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Old 10-04-2008, 06:18 PM   #1
Danny Boy
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'99 Hybrid RS Coupe
don't-pull-me-over Silver

Default Help Needed -- after clutch job, clutch goes to the floor

The motor is in the car and it runs after pulling it to do FW, clutch, heads, and cams.

No CEL's either which is great.

Big problem though -- the clutch pedal drops to the floor when you press it and then doesn't come back up. I tried bleeding the slave clutch cylinder, but that didn't help and there's no air in the system.

I'm at a total loss as for how to proceed from here. I really really hope that I don't have to pull the motor again. Can anyone help me out?

I can add pictures if needed.


Edit: One thing to add -- there is a gap between the clutch fork and the pin coming out of the slave cylinder.
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Old 10-04-2008, 07:59 PM   #2
swiftwrx06
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After i did my clutch change I had to pump the clutch pedal a few times before it started working. The first time i pushed it in after the slave was hooked back up it went right to the floor and stayed there, you just have to keep pushing and pulling it untill you start to feel pressure on it. When you do this its also a good idea to make sure the pin on the slave cylinder aligns with the indentation on the clutch fork as it moves out.
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:07 AM   #3
Danny Boy
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There doesn't feel to be any pressure in the system. I'll lay out exactly what happened to see if that helps anyone.


1. Install motor, go to start the car, and push in the clutch.
2. Clutch goes all the way in and comes back ~2 inches off the floor then stops. I lift this up by hand.
3. Pump it ~10 times.
4. Bleed clutch slave cylinder. Minimal air in system. Only takes 2 or 3 'bleeds'.
5. Clutch gets pulled to the floor when you push it and stays on the floor. Feels like there is absolutely no pressure in the system.
6. Pump ~20 times and nothing better.
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Old 10-05-2008, 01:24 AM   #4
swiftwrx06
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hmm.. it might help to have someone observe what the slave cylinder pin is doing and if its pushing the clutch fork when you step on the pedal.
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Old 10-05-2008, 10:43 AM   #5
Danny Boy
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Cutch pedal NOT depressed:


Clutch pedal NOT depressed, but the clutch fork can be moved by hand:


Clutch pedal depressed: slave pin moves out fully (seems to).
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:12 PM   #6
ritky
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When I did mine I had the same problem. I had to depress the clutch, it stayed to the floor and had to pull it back up with my hand. Did that several times before pressure build enough that it came back on it's own. Then I bled the system of air and old fluid. Now good to go
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:13 PM   #7
FuJi K
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Did you install your throwout bearing???
That's what I'm thinking..... ekkKKK!!
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:17 PM   #8
Danny Boy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FuJi K View Post
Did you install your throwout bearing???
That's what I'm thinking..... ekkKKK!!
Yes, I did install a new throwout bearing.

Something to note: when you push the pedal to the floor, it almost snaps to the floor. Like it's pulled down there.
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:32 PM   #9
FuJi K
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What I'd recheck if this was MY CASE....

I'd first pump it a few times to see if it stiffens up. Sometimes like what I found out on the WRX pedal box (don't know if it's any different from my RS pedal box) is that you have to PULL IT ALL THE WAY UP so you can get a full stroke on the next pump. If it still doesn't stay up... then

I go back to the engine bay, and fiddle with the clutch fork. Most time you can move it a little. If there is a throwout bearing in there, the fork should be pretty close to the slave cylinder. I'd have someone PUSH on the clutch pedal again as I observe the slave cylinder.

I'd bleed the clutch system to see if there's going to be any difference. I make sure that I have fluid though because when you run out you haveto bleed it again, which sucks. lolz
I bled my clutch by myself and it took a bit of thinking before bleeding. At first, I opened the cap, stepped on the pedal, and leave it down, close the cap, then come back and pull up on the pedal. Pump a few more times, use a 2x4" wood piece to wedge it on the pedal and my seat to keep the pedal down, then go bleed it again up front. Only like 3-4 of these I'm good to go.

I'd wonder if the clutch fork is bent or broken??? I'd check for leaks anywhere whe someone presses the clutch.
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Old 10-05-2008, 03:31 PM   #10
MasterKwan
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Looks like the TOB is missing or maybe disconnected from the clutch fork. I suspect that lever should be pressed up against the slave cylinder with significant force.
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Old 10-06-2008, 10:39 PM   #11
AVCS-BoxerFTW
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I am having the exact same problem with my clutch but mine is stock. Today it went straight to the floor when I was driving so I had to get it towed home and it feels like there is no pressure. I cant shift into gear when this happens either. It started a few weeks ago and now it doesnt work at all.
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Old 10-07-2008, 08:31 PM   #12
Danny Boy
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I'm replacing the slave cylinder tomorrow and I'll see what that does. Anyone have any other suggestions?
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Old 10-08-2008, 10:24 AM   #13
DFL2.5RS
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I highly doubt it's the slave cylinder. It sounds like the clutch fork is not properly mated/engaged with the throwout bearing... it's probably not what you want to hear, but you need to get a look at the clutch fork.

if I were you I'd loosen up the bolts holding the engine to the trans and pull the clutch fork pin. Then spread the engine and trans apart a few inches so that you can get a good look at the throwout bearing and the fork. make sure the fork is through both of the hooks/loops on the throwout bearing. it may be as simple as just wiggling the clutch fork and turning the throwout bearing a bit so that they're properly engaged and then bolting the whole thing back together.. you shouldn't have to pull the whole engine or drop the trans unless there is physical damage to the TOB or the fork...


Good luck!!
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Old 10-08-2008, 07:36 PM   #14
Danny Boy
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Just fixed it by replacing the slave and bench bleeding the entire hydraulic system out of the car.

The RS runs and drives pretty good now.
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