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Old 11-26-2008, 05:48 PM   #1
Qubert
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Default Heater Problem

Ok, so heres the deal.
Took my car into a service centre to get this prob fixed. THey replaced the resistor (was not broken, know this now because I tested it) then told me that in order to fix the problem they woudl have to replace the whole wiring harness ($$$$$). I said no, and that I would fix it when I had time. The cold weather here is beginning to put some pressure on me to get this fixed.

I took apart the switch, resistor and blower motor, and re wired them. Nothing. This was all based on the assertion that the information that the dealership gave me was correct.

Took a lead from the battery, and ran it directly to the blower motor (bypass the relay) and now the motor runs, follows the switch and all is happy (not sure if I have heat yet, but hte fan works. so the problem is upstream of the blower motor somewhere, and now the fan doesnt turn off when the ignition is off, I have to turn the switch off or I will be facing a dead battery.

In my diagrams there is a relay listed before the blower motor. (Where is this physically located?)

Aside from the relay is there anything else that could be causing it?

Edit (there is no heat now either, just air being blown)
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Last edited by Qubert; 11-26-2008 at 05:50 PM. Reason: No heat
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Old 11-27-2008, 11:20 AM   #2
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Bump for crossposting Denial. :S
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Old 11-27-2008, 11:50 AM   #3
rick-l
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If you go to the section of the wiring diagram called Bulkhead Wiring Harness (In Compartment) it gives a map to where connector B50 (connects to relay) would be. In my car it looks like it would be under the dash by the drivers door.

I wonder why the dealer wouldn't have looked at this obvious fault?
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Old 11-27-2008, 12:51 PM   #4
Cougar4
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The blower relay is the top choice as being the problem with the blower. Like Rick-l, I too wonder why the dealer didn't look into that and needlessly replaced the resistors. I have to think it is due to a lack of proper electrical troubleshooting and just guessing at the problem. Some quick voltages checks should have cleared them as the source of trouble.

As far as the heat problem goes I would check to see if the control for the vent doors is working. I think they are controlled electrically. If these problems occured at the same time then they are related to each other most likely. There may be a power problem with the air control also. If you haven't checked the fuses under the hood then do that and see if one of them is blown. You may get lucky here and just need to replace a fuse.

In one of your other posts about this problem I think you asked about checking fuses with a voltmeter. You can do that a couple of ways. If you use the ohmmeter function of the meter you can just place the probes across the leads of the fuse and make sure there is continuity (very low resistance) between the ends of the fuse. When making resistance checks you need to make sure no power is applied to the device you are checking and it is best to remove the device from the circuit so you won't get a false reading due to something else in the circuit creating another circuit path.

To check the fuse with power applied use the voltmeter function and measure each side of the fuse using the slits on the top of the fuse and the meter reference probe tied to ground. You should see power on each side if the fuse is ok. If it is blown only one side will show power.

You can also place both meter probes across the fuse and check it that way. Since a fuse is basically a piece of wire a good fuse will have no voltage drop across it so the meter will read zero volts. A bad fuse will have all the the voltage across it since it is open.

Since it looks like you work on things yourself I highly recommend you get at least a CD service manual for the car. They are invaluable to have and you can get them on Ebay. Even better is the factory manuals and you can usually find them at a good discount there also.
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Old 11-27-2008, 12:51 PM   #5
Qubert
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honestly i think its cause the tech was terrible. He did not test the resistor, just charged for replacement, and then when it did not work, wanted to replace the entire wiring harness..... (I did not even ask how much that costs)

I have searched rather extensively for the relay in the diagram, but from the blower motor, the 2 wires lead into the main harness, and from there..... sigh.
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Old 11-27-2008, 12:54 PM   #6
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Not so lucky as that unfortunately, the fuses are all intact (First thing i checked, I have learnt that lesson the hard way too many times.)
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Old 11-27-2008, 12:56 PM   #7
Cougar4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qubert View Post
honestly i think its cause the tech was terrible. He did not test the resistor, just charged for replacement, and then when it did not work, wanted to replace the entire wiring harness..... (I did not even ask how much that costs)

I have searched rather extensively for the relay in the diagram, but from the blower motor, the 2 wires lead into the main harness, and from there..... sigh.
That is pretty scary, at least from the side of the one how has to pay the final bill. Check those fuses first.
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Old 11-27-2008, 12:59 PM   #8
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Oops. You are too fast for me, I now see you have checked the fuses. Did the problem for both these things happen at the same time?
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Old 11-27-2008, 01:14 PM   #9
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yes as far as I know. I was kind of unaware of the heat issues, as it was summer, but there was and is no passive heat either. You know how even without the blower motor on there is heat that comes through the system if it is on.

