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Old 11-03-2008, 11:39 PM   #51
morrocco88
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cool! Glad to hear you got the rev limit figured out! I wanted to try but just never got around to it. I will be looking forward to that write up, because the instruction manual makes no sense
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Old 11-04-2008, 07:42 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubba2533 View Post
i thought the emu was unable to do this on our cars?

do you know something no one else does?
Typical piggybacks can't do it. The eManage Ultimate can do it on cars that control redline with a fuel cut. If it's an ignition cut, you're still out of luck, but most cars, and Subarus included, use a fuel cut. Mine is set to 7000 too, although power up there is very limited. I think I'm going to have to get some bigger injectors at least if I ever tune for that high.
-N
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Old 11-04-2008, 04:58 PM   #53
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What he said. What hold time are you using? I have it at 3.6.

I will get on posting my instructions, until then, here is a good explanation:
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=275482
That's what I used to figure it out.

morrocco88-since you have the rest of your car tuned so well, this should be pretty easy.
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Old 11-07-2008, 10:47 AM   #54
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hello all - i have an update. after 2 years of being turbo'd my headgasket went so i rebuilt the stock block with mahle 8.5:1 forged pistons, sti rods, arp head studs, cometic head gaskets, and delta regrind turbo cams. i have recieved a few pm's looking for my base map and i hope that worked well for you guys. im hoping to get a bigger turbo and run 18+ psi on the new block i have. i ended up getting the emu knock setup to work so i could monitor knock and the auto tune (both those subjects morrocco88 covered in his maf based thread)

i am now looking to up my redline and will attempt using the information #522 put up here...ill let you guys know how it goes

Last edited by master c; 11-07-2008 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 11-07-2008, 02:48 PM   #55
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Cool, good luck with it. Just make sure you have consistent, good arf's as you get up to your current redline as you will be carrying those up to your new redline. I hope to have some time in the near future to add some screen shots etc.
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Old 11-10-2008, 12:36 PM   #56
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I was reading through the thread, which is great BTW, and noticed that JP13 which is for the water temp is 1-2 and you had issues with it. I don't know what issues you had with it but when I used it on 1-2 my temp readings were about -35deg off when at full operating temp. So I put it to open and it's +5deg but at least it's in the right ball park. My scangaugeII was reading 186-188deg normal crusing and now it reads 191-193. I'm not sure about the intake temp, whether or not it should be open or closed because I don't really have a benchmark to compare.

Quote:
Originally Posted by #522 View Post
It was B136 pin 29 "atmospheric pressure sensor" on my ECU and on the emu, pins 31 in and 37 out for Analog in/Analog out

Here is what I did (UPDATED 8/19/08):

JP1-(Open)
JP2-(Open)
JP3-(Open)
JP4-(Open)
JP5-(Open)
JP6-(Open)
JP7-(1-2)
JP8-(1-2)
JP9-(Open)
JP10-(Open or 2-3)
JP11-(Open)
JP12-(Open)
JP13-(1-2 Pull up Temp Sensor) you can set the jumper, but the water temp would never work correctly for me, see more info later in thread.
JP14-(1-2 Pull Up Intake Temp Sensor)
OR
JP14-(OPEN knock Sensor) I used this.
JP15-(1-2)
JP16-(you will not use this so what ever you want)
JP17-(you will not use this so what ever you want)
JP18-(Open)
JP19-(Open but you will probably not use this either)
JP20-(Open but you will probably not use this either)

Connector A:
Pin1 - (Ignition Input ch6 - Not used)
Pin2 - (Ignition Input ch5 - Not used)
Pin3 - (Ignition Input ch4 - Not used)
Pin4 - (Ignition Input ch2 - To ecu for cylinders 3/4) 134 pin 26
Pin5 - (Ignition Input ch1 - To ecu for cylinders 1/2) 134 pin 25
Pin6 - (Ignition Output ch6 - Not used)
Pin7 - (Ignition Input ch5 - Not used)
Pin8 - (Ignition Output ch4 - Not used)
Pin9 - (Ignition Output ch3 - Not used)
Pin10 - (Ignition Input ch3 - Not used)
Pin11 - (Ignition Output ch2 -To Ignitor for cylinders 3/4) 134 pin 26
Pin12 - (Ignition Output ch1 -To Ignitor for cylinders 1/2) 134 pin 25

