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Old 02-11-2009, 09:56 PM   #26
full of dents
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the seals were expensive though. $9.50 each! then $4 for the transfer case o-ring
oh well i needed them
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Old 02-16-2009, 09:57 PM   #27
full of dents
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Cool

ok an update on my work

not to undermine waveoff or anything, because with out the write up i would have never tackled this little problem i had...but, here is what i did instead of the first part of step 3.

i didnt undo the 3 bolts on top of the strut. i actually just removed the 2 big bolts that hold the base of the strut to the hub, then followed the rest of step 3. by doing this you can just grab the hub and pull it straight down. that will remove the axle right from the stub on the transfer case.
i used the roll pin hole on the axle stub and the axle itself to re-align everything.

also, that damn castle nut on the steering arm....be careful!!! i wrecked my driver side one and took better care with the passenger side one. after i removed the cotter pin i used a 19mm socket on a ratchet to break it loose. after i back the nut up about a half turn i used the hammer to give a good smack.
my mistake on the driver side, i removed the nut to much and damaged the threads. what a bitch to fix with out replacing the entire part.

i broke off one of the rays on the side retainer because i wasnt paying attention when using the screw driver and hammer. make sure to alternate when removing the retainer.

prices have gone up a little (in my area). seal was $9.10 each and o-ring for side retainer was $4.30

all in all. this write up was a HUGE help. lets just say, i used it to replace an axle, and replace an axle seal. NO MORE 90W ON MY GARAGE FLOOR!

thanks again for the write up
Jay
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Old 02-16-2009, 10:10 PM   #28
WeldingHank
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you can make it even easier and just unbolt the top strut bolt and loosen the lower one, and the shaft will pop right out of the trans. Thats how i did my clutch.
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Old 02-16-2009, 11:23 PM   #29
waveoff
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No hard feelings here! If anyone has a simpler way of doing something by all means speak up!
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Old 03-24-2009, 07:42 AM   #30
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hey waveoff,

When you were doing the seal replacement, did you notice any play in the front axle stubs? My green axle hubs have some wiggle room, its only slight, but very noticeable (I know some play side-side is normal, but mine move up/down slightly as well). I don't have any leaks but I am wondering;

-Did you notice some play in your axle stubs during the replacement?

-From your experience, do you think the wiggle room could be indicative of a bad (or soon to be bad) seal?

The car runs great, its just I noticed this slop in the stubs and it has been getting at the back of my head ever since. Don't mean to thread jack but here is my OP for reference: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...php?p=25614958
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Old 03-25-2009, 02:04 PM   #31
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I think a little play is normal. If it was super tight, it would nearly impossible to get the axles into the tranny.
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Old 03-25-2009, 04:42 PM   #32
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Thanks for the write up. I discovered that my 06 WRX had a leaky axle seal while performing my last oil change. The dealer took care of mine under warranty but this will be a good reference for the next time.
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Old 03-25-2009, 10:03 PM   #33
thejean
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When I was replacing axles I noticed one of the springs in the seal was out and had to take out the seal in order to put it back in. This thread helped me out a lot. Thx.
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Old 03-31-2009, 07:26 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubbleDTD View Post
hey waveoff,

When you were doing the seal replacement, did you notice any play in the front axle stubs? My green axle hubs have some wiggle room, its only slight, but very noticeable (I know some play side-side is normal, but mine move up/down slightly as well). I don't have any leaks but I am wondering;

-Did you notice some play in your axle stubs during the replacement?

-From your experience, do you think the wiggle room could be indicative of a bad (or soon to be bad) seal?

The car runs great, its just I noticed this slop in the stubs and it has been getting at the back of my head ever since. Don't mean to thread jack but here is my OP for reference: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...php?p=25614958
Like thejean said, I think a little play is normal. Mine had some side-to-side play as well as up and down movement before and after the seal replacement. The part of the seal that contacts the axle stub is very pliable so if you had play with a bad seal you'll still have play with a new seal. I think you're ok.
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Old 05-23-2009, 10:09 PM   #35
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Default Quick Question in Reference to the reinstall

Is it safe to use the same Spring Pin during reinstall? Or do you need to purchase a new one? I have to do a tranny swap this weekend, and no parts stores open...
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Old 05-23-2009, 11:08 PM   #36
thejean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheel Man View Post
Is it safe to use the same Spring Pin during reinstall? Or do you need to purchase a new one? I have to do a tranny swap this weekend, and no parts stores open...
I reused mine. Hasn't fallen out yet (but it's only been a few weeks). If you're real concerned, drive something down the middle to open it up a bit. In all honesty, they go back in pretty tight.
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Old 05-24-2009, 11:17 AM   #37
full of dents
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i reused both of mine. been a few months no issues. dude at napa even said it was no big deal to reuse them
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Old 03-31-2010, 04:31 PM   #38
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Does anyone know if you can use this same procedure and part numbers for a version 7 STI 6 speed? All of it looks the same and I am using it my 02 wrx with my stock wrx axles.
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Old 03-31-2010, 08:31 PM   #39
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i would recomend if you do not have to, do NOT undo the carrier bearing adjuster. It not only adjust backlash but also pinion depth. If the gears start riding in a different place bad things will happen. And iff backlash is not set to .00051 to .00071 (on 04 wrx) you will have clunks and whines and all other sorts of poo.

