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Old 04-11-2014, 09:17 PM   #1
sebhockey
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Default 2015 WRX speaker info

Thought I would add more info to this post since I keep seeing the same questions over and over...

Stock speaker sizes and locations:
-Front and Rear speakers located in doors, 6.5"
-Tweeters located in dash under grills, have built in crossovers

Kicker Upgrade:
-H631SFJ000 for speakers
-H631SFJ100 for tweeters
-H630SFJ200 for subwoofer

Speaker Adapters:
-Tweeters use same adapters as 2012+ Impreza and Crosstrek, depending on the adapter and tweeter you may need to trim the bottom of the grill to make it fit.
-Door speakers use same adapters as 2012+ Impreza and Crosstrek
-There are a few sources for compatible spacers, I will not recommend any, but one has been active in this thread.

Wiring adapters if you don't want to run your own wire or cut the stock connectors off:
-Metra 71-035LC - note: has 12" leads
-Metra 72-8104 - note: same connector as above but shorter leads, not sure on length

Notes:
-Definitely invest in a set of plastic trim panel tools, you will need them for various parts of the install. You will thank yourself later with the lack of damage to your interior.
-Be aware that there are small felt/foam washers for each door panel clip. If you want to minimize rattles make sure they get back in there. On mine all but one clip had the washer, normally the forward top one did not.
-If installing components up front or running new speaker wire easiest method is to start in the door and push the wire through the loom to the cabin. Cable lube or soap is your friend here.


Details about my install:
Front speakers: Rockford Fosgate Power T165-S (components)
Rear speakers: Rockford Fosgate Power T152 (2 way)
Adapters front, rear, tweeter from car speaker adapters.com for XV Crosstrek
Metra 71-035LC harness adapters
various lengths of 16awg speaker wire for component install along with crimp connectors for attaching to speakers.
Butyl rope for vibration dampening between adapters and door panel.
Zip ties for cable dressing
Electrical tape for cleaning up loom after routing wires to tweeter

I opted to shave the inside of the grills for the tweeters, otherwise fitment was perfect. I chose to go with 5.25 speakers in the back since these came out of my 07 wrx and I had just recently purchased them a few months back.
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Last edited by sebhockey; 05-15-2014 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 04-11-2014, 10:44 PM   #2
thill
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Can you also post the make and model number of the stock head unit. I am assuming it is the same as the 2014 WRX, a Clarion model.
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Old 04-11-2014, 10:54 PM   #3
Mrlaigle
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Basically the same except it has hd radio.

I'll upload a picture that was sent to me. It has most the same plugs except the where the 14 had a brown plug, this one is a black plug.
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Old 04-13-2014, 11:31 AM   #4
SLegacy99
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How is the stock HU? I couldn't justify the $2500 for the Nav/HK. Hoping to upgrade to an Alpine unit, but I don't want to give up my steering wheel controls either.
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Old 04-13-2014, 11:55 AM   #5
KamekazeSTI
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You realize they make CAN bus converters for certain HU types just so you can retain your steering wheel controls right? Just make sure the HU you chose has CAN bus control and get the module. Its easy enough to install yourself even.
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:48 AM   #6
Jacksonville's Donatello
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I am curious as well as to how the Stock Unit on a 2015 wrx without the 2500 dollar package for Nav/Hk sounds? IMO the stock system in my 2006 when i first got the car was horrible and blew speakers in no time. I ended up replacing all speakers and threw a 12 in the trunk.
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Old 04-15-2014, 01:25 PM   #7
northernhustle
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Do you think that the 2015 wrx sti harmon kardon sound system is worth the extra cost of the sport-tech or would it be cheaper to go for an aftermarket sound system of similar or better quality (including cost of install)?
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Old 04-15-2014, 01:49 PM   #8
stevesnow
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Seems like this thread has already got it going…

I wanted to make a thread for all of those that wanted the Harmon Kardon system in their 2015 WRX’s but just couldn’t justify spending the extra $4,200(base to premium + H/K) or more to get the premium or limited and then the H/K upgrade.

