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Old 10-13-2008, 08:10 PM   #26
smileycvc
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The only problem I had when trying my compression test was getting the compression tester threaded into spark plug threads. I couldn't get it to line up and thread in. I only got 1 cylinder done.
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Old 10-13-2008, 10:20 PM   #27
txl146
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I had similar problem on cylinder 4, but it finally worked.
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Old 10-13-2008, 11:48 PM   #28
03WRX-WRB
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nice write up...i did the same thing works great

150+ is great for an 02 where 170 is brand new

i got 140 on all 4 cylinders but im running .040 piston to wall clearances. with .022 ring gaps.

and i did mine with the engine some what warm. not hot
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Old 10-13-2008, 11:59 PM   #29
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^your lucky!

i just did my test a few weeks ago, my numbers came out

cylinder 1= 95
cylinder2=90
cylinder3=136
cylinder4=140

ha! time for my 2.5 motor to go in i guess lol
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Old 10-14-2008, 12:00 AM   #30
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Great write up!
What are the signs of bad compression? (If you could possibly tell without a compression test)
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Old 10-14-2008, 12:44 AM   #31
03WRX-WRB
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mis fires, because of blowby. hesitation. loss of power.


list goes on it really depends on how low your compression is

if its 90 psi you may get a misfire here and there.

if its 20 like mine was the car doesnt want to run.

anything 100 or less is time for a rebuild
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Old 10-14-2008, 12:47 AM   #32
cheddarbob
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i am about to do mine next weekend when i replace the sprak plugs and am nervous about it since i have just passed the 120,000 mile mark in my 02 stage 2 wrx but that being said the motor still feels strong and has been maintained well
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Old 10-14-2008, 12:52 AM   #33
txl146
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I have over 90k miles on my car - 50k miles at 220whp level and 20k miles at the 282whp level. I always baby my car so no wonder why compression numbers came out over 150 each cylinder.
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Old 10-14-2008, 02:30 AM   #34
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advanced auto is the best out of the two. IMO Great write izzy
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Old 10-14-2008, 03:39 AM   #35
abbdulJcool
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nice write up, will definitely do this on my car; car has 144Kmiles on clock bonestock except axelback,runs strong no hesitation but getting the misfire code lately after replacing the clutch and put in a LWFW 12lbs., planning on goin stage2/VF43.
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Old 10-14-2008, 06:25 PM   #36
txl146
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Thanks guys. Check out my other DIY write ups.
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:52 PM   #37
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So what happens if you forget to warm it up?
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Old 10-29-2008, 10:17 PM   #38
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well, nothing apparently, I got ~150 psi on cylinders 1, 3, & 4 on a cold engine. Tried twice on cylinder 2 and could only get 130 psi.
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Old 10-29-2008, 10:52 PM   #39
hybrid gti 2
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I have wanted to know diy on this. Thanx
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Old 10-29-2008, 10:55 PM   #40
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152, 155, 155, 152.....
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Old 10-29-2008, 11:57 PM   #41
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You're going WOT without an air filter on!!!... am I missing something here???
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Old 10-30-2008, 01:24 AM   #42
bettyblue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuddyWRX View Post
You're going WOT without an air filter on!!!... am I missing something here???
mkay?
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Old 10-30-2008, 08:28 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juks View Post
well, nothing apparently, I got ~150 psi on cylinders 1, 3, & 4 on a cold engine. Tried twice on cylinder 2 and could only get 130 psi.
Its not that a cold engine will not read, it is that is will read artificially high. Because the engine is not up to temp, and things are tighter than when warm, you will see slightly inflated numbers. A warm engine simply gets an accurate reading with everything at proper operating temp, thus giving actual use conditions.

As far as the WOT thing, an engine is an air pump. I know that I may not have the best description, but I have a handle on it. If you do a comp test with the throttle plate closed, you are asking the cylinder to give you a pressure reading while operating in somewhat of a vaccum. If the throttle plate is open, then you are providing a direct, unobstructed air path to get an accurate cylinder compression test, vs. the vaccum situation with the throttle closed.

And as far as doing this with the air box off, this is a non issue. You are not running the car, just doing a check with short engine rotations. You are not going to ingest any dirt into the turbo that will cause harm. If this is really a concern, then you probably should not do this during a sand storm.

Cheers,
Travis
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Old 10-30-2008, 11:13 AM   #44
tazswing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
I have over 90k miles on my car - 50k miles at 220whp level and 20k miles at the 282whp level. I always baby my car so no wonder why compression numbers came out over 150 each cylinder.
I have over 50K at 285whp (98K total). We will see in about two weeks since my plugs need changing (need to gap them, first).


Thanks for the very nice write-up, TXL!
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Old 10-30-2008, 11:31 AM   #45
txl146
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Thanks...

I've been getting several PM about where I got the tester from. I got mine from advance auto part for $25.
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Old 10-30-2008, 02:33 PM   #46
kellygnsd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T_Racer69 View Post
Its not that a cold engine will not read, it is that is will read artificially high. Because the engine is not up to temp, and things are tighter than when warm, you will see slightly inflated numbers. A warm engine simply gets an accurate reading with everything at proper operating temp, thus giving actual use conditions.

As far as the WOT thing, an engine is an air pump. I know that I may not have the best description, but I have a handle on it. If you do a comp test with the throttle plate closed, you are asking the cylinder to give you a pressure reading while operating in somewhat of a vaccum. If the throttle plate is open, then you are providing a direct, unobstructed air path to get an accurate cylinder compression test, vs. the vaccum situation with the throttle closed.

And as far as doing this with the air box off, this is a non issue. You are not running the car, just doing a check with short engine rotations. You are not going to ingest any dirt into the turbo that will cause harm. If this is really a concern, then you probably should not do this during a sand storm.

Cheers,
Travis
Actually you would read lower but not by all that much on a good engine. You have bigger P/W and ring gap clearances when cold.
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Old 10-30-2008, 07:16 PM   #47
MrSlowbaru
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nice write up, i did my comp test a week or so ago, and had good numbers, every cylinder was between 160 and 165psi
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Old 10-31-2008, 06:49 AM   #48
rexblake
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Nice write up! I did this last week actually, with the Auto Zone gauge as well. Definitely worth the 25 bucks.
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Old 10-31-2008, 08:22 PM   #49
pornie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abbdulJcool View Post
nice write up, will definitely do this on my car; car has 144Kmiles on clock bonestock except axelback,runs strong no hesitation but getting the misfire code lately after replacing the clutch and put in a LWFW 12lbs., planning on goin stage2/VF43.

bolded the pertinent part.
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Old 11-01-2008, 04:26 PM   #50
bendavi17
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2004 WRX
60,000 miles
Rebuilt at 50,000 miles with thick 1.2mm head gasket (long story, don't ask why)
Stage 2 + headers, intake, 06wrx injectors, catless TBE

Results:
1: 137
2: 144
3: 138
4: 142

How does this look keeping in mine that I have the thick head gasket?
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