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Old 10-06-2009, 03:27 PM   #101
~Touge/Wangan-
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awesome write-up, thanks!...
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:55 PM   #102
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planning to do this with a friend in a few weeks. had a few concerns when pulling the spark plugs.

he has about 100k miles on the car and he has never changed the spark plugs before. Is there a likely hood that the plugs may be seized? is it a wise idea to use a little pb blaster or similar product in the event that the spark plugs are seized.

has any one ever run into the problem with the plugs being seized..

Thank you for any input.
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Old 11-12-2009, 03:14 PM   #103
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I once saw a plug snapped in half with the nut coming off and the threads and tip remaining in the engine. Not really sure how he managed to do it, but it happened. Hope that doesn't scare you though, you'll probably be fine. Just don't go doing anything too fast.
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Old 11-12-2009, 03:27 PM   #104
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suuuuuuuuuuuuubscribed.
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Old 11-13-2009, 09:07 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agkelos View Post
I once saw a plug snapped in half with the nut coming off and the threads and tip remaining in the engine. Not really sure how he managed to do it, but it happened. Hope that doesn't scare you though, you'll probably be fine. Just don't go doing anything too fast.
ahah talk about not scaring me.. thats why i was wondering if the pb blaster was a good idea.

i use a few drops on my wife's old civic when the plug was stuck... but wanted to double check if it was safe/recommended.
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Old 11-25-2009, 01:58 AM   #106
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Good DIY test, does Autozone sell this type of tester? I have got basically the same setup waiting to be installed and I neglected to even do a compression test before purchasing the parts $25 bucks is chump change compared to doing the install, then boom; if Autozone doesnt sell that type of tester, you have a parts list to put one together?
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Old 01-24-2010, 11:09 AM   #107
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Good write up!
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:47 PM   #108
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im not sure what the cylinder numbers are but my stock 02 wrx 125xxx got

driver side close to firewall 159
driver side close to headlight 161
pass. close to firewall 150
pass. close to headlight 156

im happy with the numbers im just worried about the 150-161 the pass. side close to the firewall i got 150 and the motor was probably getting a lil cold so.
I guess i can start my turbo swap.
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:55 AM   #109
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Just wanted to thank the OP, this helped me out. I was more nervous about what I was going to see in the results than doing it though, lol. But the Subaru gods smiled upon me today (now twice in one month). 150/150/150/147
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Old 02-08-2010, 12:08 PM   #110
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I'm going to test this today to help diagnose cyl 1 and 3 random misfires. Since this is only on one side of the engine, is there any downside to leaving 2 and 4 all plugged in and hooked up? I wouldn't think so but thought I would throw that out there.
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Old 02-08-2010, 05:30 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squillo View Post
im not sure what the cylinder numbers are but my stock 02 wrx 125xxx got

driver side close to firewall 159
driver side close to headlight 161
pass. close to firewall 150
pass. close to headlight 156

im happy with the numbers im just worried about the 150-161 the pass. side close to the firewall i got 150 and the motor was probably getting a lil cold so.
I guess i can start my turbo swap.
FYI -


Rear
3 - 4
1 - 2
o__o <---(Headlights and bumber)

Front

and just because #3 is low and is sitting next to the turbo, doesn't mean swapping the turbo will fix it.
Lastly if you think the low number was due to a colder motor, then you could always go back to the first cylinder you started on and recheck that to see if the compression really dropped that much... (which is not likely unless you are running forged pistons).
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Old 02-08-2010, 05:37 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meebs View Post
I'm going to test this today to help diagnose cyl 1 and 3 random misfires. Since this is only on one side of the engine, is there any downside to leaving 2 and 4 all plugged in and hooked up? I wouldn't think so but thought I would throw that out there.
Leaving 2 & 4 hooked up won't allow 'proper' cranking to build pressure in #1/3 cylinder. You will now be fighting #2 and #4 compression as well during cranking.

It's best to remove all of them and test all of them too. This will give you a better comparison as to the non-misfiring #2 and 4 vs the misfiring 1 & 3.

Usually misfires on 1 side of the motor (1 & 3 vs 2 & 4) usually indicates a skipped timing belt on that one side of the motor.

I had a skipped timing belt and my 1 & 3 had compression of 90 and 87. This would seem 'healthy' when you look at both of them. However when I tested #2 & 4 they ended up being 155 and 154. SO, I immediately knew my timing belt was off. Turned out the intake cam was off 2 teeth and my ex cam was off 1 tooth. Car idled like crap and felt very lumpy.
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:59 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintbing View Post
Leaving 2 & 4 hooked up won't allow 'proper' cranking to build pressure in #1/3 cylinder. You will now be fighting #2 and #4 compression as well during cranking.

It's best to remove all of them and test all of them too. This will give you a better comparison as to the non-misfiring #2 and 4 vs the misfiring 1 & 3.

Usually misfires on 1 side of the motor (1 & 3 vs 2 & 4) usually indicates a skipped timing belt on that one side of the motor.