Post info/pics of your 2015 WRX’s and their custom sound system and we’ll share and help each other through the process of getting better sound!

About Me:
I ordered a 2015 WRX Premium + CVT on 3/31 and I didn't want to shell out an extra ~$1,500 for the limited then ~$2,500 for the H/K PKG (JUST TO GET THE UPGRADED SOUND SYSTEM).... So I am going to take about $700-$1,000 and put my own system in. I debated on getting the kicker sub just because they would do the harness and wire to the battery and it was nicely tucked & secured in the side of the trunk but for around $500 not worth it IMO... but with that I would have just been able to swap out the tweeters and speakers very easily!!!

For other DIY'ers doing their own stereos:
Here are some links to Subaru install instructions for the (KICKER) speakers, tweeters and subs. Will be great to know where the clips and screws are even if you’re not buying and using the Kicker products!!

http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/638...H630SFG400.pdf

http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/724...zaSpeakers.pdf

http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/724...zaTweeters.pdf

My upgrade plans:

Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" Car Audio Component System (Pair) (For 2 Front Speakers and 2 Tweeters)

Alpine SPR-60 6-1/2" Coaxial 2-Way Type-R Speaker Set (For 2 Rear Speakers)

Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 10-Inch
Subwoofer Enclosure (For Trunk (LOL) of course)

I’m not planning on getting a new HU or amping the speakers at the moment, I think this should be enough to get what I want. Also thinking of Dynamat in the doors and trunk. (Chevron pattern to cover 30% of surface area) not doing 100% coverage for weight and cost reasons. I will still be able to get 95% of the benefit with 30% coverage.

Here are my questions:
- Finding the best way to mount sub on side of trunk so that it doesn’t slide around?
- Where to put sub wire? (firewall into the battery area)
- Where to put amp? (Under the passenger seat?)
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Old 04-15-2014, 01:59 PM   #9
Raven Logics
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Does anyone know the output power of the stock Clarion head unit? I am not in a position to splash out on a full setup right now but am thinking about changing the speakers out for a set of JLs. Ideally I'd like the C2 but I am not sure if the HU will be powerful enough to drive them, and the TR isn't as nice for a long-term plan. I don't really need too much volume, but I would like to hear a little clearer everything than on the stock speakers. Maybe I just need to drop the desire to keep the MFD/wheel integration and replace the HU first. Too many options, LOL.

Quote:
Originally Posted by northernhustle View Post
Do you think that the 2015 wrx sti harmon kardon sound system is worth the extra cost of the sport-tech or would it be cheaper to go for an aftermarket sound system of similar or better quality (including cost of install)?
If you think you'd appreciate the leather interior then it's a good upgrade (I don't like leather). A fully fitted quality HU/speaker/amp/sub upgrade is probably going to cost well over $2k (a JL amp and C2 speaker upgrade alone will cost me over $1.5k), but you will most likely exceed the HK quality with that. I would suggest comparing the two systems at the dealership to see if the difference is worth it to you. Of course if you are fitting the system yourself then that will keep the cost down.

Last edited by Raven Logics; 04-15-2014 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 04-15-2014, 02:34 PM   #10
thill
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I would expect about 8-10 watts rms from the stock head unit. It is not powerful and would have a hard time powering speakers if you want to play them loud.

I have an amp and JL C5-650's I am planning on adding to the stock head unit to see how it sounds.

Raven Logics if you want to do something on a budget and not add an amp something like these component speakers for the doors should still be a nice upgrade:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...TS-A1605C.html

They are pretty sensitive meaning you don't need a lot of power to drive them and I have read and heard good things about them from the DIY Mobile forums.

