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Old 04-25-2009, 08:59 PM   #201
beaviscih
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Well I worked on it most of the day to no avail. The car cranks and will cough after letting it sit, but she won't run. Coils are are fireing, but I think there is an issue with the fueling. While I have good FP, I can't tell if I'm dumping too much or not enough fuel. In the process I somehow managed to fry my WB sensor. I'm pretty sure I grounded a wire while trying to setup the LC-1 parameters. I'm pretty sure I grounded one of the wires to the sensor because I'm getting a short circuit / bad sensor error on the LC-1 gauge. I'm running the DW650 injectors and I'm a little confused on the injector dead time values so I need to double check my notes and numbers.
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Old 04-26-2009, 07:40 PM   #202
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Found the vacuum line to the boost solenoid was disconnected. While that wouldn't prevent the car from starting, it prompted me to check all my vacuum lines, electrical clips and make sure the MAF was secure. I pulled the fuel return line just to make sure the fuel lines weren't plugged. I tried a different O2 sensor, no difference. I'm showing a trigger error during cranking as well as a voltage issue with the front O2 sensor. In the Link EM system you can adjust the master fuel setting (ms) which changes the fuel values in the main table. Typically this is adjusted after the car is running to optimize idle. I tried adjusting this, but it didn't make a difference. I tried to adjust the injector dead times (thinking the values were wrong), but this didn't help. With input from TXOutlaw, we are thinking that the timing is off and while this is a plug-and-play ECU, if the ECU doesn't know where TDC is, then it's not going to start. I've posted questions on Link's Forum so hopefully I'll get some assistance from the guys in NZ.
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:21 PM   #203
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Wow, long project. What exhaust is that?
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Old 04-28-2009, 09:02 PM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimbei1950 View Post
Wow, long project. What exhaust is that?
Actually I had the car finished in less than 4 months and waited over a month for the EM system. I figured 6-12 months for the swap and I'm right on schedule.

The exhaust is a TXS from the turbo to the rear axle and a Skunk 2 axle back. Full 3" catless setup.
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Old 05-05-2009, 09:36 PM   #205
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Still hasn't started, but I've only messed with it a few times since I last posted. First off, no need to do a trigger calibration since it is preset for the Ver1-6. The Link install manual is obviously not intended for people with limited tuning abilities, like me (of course it doesn't help when they cut off their sentences mid-stream in the manual).

I thought I had a bad WB sensor, but it turns out I just didn't follow the instructions getting the LC-1 and XD-16 to talk to each other (RTFM). Once I got that crap straight. I disconnected the front O2 sensor and am using one of the analog outputs from the Innovate LC-1 tapped into pin 76 (replacing the NB sensor). Made a few adjustments in the G4 software under the analog inputs and pulled a few datalogs during cranking...rich. Hopefully leaning it out will get it to fire off. AFRs during cranking are between 7.5 and 8.5 @ 11-12 volts. I road the short yellow bus to tuning school so this is taking me some time to figure out. Of course it will go a real tuner once I get it running.

Last edited by beaviscih; 05-05-2009 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:28 AM   #206
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hmm, that doesn't seem that rich to me, but I have never done any tuning myself.
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Old 05-06-2009, 01:14 PM   #207
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no, thats pretty rich. anxious to see how it goes. the wife still putting up with it nicely??
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:07 PM   #208
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no, thats pretty rich. anxious to see how it goes. the wife still putting up with it nicely??
Yea she's a good egg, I just have to moderate my time in the garage. She knows I could have worse hobbies...like running the bars and ho's that hang out there.
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Old 05-07-2009, 09:32 AM   #209
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Yea she's a good egg, I just have to moderate my time in the garage. She knows I could have worse hobbies...like running the bars and ho's that hang out there.
LOL true, and both are equally expensive
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Old 05-07-2009, 10:29 PM   #210
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Frustration is setting in and I'm not sure what to do next. I pulled the plugs tonight and through in a set of stock heat range plugs...no go. The 1 step colder plugs didn't look fouled or wet with fuel although they smelled like gas. I have no idea why it won't start.
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Old 05-10-2009, 11:36 AM   #211
beaviscih
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I pulled the DW650s and threw in the stocker 440ccs, loaded the Link base map and it fired off and ran for about 5 seconds then died. AFRs were on the lean side so I need to add more fuel. I don't know why I couldn't get the DW's to work so I'm going to send them in for cleaning and flowtesting. I ran out of time yesterday, but for now I'm going to play with the master fuel adjustment and see I can keep it running.
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Old 05-10-2009, 01:30 PM   #212
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not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet...

fuel timing.

