.
Understandable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmpi View Post
Since we're talking about a room conditioner with a chart on the side of the box, I can tell you from recent experience that chart doesn't provide sufficient cooling capacity. It's close, but no cigar.

A slight bump up is a good thing. Say from 12K to 15K (I agree 18K as I said before could be too much).

But we're talking about a small difference here that likely won't get into the short cycles your article discusses. Besides, that calculation seems a little difficult for a window unit. I think it makes more sense when you're sizing a central unit.
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:47 AM   #20
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Thanks fellas - went to bed before seeing the last part of the thread. There is a 110 outlet (blue dot)right nearby so I wont have to play electrician, just get a heavy gauge cord.

Here's the layout:



220AC (near red dot) thats broken in the middle room, it ridicuously overcools that room and we have to use stand fans to blow cool into the other rooms. We spend most of our time in the leftmost room. Both the leftmost and rightmost rooms have ceiling fans, of course the middle room does not (!). I'm starting to lean towards a newer efficient unit for the left room and call it a day, leave the busted AC in the wall as a disclosure item come time to sell.

Im going to Lowes and HD this morning regardless just to see whats what.

Edit: Based on the math, 12k BTU (640 sq ft) seems just about perfect if I was to replace the busted unit.

Last edited by Wagon Of Fury; 07-13-2008 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 07-13-2008, 01:26 PM   #21
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you know they over size them so that when you have guests over it can keep the room cool right?
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Old 07-15-2008, 10:48 PM   #22
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Wrapping this up. It's not the 220V that makes an AC so expensive (per se) its that only the larger BTU units will come in 220V in the first place (15K and up). It's that a given unit is a WALL UNIT and constructed differently (venting etc) that makes it more expensive (and heavy as isht apparently).

Ended up getting a Frigidaire 220V 25K BTU window unit for $400. Much better. Thanks MikeCee and everyone.
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Old 07-15-2008, 10:55 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wagon Of Fury View Post
Wrapping this up. It's not the 220V that makes an AC so expensive (per se) its that only the larger BTU units will come in 220V in the first place (15K and up). It's that a given unit is a WALL UNIT and constructed differently (venting etc) that makes it more expensive (and heavy as isht apparently).

Ended up getting a Frigidaire 220V 25K BTU window unit for $400. Much better. Thanks MikeCee and everyone.
Holy Christ Someone took my advice

I really wasn't expeting to see that. Huge unit, but you'll be ice cold. Watch for the short cycles the other guy was talking about. If it's not out of the box yet, an 18K unit may be a good exchange.

Either way, let us know how it goes. Enjoy the frosty cool air Now you just need some box fans to circulate it.
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:04 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wagon Of Fury View Post
This old clunker finally gave up the ghost, keeps tripping the breaker, making horrible noises, and just not blowing that cold. Its gotta be from the 1970s so even though its 220V its probably inefficient as hell (the fact that its 23000 BTU for a space that only needs 12000 doesnt help either).

So:

The 220V units seem to be a LOT more expensive than their 110 equivalents. Is it worth spending 20-40% (say, $300 more) to buy the 220V version ?

Based on the maths, 10-12k BTU should be enough. Why the hell they put in a 23k BTU unit is beyond me. Is it worth overbuying on BTUs ?

Whaddya say OT ?
Go over on capacity, but not too far (as you did). 14-16K should have been be fine (given that you calculated it right). Frequent cycling actually costs more and doesn't remove anough humidity from the room/residence.

220v is also worth it. Depending on the output, the current draw could push over 20A during start-up cycles running 120V. 220V should cut the amperage by around 40-45%.

Have fun.
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:04 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeCee View Post
Holy Christ Someone took my advice

I really wasn't expeting to see that. Huge unit, but you'll be ice cold. Watch for the short cycles the other guy was talking about. If it's not out of the box yet, an 18K unit may be a good exchange.

Either way, let us know how it goes. Enjoy the frosty cool air Now you just need some box fans to circulate it.
Yeah I was going to get the 18K unit ($50 cheaper) but it was a different 220V plug (15 amp) than the current monster (20 amp). It couldnt possibly be as simple as swapping outlets could it ? Still in the box, gonna need my boys help to get it in place.
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