At that price, you could add a cheap 2 channel amp (under $100) to power them down the road if you still think they are lacking.
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Old 04-15-2014, 02:36 PM   #11
thill
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I am planning to put my amp under my passenger seat. I have a Rockford Fosgate Punch amp that is pretty small so it fits easy.
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Old 04-15-2014, 02:48 PM   #12
Raven Logics
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thill View Post
I would expect about 8-10 watts rms from the stock head unit. It is not powerful and would have a hard time powering speakers if you want to play them loud.

I have an amp and JL C5-650's I am planning on adding to the stock head unit to see how it sounds.

Raven Logics if you want to do something on a budget and not add an amp something like these component speakers for the doors should still be a nice upgrade:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...TS-A1605C.html

They are pretty sensitive meaning you don't need a lot of power to drive them and I have read and heard good things about them from the DIY Mobile forums.

At that price, you could add a cheap 2 channel amp (under $100) to power them down the road if you still think they are lacking.
I'd rather get the better speakers if I am going to add an amp anyway. I just checked - the TR is recommended for 10W+ output and the C2 for 15W+. Let us know how the C5s sound when installed
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Old 04-15-2014, 02:54 PM   #13
thill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raven Logics View Post
I'd rather get the better speakers if I am going to add an amp anyway. I just checked - the TR is recommended for 10W+ output and the C2 for 15W+. Let us know how the C5s sound when installed
The C5's are installed in my current car with the Rockford amp. They sound amazing. I am spoiled now. They are actually at the audio shop right now getting yanked out of my WRX along with my amp and the stock stuff put back in so I can put the C5's and the amp in my 2015 WRX.

I have decided to keep the stock head unit for awhile and see how it sounds with the amp. I have to save money somewhere

The C2's are good speakers for the money. The problem with the C5's is that they need power to really sound good. On a budget the C2's will sound just as good as the C5's unless you feed the C5's a solid 75-100+ watts rms per channel.

Also, spend a little money and sound deaden the doors too. It makes a difference.
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Old 04-15-2014, 02:57 PM   #14
Raven Logics
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thill View Post
The C2's are good speakers for the money. The problem with the C5's is that they need power to really sound good. On a budget the C2's will sound just as good as the C5's unless you feed the C5's a solid 75-100+ watts rms per channel.
What do you think would happen if I try to run the C2's off the stock head unit for now? Is it likely to make the sound worse or better? I am aware that there will be some volume loss, but the idea is to look for a better sound quality over all EQ ranges.
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:01 PM   #15
thill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raven Logics View Post
What do you think would happen if I try to run the C2's off the stock head unit for now? Is it likely to make the sound worse or better? I am aware that there will be some volume loss, but the idea is to look for a better sound quality over all EQ ranges.
I think they will most likely sound better than the stock speakers. The stock tweeter is not very good IMHO, so the C2 tweeter should sound better. You just won't get the most of the C2's until you feed them more power. But there is nothing wrong with starting with the speakers first then adding more power.
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:33 PM   #16
sebhockey
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Details about my install:

Front speakers: Rockford Fosgate Power T165-S (components)
Rear speakers: Rockford Fosgate Power T152 (2 way)
Adapters front, rear, tweet from car speaker adapters.com for XV Crosstrek
Metra 71-035LC harness adapters
various lengths of 16awg speaker wire for component install along with crimp connectors for attaching to speakers.
Butyl rope for vibration dampening between adapters and door panel.

I opted to shave the inside of the grills for the tweeters, otherwise fitment was perfect. I chose to go with 5.25 speakers in the back since these came out of my 07 wrx and I had just recently purchased them a few months back.

Be aware that there are small felt/foam washers for each door panel clip. If you want to minimize rattles make sure they get back in there. On mine all but one clip had the washer, normally the forward top one did not.

I'm not going to go into the quality of the stock head unit much as there are already a couple other threads for that, only in that equalizer settings are not customizable enough. I do need to tweek a bit more, but I do not plan to have the stock head unit in much longer. Sound quality is crisper and shows off the faults of this head unit.
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:43 PM   #17
sebhockey
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DGM

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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevesnow View Post
Seems like this thread has already got it going…

I wanted to make a thread for all of those that wanted the Harmon Kardon system in their 2015 WRX’s but just couldn’t justify spending the extra $4,200(base to premium + H/K) or more to get the premium or limited and then the H/K upgrade.

