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Old 04-17-2016, 09:16 AM   #1
paulsen93
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 395402
Join Date: Jul 2014
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
2015 WRX CVT Prem.
Dark Gray Metallic

Default Paulsen93's 2015 DGM CVT WRX

Hi NASIOC!

After two years of ownership, I figured it was time to start a build thread for my 2015 Dark Gray Metallic CVT WRX with Premium trim




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Mod List:

- SPT Carbon Fiber Trunk Trim

- OLM "Vision" White - Interior Dome lights

- Tinted Tail Lights - Oracal Light Smoke

- Trunk lettering de-badged:
"WRX" relocated to front grille
- Opti-Coat Pro (professionally applied within the first 300 miles)

- 35% Suntek Window Tint all around

- License Plate Frames:
Back: Black "WRX"
Front: Black
- 20% "Eyelid" tint

- Black "WRX" Valve Stem caps

- Perrin Front Strut Brace

- Rokblokz Mud Flaps (Short)

- G1W-H Dash Cam

- Valentine 1 Radar Detector:
Mounted using Mirror Tap and Blendmount
- Genuine Subaru Windshield Sunshade

- Bayson R Front Lip

- 60% Side Badge tint

- 60% tinted Subaru emblems (front and back)

- Prolightz LED License Plate lights

- DRL Resistor delete

- Morimoto:
Bi-Xenon Mini D2S 3.0 "O" Lens Projectors
H11 HD Relay Harness
XB Igniters
XB35 Ballasts
XB 5500k Bulbs
High Beam Splitters (for quad high beam function)
XB LED Fog Lights (Type S)
Retro Rubber Butyl (Black)
- Custom Projector Mounting Brackets (Thanks Spider96!)

- 100mm Rubber Housing Caps

- Diode Dynamics C-Lights
Housing plugged with Hillman 5/16th in. Rubber Grommets - Item #: 423532 - Model #: 884633 (Thanks subydrivor!)
- Tamiya TS-71 "Smoked" headlight chrome

- Philips W5W Blue Vision Sidemarkers

- Paint Matched OLM V1 Vortex Generator

- Avid.1 AV-20s in Gun Metal
18x9.5 (+38mm) 5-114.3
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First cell phone picture taken:



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Halogen bulbs were swapped out for OLM LEDs (Just about all of these have since been replaced):
Low beams: Slightly blue - not very bright overall
High beams: Slightly blue - bright enough, but left me wanting more out of my Highs
Fog Lights: Extremely bright! However, there's no real way to aim them, resulting in blinded oncoming traffic if left on
Interior Dome lights: Extremely bright! I haven't had any issues, but I recall one member's bulbs burning their sockets
License Plate lights: Brighter/Whiter than stock - ultimately replaced for better LEDs
C-Lights: Brighter/Whiter than stock - Upon removal, I noticed they were beginning to burn/darken



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The trunk's lettering was de-badged in preparation for Opti-Coat Pro being applied the following day:




Overall, I'd highly recommend Opti-Coat.

I read a few threads where people posted pictures of stains/blemishes "etched" into the Opti-Coat. Others suggested to simply let it get some sun, and the spots would "disappear".

I thought this was total BS, but I finally got to see it work first hand. I had some bird droppings etched into the paint shortly after having it coated. I tried a few different products to get them out, but was still left with these little reflective blemishes:


After exhausting all options to remove them, I was sort of bummed that the coating didn't protect against them.

The next day, my car had a few hours in the sun. I went back to look for the spots, and like magic . . . they were gone.


Fast forward one year . . .


I had just detailed my car, and found some stubborn water spots on the hood that looked similar to the spots mentioned above.


I thought to myself:
Let's put this sun exposure trick to the test, and document before and after

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In an attempt to reduce the orange of the sidemarkers, I installed 60% "Eyelid" overlays. I found that it wasn't dark enough, so I removed them and installed 20% instead:



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Installed the Perrin Front Strut Tower Brace:
This only provided minor improvement, seeing as the car has very little flex/roll while completely stock.



