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Old 01-09-2014, 09:57 PM   #1
Layvon
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Default Brake Booster Delete DIY

First Off - I understand the risks, and POTENTIAL hazards of deleting the brake booster off a car that came with one with out doing the proper research
In the interest of cleaning up my engine bay a little bit, I wanted to do this.
I also deleted the ABS module. Yes, I know this is going to affect my DCCD. Yes, I will be installing the MAP DCCD to correct it.

I'm sure I'll still get questioned, and I welcome that, as I dont want to do something catastrophically wrong; but I'm fairly certain I am not.

Similar to the Chase Bays Kit but A LOT cheaper, I bought a delete plate off Ebay, for $50 shipped. HERE The Delete Plate arrived in two days and is black. Perfect.

Bought the 7/8" Wilwood Master Cylinder for $80, and the Proportioning Valve was $42. I bought enough other stuff that shipping was free on.that too. I bought the 7/8" Vs other sizes from contacting a few vendors (Not Chase Bays, they were kinda ******** on phone) and explained my calipers and the car weight, and they suggested this size bore. The more important thing that they stated was if I adjust the pedal ratio (get to that in a minute) it would further improve the stopping power.

Here is the Completed assembly of the plate and MC. I think it looks good.


This is after my project is finished too... Details on the DIY -

First, you need one of two things, the stock master cylinder Nut with pin hole and a 5/16" - 24 nut welded on, or retap a spare Clutch MC bracket that is the same size with a smaller hole. I opted to do the latter. The Wilwood threads thread 1/2 way into the nut ( M8 x 1.25 ) ... looking at a Tap / Die / Bit Chart, the original bore is .006" difference. so this is where I got the retap idea.

Next couple pictures are the tapping process. I was too cheap to open a bottle of gear lube but I had some 5W30 to use for tapping fluid and that worked for this application. Make sure to level up your nut and start slow,1/8th turn and back out and it was smooth as silk. Level the Tap too ( forgot to take picture of that.








The last Picture is where I decided to leave it until I go and get a jam nut tomorrow. I forgot to grab one today, so that is the last piece of the puzzle for now.

Now... That pedal Ratio ... The higher the ratio, the less force you have to exert to get the same pressure at the brakes.

blubug_768 Helped me with the following:
Stock is appx 4.5, you can gain by moving the hole on the brake pedal itself, by moving appx you can get up to near 7. Now I'm yet to do this, because I want to see how it feels like it is before I start drilling, but what I might do if it bugs me is buy a new pedal assembly, drill my hole, and reinstall.

Remount everything up and you're 90% of the way there... Just figure out how you want to run the lines and you're done. Easiest way is to put a Tee and run two lines to re connect what you disconnected. Since I also deleted the ABS, its going to be a little trickier for me, so I ordered some 1/8 NPT -> 10MM fittings and hopefully I will have those roughed in soon enough.

Another Side benefit is that you can get your Brake / Accelerator Pedals even, because the pedal has to be sucked in a fuzz since the rod is about 10mm shorter. I was doing heel toe with work boots on and not struggling.I'm gonna see if Chase Bays will sell me their MC Clevis that they made up for the Wilwood. It is stockier than what I'm using, but I might just make my own. It'd be easy
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Last edited by Layvon; 01-09-2014 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:25 PM   #2
subergoo
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Wow! Nice write up! Great pics

Sorry I have nothing to add, I hope you get your desired results
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:30 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info, Layvon. I'm thinking I'll be doing this next spring. Mod time for this year has just about run out.

It's been a while since you've done this, what are your impressions driving around sans brake booster?
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:19 PM   #4
Layvon
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I have not driven the car yet haha. Still building the motor

Layvon
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:41 PM   #5
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Haha, I suspected that may have been the case. I'm looking forward to some impressions when it's all done!

