Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Friday August 1, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-27-2009, 06:28 PM   #76
Magnum626
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 62856
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: McDowells
Vehicle:
MBP SQC#197
Stockpiling parts...

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowsoul View Post
Man up! A few burns aren't going to kill you.

You have about an hour to do the test.
true, but playing xbox and forgetting about it didn't help. LOL
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Magnum626 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2009, 02:09 AM   #77
Farnk
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 91093
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Houston, Tx
Vehicle:
2002 Wrx

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowsoul View Post
Op...is it me or did you just skip explaining how to get to the driver side coils? They are definately the harder side to deal with.
Washer fluid box out, and a flexible extension works wonders. Although in my experience this side takes longer than the pass side, especially the plug most toward the firewall on the driver side.
Farnk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2009, 07:48 PM   #78
dome24
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 111845
Join Date: Apr 2006
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Anchor-Town
Vehicle:
97 RUBAsU Tall2dr
96 Neota Tacoma 4x4

Default

so im about to go for a spin to warm up the car, but have one question that i didn't see answered. Can I replace the plug after each cyl test? Or should i just pull all 4, test all 4, then replace all 4?
dome24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2009, 02:57 AM   #79
dome24
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 111845
Join Date: Apr 2006
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Anchor-Town
Vehicle:
97 RUBAsU Tall2dr
96 Neota Tacoma 4x4

Default

ok so that was possibly the most frustration Ive had working on my car in awhile.
I got all the plugs out no prob, tested the pass side and got ~160 on the rear and ~152 on the front, but could not for the life of me get teh tester started on the drivers side. I tried for over an hour to no avail. Burned the hell out of my hands got frustrated, remembered that the test is only good within an hour or so after running so i said F' it and just installed the new plugs.
dome24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2009, 04:56 PM   #80
2.5ReallySexy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 167943
Join Date: Dec 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Default

Did you jack up the motor? Try that and it may help. Take a piece of wood and put it between oil pan and jack.
2.5ReallySexy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2009, 10:48 PM   #81
scoobystas
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 26568
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Brighton, Mass
Vehicle:
2003 Yellow Bugeye
Version 8-Vf37

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2.5ReallySexy View Post
Did you jack up the motor? Try that and it may help. Take a piece of wood and put it between oil pan and jack.
i had an incident where the wood slid off the metal skid pad behind the oil pan and somehow the jack hit the oil pan and ended up putting a nice dent into it. Just pay attention and don't do what i did.
scoobystas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2009, 03:02 PM   #82
mowgli29
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 203438
Join Date: Feb 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: St. Louis, MO
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
PSM

Default

Just wanted to say to the OP: our cars are rather similar!

I have a 2002 w/ 91k miles, VF34 @ 19psi protuned, same plugs IIRC, Stock intake and I also use German Castrol Only difference is I have a Bosal catback and a stock DP
mowgli29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2009, 10:02 PM   #83
txl146
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32459
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
02 WRX VF34
Junior Tuned 301whp

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli29 View Post
Just wanted to say to the OP: our cars are rather similar!

I have a 2002 w/ 91k miles, VF34 @ 19psi protuned, same plugs IIRC, Stock intake and I also use German Castrol Only difference is I have a Bosal catback and a stock DP
Now my car has TXS TMIC
txl146 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2009, 01:05 AM   #84
mowgli29
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 203438
Join Date: Feb 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: St. Louis, MO
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
PSM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
Now my car has TXS TMIC
want! bigger TMIC is on my list...but who knows when. what'd you pay for it? how were the results? (btw, finally got a DP!)
mowgli29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2009, 09:58 AM   #85
txl146
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32459
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
02 WRX VF34
Junior Tuned 301whp

Default

~3 psi less drop in pressure resulted in overpressure - blew intake manifold gasket. Car felt great though with TXS TMIC.
txl146 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2009, 11:14 PM   #86
nathan.d.kim
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 157161
Join Date: Aug 2007
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Vehicle:
2007 OBP STI
black

Default

I attempted to do this compression test today. I'm going to consider today's work as the rehearsal. By the time I figured out how to remove all the plugs, the engine was too cool to really do an accurate test. I know I could've done it still with cold numbers just to compare between the cylinders, but I wanted to compare with the factory manual tolerance specs (about 140 to 170). I need to get a 5/8" spark plug wrench that is 3 to 3.5 inches long. I had a regular deep-well socket today (2.5 inches), but it won't be good enough to reinstall the plugs - prefer to have a straight socket so I don't mess up the threads.

When you pull out the spark plugs, the condition of your used spark plugs can give you a good idea of what is going on in there. This site has many examples of what it may look like when you first pull them out:
"http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark-plug-reading-spg-192.html

Oily spark plug tips probably mean that the pistons are worn or the ring seals are cracked, thereby allowing oil into the combustion chamber. This would account for the increased oil consumption as well. It can also reduce the effective octane of the fuel since oil is inside the chamber, possibly causing detonation.