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Installed Rokblokz (Short version):
Very happy with this purchase. It's extremely satisfying hearing gravel being kicked up under the car, knowing that it's hitting mud flap rather than thin Subaru paint.
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Last edited by paulsen93; 12-03-2016 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:17 AM   #2
paulsen93
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 395402
Join Date: Jul 2014
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
2015 WRX CVT Prem.
Dark Gray Metallic

Default

Installed the Bayson R Front Lip:
Fitment was great, and looks just like the OEM STI lip to the untrained eye!



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Installed 60% tint over the Side Badges to lessen the bright chrome look:



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On the Front and Back Emblems I found that it amplified the "gel-coated" look that was already present, giving them more depth overall. It's a very subtle change, but from the side it makes the blue background almost completely black.





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After running the OLM lights for a while, I began searching for something to replace them. I decided it was time to split my headlights and do a proper HID retrofit.

I began planning out how I wanted the lights to look, doing mock ups in Photoshop:
*Note: this isn't my car, but it has many of the same mods


I decided against blacking out the chrome because I think it hides a lot of interesting details. Instead, to achieve a "smoked" look, I knew I'd need some sort of specialty spray paint. Hours of forum crawling led me to Tamiya Color TS-71 Smoke primarily used on RC cars and props.



These are very small cans, so if you plan on ordering some, I'd recommend at least three. (I nearly used an entire can in testing alone!)

Being "chrome" plated plastic, I figured the de-badged Subaru letters from the trunk would make for a perfect surface to accurately test the spray on:
S - 0 coats
U - 2 coats
B - 3 coats
A - 5 coats
R - 10 coats
U - 20 coats
(The chrome cap piece on the end had about 30 coats)


After looking them over, I decided 5 coats was the sweet spot.

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One last picture of the headlights before taking the retrofit plunge:


Last edited by paulsen93; 04-25-2016 at 11:26 PM.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:18 AM   #3
paulsen93
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 395402
Join Date: Jul 2014
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
2015 WRX CVT Prem.
Dark Gray Metallic

Default

Mini D2S 3.0 HID Retrofit Guide


Ctrl+click for a PDF of the guide:
Mini D2S HID Retrofit Guide PDF

To start off, I want to thank everyone who posted tutorials, reviews, tips and common pitfalls about their experiences retrofitting . . .

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Here are a few links that I familiarized myself with before doing my retrofit:

(If you contributed to these threads/links in any way: Thank you!)

2015 WRX headlamp modification
Pictures/information about headlight removal/painting (Thanks MrRicH!)
How To: Morimoto D2S 3.0 retrofit into 2015 WRX
Pictures/information about retrofitting (Thanks sc00ter!)
The 2015+ HID Retrofit thread
Pictures/information about retrofitting (Thanks pwr4all!)
2015+ Subaru WRX or STI Base Retrofit (Mini D2S 3.0 + Upgrade C Light LEDS + Demon Eyes)
Pictures/information about retrofitting (Thanks 10secdream!)
2015+ WRX Lighting Update
A couple tips for mounting components
How to Remove the Front Bumper from a Subaru WRX STI
Step by step walkthrough on removing the front bumper (with pictures)
Bumper Removal/Morimoto Type S XB LED Installation
Great bumper removal reference + installing XB LED Fog lights
2015 Subaru WRX Headlight Mod How To
This video walks you through all steps of the retrofit + installing custom LED strips (Thanks Cody!)
Diode Dynamics C-Light Install Video

Prolightz C-Light Install Video (Part 1) (Part 2)

SubiSpeed's Retrofit/C-Light Install Video

The Retrofit Source
At the time of this writing, they've recently revamped their install guides. I highly recommend going to the page of each component in the HID kit/accessories and finding their DIY guides
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What you'll need:

- HID Kit:
Bi-Xenon Mini D2S 3.0 "O" Lens Projectors
H11 HD Relay Harness
XB Igniters (D2S)
Ballasts: I chose XB35 to keep temperature as low as possible
Bulbs: I chose XB 5500k for their white appearance
Retro Rubber Butyl: One roll is enough to do both headlights with a little extra left over
High Beam Splitters: If you plan on running quad High Beams
Shrouds: None needed
100mm Rubber Caps: Not required, but recommended in order to fully enclose the new Igniters/backside
-Projector Mounting Brackets: I used 1 of 10 sets created by Spider96
Hopefully Prolightz, Lightwerkz, The Retrofit Source, Diode Dynamics or another lighting company has some for sale by the time you read this
(If no brackets are available, some members have had success drilling new holes for the top two mounting points on the D2S Projectors)
- C-Lights: I chose Diode Dynamics
Hillman 5/16th in. Rubber Grommets - Item #: 423532 - Model #: 884633 (Thanks subydrivor!)
(These can be ordered from Lowe's. *Note: The product pictured on their site is incorrect. Just verify the Item and Model #s are correct)
- Paint: I chose Tamiya Color TS-71 "Smoke"

