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Old 12-29-2008, 02:23 PM   #51
sti-zy wagon
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very nice build. can't wait to see more progress
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Old 12-29-2008, 08:34 PM   #52
beaviscih
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While I listed a few of the swap parts in the OP, I have listed a more comprehensive list below. Obviously some of the parts are not on the car and I haven't taken it to be repainted, but this is pretty much it. I put this list together simply to remember what the hell I put on the car. This is the biggest lego kit I've every played with.

JDM EJ20G Project – Master Swap List

Engine / Transmission / Drive Line:

• 1996 GF EJ20G motor • Forge Motorsports BOV
• 1996 GF 4.11 final drive 5MT • ’04 STi turbo coolant reservoir
• TD05H turbo with 90 degree inlet • DW 650cc side feed injectors
• FXT TMIC • Carl Davey side feed injector adapters
• Apexi CAI •
• ’98 L power steering pump • ’02 WRX coil packs and clips
• ’98 L A/C compressor • Grimm Speed BOV block off plate
• ’98 L alternator • STi motor mounts
• ’98 Legacy timing belt • ’98 Legacy idler pulleys
• ’02 WRX water pump • ’02 WRX oil pump
• ’04 STi oil pan and pickup tube • Harness merger by Zephyr
• GT Spec headers and up pipe • TXS 4” to 3” bellmouth TBE w/ race pipe
• Blitz NUR 80mm axle back • Apexi Power FC with Datalogit
• Innovate LC-1 wideband 02 gauge • Prosport OP, FP, oil temp and boost gauges
• ’02 WRX driveshaft • Kartboy Short Shifter
• ’98 L shifter linkage • Kartboy shifter bushings
• ’01 RS2.5 4.11 LSD rear differential • ’96 EJ20G front axles
• ’04 WRX rear axles • Koyo R1819 Radiator
• ’02 WRX clutch master cylinder & lines • 5MT Subaru STi clutch

Suspension / Brakes / Chassis:

• JDM aluminum control arms • ’04 STi tie rod alloy ball joint inserts
• Whiteline tie rods and ball joints • KYB/AGX struts
• Swift Sport springs • Group N front top hats
• Goodridge SS brake lines & speed bleeders • Hawk Performance brake pads
• ’04 STi front cross member • ’98 L rack and pinion steering
• ’03 WRX wagon front sway bar • Whiteline WRX wagon front end links
• ’98 L front hubs/knuckles • ’02 WRX front brakes
• ’04 WRX rear brakes • ’02 WRX rear sway bar
• ’03 WRX rear cross member • ’06 WRX wagon rear differential housing
• TiC Klunk Killer - comfort • ’02 WRX lateral links
• Whiteline WRX rear end links • STi rear sway bar support brackets
• Front camber bolts • TiC rear outrigger bushings
• JDM clear tail lights • Ver 4 JDM aluminum hood
• Ver 3 JDM seats • RS 2.5 black carpet
• ’03 WRX brake, clutch, accelerator pedals • Refreshed OEM Brilliant Red paint
• ’01 RS2.5 sedan trunk lid • JDM GC8 rear spoiler
• Paranoid Performance saggy butt spacers • RS2.5 Goldie wheels / BFG 215/50/16

Last edited by beaviscih; 01-07-2009 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 12-29-2008, 09:29 PM   #53
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dumb question what is the upside of having a wrx brake, clutch, accelerator pedals i have a 93 just asking thinking of doing a trans swap later
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Old 12-29-2008, 10:30 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony_0227 View Post
dumb question what is the upside of having a wrx brake, clutch, accelerator pedals i have a 93 just asking thinking of doing a trans swap later
The JDM 5MT is hydraulic so I needed to switch from a cable to hydraulic clutch. The easiest way to do this that I could find was to swap in a WRX pedal assembly. There should be a grommet in the fire wall pre-drilled for the clutch master cylinder (at least there was on my '98L) which bolts up to the WRX pedal set.
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Old 12-30-2008, 09:24 AM   #55
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same holes in a 93 shell too.
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:41 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaviscih View Post
The JDM 5MT is hydraulic so I needed to switch from a cable to hydraulic clutch. The easiest way to do this that I could find was to swap in a WRX pedal assembly. There should be a grommet in the fire wall pre-drilled for the clutch master cylinder (at least there was on my '98L) which bolts up to the WRX pedal set.
cool i am going to do the same thing my trans is starting to take a dump how much and where could i get the pedal set thanks
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Old 12-30-2008, 11:21 PM   #57
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony_0227 View Post
cool i am going to do the same thing my trans is starting to take a dump how much and where could i get the pedal set thanks
I've got a spare of the clutch and brake assembly, but it does not have the WRX pedal covers. You can use your OEM accelerator pedal and put a cover on it to match. You will use your sensors from your pedal set and swap them to the WRX/STi clutch / brake assembly. Quite frankly it may be easier to find a complete set on eBay or in the NASIOC classifieds or Part-Out forum then to hassle with what I've got.
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Old 12-30-2008, 11:48 PM   #58
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i found a set of WRX pedals for a decent price at subarugenuineparts.com the other day.

