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Old 03-27-2013, 04:36 PM   #351
volcm61gq
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Well the Sri is the Cobb air induction with the air box. So I'm assuming it'll be fine with the Cobb AP. I normally wouldn't use an intake but it was given to me for free haha
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:51 PM   #352
the suicidal eggroll
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volcm61gq View Post
Well the Sri is the Cobb air induction with the air box. So I'm assuming it'll be fine with the Cobb AP. I normally wouldn't use an intake but it was given to me for free haha
An sri with an air box is basically a cai, since even though the filter technically sits in the engine bay, all of the air is coming from the fender. So there's no problem there. The issue is with the true sri (injen, etc) or when intakes like the Cobb are installed without an air box.
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:43 AM   #353
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I hate reading the forums... The more I read about this ringland failure the more I just don't want to do any mods.

It really makes me want to just trade my car in.
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Old 04-01-2013, 12:04 PM   #354
Never Summer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by .SNap View Post
I hate reading the forums... The more I read about this ringland failure the more I just don't want to do any mods.

It really makes me want to just trade my car in.
The ringland failure rate isn't high. Do the right mods/tune and u won't have to worry. I no people well over 100k on stage 2 w zero issues ever.
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Old 04-01-2013, 01:10 PM   #355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Never Summer View Post
The ringland failure rate isn't high. Do the right mods/tune and u won't have to worry. I no people well over 100k on stage 2 w zero issues ever.
I'm probably going to do
DP stg2 and maybe CAI
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Old 04-01-2013, 01:12 PM   #356
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Oh brother. Just don't pretend your the Fast and the Furious and follow the maintenance schedule too. Just learn to drive what you have to its limits first. 99.9% of owners cant even come close.
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Old 04-01-2013, 01:14 PM   #357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by .SNap View Post
I hate reading the forums... The more I read about this ringland failure the more I just don't want to do any mods.

It really makes me want to just trade my car in.
Oh brother. Just don't pretend your the Fast and the Furious and follow the maintenance schedule too. Just learn to drive what you have to its limits first. 99.9% of owners cant even come close.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:41 PM   #358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Never Summer View Post
The ringland failure rate isn't high. Do the right mods/tune and u won't have to worry. I no people well over 100k on stage 2 w zero issues ever.
Statements like this are no more valid than someone saying that the failure rates are a majority. Just because you know several people or "people who know someone..." who have been fine, it doesn't mean that you can transpose that to the populace whole. You don't know how many cars were sold vs how many of those cars had ring land failures. For example...there's a car group that I know...where nearly every single individual has had a failure at least once. Ten cars...same locale...all had failures at stage 2 and below. Does that mean everyone will? No...does it mean it can happen? Absolutely! Is it highly probable? That's the debatable part.

Telling someone "to do it and they'll be fine" is easy to do when you're not paying for their engine after it pops. There's simply no way to know one way or the other.

All we really know is...it happens frequently enough that owners have taken notice. It happens frequently enough that nearly every aftermarket vendor has crate engines ready to go and offers builds (more than any other enthusiast car I've come across) for said engine. It happens enough that magazines address it specifically. Though not concrete quantifiable data, that should tell you something about the engine. But each person has to take it upon themselves to take that risk of modifying with the knowledge that it's a very real possibility that the engine will fail even with all the "right mods" and proper tuning.

Last edited by SATSTI; 04-01-2013 at 02:48 PM.
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:07 PM   #359
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It really does seem like a hit or miss with the 07-08STi's. I have over 100k on my 07 and at 55-60k range I upgraded to an FP Green and now, its at over 100k without any issue and has been on the dyno two separate times. I guess I'm very lucky? Who knows.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:05 AM   #360
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I just pick up my car used 3 weeks ago, I knew it had a fresh long block in it (only 3000 km's) but didn't know how extensive these ring-land issues are and thought I was set with a new motor. Honestly the more I read on here the more terrified I am to drive my car. I'm still on warranty so don't really want to tune it.

It melted down at 52000 kms, 2009.
Manufacturer: July 2008

Last edited by BeaverBanker; 04-02-2013 at 01:54 AM.
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:11 AM   #361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeaverBanker View Post
I just pick up my car used 3 weeks ago, I knew it had a fresh long block in it (only 3000 km's) but didn't know how extensive these ring-land issues are and thought I was set with a new motor. Honestly the more I read on here the more terrified I am to drive my car. I'm still on warranty so don't really want to tune it.