- Air Compressor: I have a Metro SideKick Blaster that I primarily use for drying after car washes. In this case, it's used to blow away dust/debris at various stages along the way.

- Heat Gun: I used this to heat/re-seal the new Retro Rubber instead of baking the lights in the oven

- Dremel: I used the most basic Dremel 200. It included the necessary attachment bits for removing material from the housing.

- Clamps: (At least 3) Used to ensure a tight re-seal of the headlights

- Needle-Nose Pliers: Helpful for more things than I could count

- Socket Wrench: 10mm and 8mm

- Small, Medium and Large Screwdrivers: Both Phillips and Flat Head are needed

- High Temp. Electrical Tape: Useful for weatherproofing wires/components

- Stainless Steel Screws, Washers and Nuts:
Screws - #6-32 x 3/4 in. (Round Head)
Washers - #6 (Flat Washers)
Nuts - #6-32 (Machine Screw Nuts)
-Zip Ties

- Scissors

- Makeshift Paint Booth: Big enough for both headlights

- Large Storage Container: Used for keeping dust off of components that you wish to keep clean (lenses, projectors, painted surfaces, etc.)

- Saran Wrap: Used to keep dust out of the housings' lenses

- Frog Tape

- Exacto Knife

- Post-Its/Pen

Last edited by paulsen93; 08-03-2016 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:18 AM   #4
paulsen93
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 395402
Join Date: Jul 2014
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
2015 WRX CVT Prem.
Dark Gray Metallic

Default

Bumper Removal:

Numerous links posted above cover the removal of the bumper, so I didn't take many pictures of this step. Before doing this, park 25 ft. away from a flat wall, and use tape to mark the location/height of your stock cutoff.
I highly recommend writing a descriptive Post-It note for each pile of clips, bolts and screws you'll be removing. It's a lot easier than sorting through a huge pile at the end when it comes time to reassemble everything


- Remove the Intake Duct and its 2 pop/twist clips

- Remove the 6 10mm bolts and 3 pop clips by the hood latch, and remove the rubber/plastic liner from the bumper

- Remove both front wheel well pop clips

- Remove the 9 pop clips underneath the bumper:
(1 by each wheel, 2 under each Fog light and 3 in the middle)
- Unseat the three clips holding each side of the bumper to the car (under the Sidemarkers)

- (2 people recommended) Pull the bumper from the front to unseat the clips underneath each headlight
*Note: The Fog light/Turn Signal wires are still attached! Also, it's common for the dark gray foam piece to become detached from the bumper.
- Undo the clips for the Fog lights' wires by depressing the small ridged tabs on the connectors

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Headlight Removal:

- Remove the black plastic braces underneath each light: each one has (2x) 10mm bolts on front, (2x) on side and one pop clip (near 2 outer bolts)

- Remove the single pop clip and 2 bolts fastening each headlight to the chassis
*Note: The light has two pegs (on the flat black tabs) that plug into corresponding holes on the bumper. A twisting gesture works best to bypass them
- Unplug the gray headlight wiring harness to detach the light entirely

- Unplug the High Beams (Tan), Low Beams (Green), C-Light bulbs, Sidemarker bulbs and unscrew the single screw securing the wiring harness to the light (shown below)



- Remove the High Beam, Low Beam and C-Light bulbs

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C-Light Testing:

- Plug in each gray headlight wiring harness to their respective plugs on the car

- Attach T-taps to the Black/Red OEM C-Light wiring and both Blue wires leading to the Turn Signals in the front bumper (If you plan on using the Switchback feature)
My car has no side mirror Turn Signals so I welcomed the additional output of Amber light on each side
- Attach the Drivers to both C-Lights

