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Old 09-03-2008, 07:11 PM   #1
mookies
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Default How did you Cut/Mod your stock turbo heat shield?

Hey everyone,

So I installed my cobb tbe =] and now I need to either buy a new heat shield or mod my stock one. I'd rather save the $$, and I also heard the stock heat shield is better than aftermarket ones...so I want to see how people did theres. Which tools do you guys recommend (hopefully something simple)?

Thanks!

PS: i tried searching but if there are threads around already then sorry! and please post the link so I could just look on over.
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Old 09-03-2008, 07:56 PM   #2
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All you really need is a good set of tin snips,basically just trim about the bottom 1/3 of the heatshield's edge that should get most of it out of the way.At that point just trim a little then test fit over and over untill it fits to your liking.Also you can run a cusco or cobb shield over the stock one for even better heat resistance.Ive had both and the cusco is alot easier to work with,takes about 30 to install the cusco and about 3-5 minutes for the cobb.
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:05 PM   #3
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read the directions on cobbs site , i also threw a few coats of engine enamel spray pain on there
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:26 PM   #4
MB38
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Tin snips, dremel, file, whatever. Look around in your garage.
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:46 PM   #5
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Is keeping the turbo heat sheild (stock/hacked or aftermarket) essential after installed a bigger dp? -- noob question....
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:50 PM   #6
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use tin snips
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleepr56 View Post
Is keeping the turbo heat sheild (stock/hacked or aftermarket) essential after installed a bigger dp? -- noob question....
It's not essential in the way that a driver's seat is not technically essential to drive your car.
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Old 09-04-2008, 12:40 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
It's not essential in the way that a driver's seat is not technically essential to drive your car.
fair enough.
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Old 09-04-2008, 12:45 AM   #9
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I used a dremel and a cut-off wheel. Than de-burred it.
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Old 09-04-2008, 01:30 AM   #10
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I used a jigsaw with a fine-toothed metal blade.. than a file to de-bur it. Never thought about spraying it with some high-temp enamel, sounds like a great idea though.

-shamy.
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Old 09-04-2008, 01:33 AM   #11
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I used voodoo and seven kinds of rubbing salts.
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Old 09-05-2008, 08:32 AM   #12
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I happened to be doing this task whilst fitting my blouch td05h-18g 7cm housing

I used a saw and for bigger chunks I drilled holes progressively until i could bend it off cleanly and file the sharp drilled edges

pictures below outline the culprits to why it wont fit

1. down pipe bellmouth is bigger
2. turbo clip
3. boost actuator to wastegate flap connection

Front Towards Turbo Inlet










Rear facing Down Pipe

^^^Note stock downpipe is half of what it should be to what I had to cut below

Final Product



Diverting from the topic
Life is harder for Right Hand Drive cars
as the steering knuckle + brake booster gets in the way of any twist mount/external waste gate products from the lovely US of A


Last edited by jheeno; 09-05-2008 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 09-05-2008, 04:47 PM   #13
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Wirelessly posted (Mozilla/5.0 (iPhone; U; CPU iPhone OS 2_0_2 like Mac OS X; en-us) AppleWebKit/525.18.1 (KHTML, like Gecko) Version/3.1.1 Mobile/5C1 Safari/525.20)

to tell you the truth, I don't think that for a stock turbo, you even need a heat shield. There are of course many websites like scooby mods, Perrin and I belive even turboxs that has directions. Also, some shop would do it for you at a small cost
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Old 09-05-2008, 05:42 PM   #14
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I disagree. Stock turbos that are being run outside their optimal efficiency range should certainly be shielded off.

Warren

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxSIN View Post
to tell you the truth, I don't think that for a stock turbo, you even need a heat shield. There are of course many websites like scooby mods, Perrin and I belive even turboxs that has directions. Also, some shop would do it for you at a small cost
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Old 09-05-2008, 10:59 PM   #15
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thanks for all the great input. I'm sure having my heat shield in won't have any negative effects so i'm just going to do it. I don't really have any tools necessary to cut that metal....but a lot of you guys are saying tin snips would be the cheapest/most efficient way of doing the job? I think i'll head over to a store sometime and buy some. hmmm
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:02 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mookies View Post
thanks for all the great input. I'm sure having my heat shield in won't have any negative effects so i'm just going to do it. I don't really have any tools necessary to cut that metal....but a lot of you guys are saying tin snips would be the cheapest/most efficient way of doing the job? I think i'll head over to a store sometime and buy some. hmmm
Just go to your local hardware store and ask the guy in the tools department. I'm sure he will have EXACTLY what you need
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spootypuff View Post
Just go to your local hardware store and ask the guy in the tools department. I'm sure he will have EXACTLY what you need
sounds like a plan thanks
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Old 09-07-2008, 06:06 PM   #18
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do tin snips really work? i just went to ace hardware and asked for something to cut it and the guy said tin snips won't do the job...
and how did you guys file it down?
thanks again
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Old 09-07-2008, 06:17 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxSIN View Post
Wirelessly posted (Mozilla/5.0 (iPhone; U; CPU iPhone OS 2_0_2 like Mac OS X; en-us) AppleWebKit/525.18.1 (KHTML, like Gecko) Version/3.1.1 Mobile/5C1 Safari/525.20)

to tell you the truth, I don't think that for a stock turbo, you even need a heat shield. There are of course many websites like scooby mods, Perrin and I belive even turboxs that has directions. Also, some shop would do it for you at a small cost


I'm stage 2 (tdo4). I have a cut stock heatshield, and Cusco over the stocker. If the car came with an oem heatshield (which imo is better than any aftermarket one) from factory, don't you think it's there for a reason. Aftermarket ones are more of a bling factor imo. Run a cut stock one and either (cobb, cusco, or Spt one over the oem one).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wangspeed View Post
I disagree. Stock turbos that are being run outside their optimal efficiency range should certainly be shielded off.

Warren
agreed.

Last edited by rexman2002; 09-07-2008 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 09-07-2008, 06:18 PM   #20
rexman2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mookies View Post
do tin snips really work? i just went to ace hardware and asked for something to cut it and the guy said tin snips won't do the job...
and how did you guys file it down?
thanks again
invest in a dremel. It will come in handy in the future, trust me. Great tool. You can polish, cut, drill, etc, ect..(file, debur).
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Old 09-08-2008, 04:31 AM   #21
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Things I used (it was 9pm at night so didnt get tin snips):
-A drill
-dremel
-big metal file
-pliers

I used the drill and laboriously drilled holes instead of cutting sections. It snapped off easily with pliers.
Metal file to sharpened the drilled section
after the metal file - Dremel to finely file edges
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Old 09-08-2008, 09:53 AM   #22
Good2Go
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I used a sheet metal nibbler and a dremel to smooth it out. Went very fast. Tin snip really aren't up to the task.
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Old 09-08-2008, 08:36 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Good2Go View Post
I used a sheet metal nibbler and a dremel to smooth it out. Went very fast. Tin snip really aren't up to the task.
Tin snips worked fine for me.
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Old 09-08-2008, 08:46 PM   #24
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die-grinder with metal cut off wheel ftw!

Done in under a minute.
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Old 09-08-2008, 10:51 PM   #25
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Pneumatic nibbler and a file to deburr took 5minutes
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