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Old 12-12-2008, 05:21 PM   #51
Coati
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Originally Posted by z&cobb View Post

The next oil change will be with Penzoil Platinum, and the one after that with Valvoline.

I'll report back if one of those finally ruins my engine or turbo (currently 150,000 miles).:
For people like us, maybe it will upset the engines' delicate balance.
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Old 12-12-2008, 06:15 PM   #52
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i was considering going to Rotella-T 5W-40 on my next change. i blew up my first motor on M1 5-30. after a brand new block and two oil changes on RP, about 7000 miles, i was wondering if the 5-40 rotella would be a good choice. ive read over and over on here and the bob is the oil guy site trying to research the oil. so again, how many people have been running Rotella-T 5W-40 and have success with it? i really dont want to risk blowing this car up again. i dont track it or race it its just a daily driver.
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Old 12-12-2008, 06:21 PM   #53
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mobile 1 synthetic is like italian olive oil..it sux
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Old 12-14-2008, 05:17 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z&cobb View Post
Perhaps Valvoline increased the Zinc antiwear additive to the old formulation level of Mobil 1, or increased it over that level.
The levels have not changed to the "old formulation level of "Mobil1", which would be ILSAC GF-3. The levels are the same as current GF-4 specs. Some are speculating that Synpower may already meet some of the GF-5 specs.
Quote:
Turbocharger Protection
Use of the TEOST 33C deposit bench test is being considered in GF-5 to evaluate Turbocharger Protection.

During this test, problems were observed with oxidative degradation/thermal coking of engine oil in the turbocharger bearing area during hot shut-down. It is necessary to protect the bearing from deposits because deposit build-up in the turbocharger bearing area can lead to loss of engine performance and possibly engine failure.

Turbocharger Protection is important, but there are tradeoffs when it comes to Fuel Economy. The detergent and dispersant components that go the metal surfaces to keep the engine's parts clean and prevent deposit build-up in the turbocharger, compete against the friction modifier components that go to the metal surfaces to reduce friction and improve fuel economy.
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Originally Posted by z&cobb View Post
Mobil 1 is kinda in the thread title. But I guess oil made in Germany is what all US drivers should use. German technology FTW.
It's probably the best 30 grade that you're going to find "off the shelf" so why not use it? It's not necessarily that it's "German technology" but it's an oil that meets European ACEA A3 requirements for shear stability.

-Dennis
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Old 12-14-2008, 06:52 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxpunk View Post
mobile 1 synthetic is like italian olive oil..it sux


Italian oilve oil is quite good, in fact....depending on brand and quality used.

JUST LIKE motor oil.

Your analogy if fraught with error.
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Old 12-18-2008, 04:27 PM   #56
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I think there is a reference to the imitation olive oil from NY/NJ being sold in CT in that post.

On 10k miles wish Amsoil ASL 5w30... 5k more to go!
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Old 12-18-2008, 07:49 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subarurabbit View Post
I think there is a reference to the imitation olive oil from NY/NJ being sold in CT in that post.

On 10k miles wish Amsoil ASL 5w30... 5k more to go!
yoar not one of those guys that thinks running oil for 15k miles is a good thing are you????


'cuz it isnt and thats just plain nuts
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Old 12-18-2008, 09:13 PM   #58
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^serious.....

ill go max 4k on my gc 0w-30 on how spirited i drive, including stop and go, car getting turned on and off......and etc. etc.
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Old 12-18-2008, 09:33 PM   #59
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The best oils are usually found in convenience stores. They are usually marked API "SA". We all know an "A" is the best grade.
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Old 12-19-2008, 08:55 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by mikeythejew View Post
The best oils are usually found in convenience stores. They are usually marked API "SA". We all know an "A" is the best grade.
Written with sarcasm, I'm sure
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Old 12-19-2008, 09:42 PM   #61
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http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics

Hopefully this will help, although long, it's definitely worth the read.

The conclusions I reached after having read the article are as follows:
Run a 10w (or possibly a 5w) oil as today's 0w oils don't resist shearing well. If it wasn't for the viscosity shearing affect of today’s oil, 0w would be the best. Unfortunately, a good 0W oil is not yet available.
Motul 300V or Redline are best because they are ester based oils and thus resist viscosity shear much better than Mobil 1 does. I'm not positive but I think I recall hearing that Royal Purple is ester based as well.