- Attach the Pigtail Wires to each Driver

- Pull the bumper close to the car, and reattach each fog light Harness clip

- Attach the Pigtail's _______ wire to the ________ OEM wire's T-tap

............................... White ..................... Red
............................... Black ..................... Black
............................... Yellow ................... Blue (Turn Signal)
*Note: The Red wire on DD's C-Lights are the "High" brightness setting, meant to be used with their DRL Harness - It's not recommended to run this mode at night
- Test all Stalk modes, Turn Signals and Hazards (w/ and w/o Parking Brake applied) to ensure they are working as expected

- Mount the Drivers
I chose to zip tie them to the chassis in the following places:
Driver's side:



Passenger side (disregard white arrow):



- Remove the OEM C-Light bulbs and use electrical tape to weatherproof their exposed sockets

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HD Relay Harness Setup:

- Disconnect the C-Lights, unplug the Fog light harness clips and set the front bumper aside

- Remove the Battery's Negative terminal
Press the Brake Pedal to discharge any remaining electricity

Harness -------------- Connects to . . .

"OEM Input" ---------> Left or Right OEM Low Beam plug (the other being unused)
Battery (+) ----------> Positive battery post
Battery (-) -----------> Negative battery post or Any chassis grounding point
Ballast ----------------> Ballast 1
Ballast ----------------> Ballast 2

- Plug the preferred Low Beam input into the Harness (I used the Passenger side)
*Note: Polarity may be reversed
- Mount the Harness using a screw, washer and nut (pictured below)
The metal clip was bent to allow the Harness' wires to hang downward (Thanks for the mounting idea Spider96 and Sc00ter!)
*Note: This location intersects with the gray headlight wiring harness once it's reattached to the back of the headlight. Simply leave the screw loose for now, so the Relay Harness can rotate to clear the plug. Remember to tighten it later once everything is put back together


- Connect the Harness to both Ballasts (the harness plugs into the longer input connections)

- Mount the Ballasts using screws, washers and nuts
On the Passenger side (pictured above) the Ballast's orange bracket was bent 90 degrees so the Ballast could hang with the plugs facing downward
The Driver's side was mounted horizontally using a screw, washer and nut through a hole in the chassis. The other corner of the bracket was slid under the battery's plastic liner to prevent side to side movement. I then wrapped it in Plastic Sheeting for added protection (pictured below):


- Attach the Igniters to the Ballasts' shorter inputs

- Attach the Ground wire
I decided to unplug/remove the DRL Resistor entirely to use its bolt/mounting hole (white arrow) for my ground point. If you choose to do this, remember to tape off the exposed plug.


- The removal of the DRL Resistor allows the lights to operate as follows:
Stalk Position 0: No lights are on
Stalk Position 1: Only the C-Lights and Sidemarkers are on
Stalk Position 2: The C-Lights, Sidemarkers and Low Beams are on
- Insert the Bulbs into the Projectors, and attach the Igniters
Set the Projectors on a flat surface on the car and aim them toward a wall
- Connect the Projector's High Beam plugs to the car (if you plan to use the Bi-Xenon function)

- Attach the (+) Positive Wire to the Battery's Positive terminal (10mm nut)



- Reattach the Battery's Negative Terminal

- Test the High and Low Beam function of the new Projectors
Check their hot spots and cutoff (make sure they're LHD)
- If everything looks good, tape off the unused OEM Low Beam plug

- Zip tie the wires that run along the top of the radiator fans to keep them out of the way
*Note: I zip tied them to one of the two pop clip holes used to secure the Intake Duct (white arrow below)


- The Intake Duct is still very secure despite using only one pop clip


Last edited by paulsen93; 04-17-2016 at 09:26 AM.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:19 AM   #5
paulsen93
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 395402
Join Date: Jul 2014
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
2015 WRX CVT Prem.
Dark Gray Metallic

Default

Headlight Splitting:

- Clean the Storage Container, and use the air compressor to blow out any remaining dust. Place the lid back on to prevent any more dust from entering

- Each headlight has (6x) screws that need to be removed:



