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Old 10-20-2008, 11:55 PM   #1
rice or die
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Default my cheap fcd

my car is a 92 legacy ss. did i do this fcd mod right? i saw it on bbs.legacycentral but im not sure whether its right or not, its basicly hose from the manifold to a "T" peice and one end of the "T" peice has the check valve in it and dumps boost into the atmo.



im going to turn my boost up to 15psi on my td04 soon and does anyone know what kind of diffrence it makes from the stock 8.7psi? hopefuly much better because i got beat by a 03 neon sxt bone stock! very embarresing
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Old 10-21-2008, 09:34 AM   #2
Jaxx
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recipe for disaster

390cc injectors +15 psi= stupid lean
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Old 10-21-2008, 06:28 PM   #3
rice or die
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what about 13 or 14 psi? i should be ok then shouldnt i? and plus if i set it to 15 at max it wont always run 15 because my max boost runs out quick and goes to about 7 if my max is 9
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Old 10-21-2008, 07:40 PM   #4
bobjr94
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People seem to say 440cc injectors work good for the average 2.0 2.2 turbo engine. It only takes a few seconds of lean to weaken a piston, so get a good a/f gauge to keep track of the mixture. I would keep it under 10 with out doing any more work to it.
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Old 10-21-2008, 08:27 PM   #5
Matt Monson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobjr94 View Post
People seem to say 440cc injectors work good for the average 2.0 2.2 turbo engine. It only takes a few seconds of lean to weaken a piston, so get a good a/f gauge to keep track of the mixture. I would keep it under 10 with out doing any more work to it.
A good gauge is only as good as the sensor it is hooked up to. The factory sensor is a narrowband. Unless he gets an Innovative the gauge won't be worth a damn.

14psi should be fine on the stock Ej22T pinks. If you wanted a little extra margin of safety you could get a fuel pressure regulator and dial up the pressure a few psi. It's not the best solution but it's something that many people have done with good sucess on these cars through the years.
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Old 10-21-2008, 10:51 PM   #6
rice or die
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14 sounds ok, but you guys know im running a td04 turbo with wrx tmic right?
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Old 10-22-2008, 03:30 PM   #7
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The td04 flows more cfm per pound of boost. This makes it even more imperative that you throw some coin down on a wideband o2 sensor. There is no way we can tell you how well it will work. Every car is different, and every turbo is slightly different.

GET A WIDEBAND if you don't want to blow your car up.
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Old 10-22-2008, 06:13 PM   #8
rice or die
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well i decided id also just upgrade the fuel system aswell, can i get a website for the wideband sensor?
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Old 10-22-2008, 06:29 PM   #9
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innovatetuning.com
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:29 PM   #10
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Don't buy an LM1 buy an AEM UEGO it doesn't require a laptop and is like a normal 52mm gauge so you can use it all the time. Find it on ebay for around 170 shipped.
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Old 10-22-2008, 08:10 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdodger View Post
Don't buy an LM1 buy an AEM UEGO it doesn't require a laptop and is like a normal 52mm gauge so you can use it all the time. Find it on ebay for around 170 shipped.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaxx View Post
innovatetuning.com
Member number 177 or 150XXX? Who are you gonna trust. Get the freakin innovate LC-1.
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Old 10-23-2008, 01:08 AM   #12
gene4ace
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that fcd is for and n/a car; where you dont want the pressure sensor seeing boost(cel).

your fcd should cap the voltage from your pressure sensor to about maybe 12-13 psi maybe 4.9 volts(i cant remember)

i think about 230hp is the max your LSS will ever see with the stock ecu(exlcuing re-flash)
start with this
http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_1836/article.html
then finish with this when you'd got the nessesary supporting mods go stand alone(fcd is mentioned here also)
http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_0895/article.html
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Old 10-23-2008, 02:20 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic Assassian View Post
Member number 177 or 150XXX? Who are you gonna trust. Get the freakin innovate LC-1.
Ok have you personally owned 3 widebands? Nope didn't think so, I have. Have you personally built your entire engine custom from the block up, and tuned it yourself? Nope didn't think so either. Just because I registered in the last year doesn't mean I don't know what I'm talking about. The LM1 has one advantage, its cheaper. It requires a laptop to use unless you purchase the expensive addon gauge. Recently it has also seen a decline in quality. The UEGO has a self diagnostic feature, computer logging ability, and most importantly for this particular person the ability to view its output all the time. I doubt this guy will be tuning and forgetting and I doubt he wants to keep a laptop in his car 24/7 so the UEGO is the clear choice.

