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#1 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 176182
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: York, PA
Vehicle:1997 Legacy |
I snapped the pully bolt off in the crank of my EJ22T. I was wondering if I have different options on what to replace it with and what the benifits would be. I haven't looked too hard yet for any sort of aftermarket crank, I was thinking more OEM upgrades from different motors. Also, if thats not an option, I need to know if the EJ22 crank is the same as the turbo blocks crank. Thanks in advance!
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#2 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 6176
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Roy,WA
Vehicle:85 Brat,95 Impreza 05 Baja- Blue,Red& Purple |
You might be able to drill the bolt out, get an extractor in it and unscrew it still. Depends on how stuck it is. Might need a right angle drill and to pull the rad but still beats buying a motor.
Depends on how much HP you plan on making and how much you want to spend. If your doing a reasonable amount of HP and dont have boat loads of money I would just get a ej18 or ej22 core for pretty cheap and use the crank. I believe everything phase 1 (90-98) would work fine. |
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#3 | ||
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 133923
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:03 Legacy GT wagon I love goooollllllllddddd |
Quote:
Quote:
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#4 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 176182
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: York, PA
Vehicle:1997 Legacy |
The motor is out of the car, I have a 98 RS with an EJ22t and WRX heads, and a menniam stage III kit. I'm looking for the most benifitial upgrade. I was going to just get an old block out of this all subaru yard in town, but I wanted to be sure I could use a crank from a 1.8-2.0-2.2-2.5
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#5 |
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Scooby Guru
Member#: 832
Join Date: Jan 2000
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Teh Ghetto Garage, CO
Vehicle:99 2.5RS, '85 911 '73 914 and 2012 BRZ |
If you are looking to 'upgrade' get a phase I Ej25 crank and stroke your Ej22 up to 2.35l.
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#6 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 176182
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: York, PA
Vehicle:1997 Legacy |
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#7 |
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Scooby Guru
Member#: 15543
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: san francisco, ca
Vehicle:90BJ Legacy LS ABS AWD 946 Rio Red Jpn built |
No it requires custom internals from wiseco
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#8 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 74907
Join Date: Nov 2004
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: salem, OR
Vehicle:98 cam'd EJ251 Wrx Tranny,slowr than ish |
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#9 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 125304
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Crawford, TX.
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On a lot of broken bolts that are flush with the surface, I've taken a slightly larger nut and laid it on top of the bolt shaft and taken a ac stick welder or a wire feed and welded the nut to the bolt shaft and it comes out pretty easy. I know for sure this works on chev sb heads and aluminium blocks but I haven't tried it on a steel crank but what do you have to loose?
With the stick welder I use the ground clamp to hold the nut in place and it works pretty easy, you just fill up the inside of the nut with maybe a small blob on top. Don't mess up the outside of the nut if you can help it but if you do just use a vise-grip on it. The bolts usually aren't very tight and maybe the heat helps to loosen them. On one chevy head still in a k5 blazer the back exhaust manifold bolt on the pass. side had a 3/8 tap and a ezout in the same hole. Only a helicoil would fix that. I did get them out with about 5 1/2 nuts and the welder. They are neat conversation pieces. |
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#10 |
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Scooby Guru
Member#: 15543
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: san francisco, ca
Vehicle:90BJ Legacy LS ABS AWD 946 Rio Red Jpn built |
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