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Old 12-07-2008, 09:22 PM   #26
beaviscih
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Rear end assembly dismantled today. The used RS Rear Diff needed some work. It looked like it came straight out of a cows butt it was so dirty. I took the cover plate off just to check things out - no issues. One of the axle seals looks like it needs to be replaced (see second to last picture). I manged to clean up the rear diff, but opted to use a spare rear cover plate and gasket vs. using the one that came with on the differential.







Make-shift parts storage...
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Old 12-08-2008, 01:19 AM   #27
Txoutlaw
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Wholly smokes you gotter skint back now! Looking good Bill. Cant wait to see this thing start going back together.
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Old 12-08-2008, 04:30 AM   #28
azn0boi04
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hmm.. i have a 95 impe. L and it came with front/rear disc brake... wow.. this brings back alot of memories on my swap... i had a blue rs hood on my Red body... but now i have a carbon hood on my red body...
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Old 12-08-2008, 06:15 AM   #29
jamesfacts
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I think you bought the brakes from my 04 WRX a ways back? Car looks good, and I'm impressed with the organisation/neatness of your workspace!
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Old 12-09-2008, 12:01 AM   #30
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azn0boi04 View Post
hmm.. i have a 95 impe. L and it came with front/rear disc brake... wow.. this brings back alot of memories on my swap... i had a blue rs hood on my Red body... but now i have a carbon hood on my red body...
It would have saved me some money if it had rear disks but no big deal. I picked up the JDM hood from JHot this summer knowing I was going to do the swap. The weight difference compared to the stocker hood is huge.
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Old 12-09-2008, 12:13 AM   #31
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by americanyouth View Post
I think you bought the brakes from my 04 WRX a ways back? Car looks good, and I'm impressed with the organisation/neatness of your workspace!
Yep, I bought your WRX rear brakes, hubs and axles. I still don't know whether I will use the WRX axles or stick with the JDM fronts and RS rears. The WRX are slightly longer, as long as I don't mix them I don't know if there is big difference. As for the work space, if I don't keep it picked up Ill start to misplace parts. I'm still looking for the JDM shift fork rod that I put somewhere.

Last edited by beaviscih; 12-09-2008 at 12:18 AM.
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Old 12-09-2008, 03:06 PM   #32
CatfaceType-R
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bad ass man, inspiring me
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Old 12-09-2008, 03:19 PM   #33
thad
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coming right along.
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Old 12-09-2008, 06:31 PM   #34
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thad View Post
coming right along.
Thanks. I have a number of parts on order, so I'm in a holding pattern until they arrive. I'm bringing the motor to EngineLogics (Houston) on Friday so Chris can change the timing belt, idler pulleys, water and oil pumps. I tried to make the best use of my time when making this trip, so we will finally tune the STi.
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Old 12-10-2008, 05:31 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaviscih View Post
Thanks. I have a number of parts on order, so I'm in a holding pattern until they arrive. I'm bringing the motor to EngineLogics (Houston) on Friday so Chris can change the timing belt, idler pulleys, water and oil pumps. I tried to make the best use of my time when making this trip, so we will finally tune the STi.
then its a race, i start my 20G swap on Friday too.
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Old 12-10-2008, 01:13 PM   #36
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thad View Post
then its a race, i start my 20G swap on Friday too.
My swap will slow down just a bit and be limited to weekends for the most part. I had the week off from work so I made a big dent. Following the advice of other folks I'm going back with stock parts and the ECU to make sure everything works before swapping injectors, FMIC and the Power FC.
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Old 12-10-2008, 03:17 PM   #37
thad
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not a bad idea, you'll know what kind of a a base you have to start with. I usually try to keep initial conversion simple and break them up into several smaller procedures to easy any trouble shooting that might be needed.
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Old 12-11-2008, 08:42 PM   #38
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I've made the tie-rod lock-nut mistake in the past too. I had to put it back together to get them apart. Those tie-rods look sweet. What kind of longevity are they supposed to offer. My OEM rods lasted for 140k, then I replaced them with super cheap chinese rods. They only lasted 20k, I swiftly replaced them with a new OEM set.
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Old 12-11-2008, 10:39 PM   #39
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Sunshine View Post
I've made the tie-rod lock-nut mistake in the past too. I had to put it back together to get them apart. Those tie-rods look sweet. What kind of longevity are they supposed to offer. My OEM rods lasted for 140k, then I replaced them with super cheap chinese rods. They only lasted 20k, I swiftly replaced them with a new OEM set.
I'm not sure how long they will last, but I'm sure it is a function of how hard I drive the car. The WL kit also includes ball joints which I have yet to put in the knuckles. The OEM tie rods looked good, but I was not going through the effort of dropping the front end and not replace both the tie rods and ball joints.
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Old 12-13-2008, 10:55 AM   #40
beaviscih
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Chris at Engine Logics blew through the timing belt, idlers, oil pump and water pump yesterday. He put on my STi oil pan, but I forgot to order the STi pick up tube so I had to get one from Subaru. Everything looked good and I probably could have got away without changing the parts, but knowing I've got new stuff on it helps. Now I can start getting the motor ready to stab.
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Old 12-14-2008, 08:30 PM   #41
beaviscih
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A little progress this weekend. Since the motor is ready for the top end stuff, I changed the fuel injectors (stocker 440s),plugs, two coil packs that were cracked and mounted the header/uppipe. I still need to remove the Subaru part number stickers from the pan, but everything bolted up. Looking at the engine bay and radiator, it may be a tight fit with the GTSpec Headers, but I'll figure out a way to make it work.