I thought my plugs were oil-fouled, but upon closer inspection, the tips are brown/tan. This means normal. The threads below the tip are slightly oily brown, but not really wet. It looked shiny wet, but when I wiped the threads with a paper towel, the brown stuff was more like soot. Therefore, so far so good at least by the spark plugs. Compression test will be done tomorrow, hopefully.

I will do the test both cold and hot. Cold numbers, since my plugs are already off right now. Hot, so everyone can see what a difference warming up might make.

Can anyone provide information on which cylinder number is which one in relation to the passenger/driver side and front/rear.

Passenger side front = ?
Passenger side rear = ?
Driver side front = ?
Driver side rear = ?

Thanks, guys. Standby for cold/hot compression numbers within the next few days.

Last edited by nathan.d.kim; 08-11-2009 at 01:05 AM.
nathan.d.kim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2009, 01:15 PM   #87
nathan.d.kim
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 157161
Join Date: Aug 2007
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Vehicle:
2007 OBP STI
black

Default

Oh, one thing...
The factory manual doesn't say anything about pulling fuses. All you have to do is relieve the fuel pressure so you don't get fuel spray.
1. With the car running, remove the kick panel underneath the passenger side dash along the right side wall. It comes off with a small plastic screw.
2. Pull the green-colored block, which is the fuel pump relay.
3. After a few seconds, the engine will sputter and shut-off on its own.
4. The excess fuels has been burned off and you won't have to worry about fuel washing out the engine.
5. Remove the gas filler cap to relieve tank pressure.

This link gives you pics and details on how to do it as well:
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-inst...-post-6-a.html

I forgot to open the gas cap after shutting down. Too late now.
nathan.d.kim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2009, 07:15 PM   #88
nathan.d.kim
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 157161
Join Date: Aug 2007
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Vehicle:
2007 OBP STI
black

Default

DELAYED!
I decided to just replace the spark plugs now at 43k miles with the one-step colder NGK plugs. They won't get here until Thursday since I had to order them online. =(

I fully charged the battery last night before trying to do the compression test. I would like to at least do a cold compression test tonight since the parts are already out. Will the battery be okay to do 6 turns each on all 4 cylinders (24 total turns) AND THEN sit around until Thursday before I put it all back together to get everything hot again?

If not, I will wait until I have the new plugs on Thursday. But I'm absolutely ITCHY to find out the health of my cylinders. I hate waiting!
nathan.d.kim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2009, 05:52 PM   #89
charliew
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 125304
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Crawford, TX.
Default

NEVER jack a suby motor up by jacking on the oil pan. The pan to oil pickup clearance is too close as it is. If you just very slightly dent the pan the motor will in a very good possibility starve for oil. Take the motor mounts and the top support loose and jack on the bottom of the tranny with a piece of wood between the jack and tranny if you think you must raise the motor. Once you've done the leakdown it will get easier the following times.
charliew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2009, 07:06 PM   #90
txl146
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32459
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
02 WRX VF34
Junior Tuned 301whp

Default

Update:

After 11 months, I performed compression test again:

152, 152, 151, 149

txl146 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2009, 06:58 AM   #91
udelslayer
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 117214
Join Date: Jun 2006
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Youngsville, NC
Vehicle:
2003 WRX Wag'n Wagon
You can have.

Default

Question:
Do you prefer to do this on a hot, warm, or cold motor? I think that the answer is "obviously" warm, but what risk do you run of taking a thread out of the head with the spark plug? I understand that you could run into issues due to expansion differences between the head and plugs, though small. I've always understood that you do the plugs in a cold engine. Is this just for installing the plugs or does removal count too? I imagine by the time you're done with the test, its at an acceptable temperature for plug installation.
udelslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2009, 07:09 AM   #92
carnz-pj-410
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 110994
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Atlantic
Vehicle:
1993 Legacy Turbo

Default

I've always done a compression test on a hot/warm motor. Never had any issues with spark plugs coming out improperly or going in improperly either.
carnz-pj-410 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2009, 08:30 PM   #93
udelslayer
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 117214
Join Date: Jun 2006
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Youngsville, NC
Vehicle:
2003 WRX Wag'n Wagon
You can have.

Default

121k and counting....

1- 151 2- 160?
3- 155 4- 150

avg: 154... so yeah, every number is 7% of that

took me a while, the 160 was the last one tested, so the motor was cooling a bit
when they say 7% is it of the larger or smaller number or the average of the total.

do i have the cyls in the right order looking from front?
udelslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2009, 09:16 PM   #94
Chi_San
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 53558
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Deadford, OR
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
Silver

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by udelslayer View Post
121k and counting....