I would personally not run anything over a 10w35 oil in a suby, although admittedly I'm not sure about information regarding normal operating temperature for your cars, but I believe they don't run too hot (unless racing conditions are present).

Bottom line: I would run full synth. I would not run M1. I would run an ester based oil.
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Old 12-20-2008, 12:03 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rom3BreaK View Post
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics

Hopefully this will help, although long, it's definitely worth the read.

The conclusions I reached after having read the article are as follows:
Run a 10w (or possibly a 5w) oil as today's 0w oils don't resist shearing well. If it wasn't for the viscosity shearing affect of today’s oil, 0w would be the best. Unfortunately, a good 0W oil is not yet available.
Motul 300V or Redline are best because they are ester based oils and thus resist viscosity shear much better than Mobil 1 does. I'm not positive but I think I recall hearing that Royal Purple is ester based as well.

I would personally not run anything over a 10w35 oil in a suby, although admittedly I'm not sure about information regarding normal operating temperature for your cars, but I believe they don't run too hot (unless racing conditions are present).

Bottom line: I would run full synth. I would not run M1. I would run an ester based oil.
some of that is out of date and anything with a turbo is harder on oil that those without and ive never seen any 10w35 and I(and others) could go on and on and on
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Old 12-21-2008, 10:50 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rom3BreaK View Post
[url]... Unfortunately, a good 0W oil is not yet available.
I beg to differ, Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (a.k.a., "German Castrol" or simply "GC") has proven to be a very stout motor oil that is very resistant to shearing.
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Old 12-21-2008, 03:27 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by AndyH View Post
I beg to differ, Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (a.k.a., "German Castrol" or simply "GC") has proven to be a very stout motor oil that is very resistant to shearing.
Agreed. And I'm having very good results with Amsoil SSO 0w-30. It stayed in grade after 8,000 miles of a brand new turbo, towing, sprited driving, several days of 100+F temps and off-roading.

Another thing about that article, Dr. Haas is a surgeon and car enthusiast. He is not a tribologist. He does use 20 grades in his exotics , but he does not use girly-man thin oils like Mobil1. Only Red Line or Renewable Lubricants Inc. Red Line 5W-20 would resist shearing better than most (if not all) Energy Conserving xw-30's like Mobil1 because of it's high HTHS.

-Dennis
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:14 PM   #65
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I commonly read that Rotella 5w40 is recommended, any thoughts on the 15w40 variety for those of us that live in mild climates (say greater than 30 F temps)? I've actually read some threads at BITOG suggesting the 15w40 is more shear stable than the 5w40, for example here... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...ue#Post1220861

So despite 5w40 being synthetic and 15w40 plain dino, if the 15w40 is more shear stable wouldn't it be a better candidate for mild climate or summer use?...and also extended change intervals?
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Old 12-24-2008, 07:53 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dictoresno View Post
i was considering going to Rotella-T 5W-40 on my next change. i blew up my first motor on M1 5-30. after a brand new block and two oil changes on RP, about 7000 miles, i was wondering if the 5-40 rotella would be a good choice. ive read over and over on here and the bob is the oil guy site trying to research the oil. so again, how many people have been running Rotella-T 5W-40 and have success with it? i really dont want to risk blowing this car up again. i dont track it or race it its just a daily driver.
By all accounts, Rotella T 5W-40 is an excellent oil and I'll probably be switching to it for my next oil change due to its value and availability. The only possible concern is if your car burns oil, the extra phosphorous in Rotella might damage your cats.

A cSt viscosity @ 100 degrees C of 15.5 makes me salivate!
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Old 12-24-2008, 08:04 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Astroguy View Post
I commonly read that Rotella 5w40 is recommended, any thoughts on the 15w40 variety for those of us that live in mild climates (say greater than 30 F temps)? I've actually read some threads at BITOG suggesting the 15w40 is more shear stable than the 5w40, for example here... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...ue#Post1220861

So despite 5w40 being synthetic and 15w40 plain dino, if the 15w40 is more shear stable wouldn't it be a better candidate for mild climate or summer use?...and also extended change intervals?
well....i would say that if you prefer long change intervals.....4k+ miles....use the 5w40
if you are just gonna dump it every 3k.....use the 15w40
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