Post info/pics of your 2015 WRX’s and their custom sound system and we’ll share and help each other through the process of getting better sound!

About Me:
I ordered a 2015 WRX Premium + CVT on 3/31 and I didn't want to shell out an extra ~$1,500 for the limited then ~$2,500 for the H/K PKG (JUST TO GET THE UPGRADED SOUND SYSTEM).... So I am going to take about $700-$1,000 and put my own system in. I debated on getting the kicker sub just because they would do the harness and wire to the battery and it was nicely tucked & secured in the side of the trunk but for around $500 not worth it IMO... but with that I would have just been able to swap out the tweeters and speakers very easily!!!

For other DIY'ers doing their own stereos:
Here are some links to Subaru install instructions for the (KICKER) speakers, tweeters and subs. Will be great to know where the clips and screws are even if you’re not buying and using the Kicker products!!

http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/638...H630SFG400.pdf

http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/724...zaSpeakers.pdf

http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/724...zaTweeters.pdf

My upgrade plans:

Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" Car Audio Component System (Pair) (For 2 Front Speakers and 2 Tweeters)

Alpine SPR-60 6-1/2" Coaxial 2-Way Type-R Speaker Set (For 2 Rear Speakers)

Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 10-Inch
Subwoofer Enclosure (For Trunk (LOL) of course)

I’m not planning on getting a new HU or amping the speakers at the moment, I think this should be enough to get what I want. Also thinking of Dynamat in the doors and trunk. (Chevron pattern to cover 30% of surface area) not doing 100% coverage for weight and cost reasons. I will still be able to get 95% of the benefit with 30% coverage.

Here are my questions:
- Finding the best way to mount sub on side of trunk so that it doesn’t slide around?
- Where to put sub wire? (firewall into the battery area)
- Where to put amp? (Under the passenger seat?)
Regarding Dynamat, you may want to look inside the doors first. There is a large chunk of sound deadening on the outer body panel already and most of the interior panel is not flat, so dynamat may not be the best choice. As the car sits stock, the doors might be where you want them already, I'm glad I held off on buying sound deadening because they are already pretty well covered. I think some butyl rope between the crash beams and outer panel and some MLV between the door card and door interior would be a better choice of time and money.
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:27 AM   #18
stevesnow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebhockey View Post
Regarding Dynamat, you may want to look inside the doors first. There is a large chunk of sound deadening on the outer body panel already and most of the interior panel is not flat, so dynamat may not be the best choice. As the car sits stock, the doors might be where you want them already, I'm glad I held off on buying sound deadening because they are already pretty well covered. I think some butyl rope between the crash beams and outer panel and some MLV between the door card and door interior would be a better choice of time and money.
Yeah I will probably still buy dynamat and after I open it up I will decide and maybe return if I see what you are saying. Thanks for the info!... However now I am thinking about amping the speakers and had a question about running new speaker wire from the amp to the speakers... (I will have Speakers that are 100-110 RMS per speaker and an amp to match):

Do I need to run new 14-16gauge wire?
Or is the stock wire good enough?
What gauge is the stock wire in the 15 WRX?
And if I should run new wire, how hard was it for you to get it through the grommet in the door, do you have any tricks? and did you send new wire to the tweeters in the front as well?

Also, can you define "shave the inside of the grill" more for the tweeters, not exactly sure what you mean? Are they that thick that you can trim them down?
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Old 04-16-2014, 02:53 PM   #19
Tabbee
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Not sure if this is the correct thread, but thought I would try before making a new one, does anyone know if the kicker trunk sub from the 2014 STI will fit the new 2015 STI? I have seen pictures of it and it looks almost identical, but I'd like to know for sure.

