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Old 11-10-2008, 08:54 PM   #1
xlur8ed
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Default EJ20g IAC - available from a US Model?

I am sick of the cold start issues with the EJ20g IAC. I am to the point of ordering a new one from Subaru, but curious if this IAC is the same one that is used on a USDM Subaru.

Any/all help is appreciated!

Jason
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Old 11-10-2008, 11:38 PM   #2
kleinkid
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Default block heater?

I don't use the IAC valve, cold start was hard. Then, I installed an engine block heater. Plug it in, and in a few hours it is warm enough to start right up, heater works sooner also. You can put a timer on the power cord and have it go on before you wake up in the morning. I have a '91 Leg SS EJ22T, but the block heater is the same for all Subaru.

Part number A0910AS100 $31.68 from www.subarugenuineparts.com
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Old 11-10-2008, 11:41 PM   #3
Matt Monson
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There is not a US part that is the same. The Ej22T one is similar but all the coolant fittings are clocked in different directions as is the air hole.
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Old 11-11-2008, 01:17 AM   #4
rob
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Hey Matt,

Any chance you can take a side by side picture? It should be pretty easy to modify the air hole with a 90deg pipe bend. Not sure about the coolant hoses.

Does anybody have the ej22t and ej20G part numbers?

-Rob
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Old 11-11-2008, 03:37 AM   #5
kleinkid
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Default got em #'s

I have these here, so was able to get the number off of the IAC valves I have.
ej22t--22650AA110
ej20g--22650AA073
ej20r--22650AA132
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Old 11-11-2008, 10:30 AM   #6
Matt Monson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob View Post
Hey Matt,

Any chance you can take a side by side picture? It should be pretty easy to modify the air hole with a 90deg pipe bend. Not sure about the coolant hoses.

Does anybody have the ej22t and ej20G part numbers?

-Rob
I might even be able to do it faster than I can ship an ECU and cruise control parts...
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:59 AM   #7
rob
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I might even be able to do it faster than I can ship an ECU and cruise control parts...
Funny man.....but is that really saying much?
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Old 11-11-2008, 12:01 PM   #8
rob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kleinkid View Post
I have these here, so was able to get the number off of the IAC valves I have.
ej22t--22650AA110
ej20g--22650AA073
ej20r--22650AA132
Thanks for the numbers.

-Rob
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Old 11-11-2008, 02:25 PM   #9
xlur8ed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kleinkid View Post
I don't use the IAC valve, cold start was hard. Then, I installed an engine block heater. Plug it in, and in a few hours it is warm enough to start right up, heater works sooner also. You can put a timer on the power cord and have it go on before you wake up in the morning. I have a '91 Leg SS EJ22T, but the block heater is the same for all Subaru.

Part number A0910AS100 $31.68 from www.subarugenuineparts.com
I appreciate your idea much, but I would like to dig a bit deeper and try and figure out a solution while keeping the IACV.

rob, please keep me posted if you have any luck with a replacement....you are much wiser than this guy, and I will keep digging as well.
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Old 11-11-2008, 02:57 PM   #10
kleinkid
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Default IAC and block heater

I just tried to give you an option. I don't live in the barren frozen tundra like you do, so a working IAC valve would be the best way for you to go. A block heater is what a smart person would use also.
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Old 11-11-2008, 03:25 PM   #11
rob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xlur8ed View Post
I appreciate your idea much, but I would like to dig a bit deeper and try and figure out a solution while keeping the IACV.
Since my start issues are slowly creeping back after cleaning my IACV, I am seriously considering buying a new one. The real question is if it would be possible to modify the ej22t version to fit the std ej20g. The main issue is going to be interference with the IC. Without having one in hand, its hard to imagine how possible it is.

Matt or Klein, do either of you have a spare ej22t IACV that you could send for me to fiddle with (junk or not, doesn't matter)?

Here are my thoughts on this issue;

I see 3 possible reasons why the IACV could have these sort of performance issues;

1) The circuit; There are essentially 2 seperate coils that are engergized to cause the butterfly valve to swing back and forth. It's possible that over time and heat cycles, the coil resistance when cold may have enough of a mismatch to cause uncontrollable movement

2) Butterfly valve; The assumption we all have been making is that over time this gets gummed up and causes restricted movement.

3) Coolant section; it seems the main purpose of the part of the IACV is to adjust the butterfly valve offset to allow a greater open when the coolant is below some temp. It would match observed behavior if this mechanism somehow fails over time.

To solve this, we need to take a car exhibiting this problem, replace it with a new IACV and see if it goes away once and for all. Then I would suggest we dissect the failing IACV. Once we get good idea which of the 3 areas above is causing problems, we can muse over possible fixes.

-Rob
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Old 11-11-2008, 04:29 PM   #12
kleinkid
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The only ej22t IAC I have is installed on my car. Otherwise, if I did have a spare you could have it. Sorry.
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:10 PM   #13
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The basic bodies all look the same. The "coil" on top looks the same on all three. I haven't take one apart yet, but, it looks like a good EJ25D/EJ22T IAC could be taken apart and it's guts used to rebuild a bad EJ20G one.

