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Old 07-18-2008, 05:05 PM   #1
Bad Noodle
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Default My mFactory / DS1 5spd install diary

I though I'd document the whole process as I swap in a mFactory gearset built by DS1 Motorsports.

So
DAY 1

Tranny brought home




What's in the wrapping:



I'm gonna start with getting the car in the air a bit. Mine is really low so I"m starting like this:


I'm planning on using wooden boxes in the back to hold up the car for extra sturdyness



A couple of hours later (it took a couple of hours because my jacks suck (GM jacks) and the car is low, thus i have no leverage on the lever.

But here's what I got so far:




I'm not planning on doing all the work like this, just the basics till I start taking out the axels and such .

More tomorrow

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Old 07-18-2008, 05:34 PM   #2
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COOL.. My MFactory1-4 trans should be in on mon or tuesday..
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Old 07-18-2008, 06:43 PM   #3
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do you have DS1's phone number?
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Old 07-18-2008, 06:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
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do you have DS1's phone number?
http://ds1motorsports.savidtech.com/...ntact&Itemid=3
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Old 07-18-2008, 07:09 PM   #5
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(847)652-5787
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Old 07-18-2008, 08:24 PM   #6
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Don't jack the car by the rear differential.
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Old 07-18-2008, 08:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ciper View Post
Don't jack the car by the rear differential.
Why, those are the "scoobymods approved" jacking points:






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Old 07-18-2008, 08:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ciper View Post
Don't jack the car by the rear differential.
Why not?
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Old 07-18-2008, 08:50 PM   #9
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how much did everything cost you?
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Old 07-18-2008, 09:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Don't jack the car by the rear differential.
dude I jack up army 35k lb trucks on the axles. I think he will be fine there.
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Old 07-18-2008, 09:13 PM   #11
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Jacking a Subaru by its rear differential damages the bushings and can bend part of the subframe. It is a "free floating" part which is neither directly attached to the suspension or the body. Subaru SPECIFICALLY says not to jack the car by this location.

"scoobymods approved" doesnt mean much. Do you believe everything you read on the internet

Don't take my word for it though. Get the FSM from any EJ series Subaru and look at the assembly of the rear subframe and differential.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Decon View Post
dude I jack up army 35k lb trucks on the axles. I think he will be fine there.
Yes your 35k lb truck normall supports its weight on the axle. The Subaru does not
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Old 07-18-2008, 09:15 PM   #12
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^ alright

So how do you get the back up onto jackstands?

You can't do it 1 side at a time

and:



widely used diagram:
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:16 PM   #13
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if subaru says to not jack it by the rear differential, i would not jack it by the rear diff, no matter what some online diagram says.
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Old 07-19-2008, 10:33 AM   #14
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DAY 2


Time to get into this, so starting with the engine:


Downpipe, IC pipes, pitchstop, harnesses, and ground removed:


Starter removed:


Slave cylinder removed:





1st ?

The instructions say to pull this pin after removing the starter and slave cylinder:



it's for an 02/03 which has a push type clutch
The 07s have a pull type and I don't see that pin



Do I still need to release the fork?
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Old 07-19-2008, 12:36 PM   #15
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inside take nappart


raised to super height and drained tranny fluid


started prying axle


removed bottom bolt


took suspension appart


as far as I can get the axle out




well I'm kinda stuck... dunno how to take the axles out. This is as far as I can get them after taking apart the suspension

I hope they'll have enough clearnce to get out once I move the tranny back
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Old 07-19-2008, 12:55 PM   #16
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Unbolt the sway bar endlink, it will allow you to push the arm further down to get the axle out. Take the outer joint out of the hub first then out of the trans.

You can put your shifter back together, take the bolt out of the joint on the trans, also you will want to put your stock shifter back in or an SPT short throw, we've had issues with the Kartboy shifters popping out of first

There is no release for pin on 06'-07's because of the push style clutch.

-Dylan @ DS1
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Old 07-19-2008, 01:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS1 Motorsports View Post
Unbolt the sway bar endlink, it will allow you to push the arm further down to get the axle out. Take the outer joint out of the hub first then out of the trans.
-Dylan @ DS1
Thanks for the info. I'm not sure what you mean by "take the outer joint out of the hub"

Do you mean unbolt the giant bolt on the hub? or do you mean the bolt underneath with the cutouts?


Also, I was pulling on the axle really hard and some found some circular spring wrapped around the axle. Is that anything to worry about?
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Old 07-19-2008, 02:04 PM   #18
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The axle is connected to the car in two spots - to the tranny and to the hub (where the wheel is bolted on) - If you take the axle nut off and remove the WHEEL side of the axle first it makes it easier to take the axle out of the tranny.
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Old 07-19-2008, 02:13 PM   #19
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^^ what he said
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Old 07-19-2008, 03:16 PM   #20
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Ok, so took the rear diff cover off and undid the first 2 bolts,

Then I couldn't get to the other two, so I lifed the car, roateted wheels, and got the other 2 facing down, marked position before I took off the driveshaft



Took the shifter linkage off




I don't have a tranny jack, so I used some enginutiy:




The tranny is now all unbolted and ready to come down:




I can't get the front axle nut off since I don't have a socket big enough. I can't get the ball joint off either since I don't have a seperator.

So the plan is to move the tranny back slowly until I can wiggle the driveshafts out once they have enough clearence

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Old 07-19-2008, 03:23 PM   #21
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dude thats soooo sweet. Thanks for the good write up so far. I am saving up for a gear set, but don't know which one I need. Good luck!!
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Old 07-19-2008, 03:34 PM   #22
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^^ PM me

Good to see you've almost got it out.

Remember to support the engine with a jack before you seperate the trans

-Dylan @ DS1
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Old 07-19-2008, 03:40 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS1 Motorsports View Post
Remember to support the engine with a jack before you seperate the trans
Or just a nice 2X4



And the slide technique works like a champ and I've never had to remove or undo any suspension components.....although I have axle stubs which my make this easier.

Nice pics and write up.
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Old 07-19-2008, 05:23 PM   #24
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getting the tranny out isn't as bad, just a lot of cardio.

What I did was basically "wiggle" the tranny loose using 2 jacks.

1. Supporting the tranny
1. jacking up the engine by the crosspipe

So what I would do is jack 1 up, pull on a bar I had wedged between the tranny and the cross member, jack other up, pull, lower first, pull, lower second pull










Did that a good 10 time and everything came apart just fine.

The axles were easy to get out once the tranny was loose.



My biggest question are about the clips on the ends of the axles... anything wrong with them being a lit loose?


The other thing I'm not sure about is this bracelet made out of a spring... it came somewhere off the tranny and I'm not sure what it's supposed to do...any input about these would be appreiated




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Old 07-19-2008, 05:27 PM   #25
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that sping is part of the seal.
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