BTW I've worked on more cars than you've checked the oil on.
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Old 10-23-2008, 12:11 PM   #14
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LM-1 has a nice 12 diget lcd display only requires a pc for upgrading firmware or changing the analog outputs
the LC-1 has no display

and
-reads to 9.0 to 1 vs 10.0 to 1 like the aem
since some people have been tuning a/f levels into the 10s its needed
-the lm-1/lc-1/lm-2 protocol is supported by every major manufacture of em .. not so for the aem

you may have worked on more cars but your product knowledge is lacking
coming across like you know every thing is less than helpfull
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Old 10-23-2008, 01:37 PM   #15
Matt Monson
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I'm not even sure he's worked on more cars since I know what Artic Assassin does for a living. Regardless, he's definitely coming off as a douche canoe...
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Old 10-23-2008, 01:43 PM   #16
Arctic Assassian
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I'm not even going to justify a response to that.

Thanks Matt. BTW I just got another 92 SS. I'm trying to get a raw lsd so I can have some fun this winter. We do wheel to wheel racing out on "big lake" near "Wasilla". Some of you may now know where these places are due to the high queen Palin and her newfound popularity.
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Old 11-05-2008, 05:29 PM   #17
rice or die
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ok so i got my boost controller and turned my boost to 14. it ran great to 14 and no fuel cut. but the other day i was going up a hill and floored it and was at about 13-14 psi for about 7 seconds and had hit fuel cut for the first time. since then if i floor it i cant even get past 11 psi without hitting fuel cut... and my homebrew fcd is still functional. any ideas?
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Old 11-05-2008, 08:05 PM   #18
Arctic Assassian
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It has become plugged with oil maybe. For some reason, it's not bleeding as much boost.
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Old 11-05-2008, 08:17 PM   #19
rice or die
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yeh there was some oil in the vacum lines so ill do a full clean and see how it goes

14 psi is insanly better than stock... i was doing awd burnouts on the wet roads yestrday...
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Old 11-05-2008, 11:16 PM   #20
rice or die
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ok i cleaned the lines and i still get fuel cut. so i put another check valve on and made it so no possible boost can go to the sensor while vacum still is sensed. and it still has fuel cut around 11-13 psi quickly. it also seems it almost doesnt ever cut if im not in power mode
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Old 11-06-2008, 01:50 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice or die View Post
yeh there was some oil in the vacum lines so ill do a full clean and see how it goes

14 psi is insanly better than stock... i was doing awd burnouts on the wet roads yestrday...

Actually, you were only spinning two wheels. One in front and one in back. The 92-94 turbos didn't come with the rear vlsd that the 91's got.
I would avoid using that bleed type FCD. Just go on the bbs and look at the instructions to make your own voltage clamp style. It's like 15 bucks at any electronic parts store, and soldering is easy.
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Old 11-08-2008, 04:06 AM   #22
rice or die
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ok my car is acting weird. heres some symptoms

-when engine is warm idle is extremely bad like missing is occuring
-if i stop the car to quick the engine will die
-my power mode engages literly every ten seconds and i havent even pressed the throttle more than an inch
-fuel cut is occuring when i hit 10psi and when powermode goes on
- check engine light comes on sometimes and says air sensor but i have cleaned it already 3 times...
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Old 11-10-2008, 03:22 PM   #23
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take the damn thing off. It's causing problems, get a voltage clamp style one. How many times do I have to type that here? they cost fifty bucks, and are infinitly adjustable.
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Old 11-10-2008, 03:28 PM   #24
rice or die
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i wish you were right but this was also happening before that fuel cut defender i put on
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Old 11-10-2008, 04:45 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice or die View Post
ok my car is acting weird. heres some symptoms

-when engine is warm idle is extremely bad like missing is occuring
-if i stop the car to quick the engine will die
-my power mode engages literly every ten seconds and i havent even pressed the throttle more than an inch
-fuel cut is occuring when i hit 10psi and when powermode goes on
- check engine light comes on sometimes and says air sensor but i have cleaned it already 3 times...
This deserves it own thread. And should be addressed before any more modifications are done. I know from experience. I've blown motors before.

The engine dying is likely due to a malfunctioning VSS.


Have you read the codes with the check engine light, or a subaru select monitor? Or did you just use an aftermarket scan tool? In my experience, cheap (as in less than a snap-on MODIS...$7k) aftermarket scan tools are not worth anything to a subaru mechanic or owner. they do not display accurate trouble codes.

Have you checked the tranny codes at all? you'll need a subaru select monitor, or a tool made by vikash or VRG3 as he is known. It's a program that you can download and get a cable, and plug into your car to read all kinds of information. You can datalog as well, if you download another program.

Your car has gone into safe mode, so it should only go to like 5 psi, but because you put that bleed-type fcd on there, not only is it running rich, but also unable to hold at a certain level.

What did you clean the "air sensor" with? Which I'm gonna assume you mean is the MAF.

And I'll repeat what I said originally:
Get a wideband if you don't want to blow your car up.

-Adam
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