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Old 07-28-2008, 05:06 PM   #1
paintbing
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Question spun cyl 1 rod bearing - Basic questions...

Okay, so first of all, I still had a significant portion of the rod bearing... Pics to be uploaded in a few minutes.

My question... I have already gone to a hybrid setup. I have just gotten around to slitting the block to see what damage was done to my old EJ205... It turned out to be cyl 1 Rod bearing. The cam journal looks a little scratched, but not gouged or discolored... rod Bearing #2 is still fine, but looks to be getting a little copper coloured...

Questions: Do I replace ALL the rod bearings since I'm in there? Do I replace the main bearings as well?

I was running about 1 qt every 750-1000 miles... should I replace my rings on all the pistons as well? Block sleeves still have original scoring marks...

I am not interested (no money) in creating a built block at this time(rods/pistons etc...).

What are my options, and what should I do at this point? Should I go OEM on bearings, or get aftermarket? Same thing with rings...

My initial plans were to fix it up and sell it... but sometimes you never get what you put into it... so I may keep it as well in case my hybrid blows up or something.
How much are rebuilt wrx short blocks going for?

Thanks!

Cyl 1 bearings


Cyl 2 Bearings


Cyl3 Bearings


Cyl 4 Bearings


Cam Journal 1



Cam Journal 2


Cam Journal 3


Cam Journal 4
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Last edited by paintbing; 07-28-2008 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:28 PM   #2
paintbing
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Cyl 2 & 4


Cyl 1 & 3

Last edited by paintbing; 07-28-2008 at 05:43 PM.
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:36 PM   #3
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bearings aren't that expensive at all in the grand scheme of things i don't see why you wouldn't replace them all

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...1_710_716.html

i can't see OEM bearings being that much cheaper.
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:38 PM   #4
paintbing
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Hey prometheum... It's a small world. Thanks! - Oh a little off topic... Are you running scotty's cocktail still? I promise I was trying to find a way to ship that redline to you when you were back in AK.
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:01 PM   #5
Turbo_Mike
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I dont think you know what the definition of a spun bearing is.

When you "spin" a bearing, thats referring to the bearing itself becoming damaged or worn to the point where it spins inside the rod, causing the rod journal itself to become worn out and damaged. It looks like your bearing didnt move. This is simply a case of a worn out bearing. It looks like you either had some rod bolt stretch going on, or oil starvation. But its just a worn out bearing. The rod itself is probably fine. It looks like the crank is pretty scored though, so thats going to have to be cut or replaced.

When you spin a rod bearing the rod is usually junk, since the material that holds the bearing is worn off and a new bearing will not be able to hold in place. When you spin a main bearing, you can either re-cut all the main journals for oversized bearings, cut the block, or junk it...
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Old 07-28-2008, 09:35 PM   #6
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Yes replace all your bearings, and clean up all the oil passages by scrubbing them with a brush and lots of hot soapy water (car wash).
Replace the oil pump too as it is very difficult to absolutely sure the pressure relief valve is not screwed up with bearing debris and might not function properly, and or the pump rotors might be scored and internal leakage in the pump will go up reducing oil pressure and flow if the old pump is re-used.

The term spun bearing is widely misused. It does properly refer to a situation where the bearing seize to the rod or main journal and the shells, spin in the bore. We should be referring to these as wiped bearings, or simply damaged bearings, since the bearing shells have not moved. Unfortunately the terminology is so deeply entrenched it is not likely to change.

Larry
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Old 07-29-2008, 12:58 AM   #7
paintbing
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Okay, this was a 'wiped' bearing...
It looks like the bearing may have slowly spun a few times though... I can line the bearings up, and they are 'skew'-eyed... ie about 2 mm of each side hangs over the other side...

^ - I already did a hybrid swap. Maybe I wasn't clear enough in my OP. I replaced the oil and water pump as well as the oil cooler, and had the heads refurbished. I was not taking any chances with the new shortblock. The above block is just a side project for me.



What about the piston rings? If I replace them, would I have to get the cyl's re-scored? Would this most likely fix the massive oil loss that was occuring at the end of this engines life?
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Old 07-29-2008, 01:49 AM   #8
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Quote:
What about the piston rings? If I replace them, would I have to get the cyl's re-scored? Would this most likely fix the massive oil loss that was occuring at the end of this engines life?
It depends on why the engine was using oil. In years past new rings absolutely required a hone job to break the glaze and put a fresh cross hatch pattern on the cylinder walls. The newer moly faced rings like very smooth cylinder walls and will work just fine in a clean round used bore if all other things are right (pistons are not cracked etc.)

I know a few people that have slapped new moly faced piston rings in good used cylinder bores and had no problems at all, but its a YMMV sort of thing. You need to have the bores measured to be sure they are round and not oval shaped, and check for scores in the bore, and verify the pistons are good. If you don't have a lot of experience with engine rebuilds take the block to an experienced automotive machinist and see what he has to say. Some of these things are judgment calls and impossible to give solid yes no rules without actually seeing, feeling the surface finish and measuring the bores.

Larry
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Old 07-29-2008, 02:19 AM   #9
paintbing
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Perfect! That was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for your help Larry! I have a feeling Cyl 3 may be slightly out of 'round' - When I went to push it back in with the twist, it didn't want to turn very much, and it seemed to be slightly 'sticky' when the skirts were the last to come out. Although It might have been just me pulling at an angle...

Thanks again!
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintbing View Post
Hey prometheum... It's a small world. Thanks! - Oh a little off topic... Are you running scotty's cocktail still? I promise I was trying to find a way to ship that redline to you when you were back in AK.
yeah i'm running it now...not too impressed
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:31 PM   #11
Turbo_Mike
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maybe because GM synchromesh isnt intended for differentials...

pff but what do I know...
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Old 07-30-2008, 11:37 PM   #12
paintbing
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^ I've been happy with it... but then again it was the most popular thing that fixed my 3 -> 4 grind... I think next time I am going to do the 3 qts of Lightweight and the 1 qt of (Can't remember exactly...). Anyway, one of the vendors swears by it.
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