I had a skipped timing belt and my 1 & 3 had compression of 90 and 87. This would seem 'healthy' when you look at both of them. However when I tested #2 & 4 they ended up being 155 and 154. SO, I immediately knew my timing belt was off. Turned out the intake cam was off 2 teeth and my ex cam was off 1 tooth. Car idled like crap and felt very lumpy.

Thanks for the reply.

I was under the impression that being off 1 or 2 teeth resulted in bent valves on the 205 considering it is a zero clearance engine.

While I did have my timing belt off it was quite a few months ago. I've only recently started seeing misfires on 1 and 3. I would think that would be something that would show up immediately if I was off a few teeth. I've done a T-belt a few times and was confident in the cam alignment.
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Old 02-09-2010, 05:40 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meebs View Post
Thanks for the reply.

I was under the impression that being off 1 or 2 teeth resulted in bent valves on the 205 considering it is a zero clearance engine.

While I did have my timing belt off it was quite a few months ago. I've only recently started seeing misfires on 1 and 3. I would think that would be something that would show up immediately if I was off a few teeth. I've done a T-belt a few times and was confident in the cam alignment.
You can be off a FEW teeth without issue. I was off 2 and 1. The 2 teeth didn't contact the piston, and the valves didn't touch each other, because they were only off 1 tooth Net from each other(2 - 1 = 1).

Mine skipped during a rally-X event. So even if you correctly installed it, it could still skip with a heavy hit. Long story short, mine was caused by the dealer leaving a washer floating in the timing cover and it bounced up and got caught between a pulley and belt.

As for the misfires, mine was still random. However it was frequent... like once per day.
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Old 05-09-2010, 08:50 PM   #115
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I just picked up an Actron Professional Compression Tester. It comes with a 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm long reach adapter. Any idea which adapter is the correct one to use?

Last edited by ScoobyNubieToo!; 05-09-2010 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 05-10-2010, 04:38 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintbing View Post
(which is not likely unless you are running forged pistons).
this has me thinking...

i have forged pistons. i'll try and get a cold engine/compression vs. hot engine/compression and see the difference. i'll try and post pics (if i remember )

regardless...i don't think my numbers will come back very good i'm in the midst of planning my rebuild attack.
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Old 05-10-2010, 05:11 AM   #117
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good write up
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Old 05-29-2010, 04:25 PM   #118
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My engine wont run, would it it be ok to do a cold compression test?
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Old 06-28-2010, 11:32 PM   #119
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Wow, just had my block replaced and I got 165, 165, 165, 100. Def. taking that one back.
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Old 06-28-2010, 11:48 PM   #120
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Quote:
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Wow, just had my block replaced and I got 165, 165, 165, 100. Def. taking that one back.
Yikes!
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:44 AM   #121
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Be careful when you rent a compression tester from auto parts store, it may have a leak.

I did my compression test yesterday, and the numbers came out great with my friend's tester and are

3: 140 4: 145
1: 140 2: 140

I started with the engine hot, but there was some trouble with the compression gauge I rented from AutoZone, which kept reading 60 psi-ish on all 4 cylinders, so I used my friend's gauge and that was probably 3 to 4 hours after the engine was hot. The engine block was still somewhat warm so I hope it was good enough.
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Old 09-05-2010, 12:00 PM   #122
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ok so i understand correctly... i take out the ignition fuse, all the coilpacks and spark plugs..when i get a compression tester i stick it it each one of the spark plug holes and crank the engine 6 times??? how long will i need to hold each crank? and the tester i guess it just clicks on or slides right into each cylinder right..??? what are good #"s and bad #'s... i picked up a 04 wrx few months ago so im new at this.. thanks
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Old 09-05-2010, 06:05 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thisishomer96 View Post
ok so i understand correctly... i take out the ignition fuse, all the coilpacks and spark plugs..when i get a compression tester i stick it it each one of the spark plug holes and crank the engine 6 times??? how long will i need to hold each crank? and the tester i guess it just clicks on or slides right into each cylinder right..??? what are good #"s and bad #'s... i picked up a 04 wrx few months ago so im new at this.. thanks
First off... Rent a tester first and most of your questions will be answered.

All the plugs need to be out (which results in the coil packs being removed too).

The tester threads into the spark plug hole, so no "holding" required.

2nd, since all the coils are out, it's pointless to disconnect anything related to the ignition. The ONLY thing you need to be worried about is the injectors spraying fuel. So disconnect the fuel pump. The easiest is by disconnecting the BIG BROWN wire harness that is below the glove box, right next to the door. This contains the power to the pump.

Do this on a warm motor, and push the gas to the floor while pumping. Crank and count six cranks and then go read the gauge. Pretty much that's it.
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:34 PM   #124
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has anyone done this with ease on an 06 07? theres so much crap on the drivers side, id have to take the battery out and remove the air pump. i wish i had of know this prior to buying a tester and spark plug sockets
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:16 PM   #125
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IMPORTANT NOTE!!!!

If your compression tester has an extension for deep plug holes, make sure said extension is tight on the tester or remove all together or else you run the risk of the extension coming off in the head and installing the plug into the extension and causing a wicked misfire, CEL and bucking engine...


ask me how I know
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