1- 151 2- 160?
3- 155 4- 150

avg: 154... so yeah, every number is 7% of that

took me a while, the 160 was the last one tested, so the motor was cooling a bit
when they say 7% is it of the larger or smaller number or the average of the total.

do i have the cyls in the right order looking from front?
Passenger side front cylinder is #1, Passenger side rear cylinder is #3. I always had it backwords because I had a coilpack on an old legacy that had it backwords for 1-2, 3-4.

150-160... Hmmm. I'd squirt a little ATF in the cylinders and redo the test, to see if anything changes (oil should help the rings seal), or a leakdown test. Personally, I'd just do a hot leakdown test. If the leakdown test is good, then you should be okay. 7% is right on the edge of 'acceptable', your 150 is 6% of 160 PSI, so that's 'in the limits'. I'd do a leakdown test, and if it looks good, okay, if not, find out why it's leaking and fix it.
Chi_San is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2009, 10:18 PM   #95
udelslayer
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 117214
Join Date: Jun 2006
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Youngsville, NC
Vehicle:
2003 WRX Wag'n Wagon
You can have.

Default

You dont think the 150's is good? This could have been totally my fault. I've NEVER done a true compression test (or seen one for that matter). I did dilly dally a little bit as I figured out how to thread that damn tube in sideways (OMFG! burn hand, while attempting to thread a cyl for at least 15 minutes.). I think I took almost 2 hours trying to complete this.

I'm not too worried. Its a cheap Actron gauge - which is analog and doesnt give what I'd consider a true exact reading. I dont have any weird issues and the car has always been strong. My copper plugs looked about new (as I was changing them anyways). I did this for educational value and because I'm going to a protune next week.

Are you sure its the lowest-highest and the difference between those two? I would have thought it would be the difference from the average to give you a middle point to count form. My 151 could have been a 153 and my 160 could have been a 158 or a 161....
udelslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2009, 10:23 PM   #96
carnz-pj-410
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 110994
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Atlantic
Vehicle:
1993 Legacy Turbo

Default

even with the range of 150~160 thats a good motor. compression spec is 142~171 so i'd be happy with those numbers
carnz-pj-410 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2009, 10:24 PM   #97
udelslayer
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 117214
Join Date: Jun 2006
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Youngsville, NC
Vehicle:
2003 WRX Wag'n Wagon
You can have.

Default

Hmm... thats scary. It doesnt say 7%, lol, it says 7psi.

Compression (350 rpm and fully open throttle):
Standard;
951- 1,147kPa(9.7- 11.7kgf/cn?, 138-
166 psi)
Limit;
834 kPa (8.5 kgf/cd, 121 psi)
Difference between c linders;
49 kPa (0.5 k g f / c d 7 psi)

And being in a hurry, I should have done 2 measurements.....
udelslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2009, 10:31 PM   #98
carnz-pj-410
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 110994
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Atlantic
Vehicle:
1993 Legacy Turbo

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by udelslayer View Post
Hmm... thats scary. It doesnt say 7%, lol, it says 7psi.

Compression (350 rpm and fully open throttle):
Standard;
951- 1,147kPa(9.7- 11.7kgf/cn?, 138-
166 psi)
Limit;
834 kPa (8.5 kgf/cd, 121 psi)
Difference between c linders;
49 kPa (0.5 k g f / c d 7 psi)

And being in a hurry, I should have done 2 measurements.....
i wouldnt worry about the 10psi difference as much when your numbers are in the middle of the spec. if it was 140 and 150 instead of 150 and 160 i'd worry

that 138-166psi spec was only used for 02, 03 and up is 142~171
carnz-pj-410 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2009, 11:01 PM   #99
udelslayer
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 117214
Join Date: Jun 2006
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Youngsville, NC
Vehicle:
2003 WRX Wag'n Wagon
You can have.

Default

oh, thats weird, so the spec is different or are the motors actually different? Different ring manufactureres?
udelslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2009, 07:09 AM   #100
carnz-pj-410
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 110994
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Atlantic
Vehicle:
1993 Legacy Turbo

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by udelslayer View Post
oh, thats weird, so the spec is different or are the motors actually different? Different ring manufactureres?
all the parts for 02-04 wrx superceded to the 05 WRX internals so idk what the difference was back then, i'd just go by the standard 142~171 for all factory turbo motors 02-present
carnz-pj-410 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Compression test instructions with pics. Impr3zy0u Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain 123 03-27-2013 06:04 PM
new to boxers. help with compression test wildacex187 Newbies & FAQs 19 02-27-2007 11:03 PM
What is the standard compression test values on a 2.5ltr with forged pistons tino Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain 15 11-25-2005 02:16 AM
can compression test be done with accessport and antitheft mode? anthonyrb98 Engine Management & Tuning 12 09-25-2005 04:05 PM
DIY Compression Test thoughto Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain 6 01-31-2004 05:31 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:00 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.