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Old 10-25-2009, 10:50 PM   #76
allday789
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Great post, glad to see it was made a sticky.
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:10 PM   #77
Davenow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papa b View Post
So I guess what you're saying is that it's NOT the numbers but the DIFFERENCE in the numbers when you're finished that really matters no matter what kind of dyno you're on.....yes?

Exactly!! (same guy)
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:11 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subyrex03 View Post
I haven't done a lot to my car, but I put down 217 with a boost controller going in and out of boost while on the dyno. I left the shop and played with it and smoothed out the engine. I haven't been back yet to check it again. Thats not great , but not bad. I'm going for more of the handeling than all out hp.

Could be great.

The local mustang dyno your car would have made MAYBE 160whp stock. MAYBE. What does the dyno you were done on show for a stock car?
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:49 PM   #79
under0athh51189
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alright so here is my car and current upgrades. going to get dyno tuned by scott seagal next month at S&R performance in tampa florida. should be around 70 or so out. i believe on there site it says they have DYNOmite Data Acquisition Computer if that is the type of dyno. idk. but here are my current mods

05 wrx 5 speed

cobb short ram
gimmick turbo inlet
blouch evo III big 16g
750cc deatschwerks injectors
walbro fp
megan dp
turbo xs catback
hks up
precision fmic
looking to tune at 20psi
93octane

hoping to put down 300whp/300wtq
what else do i need to put this down or is this enough
also what should my 1/4 mile be. hoping for 12s
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Old 11-05-2009, 04:30 AM   #80
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so nobody?
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Old 11-06-2009, 03:23 AM   #81
PSM_02_WRX
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1. HP at the WHEELS (whp) or hp at the CRANK (chp)? I want to make somewhere between 400-500whp. Moneys not a problem so I don't want the typical "oh its going to cost you" type of response.

2. What type of dyno are you going to be shooting for this number on? Not sure, Its going to possibly be at either Agile Auto or IAG (Both members on here in the MAIC forums)

3. If possible, tell us what shop it is. Someone may know how high or low that particular dyno reads. As stated, Agile or IAG

4. Where do you live? If not a well known city, what is the elevation?
Maryland

5. What kind of gas will you be using? (octane level)
93 Octane

6. Are you opposed to a FMIC?
Getting Stealth FMIC

Current Upgrades:
TurboXS short ram intake
TurboXS turbo back exhaust
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Old 11-06-2009, 01:05 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by under0athh51189 View Post
so nobody?
Dont know how their dyno reads, and that isnt a dyno I have heard of, so unfortunately I have no idea, I assume no one else does since no one else replied.


I would say your best option is to give them a call and ask what kinds of setups are laying down that kind of power IN A SUBARU.
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Old 11-06-2009, 01:13 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSM_02_WRX View Post
1. HP at the WHEELS (whp) or hp at the CRANK (chp)? I want to make somewhere between 400-500whp. Moneys not a problem so I don't want the typical "oh its going to cost you" type of response.

2. What type of dyno are you going to be shooting for this number on? Not sure, Its going to possibly be at either Agile Auto or IAG (Both members on here in the MAIC forums)


3. If possible, tell us what shop it is. Someone may know how high or low that particular dyno reads. As stated, Agile or IAG

4. Where do you live? If not a well known city, what is the elevation?
Maryland

5. What kind of gas will you be using? (octane level)
93 Octane

6. Are you opposed to a FMIC?
Getting Stealth FMIC

Current Upgrades:
TurboXS short ram intake
TurboXS turbo back exhaust


Not sure how their dyno reads, but 450-500 takes approx the same on *most* dynos. That range doesnt vary as much as when you are looking at 250-400whp.


You HAVE TO do a motor. MINIMUM you will need pistons. I highly recommend doing at least a light p&p on the heads as well as mild cams. Since you are in there, it wouldnt be a bad idea to do a set of rods, but at that power level, they arent super necessary. But if you have the money, I woul recommend "doing it right" instead of "just doing what are the bare essentials"


You should start off with a 2.5L WRX or STI long block. Because you definitely want the extra 25% displacement, or your setup will be INCREDIBLY laggy. Dont try to hit that power level with a hybrid 2.5block/2.0heads setup.

I would do

100mm pistons (have the block machined specifically to your pistons, once you have them send them and the block to the machine shop)
rods (your choice)
Real P&P on the heads. I like Slowboy for head work.
272 non AVCS cams (you can buy AVCS eliminator cams for AVCS heads)
1000cc deatschwerks injectors (same price as 850s, definitely not overkill)
pump (obviously)

Other than that, a FMIC and a GT35R will get you where you need to be. You can make 450whp without even trying to break a sweat with that headwork and cams. It will be a very "low stress" situation at 450whp. This is a setup that can knock out over 550whp on meth injection and an aggressive tune. 450whp should come at abour 22psi, which is low, cool and efficient for that turbo. You could get there on a 30R, but it will take a lot more of an agressive tune and more boost, therefor, less safe.