- Gradually pry apart the plastic clips along the edge of the headlight
If a clip won't budge, move on to the next one, coming back to it once its neighboring clips are separated
- The OEM sealant can be reused if it is kept intact while separating the lens. I recommend first prying apart the lowest "corner" (closest to the High Beam reflector). Work your way around the seal, carefully prying to break the sealant's grasp on the housing's backing. I found it easier to promote separation by using a screwdriver to prod, and pull the sealant toward the clear lens. This will keep it from bunching up (a necessity if you plan on reusing it)

I chose to replace the OEM sealant altogether, so I removed every bit I could from the clear lens

- Make an effort to keep the lens opening pointed down for the next step (if you are OCD like me about preventing dust from entering your lights)

- Remove the 3 Philips screws that attach the chrome faceplate to the lens
*Note: There's a retaining "clip" (by the Sidemarker) on the chrome faceplate that seats onto a notch inside the clear lens
- Cover the clear lenses in Saran wrap immediately
*Note: If you are resusing the OEM sealant, it will not play nicely with Saran wrap
- Place both covered lenses inside the storage container and re-seal it

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Painting:

Two parts I left unpainted:
The chrome behind the C-Light's Diffuser (for maximum light bounce)
The chrome behind the Sidemarker (for maximum reflectance)
To do so, I removed the Diffuser, taped it off and clipped it back in. I left the Sidemarker clipped in place so it would be painted, while also masking off the chrome behind it. Combined with the 20% eyelid overlays, this resulted in a "best of both worlds" situation: the orange is practically invisible unless light hits them!

- Use Pliers to unseat the 5 retaining clips behind each Diffuser

- Wrap each Diffuser in Frog tape and clip them back in place
Pay close attention to maintaining smooth edges where the Diffuser meets the chrome, to avoid any notches/gaps that could accidentally be left unpainted


- Warm the paint can in a bowl of hot water
*Note: This step is recommended during any downtime between coats
- Use a Flashlight/Sunlight to check for any fingerprints, smudges, etc. on the chrome that is about to be painted. Then, use the air compressor to blow away any dust

- Test spray to clear the line of water, buildup, etc. to avoid splatter. Get a feel for the distance/speed required to minimize splotches. (I recommend painting when it's warm out, preferably with low humidity)

Close up shots of paint texture (the darkness changes substantially depending on light):




- Spray overlapping sections along the faceplate, allowing the spray to leave the piece entirely between passes

- Allow 5-10 minutes of drying time between each coat

- Once painted, allow at least 45 minutes to completely dry

- Unclip the Diffusers (This step may need to happen while the paint is still wet to maintain clean edges)
*Note: The clips will try to scratch the freshly painted surface. If you've unclipped one "arm" of the "C" and are working to unclip the other, be sure to keep an eye on the unclipped one because it likes to rub back and forth on your new paint
- Remove the tape (make sure it didn't leave any adhesive/residue on the Diffusers)



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C-Light Install:

- Disconnect the black, yellow and white wires from the C-Light's plug using a thin paper clip, and reset their metal locking tabs with a safety pin/needle. Set aside the plugs for now.

Disconnecting a Plug similar to DD's C-Lights'
This video was helpful in understanding how to remove wires similar to Diode Dynamics' C-Light connector (Thanks super_rekt!)


- Thread the wires through the C-Light channel's hole seating the C-Light tightly into the groove

- Snap in the Diffuser's clips to secure the C-Light
*Note: I couldn't get the clips at the end of the lower "arm" to stay seated due to the added pressure outward from the C-Light. I can't see this becoming a problem, because the other clips are all firmly in place.

Last edited by paulsen93; 04-30-2016 at 12:28 AM.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:19 AM   #6
paulsen93
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 395402
Join Date: Jul 2014
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
2015 WRX CVT Prem.
Dark Gray Metallic

Default

Projector Fitting:

- Using needle-nosed pliers, depress the two retaining tabs on either side of each black aiming mount. Pulling forward while doing so will allow the chrome piece to slide off past them, leaving the stock Projector's aim untouched. (2 Rectangular and 1 Circular)



- Unscrew the 4 outer screws holding each OEM Projector in

I used custom brackets to mount my projectors, so your install may differ for the next part. I primarily followed this write up:


Morimoto D2S retrofit with Spider96 brackets
Pictures/information about what needs to be Dremeled for the Projectors/Brackets to fit properly (Thanks Spider96!)