There must be some kind of system regulating the heater core, as the system for vent control is not electronic, its cable driven.

Some diagrams I have mention a HVAC controller, some the relay. I dont understand what mechanisms that the vehicle has to shut off the heater core tho, I thought that was kinda always on.... (Newbie i guess)

Thanks for the replies tho cougar
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Old 11-27-2008, 01:24 PM   #10
Cougar4
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You are welcome for the help.

Since both problems appear to have happened at the same time I would say they both are related electrically and proper diagnosis will prove it out if that is so. Lets get this out first, I assume this problem is with a '03 WRX non STi.
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Old 11-27-2008, 01:28 PM   #11
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That is correct. It is modified, however the only potentially relevant thing is the alarm, as it is hooked up in that vicinity (~2 years ago and no direct interference I can Imagine) I should also mention that some time ago the same lamo dealership replaced the fan switch as it was broken (fixed the problem until now)
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Old 11-27-2008, 01:35 PM   #12
Cougar4
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Ok, good info there.

I have some service data for an '02 around here that should apply to your model also. I will check that out. I also need to get some things going in the kitchen for dinner tonight. I will get back to you on this later today hopefully. Fair enough? Oh, and Happy Thanksgiving to you.
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Old 11-27-2008, 01:57 PM   #13
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One quick thing. You stated that you have no heat and just air. Can you control the air movement, like to the defroster and upper and lower vents?
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Old 11-27-2008, 02:58 PM   #14
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Yes I can. The only reason that the blower works si that I wired it directly to the battery. This would not normally be the case, there would be no air and no heat without my .... intervention.
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Old 11-27-2008, 03:07 PM   #15
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Is it possible that the Heater core is turned off? Is this somethign that can occur, or is it just jammed?

It is possible that teh moron who did this work in the first place wrecked the cables when removing the HVAC Control. Perhaps I should take off the blower chamber and investigate what goes on in there.

When I got the car back I did notice some unusually high resistance on the hot-> cold dial.

I will crack it open tonight.
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Old 11-27-2008, 03:09 PM   #16
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Ok, the blower motor is working, but I was really wanting to know if the you can control the vents where the air comes out. Are they working?
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Old 11-27-2008, 03:25 PM   #17
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yes, defrost, feet, panel. All work
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Old 11-27-2008, 03:50 PM   #18
Cougar4
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Good deal. So it is just the control for where the air comes from we have to deal with. I think that is controlled electrically. There may be a controller on the side of the air box under the hood for that. I'm not real sure yet.
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Old 11-27-2008, 03:56 PM   #19
Qubert
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It is a cable. Not electronic. That is what I will be checking this evening, it moves a flap open and shut to push air throught hte condenser or heater core.
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Old 11-27-2008, 06:04 PM   #20
Cougar4
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That sounds like the right thing to check alright. If the AC air flows ok then maybe the door is stuck on that side.
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Old 11-27-2008, 06:38 PM   #21
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Meanwhile; getting back to the blower situation. When the tech team on your end can get to it, look for the blower relay tucked way up in the left corner under the dash area. There should be a couple of relays up there. Look for a red socket that is for the ABS system. The white(?) socket above it should be for the blower. You may be able to swap those relays to check it out easily.
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Old 11-28-2008, 05:29 PM   #22
Qubert
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Got it fixed. When the tech put the stereo back in, he knocked the cable off of its attachment site, so the problem was really the wire between the relay (Which I have now replaced) and the detached cable. I could not understand why the two problems would be related, but as it turns out it was just a coincidence that they happened at the same time.

I'm all sorted in any case, and wont be freezing any longer.

Thanks for the help Cougar.
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Old 11-28-2008, 10:25 PM   #23
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Good deal. You're welcome for the help and thanks for the feedback.
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