Quote:
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I have not driven the car yet haha. Still building the motor

Layvon
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Old 09-17-2014, 07:32 AM   #6
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Any updates???
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Old 09-18-2014, 09:24 PM   #7
Layvon
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Car still not running. Everything paid for, waiting to ship
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Old 09-26-2014, 07:14 AM   #8
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What's waiting to ship? I'm interested here!
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Old 11-24-2014, 12:50 AM   #9
subiblue2002
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Il pick up where he left off.
I got the same exact set up and plan of execution. .
I have stoptech bbk in the front. . And stock in the rear.
Drove the car for the first time today. ..
Rock hard pedal.
I didnt really get a chance to warm up the fronts enough , just got my stroker running.. need a tune..
Got up 30 and smashed the pedal ( didnt exert full force) , did no exactly stop on a dime..
Gonna take some serious getting used to..
And Im also going to drill a hole higher up on the pedal for more pedal force..
Will post with updates.
Car is not a dd, show/weekend car

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Old 11-24-2014, 05:50 AM   #10
Layvon
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Good to hear! Same MC as i got?
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Old 12-30-2014, 05:37 PM   #11
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I'm hoping for some more updates/info on this as well... It's in my potential upgrade list once I find out more
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Old 12-31-2014, 05:51 PM   #12
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I did it years ago. Mounted the master to the top two holes and redrilled the pedal to increase the ratio. It still took a LOT of pedal effort to stop. I got sick of it and put the booster back in.
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Old 01-08-2015, 03:46 PM   #13
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Ok haha, glad to know before I took the plunge seems the people I found who have done this do not like it. Thanks
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:17 PM   #14
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I would assume this is like driving a old car? From the 60's.....sometimes have to use two feet in traffic and get crazy leg pump?


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Old 01-09-2015, 11:58 PM   #15
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hey I remember making those sweet ms paint pics, lol.
I got so used to it that I eventually went back to the stock pedal ratio for less pedal travel/ easier heel toe. I remember it did take some time to get used to hard as hell pedal, but now when I get in a car with boosted breaks im like holy crap your pedal goes to the floor there's something seriously wrong here.
IDK if my legs have gotten super strong or what, but it doesn't seem like its all that hard to me anymore, it just feels like normal now.
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Old 01-15-2015, 07:30 PM   #16
Layvon
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Thanks for the bump!! I have a spare set of pedals that I took out of a parted out car, wasn't looking forward to that task of setting them up like that.

Thats funny about the normal cars now haha.
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Old 04-30-2015, 04:55 PM   #17
Layvon
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Well bump this up for results.

Don't be a ***** and do this mod.

I haven't done any testing from faster than 60mph however I like what I'm feeling so far.

I wish I would have gotten a threaded insert to screw onto the MC though because my pedal is close to the floor and I don't know if I'm getting full pedal throw or not.

Bleeding brakes was easy. Once the air was out of all the lines closest to the mc it didn't take long at all. Will report more findings as they come up.

Things I did learn is only use AN fittings. 1/8npt suck because you cannot get them to line up without risking of being too loose or stripping them.

Layvon


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Old 04-30-2015, 04:59 PM   #18
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I'm glad to hear it's working out well for you so far! Thanks for the hints. I am interested in doing this myself in the coming years, though since the car is still a primary (and since I just got it driving again after being down for a year), I think I'll hold off for a bit.

Keep us updated as you test it at higher speeds, please. I'd like to hear if it continues to work well even under heavy braking.
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Old 05-01-2015, 07:20 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke17 View Post
I would assume this is like driving a old car? From the 60's.....sometimes have to use two feet in traffic and get crazy leg pump?


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Worse. I owned several 60's non power brake cars 2 novas and a chevelle and they had normal pedal effort. The Impreza with manual brakes, even with the pedal redrilled took a lot more effort to stop.
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Old 05-02-2015, 01:01 AM   #20
Layvon
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With a factory master cylinder or aftermarket?

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Old 05-07-2015, 12:48 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layvon View Post
With a factory master cylinder or aftermarket?

Layvon
That was with factory and a smaller one too, 11/16 which should have had less effort than the big ones.
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Old 05-08-2015, 06:26 AM   #22
Layvon
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Hmmm I don't remember what size I got but I think 13 or 15/16"

The only thing I've noticed that I would change is I wish I would have added to the length of the push rod because my pedal travel isn't that long , but it doesn't push hard in my opinion.
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