Connector B:
Pin13 - (Not used)
Pin14 - (Not used)
Pin15 - (Airflow Input - To Map sensor signal) 136 pin 5
Pin16 - (TPS - T'ed to tps signal wire) 136 pin 17
Pin17 - (Injector Input Ch1 - To ECU for Injector 1) 134 pin 4
Pin18 - (Injector Input Ch2 - To ECU for Injector 2) 134 pin 13
Pin19 - (Injector Input Ch3 - To ECU for Injector 3) 134 pin 14
Pin20 - (Injector Input Ch4 - To ECU for Injector 4) 134 pin 15
Pin21 - (RPM Optional) 134 pin 30
Pin22 - (Airflow Output - To Map sensor signal wire going to ecu) 136 pin 5
Pin23 - (Not used)
Pin24 - (Ground - T'ed ecu Power Ground) 134 pin 8
Pin25 - (Ignition Power - T'ed to 12volt switched power) 135 pin 7
Pin26 - (Not used)
Pin27 - (Not used)
Pin28 - (Not used)
Pin29 - (Not used)
Pin30 - (Injector Ground - T'ed to Injector Ground) 134 pin 7

Connector C:
Pin31 - (Analog input signal - NOT USED)
Pin32 - (Water Temp)DID NOT GET THIS TO WORK 136 pin 14
Pin33 - (crank signal NOT USED)
Pin34 - (Injector Output Ch1 - To Injector 1) 134 pin 4
Pin35 - (Injector Output Ch2 - To Injector 2) 134 pin 13
Pin36 - (Injector Output Ch3 - To Injector 3) 134 pin 14
Pin37 - (Analog Output signal - NOT USED)
Pin38 - (Not used) Intake Air Temp 136 pin 13
OR
Pin38 - (Knock Sensor) 136 pin 4
Pin39 - (Not used)
Pin40 - (VSS Ouput - To ecu for vss) 135 pin 24
Pin41 - (VSS Input - from vss sensor) 135 pin 24
Pin42 - (Injector Output Ch4 - To Injector 4) 134 pin 15
Pin43 - (Not used)
Pin44 - (Not used)
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Old 11-10-2008, 05:24 PM   #57
master c
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yeah you can run the car without either one of those, but then you cant use auto tune
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Old 11-14-2008, 06:48 PM   #58
#522
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hey rs-jeff, that's actually the problem I had. looks like you got it to work pretty well. If your ECU is seeing +5 that's fine. The other way, 35deg, is bad and your car will think it super cold all the time and then overheat because it will never turn the fans on. I don't have my intake sensor going currently, but I can monitor it with my OBDII scanner.
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Old 11-15-2008, 05:35 PM   #59
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question...

That list has Conn C pin 31 and 37 not used. Its for the Atmospheric pressure sensor so why is it not used?

Another list I have uses those and the PIN 38 which you have as knock is not used.

trying to get the wires sorted out so I can solder these connections.

Can anyone tell me the Needed wires to wire in for 2000 rs
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Old 11-16-2008, 11:51 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeride View Post
question...

That list has Conn C pin 31 and 37 not used. Its for the Atmospheric pressure sensor so why is it not used?

Another list I have uses those and the PIN 38 which you have as knock is not used.

trying to get the wires sorted out so I can solder these connections.

Can anyone tell me the Needed wires to wire in for 2000 rs

Go to northursalia.com and fina the wiring diagram for your car, then use it along with the emanage diagrams to determine which ones to make connections too. You'll have a nest when you're done I can assure youj of that.
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Old 11-16-2008, 01:09 PM   #61
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yea I have tonnes of pages in front of me and I have started to solder the wires like Philsine did with the db25 connections.

BUT

There is like 3-4 different sheets like the one above which have some connections used and some not for the same car.

So I am just trying to sort out which I need and don't need.

Basically can some one just say yes or no for:


Knock
water/temp
analog input signal to atmospheric pressure sensor
RPM
Cam angle

I think most of those are not needed but I want to double check.

Also using stock injectors like noted on page one, I dont have to change the fuel pump..but If i toss in my wrx fuel pump will that mess up fueling at all?



Thanks

Last edited by freeride; 11-16-2008 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 11-16-2008, 05:30 PM   #62
neilschelly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeride View Post
So I am just trying to sort out which I need and don't need.

Basically can some one just say yes or no for:


Knock
water/temp
analog input signal to atmospheric pressure sensor
RPM
Cam angle
You'll want cam angle. I know it's not needed, but I couldn't adjust timing until I had my cam and crank angle sensors hooked up. It's possible I only needed one of them, but you may as well hook up both.