For the people who have stubless, if i remember correctly i think you can pull them out directly without removing that part. Its been awhile (last clutch change a few years ago) since i did this. However i will be getting the seals in this weekend and tackling it on the fresh trans. Sad part is last time i was able to get the part off an older impreza model at the parts store. But no more . Seems like part is dealer item only.

I found both fronts for my 04 for $7.xx for the pair from flat iron tuning. I am doing the rear as well which were $12.xx for the pair but the rear diff is off a 07 FXT (just replaced 1-2 with LGT, upgraded to dual cone 1st syncro, ring and pinion, center diff and rear diff to put 4.444s in)
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:02 PM   #40
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Why are my CV boots not pulling completely off (02 WRX)? I feels like they are free spinning off the hub but they wont move off so i can change my seals and finish with my clutch replacement.
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Old 07-15-2010, 08:50 AM   #41
BlackJavaPearl04
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Wow I really appreciate this thread! as I just found out that mine is leaking too ...in the same spot. thanks for the write up guy
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Old 07-15-2010, 10:21 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by full of dents View Post
i would imagine i need an alignment after this right?
no...
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Old 07-15-2010, 12:53 PM   #43
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^^So long as you don't unbolt the strut itself or turn the steering arms out of wack....you wont need one
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Old 07-15-2010, 12:56 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by full of dents View Post
the seals were expensive though. $9.50 each! then $4 for the transfer case o-ring
oh well i needed them
Wow you got ripped....paid 8.27 for both at a local subaru dealer...
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Old 08-27-2010, 03:05 PM   #45
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Do new seals come with a new tension spring? I would hope so, Honda seals do
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Old 09-12-2010, 09:48 AM   #46
waveoff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apex32 View Post
Do new seals come with a new tension spring? I would hope so, Honda seals do
Yes, the spring comes with the new seal.
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Old 09-12-2010, 09:54 AM   #47
waveoff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobdude View Post
i would recomend if you do not have to, do NOT undo the carrier bearing adjuster. It not only adjust backlash but also pinion depth. If the gears start riding in a different place bad things will happen. And iff backlash is not set to .00051 to .00071 (on 04 wrx) you will have clunks and whines and all other sorts of poo.
The '02-'03 WRX's are stubbed and you HAVE TO remove the carrier bearing adjuster to change the seal. It's obvious in the pictures. If one marks where the adjuster is before removal it's a non-issue when putting it back on. Taking a picture of everything before removal sometimes helps when you go to put everything back together.
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:50 PM   #48
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actually the only bolt you need to undo the suspension is the 14mm holding the balljoint into the knuckle, pry the ball joint out once the bolt is out and that is it, you will be able to swivel the front suspension enough to get the axle out with no problem,you don t need to touch the stut, or the steering, ifyou are pulling the trans place a small piece of 2x4 between the spindle and the lower control arm to keep the axle pulled out of the way
You can change a cv axle in 10 minutes
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Old 09-25-2010, 08:59 PM   #49
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Default How to put seal springs back in?

Quote:
When I was replacing axles I noticed one of the springs in the seal was out and had to take out the seal in order to put it back in. This thread helped me out a lot. Thx.
I have the same problem as above on a stubless '04 wagon. Is it possible to replace the spring for the seals without taking the differential side retainers off? From what it seems the spring goes on the inside and I can't seem to get it to seat right now. Does the spring go on the inside?

My thought was either pulling the seals out or removing the differential side retainers.

Will the process of removing the seal (without removing the retainer) damage it so that it can't be used again? Is it wiser to take the retainer off so that I can re-seat the spring?
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Old 09-26-2010, 04:24 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwilk

I have the same problem as above on a stubless '04 wagon. Is it possible to replace the spring for the seals without taking the differential side retainers off? From what it seems the spring goes on the inside and I can't seem to get it to seat right now. Does the spring go on the inside?

My thought was either pulling the seals out or removing the differential side retainers.

Will the process of removing the seal (without removing the retainer) damage it so that it can't be used again? Is it wiser to take the retainer off so that I can re-seat the spring?
Just finished unscrewing the retainers. My springs did go on the inside.

EDIT:
If you are looking for something to plug the holes where the axles go pick up a couple 1-11/16x1-13/32 rubber stoppers for a couple bucks each. They fit perfectly.

Last edited by pwilk; 10-16-2010 at 01:54 PM. Reason: Added plug info
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