- Test fit the new Projectors to determine how much material needs to be removed

- Grind the U-Shaped parts below the lower mounting holes flat so the brackets can sit flush against them

- Mark cut lines with a felt tip pen (red sections below)



- Dremel both sides of the tab and remove material for the High Beam plugs



- Use the air compressor to blow away any Dremel dust from the Projectors/backing, and wipe away any smudges/fingerprints with a micro fiber towel

- Mount the new Projectors, threading the High Beam connectors through first so they can plug in from the back



- Re-seat the chrome backing onto the black aiming mounts

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Projector Aiming:

- Remove the 2 gray rubber caps, and 2 black plastic rings from the Aiming Bolts on the back of the headlights (set these aside permanently)

- Insert the Bulbs into the projectors and hook up the Igniters and High Beam plugs

- Remount the headlights (w/o lenses) using the top 2 8mm Bolts



- Use the 3 Aiming bolts on the back of the headlight to adjust the cutoff on a flat wall 25 ft. away
*Note: The felt liners on either side of the engine bay are held in by two pop clips. Remove them to access the outer aiming bolts with a long flat head screwdriver (Thanks The Fan!)



Here's a brief description of how the Aiming Bolts affect your light output: (Thanks sc00ter!)


Outside Bolt: Tightening this bolt will pull the light output UP and OUT
Loosening it will push the light DOWN and IN
Upper Inside Bolt: Tightening this bolt will pull the light output UP and IN
Loosening it will push the light output DOWN and OUT
Lower Inside Bolt: Tightening this bolt will pull the light output DOWN
Loosening it will push the light output UP

- The upper cutoff line should be below the side mirrors of a car 25-30 ft. in front of you

- As long as you don't have any issues with rotation, it's OK to ballpark the adjustments for now
*Note: Keep in mind the Projectors might need to be adjusted so they sit further forward to meet the chrome faceplate's shroud that is not currently installed
- Test High beams to ensure they are functioning

- Remove the headlights and their Bulbs (Could be hot!)

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Re-sealing the Lights:

- Wipe the Projectors and High Beam Reflectors with a micro fiber towel (LAST CHANCE TO DO SO)

- Cut half inch sections of Retro Rubber to stretch out and fill in the divots where the 5 screws meet the sealant channel in the back of the housing

- Apply Retro Rubber inside the sealant channel, stretching it as you go along until it completes the circuit

- Carefully blend any remaining gaps between segments

- Place the Hillman Rubber Grommets through the C-Light holes in the Housing's Backing. (I used electrical tape to secure them, but silicone would be better insurance against leaks)



- Use the air compressor to blow away any dust from the Housing Backing, Projectors and Painted Faceplates (LAST CHANCE TO DO SO)

- Temporarily cap the Low Beam holes in the back of the Housings with the 100mm Rubber Caps, the High Beam holes with the OEM rubber gaskets and High Beam Bulbs, and the Sidemarker bulb holes with pieces of tape.

- Remove the Saran Wrap from one Lens, and insert its Painted Faceplate making sure to seat the clip by the Sidemarker first
*Note: If the OEM sealant is still on the lens, it will try to grab paint off of your faceplates
- Screw in the 3 Phillips screws to secure the Faceplate in place

- Feed the C-Light wires through the Hillman Rubber Grommets in the Housing's Backing, and sandwich the lens onto the Backing. Press firmly to "pre-seal" the light

- Use the Heat Gun to heat 6'' sections along the edge, applying clamps as you proceed to the next section
*Note: It took me multiple passes to get the entire seal tight. The edge by the Sidemarker needs to be pressed together with your hands, as there are no available edges to clamp
- Re-clip the surrounding tabs as each section is sealed

- One at a time, place a clamp on either side of each screw point that lines the back of the sealant channel. Apply heat to fully compress the section, and replace the screw while it's still warm. Let the section cool before removing the clamps.

