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Old 06-12-2016, 10:02 PM   #1
WRXwrbNM
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Default Upgraded Sound

Evening All,

So I finally pulled the trigger and upgraded the sound in my '16. I added an alpine power pack to up the juice to the stock speakers and added a sub in the trunk (I had this in my previous vehicles) Rockford Fosgate P-300 10'' powered subwoofer. I had a friend on mine do the install as he used to work at an audio install place.

Overall impressions, it sounds much better. Where I used to have the volume at 20+, I know have a hard time cresting 10. The sub adds some good bottom end to help fill out the sound.

Of course the new is not all good.....I've noticed since having this done that my speakers pop when I turn my car on. Sounds like all of the speakers. Also, when the volume is extremely low, especially when the lights are turned on, I can hear a whine. It is not distinguishable when I am listening to music at almost any level, but still annoying. My buddy is going to look into fixing these two issues...was wondering if anyone here has experience with this and what worked for you?
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Old 06-12-2016, 10:24 PM   #2
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That is disheartening since I am gathering my harnesses to do this exact upgrade. Might have to rethink it and do a HU upgrade instead.
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:25 AM   #3
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is the setting on the powerpak for high level? if so don't use the blue/white amp turn on wire if you did. its not needed with high level inputs. you should adjust the gains lower if possible so that you can turn your headunit up higher. it will give you more headroom and probably more linear bass response from your subwoofer.
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:09 PM   #4
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I'm surprised no one has chimed in since it seems so many have this amp. I'm guessing your friend didn't use a breakout harness. Maybe like it was stated he used the wrong amp turn on signal, the consensus seems to be the key on 12+ wire.
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:46 PM   #5
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Did you run the power cable down the same side as your speaker wire? If so that is your problem. The speaker wire picks up noise from the power cable.
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Old 06-15-2016, 04:51 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freshprince13 View Post
Did you run the power cable down the same side as your speaker wire? If so that is your problem. The speaker wire picks up noise from the power cable.

negative. This does not apply for car audio since the power level is so low. In high power professional audio applications, this could apply. The rule in car audio is to avoid power wires and signal wires to run parallel in close proximity. Power wire down one side, RCAs down the other.
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:28 AM   #7
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ive got a Alpine HD149BT single din w/ power pack and sirius mod for sale. Its a huge upgrade over stock, especially if you have upgraded speakers as well. Night and day difference.
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Old 06-16-2016, 10:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corlon View Post
is the setting on the powerpak for high level? if so don't use the blue/white amp turn on wire if you did. its not needed with high level inputs. you should adjust the gains lower if possible so that you can turn your headunit up higher. it will give you more headroom and probably more linear bass response from your subwoofer.
So I took it back to the installer and he did turn down the gain on the PowerPack. It seems a little better now. It is def much better than it was before....the pop is still there when turning on the system but it's much more muted (almost not noticeable). I still hear humming when the volume is very low or off.

I feel like the EQ for this stock HU is all over the place though. I've fiddled with it for a while now and got it to where I think it sounds best. Still doesn't sound as good as a premium "from the factory" sound system but def much better than before.
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Old 06-16-2016, 10:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meoshe View Post
I'm surprised no one has chimed in since it seems so many have this amp. I'm guessing your friend didn't use a breakout harness. Maybe like it was stated he used the wrong amp turn on signal, the consensus seems to be the key on 12+ wire.
No we didn't use the breakout harness....not sure what you mean by the 12+ wire.....I'm not that up to speed on the overall system. Let me know how yours turns out using the harness....
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Old 06-20-2016, 02:03 AM   #10
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One other thing I came across was to make sure to adjust the amp switch to high level input, its the adjustable switches on the underside.
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Old 06-20-2016, 10:36 AM   #11
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The whine/hum will be from the alternator, a simple inline filter on the outputs will fix it. The pop is inherent of any system with a sub woofer, it comes from the initial burst of power once reaching the amp. Best way to fix that is a secondary battery. Some people may recommend a capacitor but, from my experience, it can cause voltage drops at the amp and cause it to overheat under extreme loads. For your system as you have described it, either will work fine though a capacitor will cause a pop when shutting down as it releases the stored energy. I currently run a Pioneer AVH 5500 with upgraded door speakers and 2 12" Kicker L7s on a Brutus Hifonics Elite 2100w amp. I use a second O.E. battery for my system to keep the voltages consistent and maintain the aH out put
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Old 06-22-2016, 06:20 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXwrbNM View Post