stroke 1: suck (intake)

stroke 2: squeeze (compression)

stroke 3: bang (ignition)

stroke 4: blow (exhaust)

if your fuel timing is off 180 degrees, then it will still wet your plugs, you'll still get crank, but she wont run... your engine would be pulling in air and fuel during the ignition stroke, and pushing out the fresh air fuel mixture during the exhaust stroke. and trying to fire during the intake stroke. just a guess. 4stroke engine dynamics might be easy to overlook

when an engine is timed, cylinder 1 is taken to top dead center. you have to be careful that its TDC on the intake stroke.



i hope this is helpful

Last edited by ruckus racing; 05-10-2009 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 05-10-2009, 08:20 PM   #213
beaviscih
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Thanks for the input. Timing has been a big question for me, but I've been assured that calibration of the triggers isn't necessary with the G4 EJ20G Plug-in since it is preset. While the idler pulleys, oil pump, water pump and timing belt were changed, I have no reason to suspect an issue here (done by the guy that built my '04 STi motor). The cylinder firing order in Link shows 1/3/2/4. It's gotta be something simple, but I just haven't been able to figure it out.
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Old 05-14-2009, 11:15 AM   #214
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Have u called performance development in cali, the owner is the main importer of links in the us he's from new zealand knows his ****
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Old 05-14-2009, 01:20 PM   #215
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Do you not have a stock ECU to toss in?
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Old 05-14-2009, 08:58 PM   #216
beaviscih
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregBolby View Post
Have u called performance development in cali, the owner is the main importer of links in the us he's from new zealand knows his ****
I haven't spoken with Neil @ Performance Development but Miles @ FLI is giving me a hand (I bought the Link from him). I haven't worked on the car this week due to business travel so Ill try some things this weekend. I'm going to send the DWs in for cleaning and to verify what I've got. Mike at DW said they look like a set of their older sidefeeds. Personally they look like Nismos (red top) and I'm thinking they might be 720 or 740s and not 650s.
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Old 05-15-2009, 07:20 PM   #217
beaviscih
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News It Runs

All that work and it boiled down to having the damn fuel lines reversed. I should have suspected this by my fuel pressure gauge (which would spike to 60psi when the pump was primed, then drop fairly quickly there after).

I started it up on the stock ECU and I let it run while I topped off the coolant and power steering fluid. After letting it warm up, I swapped in the Link G4 and it fired up, adjusted the master fueling and it idles a little high, but very smooth. I did a slow drive around the block to make sure the rest of the swapped parts worked (like the trans and brakes), and I need to bleed my rear brakes. I have some video of both the stock ECU and Link G4 posted below.


Last edited by beaviscih; 05-15-2009 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 05-18-2009, 01:50 PM   #218
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yaaaaa she is alive. sounds good bro. very nice work
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Old 05-18-2009, 11:57 PM   #219
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It looks sweet
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Old 05-23-2009, 06:54 PM   #220
beaviscih
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Spent most of today trying to resolve my rear brake issue and believe that problem is resolved. We tried to charge the A/C system but the blower / fan won't kick on. The compressor works fine, but I need to figure out why the blower isn't coming on.

I sent the DW 650s in for cleaning and they should be back next week (I bought them used and didn't have them cleaned so I went ahead and got it done). I used the Carl Davey adapter kit, but the allen head bolts are a PITA to work with so I picked up some M5x20mm hex head bolts and will use those when the 650s go back in. I have an FMIC sitting in my garage and will try to get that in next weekend and put in the 650s as well. The Ver1/2 WRX TMIC and AVO hard pipe will go up for sale as well as the Ver1/2 STi TMIC that I won't need.
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Old 05-26-2009, 05:27 PM   #221
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congrats!!!!!!
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Old 05-26-2009, 08:35 PM   #222
beaviscih
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congrats!!!!!!
Thanks. There have been some frustrating moments, but they've been easy fixes and typical n00b swapper mistakes. Speaking of which, my A/C blower didn't work because I forgot to plug in the two prong clip under the blower. I didn't see it in the service manual for some stupid reason. Zephyr straightened me out and now I have A/C, which is a must in South Texas.

I got the injectors back from DW and the average flow is 647cc.
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Old 05-29-2009, 01:23 AM   #223
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Quote:
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All that work and it boiled down to having the damn fuel lines reversed.
I did this when I put my replacement EJ22 in... Happens to the best of us. Nice swap BTW.
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Old 05-29-2009, 10:31 PM   #224
beaviscih
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I did this when I put my replacement EJ22 in... Happens to the best of us. Nice swap BTW.
At least it was an easy fix.

The eBay FMIC is a POS and I've got to cut some of the IC piping to make it work. At first glance it looks like I'll be able to keep my fog lights (which is why I bought the kit). I only paid $250 for the kit, but you get what you pay for. I need to order some additional piping and couplers this weekend so I can have it ready for my tuning scheduled for June 12.
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Old 06-01-2009, 12:29 PM   #225
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I'm not sure if you figured your brakes out yet. But in order to bleed them make sure the bleeder valves are facing up and the L on the calipers is on top on the left and the R on the calipers is on top on the right.
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