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Old 07-23-2008, 03:55 AM   #1
kirbykirb
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 183596
Join Date: Jul 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: USA
Vehicle:
2005 WRX/9-2x
Obsedian Black Pearl

Default How do I fix torque bind?

Quote:
most common symptoms of this problem are a shudder throughout the whole car, but more pronounced beneath the seat, when accelerating in a low-speed turn. The shudder will stop if power is removed and disappears when speed goes beyond the threshold of most tires or the wheels are straightened out.
My subie has this problem since purchased. And I just recently discovered it was torque bind after my local mechanic was confused by it.

What is the steps to fix it? I've read the entire article here.

So dealer option would be 1k, but I'd really wouldn't like to take that route and maybe do chance of some DIY.

What would be my part list to accomplish this, has anyone reading this done this before?

Thanks!
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Old 07-23-2008, 07:19 AM   #2
Jonathan
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 4021
Join Date: Feb 2001
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Natick, MA USA
Vehicle:
1999 Legacy GT Ltd
Quick Silver Metallic

Default

You have an Automatic ?
Change the Automatic Transmission fluid and add a quart of "Lube Guard".

My understanding is that this isn't an instantaneous cure, but with a few hundred miles the symptoms should be greatly reduced.
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Old 07-23-2008, 07:42 AM   #3
Huffer
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Member#: 36735
Join Date: May 2003
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Wellington,NZ / Willoughby,OH
Vehicle:
99 GF8 Impreza 2.0
2= 1998 BD + BK Legacy GT

Default

Kirby - check my answer on SL-i.net. Basically the same as above, but if you get it early enough you can save yourself some $$$. Happened to me, I drove around with the FWD fuse in to try to buy some time, and eventually worked out the solution. Within 30miles of doing the flush it was back to normal. Been that way for 2 years.
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Old 07-23-2008, 11:32 PM   #4
Jonathan
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Member#: 4021
Join Date: Feb 2001
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Natick, MA USA
Vehicle:
1999 Legacy GT Ltd
Quick Silver Metallic

Default

Stolen from Dave's (DLC's ?) Legacycentral article/link that Kirbykirb posted :
Quote:
Inside of the housing the rear shaft spins and has teflon bushings and fluid seals for the AWD system. This is where much of the rear power is transferred. The problem occurs when these bushings wear against the aluminum. For some reason Subaru, or the transmission manufacturers, decided not to have a bearing or liner in lieu of using the housing itself as the wear surface.

The bushings and seals wear the aluminum down after time. This allows the pressurized ATF to leak from one chamber to the next. The torque meant to be transferred to the rear ends up being greatly reduced and the fluid transaction causes the shuddering.

Thankfully the fix is relatively inexpensive and doesn't require the transmission to be removed.

The rear drive shaft and exhaust rear of the Catalytic Converter have to be removed and the rear transmission housing needs to be removed.

The housing is completely replaced with a new one. New internal components are included and apparently the bushings and seals on the drive shaft are also replaced. The most important piece of the solution is the addition of a steel liner to protect the aluminum housing against wear. This should ensure that this problem doesn't occur for the remaining life of the car.

An updated case with the steel liner was put into production and installed in all new cars in mid-1997.
Changing the ATF fluid and adding Lube Guard may not always work, but its certainly cheaper than replacing the rear part of the transmission housing. My admitadly poor memory says that Huffer's Lube guard fix worked on his high-mileage 1998 Legacy GT. If you have a '95, '96 or even an early '97 Legacy with a 4EAT Automatic (without the updated steel liner) you may not be as fortunate as Huffer was.
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