Then obviously you need to deal with the driveline, a 6 speed drivetrain swap, including the rear diff would be your best option.

Maybe look for a good deal on the entire setup, engine, tranny, driveshaft/diff/axles

If you already have a 6 speed or PPGs you are good there. If you are on the R160 rear diff, get rid of it.

If you are still on the stock tranny and 2.0L motor, get a good $20,000 pile of cash ready. It will be a STUPID huge upgrade from your current setup though And you never really see bugeyes with setups like this, most start with an STI.

Then again, some start with a Forester
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Old 11-25-2009, 03:40 AM   #84
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250 awhp
Shop is HBspeed
91 octane
OC CAlifornia
mods are AP stage 1, K&N drop in filter

Last edited by SoCal_Scooby; 11-25-2009 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 11-25-2009, 04:27 AM   #85
elscoobie20
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Might as well

1. HP at the WHEELS (whp) or hp at the CRANK (chp)?

300-320 whp

2. What type of dyno are you going to be shooting for this number on?

I have no clue

3. If possible, tell us what shop it is. Someone may know how high or low that particular dyno reads.

HB Speed

4. Where do you live? If not a well known city, what is the elevation?

Manhattan Beach, CA aka sea level

5. What kind of gas will you be using? (octane level)

Craptastic California 91 Octane

6. Are you opposed to a FMIC?

Eh... I'm not really quite sure on that one, I'd prefer to stay TMIC, but if it's really going to help...

------------------------------------

Also atm my car is bone stock aside from a short shifter and a Cobb CBE, currently waiting on my Perrin two-piece downpipe (catted) after which I'll be taking it to get its Stage II tune.

Essentially I'd like to know what else I should look at doing after my Stage II to get to 300-320 (which is what I hear the limits of the VF52 is)
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Old 01-09-2010, 11:58 PM   #86
john elsbree
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1. HP at the WHEELS (whp) or hp at the CRANK (chp)?

375 whp

2. What type of dyno are you going to be shooting for this number on?
mustang

3. If possible, tell us what shop it is. Someone may know how high or low that particular dyno reads.
kito auto sports seattle, wa

4. Where do you live? If not a well known city, what is the elevation?

seattle, wa - sea level

5. What kind of gas will you be using? (octane level)

92

6. Are you opposed to a FMIC

nope, looking to get a aps dr525

current mods are;
HTA68 Turbo
Cobb TBE
APS cold air intake
Perrin light weight crank pulley
TGV Deletes
CX Racing tmic
820cc injectors
walbro fuel pump
last tuning results were 285whp and 305tq

I'm about to do get a aps dr525 fmic and tial 44mm external wastegate. Any opinions on this set up? what i could do differently? or where to go next? thanks!!!
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Old 01-10-2010, 02:14 AM   #87
Audiosavvy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john elsbree View Post
1. HP at the WHEELS (whp) or hp at the CRANK (chp)?

375 whp

2. What type of dyno are you going to be shooting for this number on?
mustang

3. If possible, tell us what shop it is. Someone may know how high or low that particular dyno reads.
kito auto sports seattle, wa

4. Where do you live? If not a well known city, what is the elevation?

seattle, wa - sea level

5. What kind of gas will you be using? (octane level)

92

6. Are you opposed to a FMIC

nope, looking to get a aps dr525

current mods are;
HTA68 Turbo
Cobb TBE
APS cold air intake
Perrin light weight crank pulley
TGV Deletes
CX Racing tmic
820cc injectors
walbro fuel pump
last tuning results were 285whp and 305tq

I'm about to do get a aps dr525 fmic and tial 44mm external wastegate. Any opinions on this set up? what i could do differently? or where to go next? thanks!!!

You will be lucky to break 330whp realistically on that turbo and 92 octane.