You don't need RPM - you'll use the ignition signal for RPMs.

You probably want analog input signal if you have an atmospheric pressure sensor, like if you're doing a turbo setup where you won't be able to rely on your stock MAP sensor.

Knock for me didn't work - engine went to limp mode as the sensor malfunctioned when it was tapped. You can try and maybe have luck, but if you get knock sensor circuit malfunction codes, you'll know it doesn't work. Water/temp also didn't work for me, but that tip above about switching JP13 above probably would have fixed that for me from the sound of things.

Knock and water temp are only necessary if you're using auto-tune. If you're getting a real tune on a dyno, they will be of no use. I don't know if you need both - I never bothered with auto-tune.

Quote:
Originally Posted by freeride View Post
Also using stock injectors like noted on page one, I dont have to change the fuel pump..but If i toss in my wrx fuel pump will that mess up fueling at all?
Changing fuel pump cannot mess up fuel. The fuel pressure regulator controls fuel pressure. The fuel pump just has to be able to support the flow rate that you're demanding of it, and if you're using the stock injectors, just about any pump should be able to accomodate them.
-N
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Old 11-16-2008, 10:30 PM   #63
rdodger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilschelly View Post
You'll want cam angle. I know it's not needed, but I couldn't adjust timing until I had my cam and crank angle sensors hooked up. It's possible I only needed one of them, but you may as well hook up both.
You couldn't adjust your timing until you hooked up the cam sensor? That's really strange, aren't the regular ignition inputs enough? I don't seem to have any problems with my timing how did you know it wasn't being adjusted?
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Old 11-17-2008, 12:25 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdodger View Post
You couldn't adjust your timing until you hooked up the cam sensor? That's really strange, aren't the regular ignition inputs enough? I don't seem to have any problems with my timing how did you know it wasn't being adjusted?
I knew it wasn't being adjusted because it was on the dyno and you couldn't see any difference between the power output at +6 and -6 across the board. There's no harm in hooking them up, so I figure they should just be hooked up. Now, I can feel a difference, especially in throttle response, when I make adjustments. And my G-Tech confirms the differences. That said, I haven't been back to the roller dyno yet.
-N
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Old 11-23-2008, 02:38 AM   #65
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that is weird, cuz mine doesnt have cam and crank angle hooked up, just the rpm wire (had emanage blue before the ultimate....used the same wire). the only downside is you cant datalog the overall timing, but my scangauge tells me that. very interesting to see that didnt do anything for you. did you try putting an outragously low timing number into the map to see if it bogs the car down?? i can def. tell a difference when tuning mine???

btw, just got my rough maps done for 15 psi on my new setup. the emanage ultimate datalogger is amazing and im having lots of fun cranking up the boost!!
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:46 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by master c View Post
that is weird, cuz mine doesnt have cam and crank angle hooked up, just the rpm wire (had emanage blue before the ultimate....used the same wire). the only downside is you cant datalog the overall timing, but my scangauge tells me that. very interesting to see that didnt do anything for you. did you try putting an outragously low timing number into the map to see if it bogs the car down?? i can def. tell a difference when tuning mine???

btw, just got my rough maps done for 15 psi on my new setup. the emanage ultimate datalogger is amazing and im having lots of fun cranking up the boost!!
Yes, as I said, there was no difference on the dyno between -6 and +6. After hooking up the cam/crank angle sensors, it's a noticeable difference by feel alone. Keep in mind, your build is significantly different from mine.

