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Old 12-23-2015, 09:39 AM   #1
Maxwell914
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Default Looking to get a new Turbo

So my VF52 blew a seal and rather tend rebuild or go stock I'm looking to upgrade. I've read many of the FAQ's but they are a bit outdated. I have a 2011 WRX and am looking to do a bigger turbo but with a drop in application. I'd love to do the Blush 20G XTR but I can't seem to get any confirmation anywhere if it a direct fit for my year. The other options that I know fit are the blouch 440xt or the cavalli "stage 1" turbo (hesitant due to lack of reviews). Just looking for a little bit of info for fit and recommendations for a drop in turbo.

Thanks
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Old 12-23-2015, 10:45 AM   #2
Delphi
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Look at this turbo.

Will fit stock location and has the OEM flange for 08-14 WRX intercoolers.

http://steamturbochargers.com/index....acygt-8cm.html
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Old 12-23-2015, 12:28 PM   #3
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just keep in mind if you upgrade the turbo to do fuel pump and injectors
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Old 12-23-2015, 01:07 PM   #4
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You're gonna want to do tgv deletes, and a turbo intake tube while your in there.

Something else to consider, look at the bottom of the compressor cover on the vf52. See how it has that dent in it. It's there because you have a metal tube for the secondary air valve that sits in that area. (I've since removed that tube, but I had to cut it out of there since it was jammed up against my turbo.)

I put a Blouch 16gxtr on my o8 wrx. I got it on there, but it was mashed up against that tube, and the turbos inlet is positioned right at your tgv. I put a IAG delete on, it's much smaller than the factory tgv




I used the STI inlet because it has a offset end that hooks into the turbo, the wrx one is straight. But the STI inlet has its bypass tube positioned right where the wrx's secondary air valve is. I had to remove it...

I would think the LGT fitment specific turbos would be pointed a little over from the STI version, but I don't know for sure?
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Old 12-23-2015, 03:12 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by point78 View Post
You're gonna want to do tgv deletes, and a turbo intake tube while your in there.

Something else to consider, look at the bottom of the compressor cover on the vf52. See how it has that dent in it. It's there because you have a metal tube for the secondary air valve that sits in that area. (I've since removed that tube, but I had to cut it out of there since it was jammed up against my turbo.)

I put a Blouch 16gxtr on my o8 wrx. I got it on there, but it was mashed up against that tube, and the turbos inlet is positioned right at your tgv. I put a IAG delete on, it's much smaller than the factory tgv




I used the STI inlet because it has a offset end that hooks into the turbo, the wrx one is straight. But the STI inlet has its bypass tube positioned right where the wrx's secondary air valve is. I had to remove it...

I would think the LGT fitment specific turbos would be pointed a little over from the STI version, but I don't know for sure?
Great pictures thanks for that! I'm fulltreating prepared for the injectors and a fuel pump. If I get the deletes could I fit the 18g xtr? Kinda stuck on that one to be honest. I want to stick to a ball bearing turbo just for the reliability aspect if possible
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Old 12-23-2015, 09:24 PM   #6
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I just wanted to clarify that I'm not looking to make a 400 whp build. I'm just looking to upgrade the turbo injectors fuel pump and a ebcs and a good tune for now
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Old 12-24-2015, 08:39 PM   #7
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You need to know:

1. The FAQs may be old, but they are 100% spot on applicable ON THIS DAY just like the day of writing.
2. If you get a turbo capable of 400 WHP (Protip: a 20G will NOT get you there) and get it tuned for 400 WHP, set your watch and pay careful attention to which blows first....your motor or your transmission. One of them will blow. Then after you get the first fixed, the other will blow.

Not hating here, just availing you to the truth of 400WHP on a Subaru so you don't spend ~$3000 to get there and then 17 days later learn you need a $5000 motor and/or $5000 transmission.
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Old 12-24-2015, 11:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
You need to know:

1. The FAQs may be old, but they are 100% spot on applicable ON THIS DAY just like the day of writing.
2. If you get a turbo capable of 400 WHP (Protip: a 20G will NOT get you there) and get it tuned for 400 WHP, set your watch and pay careful attention to which blows first....your motor or your transmission. One of them will blow. Then after you get the first fixed, the other will blow.