$49.50 for the set. fits years 1998+

Last edited by crisco555; 12-31-2008 at 12:08 AM.
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:11 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crisco555 View Post
i found a set of WRX pedals for a decent price at subarugenuineparts.com the other day.

$49.50 for the set. fits years 1998+
do u happen to have a part number i cant seem to find it thanks for the help
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Old 12-31-2008, 01:06 AM   #60
Blackaxela
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very nice, must be nice having very little to no rust to deal with.
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Old 12-31-2008, 06:10 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crisco555 View Post
i found a set of WRX pedals for a decent price at subarugenuineparts.com the other day.

$49.50 for the set. fits years 1998+
Chances are these are the pedal covers ONLY. In this discussion they are talking about the pedal assembly aka Pedal Box.
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Old 12-31-2008, 06:25 PM   #62
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zephyr View Post
Chances are these are the pedal covers ONLY. In this discussion they are talking about the pedal assembly aka Pedal Box.
Correct. OEM pedal covers will run you about $50. You can use stocker rubber covers if you don't want to spend the money on the fancy stuff.
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Old 12-31-2008, 08:03 PM   #63
beaviscih
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Ok swappers, I need some help. The JDM rear exhaust sensor looks more like an EGT than an O2 sensor. The harness is wired for this, but I'm not using the JDM DP, so any suggestions on the how to deal with this?



Second question(s). In the picture below I need some help verifying / identifying these clips. From the 1:00 position clockwise, if I'm correct, the first is for the MAF, the second cylindrical shaped clip is for the rear exhaust sensor discussed above, the next two I'm clueless and the last (11:00 position) I think is for the front O2 sensor. Any idea what the two are with the orange clip face?

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Old 12-31-2008, 08:17 PM   #64
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i believe those are for the igniter.
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Old 12-31-2008, 10:33 PM   #65
beaviscih
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Duh, the one in the 7 o'clock position goes to the boost controller housing (on the fender well). The other one I'm not sure of. Igniter? Coil on plugs so I don't think that's it, but thanks for the input.

On a separate note, I picked this up tonight. It wasn't part of the project list, but it was in good condition and will add to the Hinz57 mystique. Happy new year to me.


Last edited by beaviscih; 12-31-2008 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 01-02-2009, 03:15 PM   #66
suberdave
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[quote=beaviscih;25017888] Igniter? Coil on plugs so I don't think that's it, but thanks for the input.
[quote]

they are for the igniter. the EJ20G dose have coil on plug but they have an exturnal igniter. unlike the USDM WRX's and STI's but they have 3 wires whereas the G has only 2.

read on the Coil conversion page and it has more info on this...

those plugs are clockwise: Maf, EGT, Igniter out, Igniter in, O2 sensor.

-=Suberdave=-
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Old 01-02-2009, 06:50 PM   #67
beaviscih
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^ Thanks. And to efeight - I stand corrected - I just proved I was a n00b at this swapping business.
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Old 01-04-2009, 08:36 PM   #68
beaviscih
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Since I'm still waiting on my parts from Subaru I forced myself to start wiring up the gauges and get the A/C control unit re-installed. I'll be using Prosport Premium gauges which are not as nice as the Defi's I'm running on the STi, but seem to be ok. All the soldering is done and I'll be using the stereo 12V supply, accessory and illumination for the gauges. I ran all the sensors through the firewall under the clutch pedal and stubbed out my LC-1 wires, but have not decided where to get power for this unit.

I read the LC-1 installation manual and watched the video, but I still have a few questions. Since I'll eventually be running the analog I/O to the Datalogit unit, I need to find a power supply close to the ECU/PowerFC and I don't want to put them on the stereo 12V supply as this is listed by Innovate as a non desirable power source. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Anyway, here are a few boring pictures of my wiring hack job.



Radio Wiring that I'll use for power, ground and lighting.




Wires/Sensors thru Firewall Behind Clutch Pedal


Innovate LC-1 Wiring


Sensors Put Out of the Way Until Motor Goes In


As for the rear EGT, if I'm not mistaken the probe threads are BSPT. I found a 1/8 NPT to BSPT, but I need the female to be BSPT not NPT. Does anyone know if I can buy a two wire EGT sensor (Autometer, Prosport, etc.) and splice into the JDM wires? I'd rather not do this, but I have not been able to find a BSPT bung to have welded to my exhaust.
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Old 01-09-2009, 10:51 PM   #69
beaviscih
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I finally got my parts in today. I was waiting on a RS rear diff gasket and some gear oil and assorted nuts and bolts. I also got the front A-Arm alloy inserts for the ball joints. I managed to pull the front bumper skin and USDM bumper beam. Obvious weight difference between the USDM and JDM beams.