So the ScanGauge gives you overall timing? I didn't know there was a way to see timing at all. With the waste spark coil packs, timing on the eManage datalogger is all over the place and pretty useless. You're talking about this ScanGauge: http://www.scangauge.com/ or something different? That doesn't mention that it shows timing.
-N
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Old 11-23-2008, 11:39 PM   #67
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scangauge2 is what i use - my greddy informeter i used to have also displayed overall timing. the greddy informeter was faster sampling rate than the scangauge2. hahah when i meant outrageously big number i meant like -20* to see if it did anything, i dunno man thats cool though. the cam and crank angle are the "proper" way to wire it in my eyes but im too lazy to get back under there and rewire it hhaha esp if its working for me. what version of the software are u using?
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:54 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by master c View Post
scangauge2 is what i use - my greddy informeter i used to have also displayed overall timing. the greddy informeter was faster sampling rate than the scangauge2. hahah when i meant outrageously big number i meant like -20* to see if it did anything, i dunno man thats cool though. the cam and crank angle are the "proper" way to wire it in my eyes but im too lazy to get back under there and rewire it hhaha esp if its working for me. what version of the software are u using?
I'm using the latest software versions - maybe 20 degrees would have been more noticeable. Regardless, it's working now, so I'm not interested in troubleshooting it, but being able to see timing would be awesome. I'll have to get an OBD-2 scanner with a fast real-time sampling then. I think a friend of mine's got an appropriate one.
-N
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Old 11-25-2008, 09:54 PM   #69
#522
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so how are you guys tuning, on the road or dyno? I had some issues with my car on the dyno doing 3rd gear pulls from low rpms. The factory ecu didn't like ANY fuel added as the boost would come on, so it would pull fuel like crazy and once it starts that, it will keep doing it all the way to 5000 rpm. on the street when I accelerate from 3000+ rpm, the ecu on does minor adjustments here and there. My cruising/light accel areas are very close to 0 fuel trims, but it still won't go into open loop at those low rpm points.

My front o2 is kind of old, so I was thinking about getting a new one, don't know if it will help, but couldn't hurt I suppose.

So it seems there are a few options for wiring things up. Let me know if you want me to update my pinouts etc.
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Old 11-26-2008, 03:54 PM   #70
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i road tune - i have an open/closed loop monitor and it seems that the ecu stays in closed loop up to about 2 psi on my setup so it runs at ~ 14:1 then drops to my target afr above 2psi. if you try to add fuel down there the trims go to hell. im wondering if the F-Manage would be able to trick the ecu by sending the ecu the signal its getting 14.7:1 then you can adjust whatever you want... (i THINK thats how the fmanage maps work, let me know if you guys know anything about it or if im totally wrong...)

front 02 is extremely vital and you cant go wrong by replacing it in my opinion

what target afr are you guys tuning to? i have mine setup to go to 11.5:1 then taper to 10.7:1 close to redline....pretty conservative....
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Old 11-27-2008, 08:52 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by master c View Post
i road tune - i have an open/closed loop monitor and it seems that the ecu stays in closed loop up to about 2 psi on my setup so it runs at ~ 14:1 then drops to my target afr above 2psi. if you try to add fuel down there the trims go to hell. im wondering if the F-Manage would be able to trick the ecu by sending the ecu the signal its getting 14.7:1 then you can adjust whatever you want... (i THINK thats how the fmanage maps work, let me know if you guys know anything about it or if im totally wrong...)

front 02 is extremely vital and you cant go wrong by replacing it in my opinion

what target afr are you guys tuning to? i have mine setup to go to 11.5:1 then taper to 10.7:1 close to redline....pretty conservative....
10:1 is to rich and your leaving power on the table. Typically 12:1 Is the Ideal AFR for best results. I am sure others will have a different opinon.
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Old 11-27-2008, 06:52 PM   #72
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my injectors are not wired to my emu, and i cant get it to work, runs to rich and i fail emissions, even with stock cats on it... any help?
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Old 11-28-2008, 02:28 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S53089 View Post
my injectors are not wired to my emu, and i cant get it to work, runs to rich and i fail emissions, even with stock cats on it... any help?

what car do you have? what size injector are you running? if you are going to a bigger injector use the scale back function in the i/j setup screen
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Old 11-29-2008, 07:04 PM   #74
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master c-12.5:1 dropping to 11.5: by redline in the 10-14 psi range. When does your emu clamp the MAP sensor? Did you clamp it right at 0 or did you pick a voltage close to it maxing out-4.75 for example? When my car hits "0" psi, it is about 3.86 volts, but most have it clamping at 4.75, so I clamped it there. Never got a clear answer as to what the goal was, clamp at 0 or clamp it as close to maxing out as possible.

Sound like your car goes into open loop faster than mine. Mine shows neg trims way into boost, like 10 psi. either i am letting it add fuel too soon, causing the trims to kick in, or I got other problems.
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Old 12-01-2008, 10:35 PM   #75
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hey guys hows it goin... In around march in thinking about clearing out my storage in AZ(sti block in there). I was thinking about using twin td04(stock wrx turbos). Do you think they would spool by a reasonable rpm, with the sti short block?. The fabrication end is not a problem. Can stock heads handel 7,000 rpm or will you get valve float without upgrade valve spring etc.?
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