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Old 08-04-2008, 10:36 PM   #1
GentlemenStylez
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Default Anti-Lift Kit (ALK): How to install

Well, I finally decided to upload my install pictures so that it may help others. This is how I did it. You can do it whatever way you feel is better for you. But if you do it my way, you are merely using it as a guide and nothing else. I am in no way responsible for any damage or injury as a result of poor practice or accidents.

Let's begin (Note: I'm doing both sides simultaneously)...

Firstly, you need to get yourself a set! Comes with 2 ALKs, grease, 2 new nuts, and 2 new washers.


Secondly, get your tools ready and mount the car up properly with jack stands to prevent the car falling down on you. Get as much clearance as you sanely can as you'll need a lot of room to work with.


Most importantly, you'll require a breaker bar; this is mine.


First go at it... I destroyed my adapter. Didn't think the bolts were this tough to break free.


So DO NOT use a 3/8 in. drive to break or torque.


Break loose the bolts first, and then the nut. Don't remove any fasteners until all of them are loosened. I broke loose the nut with 2 wrenches coupled together for extra leverage. After fasteners have been removed, you can pull (or pry) the control arm downward to remove the original mount. If you pry, never pry on a mating surface!



The two mounts side by side for comparison. The sticker says exactly what it means (in reference to their installation positions).


Lube the bushing. And THOROUGHLY clean the area to which it will be installed on your car. You don't want parts to wear prematurely!


The next part will be frustrating; but there IS a way. You have to get the new mount into place without damaging things too much (including yourself) and get it past the tranny crossmember.
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Last edited by GentlemenStylez; 04-28-2010 at 06:16 AM. Reason: Fixed new URL to photos.
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Old 08-04-2008, 10:36 PM   #2
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I pulled down the control arm to initially get the mount on the rod end. At this point I haven't been able to clear the tranny crossmember, so I left it sitting against the tranny crossmember as gently as I could (put a rag between the two to prevent damage). Next, I threaded the old nut onto the control arm. I pulled the control arm downward and placed a socket + breaker bar + breaker bar extension onto the nut. This next picture is for reference as to what position it needs to be in. Use the car chassis as a fulcrum. Get out from under and move to the side of the car; pry the control arm downward as far as you can until you can get the ALK mount to clear the tranny crossmember and position it properly. Once everything is in place (both ALKs), begin threading in the new nut+washer and old bolts until they become snug, but do not torque at this point. Note: FLAT SIDE OF WASHER MUST FACE NUT. If you want, you can lightly lubricate the bolts with anti-seize.


Bring the car back down to ride height (full weight on wheels), like so. Bounce the car a few times and begin torquing the fasteners starting with the nuts first and then the bolts. Use a dead blow mallet and whack the ALKs a few times to make sure things are seated as well as possible, then recheck your torque. Your socket will most likely not fit on the nut with a torque wrench attached. So use a bear claw for best results. A crows foot might work, but I highly discourage using an open ended tool as it can round out the nut. Remember to keep any adapters/extensions at 90 degree angles relative to your torque wrench during the torque process or you'll deviate the leverage and thus ruin your torque value.

Bolts to 184 ft-lbs
Nuts to 140 ft-lbs





Lastly, clean up. Drive around a bit and make sure nothing feels wrong. Drive carefully as you accustom yourself to the new handling behavior. You will immediately notice the car accelerates better out of corners.

Make sure to drive not too aggressively. Re-torque the fasteners after about 50 miles of driving. This is a requirement! Your ALK will have set in and your fasteners will lose their hold. So RE-TORQUE!

Edit: Oh, and don't forget to check wheel alignment. :P

Last edited by GentlemenStylez; 04-28-2010 at 06:40 AM. Reason: added info in red, and fixed photo urls.
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Old 08-05-2008, 03:14 AM   #3
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One of the better write-ups as of late! Good show
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Old 08-05-2008, 04:25 AM   #4
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I should mention that your suspensions roll may increase due to 'softer' feeling springs. That is because the ALKs take up more of the energy during braking/accelerating instead of transmitting them to your suspensions' springs. This in turn will allow each wheel to independently contour to the pavement better, thus increasing traction significantly on four wheel drive vehicles. Your vehicle's corner exit speed will increase the overall speed in the straights; and as we all know, it's maximizing speeds in the straights that count toward decreased lap times the most. That's not to say it isn't important to do well in the corners, too.
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:33 PM   #5
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Just a note, from what I've read and talked with other folks about ALK installs, YMMV a lot with how hard it will be to bust the nuts loose on the OE mount. I've heard anything from an utter deathmatch to a couple grunts with the right leverage. Older cars (where the bolts have had ages to seize up) will definitely put up more of a fight.