- Reconnect both C-Light Plugs (the wires' locking tabs point upward while being fed in)

With the black Clip pointing up:
Left - Black
Middle - Yellow
Right - White
- Check the distance between the new Projectors and the Painted Faceplates, and make adjustments to eliminate any gaps

These pictures are a good example of how the Sidemarkers are practically invisible unless light hits them:




Last edited by paulsen93; 04-18-2016 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:20 AM   #7
paulsen93
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 395402
Join Date: Jul 2014
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Vehicle:
2015 WRX CVT Prem.
Dark Gray Metallic

Default

Rubber Cap/Wiring Install:

- Reattach each headlight's Wiring Harness (w/ the single screw) and plug in the Sidemarker Bulbs

- Tape the OEM C-Light wiring to the back of the headlight to keep it from dangling

- Wipe the bulbs with the provided alcohol swabs and insert them into the Projectors

- Attach the Igniters, and make note of how far their plugs stick out from the back of the headlight

- Use a Sharpie to mark "cut zones" (about the width of a pencil) on the 100mm Rubber Caps

- Use an Exacto knife to cut a straight line up to the "cut zone"
*Note: I used a hole punch to cut the actual hole for the Igniter's plug


- Slide the 100mm Rubber Cap onto the back of the housing, threading the Igniter and High Beam wires through the newly created hole

- Use electrical tape to cover any holes
*Note: I fully weatherproofed the wire's hole after taking this picture. The 100mm Rubber Caps fit very well, but I still used electrical tape- stretched taught- to hold them tightly against the backs of the housings


- Connect the High Beam plugs
Attach the High Beam Splitters now if you are using them
- Connect the Igniters to the Ballasts

- Connect the single Low Beam Input to the Relay Harness

- Attach the Pigtail's _______ wire to the ________ OEM wire's T-tap

............................... White ..................... Red
............................... Black ..................... Black
(hold off on this).... Yellow .................... Blue (Turn Signal)
*Note: At this point I weatherproofed all of the T-taps with electrical tape
- Plug in the gray headlight wiring harness

- Mount each headlights using the 2 8mm bolts and 1 pop clip

- Replace the black plastic braces underneath each light: each one has (2x) 10mm bolts on front, (2x) on side and 1 pop clip (near 2 outer bolts)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Bumper Reassembly:

- Pull the front bumper close, and attach the C-Lights' Turn Signal T-taps (weatherproof them with electrical tape)

- Reattach the Fog Light/Turn Signal Harness clips in the front bumper

- Slide in the Bumper's front clips under the headlights first, then seat the fender's side clips
*Note: Make sure the splash guards underneath (by the wheel wells, and under the fog lights) are seated correctly. Insert the two outer 10mm bolts along the top of the bumper/liner to hold the bumper in place while you get everything situated
- Replace the 9 pop clips underneath the bumper:
(1 by each wheel, 2 under each Fog light and 3 in the middle)
- Replace both front wheel well pop clips

- Replace the rubber/plastic liner and its 6 10mm bolts and 3 pop clips by the hood latch

- Replace the Intake Duct and its 2 pop/twist clips

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


End Result:






I hope this guide has helped you on your retrofit journey!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Here's a before and after dash cam comparison of my previous lighting setup's output at night vs. the D2S projectors:


Last edited by paulsen93; 08-23-2016 at 05:41 AM.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:20 AM   #8
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Picked up the OLM V1 Vortex Generator from Subispeed. The fit is great, but the matte finish scratched very easily and seemed like it would be prone to stains/blemishes after extended sun exposure. To avoid this, I had it painted DGM at a local shop.















After having my Ebay spoiler fall off of my old car, I decided not to use the supplied tape this time around.


Instead, I ordered some 3M VHB (Very High Bond) tape, which I've heard is stronger than metal rivets!





Here is the direct link I ordered from:
3M VHB 5952 double-sided tape - 5 yds. - 1/2 in. - 45 mil.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Also, lightly tinted the Tail Lights with Oracal "Light Smoke"






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jumped on a Black Friday deal for some new wheels!

Avid.1 AV-20s in Gun Metal
18x9.5 5-114.3 (+38mm)



Last edited by paulsen93; 12-03-2016 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:21 AM   #9
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:22 AM   #10
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:22 AM   #11
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Old 04-17-2016, 12:04 PM   #12
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Congrats on starting this thread fellow DGM Premium CVT - You get Bellipotens blessing

Good luck with your thread

If you haven't seen my thread - here is the link
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2628737

Last edited by Bellipotens; 04-20-2016 at 06:53 AM.
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Old 04-17-2016, 07:33 PM   #13
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For blacking out your side markers, is that a tint that you applied to the outside of the headlight housing? Or was that internal?
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Old 04-17-2016, 11:40 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellipotens View Post
Congrats on starting this thread fellow DGM Premium CVT - You get Bellipotens blessing
Haha! I've been inducted into the hall of DGM CVTs!