I feel like the EQ for this stock HU is all over the place though. I've fiddled with it for a while now and got it to where I think it sounds best. Still doesn't sound as good as a premium "from the factory" sound system but def much better than before.
Yes, unless it finally changed for the 16, the stock head unit has horrible built in equalization. Have you put it in through mode yet? If not do a search and find the thread on the hidden menu. Putting the head unit in through mode improves sound quality.
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:10 PM   #13
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^^ No through mode on the 16' starlink unit, only on 15s
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Old 06-24-2016, 05:08 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by rexster View Post
Yes, unless it finally changed for the 16, the stock head unit has horrible built in equalization. Have you put it in through mode yet? If not do a search and find the thread on the hidden menu. Putting the head unit in through mode improves sound quality.
Like it was already said this doesn't seem to exist on the 16s anymore. I did do that trick in my 2014 and it did sound better.
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Old 06-24-2016, 05:10 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackal9580 View Post
The whine/hum will be from the alternator, a simple inline filter on the outputs will fix it. The pop is inherent of any system with a sub woofer, it comes from the initial burst of power once reaching the amp. Best way to fix that is a secondary battery. Some people may recommend a capacitor but, from my experience, it can cause voltage drops at the amp and cause it to overheat under extreme loads. For your system as you have described it, either will work fine though a capacitor will cause a pop when shutting down as it releases the stored energy. I currently run a Pioneer AVH 5500 with upgraded door speakers and 2 12" Kicker L7s on a Brutus Hifonics Elite 2100w amp. I use a second O.E. battery for my system to keep the voltages consistent and maintain the aH out put
Thanks for the response and info! Honestly since turning down the amplifier it hasn't bugged me as much. The reason it bothered me is when I had the same sub installed in my 15 Focus ST there was no pop at all. Dunno what was done differently there or if it's just because it's a different system.
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Old 06-24-2016, 05:11 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Meoshe View Post
One other thing I came across was to make sure to adjust the amp switch to high level input, its the adjustable switches on the underside.
Hmm ok. The amp was installed behind my center console (where the cigarette lighter is located) so would have to pull the trim off to check. Will check with the installer to see if this was done. Have you installed yours yet?
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:23 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by bobditts View Post
negative. This does not apply for car audio since the power level is so low. In high power professional audio applications, this could apply. The rule in car audio is to avoid power wires and signal wires to run parallel in close proximity. Power wire down one side, RCAs down the other.
Come on Bob, you know better than that. This is also false. I have run power next to signal in literally every system I've ever built, both professionally and for myself.
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:27 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackal9580 View Post
The whine/hum will be from the alternator, a simple inline filter on the outputs will fix it. The pop is inherent of any system with a sub woofer, it comes from the initial burst of power once reaching the amp. Best way to fix that is a secondary battery. Some people may recommend a capacitor but, from my experience, it can cause voltage drops at the amp and cause it to overheat under extreme loads. For your system as you have described it, either will work fine though a capacitor will cause a pop when shutting down as it releases the stored energy. I currently run a Pioneer AVH 5500 with upgraded door speakers and 2 12" Kicker L7s on a Brutus Hifonics Elite 2100w amp. I use a second O.E. battery for my system to keep the voltages consistent and maintain the aH out put
A filter isn't a fix, it's a band-aid, and a poor one. Fix the actual problem, don't mask it. It is also NOT inherent in any system with a sub. I've NEVER had it. Ever. You second battery is nothing more than a HUGE drain on the alternator when the car is running. The only thing it gives you is more listening time with the engine off. A capacitor will not cause a pop, but it's also not useful in any way, shape, or form.

Every piece of advice you gave the OP was bad. Literally every piece of it.
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:45 PM   #19
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I have not installed mine yet. I am going to wire the speaker wires directly to try to trigger the amp that way instead of using the remote wire to the 12volt acc wire. The more I look it up, it seems that using a low quality rca converter or just wiring rca ends to the speaker output of the stereo introduces the most noise.
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Old 06-25-2016, 05:30 AM   #20
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but it's also not useful in any way, shape, or form.
I was with you for every word until you got to this part. Capacitors do have a place. Just not what everyone thinks they are for. They are most effective when used for noise filtering. Certain power sources are prone to introducing unwanted noise into your power. Installing a capacitor will help to filter out this unwanted noise.
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