If you want 375 whp on pump gas, you're going to need a 3076 or DomIII at minimum
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Old 01-10-2010, 02:35 AM   #88
john elsbree
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Yeah Im thinking that'll get me up to the 320whp range, I'm sure I'll have to go to a different turbo to get to mid 300's. What about headers? I'm looking at the aps equal length headers, any thoughts or suggestions??
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Old 01-10-2010, 03:13 AM   #89
06STi
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1. HP at the WHEELS (whp) or hp at the CRANK (chp)?
300 whp

2. What type of dyno are you going to be shooting for this number on?
LPS 3000

3. If possible, tell us what shop it is. Someone may know how high or low that particular dyno reads.
(private owned)

4. Where do you live? If not a well known city, what is the elevation?
Northern Cali and Phx AZ


5. What kind of gas will you be using? (octane level)
91oct most the time

6. Are you opposed to a FMIC
I have a aps dr525

current mods are;
ATP gt3076R Turbo ewg hotside Tial 44mm wg
Custom hks downpipe (catless)
JIC Ti catback
APS 70mm cold air intake
APS turbo inlet
APS 50/50 bov
APS dr525 fmic
Cosworth intake
Cosworth oil pump
Moroso oil pan and pick up
Engine cases spec'd and polished insides
ARP head studs
ARP case bolts
ARP rod bolts
Cosmetic oem thickness head gaskets
CP pistons (100mm)
Cosworth rods
Everything balenced
OEM STi crank mico polished and cleaned up
ACL bearings
Cosworth cams
ported and cleaned up heads
1mm over supertech valves
supertech springs and retainers, buckets
TGV Deletes
8mm pholic spacers
Perrin V1 fuel rail
Detwk 740's
Walbro fuel pump
Samco hoses
mishmoto radiator
ported oem exhaust manifolds and oem catless uppipe

Not been dynoed yet, putting motor togther now
Any ideas? what it might make?
Oh and I'm running a 6spd now with cusco f/r lsd's
Will be tuned this time with an AP, I ____ canned the ecutek crap
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Old 01-11-2010, 11:12 AM   #90
Davenow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john elsbree View Post
Yeah Im thinking that'll get me up to the 320whp range, I'm sure I'll have to go to a different turbo to get to mid 300's. What about headers? I'm looking at the aps equal length headers, any thoughts or suggestions??

That turbo is just flat out a poor match for the STI motor in general. At any power level, its choking the motor off badly. Between the 7cm hot side and the small compressor housing, it just cant flow enough for the 2.5L motor to work efficiently.

The APS headers are nice, but unfortunately I have heard a lot of reports of cracking problems with them.
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Old 01-11-2010, 11:33 AM   #91
Fail Wagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06STi View Post
1. HP at the WHEELS (whp) or hp at the CRANK (chp)?
300 whp

2. What type of dyno are you going to be shooting for this number on?
LPS 3000

3. If possible, tell us what shop it is. Someone may know how high or low that particular dyno reads.
(private owned)

4. Where do you live? If not a well known city, what is the elevation?
Northern Cali and Phx AZ


5. What kind of gas will you be using? (octane level)
91oct most the time

6. Are you opposed to a FMIC
I have a aps dr525

current mods are;
ATP gt3076R Turbo ewg hotside Tial 44mm wg
Custom hks downpipe (catless)
JIC Ti catback
APS 70mm cold air intake
APS turbo inlet
APS 50/50 bov
APS dr525 fmic
Cosworth intake
Cosworth oil pump
Moroso oil pan and pick up
Engine cases spec'd and polished insides
ARP head studs
ARP case bolts
ARP rod bolts
Cosmetic oem thickness head gaskets
CP pistons (100mm)
Cosworth rods
Everything balenced
OEM STi crank mico polished and cleaned up
ACL bearings
Cosworth cams
ported and cleaned up heads
1mm over supertech valves
supertech springs and retainers, buckets
TGV Deletes
8mm pholic spacers
Perrin V1 fuel rail
Detwk 740's
Walbro fuel pump
Samco hoses
mishmoto radiator
ported oem exhaust manifolds and oem catless uppipe

Not been dynoed yet, putting motor togther now
Any ideas? what it might make?
Oh and I'm running a 6spd now with cusco f/r lsd's
Will be tuned this time with an AP, I ____ canned the ecutek crap
seems like a fully built motor is a little over the top for 300whp. that setup could make a lot more power
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Old 01-11-2010, 12:17 PM   #92
dauss
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Another thing that the first post should include is the type of tires. Snow tires will read lower than summer performance tires. On a Dyno Dynamics, a tuner here in Colorado found that it was about a 10whp-25whp difference between snow and summer tires.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:44 PM   #93
06STi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fail Wagon View Post
seems like a fully built motor is a little over the top for 300whp. that setup could make a lot more power
And I am hoping for it too...

Just not sure what it may bring.
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Old 01-12-2010, 12:58 AM   #94
john elsbree
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davenow View Post
That turbo is just flat out a poor match for the STI motor in general. At any power level, its choking the motor off badly. Between the 7cm hot side and the small compressor housing, it just cant flow enough for the 2.5L motor to work efficiently.