It melted down at 52000 kms, 2009.
Manufacturer: July 2008
I was the same way with mine. Always scared it would break. After a while I just said F it and drove it.
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:20 AM   #362
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Read through all 15 pages on this issue and am once again disappointed. I'm suppose to be looking at an 08 STI with what looks like a build date of Jan 08 on monday. The car has been in storage most of its life and only has 1800 miles on it. Super clean and a good deal. Now that I have read all of this i'm thinking against it.
The main reason for trying to get an STI is that my first choice of car, a 996, seems to also be plagued with engine issues. For the 996 its the IMS bearing. Problem is, that engine is like 15k for a new one.
Hopefully someone here will chime in with some advice for me. No plans of modding it, but I will be driving the hell out of it on the Autobahn here in Germany. Any help will be appreciated!!!!
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:04 PM   #363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justachillin2 View Post
Read through all 15 pages on this issue and am once again disappointed. I'm suppose to be looking at an 08 STI with what looks like a build date of Jan 08 on monday. The car has been in storage most of its life and only has 1800 miles on it. Super clean and a good deal. Now that I have read all of this i'm thinking against it.
The main reason for trying to get an STI is that my first choice of car, a 996, seems to also be plagued with engine issues. For the 996 its the IMS bearing. Problem is, that engine is like 15k for a new one.
Hopefully someone here will chime in with some advice for me. No plans of modding it, but I will be driving the hell out of it on the Autobahn here in Germany. Any help will be appreciated!!!!
The motor isn't going to like sustained autobahn speeds. You're going to need to watch the oil levels religously and use a heavier weight oil like a 5W-40.
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:34 PM   #364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justachillin2 View Post
Read through all 15 pages on this issue and am once again disappointed. I'm suppose to be looking at an 08 STI with what looks like a build date of Jan 08 on monday. The car has been in storage most of its life and only has 1800 miles on it. Super clean and a good deal. Now that I have read all of this i'm thinking against it.
The main reason for trying to get an STI is that my first choice of car, a 996, seems to also be plagued with engine issues. For the 996 its the IMS bearing. Problem is, that engine is like 15k for a new one.
Hopefully someone here will chime in with some advice for me. No plans of modding it, but I will be driving the hell out of it on the Autobahn here in Germany. Any help will be appreciated!!!!
Probably better to pass on that car anyhow. Typically when a car has been sitting for a long period of time, it tends to have issues.
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:18 PM   #365
justachillin2
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Probably better to pass on that car anyhow. Typically when a car has been sitting for a long period of time, it tends to have issues.
Thanks for the input guys! Saved me some headaches for sure. Now just have to find me a car that fun and some what reliable.
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:31 PM   #366
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Erm ... my car smoke blue when I first start. I overfill, yes... compression leakdown are consistent across the board +/- 1 or 2
Car pushes like its still new, no hesistant. No smoke coming out on oil filler. No rough idle, no cel
2012 wrx stg 1
17792 miles

My question is big difference between blue and white smoke? Or smoke is smoke ...???
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:33 PM   #367
the suicidal eggroll
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In general, white = water vapor or coolant and blue = oil. You can also tell by smell. Water vapor has none, oil smells dirty, coolant smells sweet.

If your compression and leakdown are fine, then it could be the turbo seals dumping oil into the exhaust.
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:47 PM   #368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the suicidal eggroll View Post
In general, white = water vapor or coolant and blue = oil. You can also tell by smell. Water vapor has none, oil smells dirty, coolant smells sweet.

If your compression and leakdown are fine, then it could be the turbo seals dumping oil into the exhaust.
If its just a puff... Carbon build up in the exhaust?
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:06 PM   #369
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^^no exhaust pipes don't smoke by themselves especially not from carbon build up. they smoke when something comes in contact with it. Ie. Oil coolant and water. And you don't really get carbon build up in exhaust pipes more like carbon residue.
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:52 PM   #370
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^^no exhaust pipes don't smoke by themselves especially not from carbon build up. they smoke when something comes in contact with it. Ie. Oil coolant and water. And you don't really get carbon build up in exhaust pipes more like carbon residue.
So you talked yourself in a circle to say, no probably not. Lol... Not build-up (which would also be called residue) but more like residue (that has built up).

I'm just busting on you. No disrespect.
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:10 PM   #371
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Lol none taken. Just trying to put things in terms that everyone can understand...hopefully. I was trying to illustrate the difference between carbon that builds up on pistons that you can scrape off and make a pile with vs exhaust pipe dirty residue And that is does not smoke.

Last edited by ringlander; 04-13-2013 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 04-14-2013, 12:22 AM   #372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the suicidal eggroll View Post
In general, white = water vapor or coolant and blue = oil. You can also tell by smell. Water vapor has none, oil smells dirty, coolant smells sweet.

If your compression and leakdown are fine, then it could be the turbo seals dumping oil into the exhaust.
Thanks and its not puff, its a big ass cloud of smoke, like big enough to cover my car and more (people might drive by and think my car is on fire).

Yeah I overfill like mad. Smell kind of like someone farted/rotten eggs kind of smell.
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:52 AM   #373
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After reading through this thread I have one question if anyone can answer. I've come across an 08 sti for a good price which had this problem. Everything was fixed and replaced by a local dealership. The car comes with all documentation on the repair along with a one year warranty. Should I assume there really isn't much to worry about now or could it happen again?
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:31 AM   #374
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After reading through this thread I have one question if anyone can answer. I've come across an 08 sti for a good price which had this problem. Everything was fixed and replaced by a local dealership. The car comes with all documentation on the repair along with a one year warranty. Should I assume there really isn't much to worry about now or could it happen again?
Don't assume that it can't happen again unless the o.e.m pistons were replaced with forged pistons. There's a really long thread here:
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-lite...continued.html
It describes some things that may help keep the stock pistons from breaking. In short it involves not allowing detonation to occur especially under higher rpms/loads. Proper fueling, cooling, maintenance and monitoring are the keys along with a good tune. Of course though they can be pushed beyond their designed reliability by improper modding, heat soak etc..
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Old 04-14-2013, 12:19 PM   #375
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Originally Posted by nmlittlebigman View Post

Don't assume that it can't happen again unless the o.e.m pistons were replaced with forged pistons. There's a really long thread here:
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-lite...continued.html
It describes some things that may help keep the stock pistons from breaking. In short it involves not allowing detonation to occur especially under higher rpms/loads. Proper fueling, cooling, maintenance and monitoring are the keys along with a good tune. Of course though they can be pushed beyond their designed reliability by improper modding, heat soak etc..
Thank you. I'll definitely read into before making my decision.
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