When I checked the gaps on the OEM plugs (Denso VK20), they were at 0.04. It took me an hour to find the cross reference for the NGK and I came up with BKR6EIX which were set at 0.028. Here are a few pictures from Saturday's work.



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Old 12-14-2008, 08:41 PM   #42
beaviscih
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I decided to use the '98L front hubs since the axles fit and they seem to be in good condition. I noticed one of the WRX hubs I bought seemed to be a little loose (push/pull test for bearings) and the fact that the ball joints did not want to come out.

The ball joints on the '98L hubs came out easily. They were a little rusted, but nothing a little B12 and a Dremel couldn't handle. I got the Whiteline ball joints installed, but I need the STi tapered alloy inserts so they will fit the aluminum control arms. I decided to stab the front cross member and install my stainless brake lines and hang the front struts just to clear some room in the garage. I'll torque everything once I get the tapered ball joint sleeves from Subaru. Here are a few photos of today's work.











STi tranny support:
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Old 12-23-2008, 12:08 AM   #43
fastcb
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Where are you getting all your JDM parts?

This is an awesome build!

Cory
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Old 12-23-2008, 10:23 PM   #44
chudlo
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Damn Bill! You have been busy. Looking good.

Are those the heads that I sold you? Did you wind up porting them?
Does this mean you are bringing 2 cars to the Mile?

Your wife must have a heart of gold. My engine swap almost got me divorced.
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Old 12-24-2008, 04:17 AM   #45
tony_0227
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looking good thinking of doing the same thing to my 93 not shure yet
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Old 12-24-2008, 11:02 AM   #46
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastcb View Post
Where are you getting all your JDM parts?

This is an awesome build!

Cory
Most have come from JHot or eBay. I orderd the APEXi CAI from Nugen Performance in Japan and the Power FC/Datalogit from RX7 Performance in Dallas. I've picked up a few parts here on NASIOC and the rest have come from USDM parted out Subarus or thru Annapolis Subaru.

Last edited by beaviscih; 12-24-2008 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 12-26-2008, 07:26 PM   #47
beaviscih
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Back from the holidays (and flu) and worked on the harness, pedals and brake booster. I decided to stay with the 'L' brake booster for simplicity, not to mention none of the swap threads/how to's said swapping the boosters was required.

The WRX pedals are in, but holy crap they kicked my ass. Probably shouldn't have, but it took me several hours to get the contraption in place and bolted up. I received my merged harness back from Zephyr and it looked great! Having the colored zip ties in place helped speed things along. The harness is installed as well as the A/C unit and dash beam.

Here are some pictures

WRX Pedals Installed:


Merged harness:


'L' Brake Booster and WRX Clutch Master Cylinder:


Merged Harness and A/C Installed:


Dash Beam & Fuse Block:


Merged Harness Thru Firewall:

Last edited by beaviscih; 12-28-2008 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 12-26-2008, 10:35 PM   #48
minhha2006
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subscribed!
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Old 12-27-2008, 06:48 AM   #49
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chudlo View Post
Damn Bill! You have been busy. Looking good.

Are those the heads that I sold you? Did you wind up porting them?
Does this mean you are bringing 2 cars to the Mile?

Your wife must have a heart of gold. My engine swap almost got me divorced.
I don't plan on running this car at the Texas Mile (it would be entirely too slow). I'm really doing it just to see if I can, and the fact I like the body style and the lowly 2.2L just didn't have enought umph. While my wife doesn't like the car stuff, she puts up with it.
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Old 12-28-2008, 06:58 PM   #50
beaviscih
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After three attempts, I got the dash back in. It wasn't that hard, I just kept making mental mistakes and had to start over several times. I bought the gauge pod off eBay, but I don't like the looks, so I'm going to find something different. I have not wired the gauges in, but will do so before putting the lower dash back in.

While I have more more work to do on the interior, I was ready for something different, so I started assembling the rear cross member. I picked up another '01 RS rear diff pretty cheap and in much better condition that the previous one, with about 100k less miles on it! I'm using mostly Whiteline suspension parts and so far I've been very disappointed. Each kit has been missing one or more bolts/washers, instructions, etc. I'm convinced their quality control process sucks.

The boys at Turn-In-Concepts hooked me up with a Klunk Killer kit and once I get my gear oil and rear differential gasket, I should be ready to complete the rear end and get it stabbed.

Dash Installed:


Rear Cross Member / End Links / WRX Sway bar:



STi Rear Sway Bar Supports ('L' Support on the left):

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