Quote:
Originally Posted by xDezor View Post
For blacking out your side markers, is that a tint that you applied to the outside of the headlight housing? Or was that internal?
Both! On the outside is a 20% eyelid/sidemarker overlay found here:

Blue Bat Overlays for the 2015 WRX

Inside, the chrome and sidemarker have been given 5 coats of Tamiya TS-71 "smoke" spray.

I've noticed this combination allows the darkness to fluctuate based on how light it is outside.

Last edited by paulsen93; 04-17-2016 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 04-18-2016, 12:35 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulsen93 View Post
Both! On the outside is a 20% eyelid/sidemarker overlay found here:

Blue Bat Overlays for the 2015 WRX

Inside, the chrome and sidemarker have been given 5 coats of Tamiya TS-71 "smoke" spray.

I've noticed this combination allows the darkness to fluctuate based on how light it is outside.
Thanks, I'll check them out!
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Old 04-18-2016, 01:40 AM   #16
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You've convinced me to get a front grill "WRX" badge. Looks great.
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Old 04-18-2016, 10:41 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulsen93 View Post

I did not have this cap on my 2015. You get this 3rd party?
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Old 04-19-2016, 01:37 AM   #18
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Old 04-19-2016, 10:42 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Thanks man. I got my D2S kit from TRS. don't know how I missed that.
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Old 04-19-2016, 12:10 PM   #20
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Not to derail your build thread but since you've gone into such great detail on the retrofit, I figured I'd throw some more info out there for people who might be curious.

As another option, the Prolightz Pro-Fit kit for the 2015 WRX comes with those extended housing caps as well as custom made brackets that allow you to bolt the H1 projector right up with absolutely no dremeling/cutting. The wiring is also already done through the center of the dust caps so that you don't have to cut up the dust caps. This allows the seal in the dust caps to remain locked tight.

Since the H1 projectors are slightly smaller, they also sit much more "flush" in the shroud than the large D2S projectors.

However... the H1 projector cutoff line is not quite as sharp as the D2S projectors and the light output won't go quite as far down the road. But the trade-off is that the H1 projector beam is "wider" so it lights up the sides of the road better than the D2S kit. The light output is excellent with either option. With both kits you'll be lighting up road signs over 1/2 mile away.

Prolightz Pro-Fit (2015 WRX):
http://www.prolightz.com/subaru/impr...ector-kit.html



My light output with the H1 kit:


After installing and using both kits, the way I see it is if you want the absolute best light output and don't mind some dremeling and custom mounting the D2S kit is your best bet. But if you want a true plug and play option that makes the install a peace of cake, then I'd go with the H1 kit from Prolightz. I've been more than happy with both options. You can't really go wrong either way. Price wise, it's pretty much a wash.

Just my $0.02.
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Old 04-19-2016, 02:32 PM   #21
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Great write up! Your base covering is epic lol
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Old 04-19-2016, 08:43 PM   #22
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@sc00ter - Nice addition! I had just received the D2S kit in the mail when the H1 was announced. Needless to say, I was extremely torn between the two.

@Spider96 - Thanks! I had everything typed up in a Word doc in preparation for my retrofit, so I figured why not post it up?
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Old 04-19-2016, 11:17 PM   #23
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Wow you received the "Mr. Belli" blessing!! That is the highest honor you can receive here!! Congrats and well played!!





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Old 04-22-2016, 08:12 PM   #24
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+1 for probably the most thorough retrofit diy I've seen, Good job! For my $.02 I cry a little inside every night I turn my lowbeams on because I sold my entire retrofitted mini d2s lights and started over with the mini h1 kit. The mini h1 is way better than stock but the quality of light output looks cleaner on the mini d2s in my opinion.
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Old 04-24-2016, 07:55 PM   #25
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Awesome write-up. I really like the idea of smoking the chrome parts.
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