The APS headers are nice, but unfortunately I have heard a lot of reports of cracking problems with them.
Thanks for the reply, I'm thinking about changing to a DOM III, i've only heard good things. i went with the hta68 because i needed a new turbo and thats pretty much all i could afford. Anything else you'd recommend for my set up?
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Old 01-28-2010, 05:12 PM   #95
SpeddeN
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1. HP at the WHEELS (whp) or hp at the CRANK (chp)?
Looking for around 300whp.

2. What type of dyno are you going to be shooting for this number on?
Not sure what type Precision Tuning uses.

3. If possible, tell us what shop it is. Someone may know how high or low that particular dyno reads.
Precision Tuning down south Jersey.

4. Where do you live? If not a well known city, what is the elevation?
North Jersey unsure.

5. What kind of gas will you be using? (octane level)
93

6. Are you opposed to a FMIC?
unnecessary i think for what i wanna gain

06 wrx- blouch 16g/turoxsTMIC/DW 750s/walbro pump/hks intake/invidia catless DP/hks exhaust/cobb apv2...

this thread was great tho learned some good stuff...any opinions on the setup im planning on going with??
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Old 01-31-2010, 09:16 PM   #96
luismiguel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prevent View Post
Yes its true. Mustang dyno's generally read lower then other dynos. However some shops have setup their dynojets (P&L) to give similiar "low" reading numbers to the mustang. IMO these are more "real" then any other number created on the dynojets/dynapacks.

The mustang dyno by me is like a rolling road. It will apply it's brakes to a certian percent to give resistance/drag depending on the vehicle weight.

I put down 220whp/230wtq stock and 262whp/286wtq stage II. Obviously those numbers are FAR from impressive, but the car can still do 12.9 in the 1/4 and whip you back in your seat.

A dyno should be used as a tuning tool, and used to compare numbers vs stock form. the 262whp/286 means nothing to me. gaining 42whp and 56wtq while stage two on the same dyno means something to me.

Im no dyno expert and i kinda rambled, hope it somewhat helps you.
Very goog post!
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Old 01-31-2010, 09:31 PM   #97
subaragnarok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06STi View Post
And I am hoping for it too...

Just not sure what it may bring.
W/ an aggressive tune, I wouldn't be surprised to see that setup get into the 400's
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:45 PM   #98
VT_Hatch
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2009 WRX hatch.

1. HP at the WHEELS (whp) or hp at the CRANK (chp)?
Looking for a conservative 320-340 crank for DD.

2. What type of dyno are you going to be shooting for this number on?
Dynojet 248C

3. If possible, tell us what shop it is. Someone may know how high or low that particular dyno reads.
Quintin Brothers is the nearest dyno shop. (Vermont Sports Car doesn't really do public work, unfortunately)

4. Where do you live? If not a well known city, what is the elevation?
Burlington Vermont, not much over sea level.

5. What kind of gas will you be using? (octane level)
Always 93 octane

6. Are you opposed to a FMIC? (this way we dont recommend one if you dont want it, or we DO recommend it if you DO want it and it would be beneficial to your setup/goals) (sp?)
Not opposed, but probably not worth it yet.
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:06 PM   #99
Audiosavvy
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LT1 Formula Firebird

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Quote:
Originally Posted by VT_Hatch View Post
2009 WRX hatch.

1. HP at the WHEELS (whp) or hp at the CRANK (chp)?
Looking for a conservative 320-340 crank for DD.

2. What type of dyno are you going to be shooting for this number on?
Dynojet 248C

3. If possible, tell us what shop it is. Someone may know how high or low that particular dyno reads.
Quintin Brothers is the nearest dyno shop. (Vermont Sports Car doesn't really do public work, unfortunately)

4. Where do you live? If not a well known city, what is the elevation?
Burlington Vermont, not much over sea level.

5. What kind of gas will you be using? (octane level)
Always 93 octane

6. Are you opposed to a FMIC? (this way we dont recommend one if you dont want it, or we DO recommend it if you DO want it and it would be beneficial to your setup/goals) (sp?)
Not opposed, but probably not worth it yet.

A downpipe and a professional tune will put you WELL over 320-340 at the crank.
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:13 PM   #100
VT_Hatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiosavvy View Post
A downpipe and a professional tune will put you WELL over 320-340 at the crank.
All else being stock, would just a stage 1 tune yield me near that goal, or would I need that DP and tune to get it? There really are no tuners around this area =/

Last edited by VT_Hatch; 02-01-2010 at 04:29 PM.
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('93-'01) what do i need to do to try and get an autocross/Solo2 here...HELP! SuBaRu-ImPrEzA_RS Impreza Forum 2 06-03-2001 11:11 PM


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