Not hating here, just availing you to the truth of 400WHP on a Subaru so you don't spend ~$3000 to get there and then 17 days later learn you need a $5000 motor and/or $5000 transmission.
Yeah realistically I'm looking for around 300whp nothing more. I've read the FAQ's ad they have some great knowledge just limited info when it comes to fit on my make and model and requirements to make it fit. Thanks for the input I'll keep that in mind in case I end up bored with what ever route I go
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Old 12-24-2015, 11:53 PM   #9
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Any of the 18g, 20g variants are going to be setup as an sti or older wrx style. For the legacy gt/08 up wrx its a different compressor housing. Most upgraded tmic's have an option to switch the inlet tube for sti style turbos but for a straight bolt on affair you are going to need to look at the 380xt or the 440xt or one of the other lgt fitment turbos. The blouch 440xt is essentially a 20g in an lgt fitment. The 380xt is close to an 18g. I haven't seen many reviews on the cavalli turbos either other than a few good ones. I honestly couldn't trust them without more info either.
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Old 12-25-2015, 09:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaze13rex View Post
Any of the 18g, 20g variants are going to be setup as an sti or older wrx style. For the legacy gt/08 up wrx its a different compressor housing. Most upgraded tmic's have an option to switch the inlet tube for sti style turbos but for a straight bolt on affair you are going to need to look at the 380xt or the 440xt or one of the other lgt fitment turbos. The blouch 440xt is essentially a 20g in an lgt fitment. The 380xt is close to an 18g. I haven't seen many reviews on the cavalli turbos either other than a few good ones. I honestly couldn't trust them without more info either.
Do you know if the 440xt and 380xt are ball bearing or journal bearing? I wanted to do the 18g xtr to do a ball bearing turbo
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Old 12-25-2015, 09:56 AM   #11
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I honestly couldn't tell you for sure, they use a mitsubishi center section so I would assume that they are journal bearings. They offer the upgraded hpd turbine, but other than a billet compressor wheel and shaft I'm not seeing too much info on the difference. You have an 11 though which comes with a vf52 which is a 38/39lbs per minute turbo which is pretty close to an 18g. If I were you I wouldn't look for anything smaller than the 440xt, or 20gxtr. The dom 1.5 has also gotten some pretty good reviews with greater power capacity than either with very little if any loss in spool.
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:07 AM   #12
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We have been using the 440XT with a custom wheel. Basically turns it into a WRX flanged 1.5XTR good for 400WHP+ if needed and stock like spool.
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:46 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaze13rex View Post
I honestly couldn't tell you for sure, they use a mitsubishi center section so I would assume that they are journal bearings. They offer the upgraded hpd turbine, but other than a billet compressor wheel and shaft I'm not seeing too much info on the difference. You have an 11 though which comes with a vf52 which is a 38/39lbs per minute turbo which is pretty close to an 18g. If I were you I wouldn't look for anything smaller than the 440xt, or 20gxtr. The dom 1.5 has also gotten some pretty good reviews with greater power capacity than either with very little if any loss in spool.
I tried contacting blouch but I never get any response to emails I send out anymore so I'm going to try calling. Otherwise should I be one of the risky fews and go cavalli and test it out or say "F*** it" buyou a new top Mount and get a 20g xtr or the Dom 1.5
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Old 12-25-2015, 02:27 PM   #14
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Vf52 is a 35lb turbo
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Old 12-25-2015, 10:11 PM   #15
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If Tree Hundo is your goal, get you a 16G-XTR as it should offer the quickest spool and easily net you your goal. It will be a terrific daily driver turbo on a 2.5L as it's "too small" for it. I have one on my 2.5L hybrid and it make 360ish, but I have all the bolt ons on the planet. Super neat turbo.
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Old 12-31-2015, 11:22 PM   #16
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Just figured I'd update everyone and let them know what I went with. I got deatschwerks 1000cc injectors, dw300c fuel pump, Grimespeed ebcs, process west verticooler with traditional turbo upgrade house and a Blouch 20G XT-R. Thanks for the input everyone if you think I maDE a mistake let me know.
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:11 PM   #17
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Did you get a different turbo inlet tube?
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Old 01-04-2016, 09:03 PM   #18
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ID1000 over DW, DW suck.
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:40 PM   #19
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Do you have the numbers on your set up?
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Old 01-05-2016, 01:04 PM   #20
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Currently waiting on everything to come in then once I get an appointment for a dynamic run I'll post some numbers. DW got pretty good reviews everywhere I read up plus there is a rebate which makes the injectors cost me like 270 which is like nothing for 1000cc. It still the stock turbo intake size so it should work. Unless I'm a dummy and missed something. Trying to see if I can get a downpipe and an intake for the tune as well but we'll see.
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Old 01-05-2016, 03:42 PM   #21
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trust me & get a new silicon turbo intake.

(And ID1000 are the go to standard, you don't wanna cheap out here, your tuner will thank you)
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Old 01-06-2016, 02:02 AM   #22
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Just figured I mentioned that the injectors aren't the Factory refurbished cores but the Bosch cores. Tuner said it was an a okay so I'm sticking with that choice. If I run into issues I'll let you know so you can say you told me so. Why are the silicone turbo intake hoses $250 minimum
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Old 01-06-2016, 09:54 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwell914 View Post
Why are the silicone turbo intake hoses $250 minimum
The factory one is a thin flimsy one and prone to tearing when putting it back on the turbo. When you are hooking it back up to the turbo, you have to wrestle with it-its a b_tch getting it on. ( if you do tear it, your going to need a new one anyways)

I left mine stock, and it lasted about a year after putting the turbo on, then one day it developed a small tear on the bottom. Would have been MUCH easier just putting a new one in there when I originally put the turbo in-when installing the injectors is the time to do it because you have it all apart.

I know its an extra $250, when you are already spending a good chunk of $$, but its "almost" a necessity. Saves much of a headache during the install now, and another one down the road-the oem one will be a issue at some point.

I was thinking the same thing you were when I put my turbo on, the oem one is good enough. I wish someone had told me to put a new one in then, but I didn't ask anyone to know… (leave the "crash guards" off the fuel injectors too)
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:07 AM   #24
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another thing I just thought about with the install.

The hose that you hook up to the compressor outlet and up to the intercooler ran into the PCV valve that comes up out of the back of the engine. I had to kind of spin the thing around and push it out of the way, but there was no way to leave the electrical part hooked up-I had to unplug it and "jump" the connector. If you look at the IAG AOS .pdf instructions, it shows pictures of how to "jump" the connector. take a look and you will see what I'm taking about.

it is possible that the 20G is bigger than my 16g, and maybe yours will clear, but I doubt it.
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Old 01-07-2016, 03:21 AM   #25
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I had no luck getting a hold of blouch when i was ready to pull trigger on turbo upgrade. Like delphi said...steamspeed stx71 is a neat turbo on pump. Im happy with it and bolts on with no issues. Its a breeze to swap out. Id recommend it to you especially if you want to stick with the silly flange style snail.
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