Thanks
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Old 04-16-2014, 05:04 PM   #20
stevesnow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabbee View Post
Not sure if this is the correct thread, but thought I would try before making a new one, does anyone know if the kicker trunk sub from the 2014 STI will fit the new 2015 STI? I have seen pictures of it and it looks almost identical, but I'd like to know for sure.

Thanks
Same part number on subaru parts website.... I believe it would as long as it is a 2014 sedan! Lol

Actually disregard this post... I am not sure now
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Old 04-16-2014, 06:15 PM   #21
thill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevesnow View Post
Same part number on subaru parts website.... I believe it would as long as it is a 2014 sedan! Lol

Actually disregard this post... I am not sure now
No, I think you are right they are the exact same part number per Subaru Geniune Parts website.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:08 PM   #22
sebhockey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevesnow View Post
Yeah I will probably still buy dynamat and after I open it up I will decide and maybe return if I see what you are saying. Thanks for the info!... However now I am thinking about amping the speakers and had a question about running new speaker wire from the amp to the speakers... (I will have Speakers that are 100-110 RMS per speaker and an amp to match):

Do I need to run new 14-16gauge wire?
Or is the stock wire good enough?
What gauge is the stock wire in the 15 WRX?
And if I should run new wire, how hard was it for you to get it through the grommet in the door, do you have any tricks? and did you send new wire to the tweeters in the front as well?

Also, can you define "shave the inside of the grill" more for the tweeters, not exactly sure what you mean? Are they that thick that you can trim them down?
If you are running 100 W RMS I would definately consider running new speaker wire. While I did not cut or remove insulation from the stock wire it looked to be about 18 or 20 awg and would be sufficient for my install of about 65 W RMS when I get around to installing my head unit and amp.

For my install I put the crossovers in the door attached to the wire adapter listed above. I ran new 16awg from there to to my tweeters and mids, so I only ended up running one wire out the door. For getting the wire through I poked through the cable loom on the door side, put a little soap (cable lube works great too, but I didn't want to buy an entire bottle for one project or raid my work supply, just don't use oil or grease unless you want a mess) on the end of the new wire and just pushed it through from the door side. With the kick plate removed it will come out right there inside the cabin. With the 16awg wire and soaped up it went through very easy. After I ran it up to the tweeters (I just dropped another piece of wire down and used it to pull the wire up) I cut to length of where I was installing crossover and taped up the loom about 2 inches in total to keep water out.

About the tweeter grill, they are thick enough they can be ground down a little bit on the inside and not be noticeable on the outside. Most adapters that are not metal will be fairly thick making even flush mount tweeters prevent the grill from seating all the way down. I chose to shave the inside of the grill vice the adapter to prevent cracking the adapter. The grill is still fairly sturdy.

I highly suggest investing in non metal trim panel removal tools for this car if you haven't already. Most the panels fit tightly with the soft touch materials everywhere, so the trim panels tools come in handy for not damaging stuff.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:13 PM   #23
sebhockey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabbee View Post
Not sure if this is the correct thread, but thought I would try before making a new one, does anyone know if the kicker trunk sub from the 2014 STI will fit the new 2015 STI? I have seen pictures of it and it looks almost identical, but I'd like to know for sure.

Thanks
Sorry, but the 2014 WRX/STI sub will not fit. The 2012+ Impreza sedan sub will. 2014 PN is H630SFG300 while 2015 PN is H630SFJ300.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:43 PM   #24
Subie FA20
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Any ideas if the kicker upgrade speakers/tweeters will be worth getting since it's a plug and play? I'm waiting for the 15 to come in. On my old 12 the oem audio was terrible until I put in the forester hu and even then was mediocre.
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Old 04-16-2014, 09:59 PM   #25
sebhockey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNE2040 View Post
Any ideas if the kicker upgrade speakers/tweeters will be worth getting since it's a plug and play? I'm waiting for the 15 to come in. On my old 12 the oem audio was terrible until I put in the forester hu and even then was mediocre.
Dunno, haven't heard the kicker upgrade.
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