Alloy inserts for front A-Arms:



I decided to assemble the rear end and use two jacks to install the whole unit. An extra pair of hands would have been nice, but I managed to get it stabbed in about an hour. I still need to run the e-brake cables back to the cab and bolt up the trailing arms. I'll also install Karboy bushings on the differential support, torque it down and I'm pretty close to finishing up the rear end. I did screw up by installing one of the lateral links backwards. I finally realized my screw-up when the lateral link bolt (the big bastard) would fit thru the lateral link opening.

Bumper Beams:


USDM Bumper Skin Removed / JDM Bumper Skin:



I found it pretty easy to re-install the rear axles by standing the assembly upright vs. trying to stab them while lying on my back. I installed the axles into the hubs and hand tightened the axles nuts so I could bold up the trailing arms. I also installed TiC klunk killer comfort bushings (grey bushings).

Paranoid Performance 3/8" Saggy Butt Spacers:





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Old 01-09-2009, 10:59 PM   #70
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Coming right along.


Quote:
Originally Posted by beaviscih View Post
An extra pair of hands would have been nice, but I managed to get it stabbed in about an hour.
Whiskey, Tango, Foxtrot, over....All you had to do was ask. I'm just a phone call away.

By the way, do you think they make any of those spacers for people?
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Old 01-09-2009, 11:32 PM   #71
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Txoutlaw View Post
Whiskey, Tango, Foxtrot, over....All you had to do was ask. I'm just a phone call away.

By the way, do you think they make any of those spacers for people?
It was getting late and I was in a zone so didn't bother calling. I'm glad I have three floor jacks because I needed all of them to get the main cross member bolts stabbed. Getting the cross member lined up with the bolt holes was a major pita. I'm just glad I have pneumatic tools or it really would have sucked.

If you're up around 2AM and channel surf a little you will probably run across an infomercial that sells a product to cure even the worst case of saggy butt syndrome. I believe they call it a hydraulic ass winch.

On a separate note, I'm going to see if I can plumb FXT IC tomorrow, the key is figuring out where to splice in my BOV. If that doesn't work I'm leaning to the to the air to liquid IC vs. FMIC . Even with the eBay FMIC that supposedly is a straight bolt up, I'll end up hacking up the bumper skin and probably lose the fog lights. More than likely I'll order the IC and heat exchanger this weekend. If I can fab the plumbing to the turbo and the heat exchanger will fit with a few modifications, I'll order the rest of the parts for the installation. I got my Ford Mustang Cobra degassing tank in today and it should fit on the passenger of the engine bay.

Last edited by beaviscih; 01-09-2009 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 01-10-2009, 09:06 PM   #72
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I have a 98 2.5RS, basically identical to your car, and I've been wanting to do a swap similar to yours. But, um ,stupid question (since I am new to the whole engine swap idea too, and subaru mostly for that matter) what is the purpose of going with a jdm ej20g instead of going with a usdm wrx ej205?
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Old 01-10-2009, 09:30 PM   #73
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc_RSti View Post
I have a 98 2.5RS, basically identical to your car, and I've been wanting to do a swap similar to yours. But, um ,stupid question (since I am new to the whole engine swap idea too, and subaru mostly for that matter) what is the purpose of going with a jdm ej20g instead of going with a usdm wrx ej205?
Some good information here...http://swapstarproductions.blogspot....-whatnots.html

Personally, my '04 2.5L was down on compression. A rebuild of the bottom end would have cost as much or more than the EJ20G I picked up (because I would have upgraded the pistons, bearings,...). For a few more dollars I got a transmission that should be better than the '02 USDM WRX I had in my garage (I was not going to spend the money to swap in an STi 6MT, brakes, hubs, etc.). And lastly I just wanted to do it. There are numerous threads that talk about the pros and cons of USDM vs. JDM swaps and it's something you just need to research and decide what's best for you.
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Old 01-10-2009, 10:28 PM   #74
sc_RSti
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hmm cool. sorry another dumb question but why'd you go with the ej20 instead of the ej25? I mean you did say that you just wanted to get a little more UMPH outta your "L". But wouldn't you want to go with the bigger displacement to get whatever hp you wanted more easily?
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Old 01-10-2009, 10:39 PM   #75
sc_RSti
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wait a second...are ALL ej20 parts compatible/interchangeable with other ej20 blocks? i.e. ej20g block/ej207 heads? And just freinkenstien the crap out of it?
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