Or there might be a way to remove the water/air pipes and epoxy the EJ20G ones in place?

High rez shots here. http://flickr.com/photos/23291496@N0...7608911227186/
Click on a pic and then on 'all sizes'
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Old 11-12-2008, 12:11 AM   #14
SeveredPerformance
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I am having some of these same issues on my swap, but it is now worse after I changed the coolant temp sensor (to a USDM 96 impreza 2.2 one) Now I have very hard starting when it's cold, and kind of a crappy idle, as if a cylinder is misfiring. I wonder if I got a bad replacement sensor?

I pulled my IAC off to look at it, and the butterfly rotates very easily, so it is not plugged up. I think the problem must be in the motor part, as I also have a highly variable idle speed.

Also of note, there is a little diaphragm inside the manifold where these bolt on, I took mine out and it looked ok, but it is something else to consider for anyone else who pulls one off their car to inspect it.
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Old 11-12-2008, 05:16 PM   #15
ciper
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The 90-94 EJ22NA is also extremely similar to those pictured. Its connections are most similar to the EJ25D unit while the case is more similar to the EJ22T.

Someone I know says that electrically the EJ22T unit is the same as a turbo EJ20 from 1994 if that helps any.
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Old 11-12-2008, 08:39 PM   #16
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xlur8ed you have a pm
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Old 11-13-2008, 12:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeveredPerformance View Post
I am having some of these same issues on my swap, but it is now worse after I changed the coolant temp sensor (to a USDM 96 impreza 2.2 one) Now I have very hard starting when it's cold, and kind of a crappy idle, as if a cylinder is misfiring. I wonder if I got a bad replacement sensor?

I pulled my IAC off to look at it, and the butterfly rotates very easily, so it is not plugged up. I think the problem must be in the motor part, as I also have a highly variable idle speed.

Also of note, there is a little diaphragm inside the manifold where these bolt on, I took mine out and it looked ok, but it is something else to consider for anyone else who pulls one off their car to inspect it.

Replaced my coolant temp sensor as well and my cold starts are a bit better. I agree on that diaphram tho... not sure what it does but I cleaned mine up a bit before re-installing it.

BTW, I can get a new EJ20G IACV but at over $400 is it really worth it?

-Mike.
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Old 11-13-2008, 03:06 PM   #18
xlur8ed
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Well if we are thinking it is a magnetic field issue, I am curious if we could simply remove the top section of a known working EJ25D IAC and test using this method? It looks like the plug connection is opposite the Ej20g, so would it be ok to cut and lengthen the wires to allow for this change?
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Old 11-13-2008, 05:32 PM   #19
rob
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If the connector was the other way, I think it would interfere with the intercooler.

We simply need to disect a couple of these to see what's possible.

-Rob
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Old 11-13-2008, 06:21 PM   #20
kingsubi
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Ej20K

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Old 11-13-2008, 06:58 PM   #21
johnny p
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I have used the EJ25D IACV solenoid . It works on the EJ20G no problems.
Also pulled apart, cleaned,polished and reassembled the G IACV .
It is working well now.

Rob If you could hook me up with loaner ECU , I could send out the SA to you. John.
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Old 11-13-2008, 07:27 PM   #22
rob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingsubi View Post
Ej20K

What's the part number on this one?

-Rob
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Old 11-13-2008, 07:35 PM   #23
rob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny p View Post
I have used the EJ25D IACV solenoid . It works on the EJ20G no problems.
Also pulled apart, cleaned,polished and reassembled the G IACV .
It is working well now.

Rob If you could hook me up with loaner ECU , I could send out the SA to you. John.
Hey John,

What exactly do you mean that you used the EJ25D part. What did you modify to make it fit?

Can you explain exactly what you did to open up and clean the IACV? I would like to know how it worked before and after.

I'll PM you about the SA ECU a little later.

-Rob
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Old 11-13-2008, 08:48 PM   #24
johnny p
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Atop the IACV is the soleniod which fits over the top of the Valve.
This controls the magnet on the top valve shaft.
No mod nessesary just replace the solenoid on the G with the EJ25D one.
I imagine there are others that would work.

To disassamble :

Cut off the sealer on the bottom plate.
Take care to observe the position of the bi-metal spring underneath in relation to the cover,and the housing.

Gind off the peened over part of the IACV

Take off the magnet on the top shaft ,then the bushing and clip.

Then press out the two part shaft,allowing the bottom 2 part stepped bore sealing plugs to slide out.
And your done.

Last edited by johnny p; 11-13-2008 at 08:54 PM.
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Old 11-14-2008, 01:02 AM   #25
rob
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Cool John. Good info.

Did you orginally have the same cold start issue? From your experience did replacing the solenoid fix it, or was completely disassembling and cleaning what did the trick?

-Rob
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