Heh, that breaker and cheater combo above treads the line between 'breaker bar' and 'bo staff.'

Last edited by TreyV; 08-06-2008 at 11:23 PM.
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Old 08-05-2008, 06:38 PM   #6
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Nice write up. My ALK instructions were shredded when recieved...I think my washer is oriented the wrong way
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Old 08-06-2008, 12:17 PM   #7
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+1 nice write up.

I love my whiteline ALK!
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Old 08-06-2008, 12:24 PM   #8
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Excellent writeup; subscribed for reference.
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Old 08-06-2008, 01:02 PM   #9
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Good write up.

...I did none of that with mine.
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Old 08-06-2008, 02:37 PM   #10
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what exactly dose this mod do? sorry noob question.
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Old 08-06-2008, 03:50 PM   #11
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It increases caster and decreases the anti-lift geometry on the front end. That means a crisper turn-in and better front end grip when on the throttle in a turn.
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Old 08-06-2008, 08:56 PM   #12
GentlemenStylez
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Thanks for the support! I'll be making more DIY threads in the future. =)
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Old 10-03-2008, 12:15 PM   #13
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I just received the Sport Whiteline Anti Lift Kit that I ordered and it came with a bunch of extra bolts, spacers and square spacers/plates. This is for an '02 WRX Wagon. Are all these extra parts not necessary for the install? Anyone know what they're for?
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Old 10-03-2008, 12:34 PM   #14
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They are to space the front subframe down to make it fit. There should be instructions in the kit that show you where they go.
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Old 10-03-2008, 01:39 PM   #15
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What about noise and vibration?

Thanks
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Old 10-03-2008, 01:43 PM   #16
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Added this to the installation sticky:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1430598
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Old 10-04-2008, 02:16 AM   #17
GentlemenStylez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferraz View Post
What about noise and vibration?

Thanks
On my ride, I experienced no extra noise or vibration. But then again, my suspension has been modified a bit already, so any further upgrades to stiffen the chassis probably will not make any further noticeable differences in noise or vibration. I'm using the medium setting bushings in terms of stiffness.

-GS
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:01 PM   #18
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Default alk torquing

so how did you guys end up torquing the nut to 184 ft lbs? i cant get a socket up there!!! did you use a crows food on the torque rench?
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subiracer06 View Post
so how did you guys end up torquing the nut to 184 ft lbs? i cant get a socket up there!!! did you use a crows food on the torque wrench?
Open end wrench and some leg force. As you are finding out, there is not much that will fit in that location and allow proper torque take-up. At 184 lbs-ft you are going to spread a regular crows foot even if it is a flange nut style.
Although, If you can find a torque extender in that metric size you might be able to use a torque wrench on there.
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:55 PM   #20
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the nut is only supposed to be 140 ft lbs i going to go over to grainger and pick up a 24mm 6pt flange crowfoot. looks like the best bet. damn thing is 25 bucks tho
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:05 PM   #21
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this what i got to try. crossing my fingers

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1FX47?Pid=search
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Old 03-24-2010, 01:02 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subiracer06 View Post
this what i got to try. crossing my fingers

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1FX47?Pid=search
You might break that 3/8-inch drive piece trying to torque to 140 ft-lbs.
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Old 03-24-2010, 02:42 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnSellers View Post
You might break that 3/8-inch drive piece trying to torque to 140 ft-lbs.
I doubt you can even get anywhere near 140ft-lbs with a crows foot. Buy an openended wrench and a piece of pipe like others have said. 140ft-lbs is no joke.
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Old 04-28-2010, 06:32 AM   #24
GentlemenStylez
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Hey guys, I apologize for the late response to this thread. I haven't been around to check the forums much.

Anyways, I fixed the URL to all the pictures.

For those wondering how to torque the nut, the best option is to use a bear claw. Most people weigh at least 160 lbs, so at 12+ inches of leverage (length of most torque wrenches), you should be able to manage 140 ft-lbs of torque. It's a lot easier to torque fasteners than to break them loose.

A crows foot will probably ruin your nut. But you might get lucky since not all tools are created equal. If you use a 3/8" drive, you run a high risk of breaking it. Use at least a 1/2" drive. Again, not all tools are created equal, so as the end user, you have to make your own judgment call.

I hope this info helped. Happy tuning! =D

-GS
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Old 05-23-2010, 09:25 PM   #25
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I will be attempting to install G-N control arm bushing in the next couple of days...

Since my corded impact gun won't fit in there, I wonder if hammering with mallet will work to free up / tighten the nut? this method has worked amazingly well for me on many of installs I've done.
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