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Old 10-29-2010, 04:40 PM   #126
maxplanck
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180K miles on my stock 04 wrx. 155, 160, 155, 155.
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:33 AM   #127
DutchOven
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Anyone know if cranking the engine with the floor to the ground would have the same results with cars that have a Drive by wire (DBW) throttle system?
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Old 03-11-2011, 04:39 AM   #128
z
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dome24 View Post
IMPORTANT NOTE!!!!

If your compression tester has an extension for deep plug holes, make sure said extension is tight on the tester or remove all together or else you run the risk of the extension coming off in the head and installing the plug into the extension and causing a wicked misfire, CEL and bucking engine...


ask me how I know
Whoa!!

You didn't notice that the adapter was missing when you pulled it out?

Hopefully your motor was ok though.

I feel your pain though...I borrowed a buddies tester and i assumed the adapter was threaded on tight. After testing the first cylinder, I went to un thread it and the adapter stayed in there

*I had a buddy hold the mechanics mirror and flashlight so I could see right down the hole. Then I put some loctite red on the hose part and threaded it back into the adapter that was suck in the head, let it harden for 20 minutes and then was able to twist it out all as one unit.
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Old 03-11-2011, 04:41 AM   #129
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yeah this is one major downside of the boxer motor. awkward placement of cylinder heads
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Old 03-11-2011, 04:56 AM   #130
z
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Oh and great write up by the way, thanks.

150 x 4

(I figure these testers must vary from unit to unit—so i'm not going to get to hung up on the numbers—but I'm just happy that there wasn't one significantly lower than the others.

130k on car, 70k on this motor which was replaced under warrenty due to oiling issue.
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:00 PM   #131
obsaidian scooby
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whats the stock compression spec?
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Old 03-19-2011, 06:51 PM   #132
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Ej205: 125+ psi, no more than 7 psi deviation between cylinders. Take the auto store tester numbers with a grain of salt, not known for accuracy.
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Old 03-20-2011, 05:00 AM   #133
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awesome write up!
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Old 04-06-2011, 01:36 PM   #134
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I'm going to be giving this a shot.
Got my car back with a new hybrid built motor. Went from running good to to running like **** after about 400 miles. Data logs are pretty clean so yeah, not sure what to expect.
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Old 04-06-2011, 01:56 PM   #135
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Nice write up.
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Old 04-07-2011, 02:02 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stikboy9 View Post
I would disconnect the fuel pump relay too. Something about raw fuel washing the cylinder walls and fuel dilution in the oil just sounds like bad ju ju to me....Great write up though! Now someone needs to make one for a leakdown test! Hint hint...
Definitely pull the fuse or disconnect the harness. You don't want to wash the walls.

OP, good write-up.
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:44 AM   #137
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GRAVE DIGGER



Alright guys so I wan to do a compression test on my 05 and I just don't quite understand when I should do it. Cold or Warmed up. You always want to change plugs when they are cold and what not but to do the compression test everyone says to warm it up but I don't want to break a spark plug in there. I've had it happen to me on a regular 1.8T VW and I can't imagine it happening to me in a boxer engine.
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:13 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank-i-e
GRAVE DIGGER

Alright guys so I wan to do a compression test on my 05 and I just don't quite understand when I should do it. Cold or Warmed up. You always want to change plugs when they are cold and what not but to do the compression test everyone says to warm it up but I don't want to break a spark plug in there. I've had it happen to me on a regular 1.8T VW and I can't imagine it happening to me in a boxer engine.
Your question was answered on post #3. You should always do it on a warm engine for proper oil pressure.
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:55 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dome24 View Post
IMPORTANT NOTE!!!!

If your compression tester has an extension for deep plug holes, make sure said extension is tight on the tester or remove all together or else you run the risk of the extension coming off in the head and installing the plug into the extension and causing a wicked misfire, CEL and bucking engine...


ask me how I know
How the??

Nothing seemed odd when the coil pack or plug wire didn't go back on fully?
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:20 PM   #140
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Thanks for these great tips
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:15 PM   #141
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thanks for the great writeup! I just joined the forum and got my first subi, so thanks for all the great info!!
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:22 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lealand
thanks for the great writeup! I just joined the forum and got my first subi, so thanks for all the great info!!
Congrats on the buy! Swing by the Newbie & FAQ section and introduce yourself and your car. Also fill in your profile with your car and location.
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:42 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lealand View Post
thanks for the great writeup! I just joined the forum and got my first subi, so thanks for all the great info!!
Welcome to nasioc.com!
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Old 03-28-2013, 02:36 PM   #144
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I did this just did this earlier today since I'm looking to modify my car farther.

As it currently sits.
2002 WRX 120k miles, 4EAT trans, 18psi on stock turbo, aftermarket downpipe/exhaust, 240whp.

Cylinders

#1-154psi
#2-153psi
#3-155psi
#4-157psi




I've personally never done spark plug work on a subi before and it wasn't all that bad. Took me probably a little over an hour total while still taking my time. Getting everything out was easy although cylinder #2, the driver side one closest to the bumper is a little rough while using the compression tester. I bought the compression tester from my local Auto Zone($30) and it only took like 15-30 seconds to screw it into the other cylinders but I fought with cylinder 2 for a good 15-20 minutes to be able to line it up (might be why its number is slightly lower being as the engine started cooling off).

It helps if you put your one arm between the engine and your battery(if it fits) to help guide the hose as you twist it with your other hand.





I did just as the OP said and only pulled fuse #11 under the dash, I looked around and didn't really see a need to pull the fuel pump connection as well(although I guess it couldn't hurt)

And an FYI, if you did like I did and just unplugged your MAF sensor from your intake instead of leaving it plugged in and unscrewing it instead, you're going to throw a check engine light code. No biggie if you got a little code reader computer to just wipe it after your done though

But if not, you might wanna leave that plugged in....
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Old 05-25-2013, 02:04 PM   #145
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131, 130, 128, 128 on my 04 STi...
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Old 05-26-2013, 01:26 AM   #146
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^^ Not necessarily a bad thing. More important that the numbers are closer together with each other then it is that some be high while others fall lower. Looks good to me!

Don't forget, if your engine started cooling off you're probably going to get lower numbers and the location's elevation from sea level also plays a big part in how high/lower your numbers can be as well.
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Old 05-26-2013, 01:30 AM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rymaster View Post
^^ Not necessarily a bad thing. More important that the numbers are closer together with each other then it is that some be high while others fall lower. Looks good to me!

Don't forget, if your engine started cooling off you're probably going to get lower numbers and the location's elevation from sea level also plays a big part in how high/lower your numbers can be as well.
Good point. If the engine was 50 degrees cooler than typical, those are good numbers. Especially if he's more than say 5-600ft above sea level.
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Old 05-27-2013, 03:56 AM   #148
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This is great!
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Old 12-15-2013, 09:26 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by projectQWKSLVR View Post
Good point. If the engine was 50 degrees cooler than typical, those are good numbers. Especially if he's more than say 5-600ft above sea level.
So what kind of numbers would one expect with a fully cold (40F) engine at 3500ft elevation? I ask because I had my T-belt skip a few teeth (on the passenger side intake cam) during an accident and feared a bent valve. And, with the cooling system now removed I can't run my engine more than a few seconds to get it warm for an accurate compression test. With a cold engine the passenger side head pulled 120psi on each cylinder. That seems very low but way to high to have damaged valves. My compression gauge also isn't the highest quality so that may play a factor in accuracy, the consistency was reassuring though.
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:47 PM   #150
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Thanks! Great post
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