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Old 12-03-2008, 02:39 PM   #1
D Money
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Default DSS Aluminum driveshaft, more harm than good?

So i've been reading lately that the Driveshaft shop driveshaft has terrible fitment. Most say, you have to notch out the rear subframe to fit, some are too short or too long, and they give terrible vibrations as if the wheel was going to fall off anywhere from 100-130mph. Can anyone confirm? If that's the case, i'll save the $450 on my build and just get a R180 yoke and make that work with my 5mt and 5mt driveshaft. I would like to go with the ACPT c/f version, but it's too expensive and I can't justify spending that kind of cash.

So basically, what are your opinions and do I really really need an aftermarket driveshaft?
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Old 12-03-2008, 02:46 PM   #2
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I dont know if you really get any gains from it anyway. Clearance is minimal, fitment is terrible. I would spend your 450 bucks on something else. But thats me. Someone else may have something good to say.
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Old 12-03-2008, 02:51 PM   #3
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Thanks foolio! I mean basically it's just the weight savings, very minimal at that, but more so the fact that I can order it to fit my pieced together drivetrain.

BTW, those heads worked out great for me! Thanks again on those.
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Old 12-03-2008, 02:53 PM   #4
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It's a rotating mass. You save more than weight from a light weight driveshaft. Your driveshaft is part of drive train loss.
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Old 12-03-2008, 02:54 PM   #5
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I understand that part, I didn't mean weight savings just from the curb weight of the car. I understand the concept.

What I am asking is, does anyone else have or have heard of these problems? If true, are these problems worth it?
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:24 PM   #6
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I have one installed on my car. The installer said it wasn't too bad to install and he only had to hammer a couple spots under the car. I bet that most of the people who complain about installing this thing, installed it lying on their back with the car on jackstands. Or even worse, everybody reads about a couple tough installs and then regurgitates it as being "fact".

I do get a slight vibration around 60mph. Just a little wub-wub-wub that is heard more then felt. It goes away at higher speeds. And I've pegged 5th gear with no bad vibrations up above 130.

As for gains, well the weight difference is huge. I carried my DSS driveshaft into the shop holding it in one hand, and dragged the old driveshaft back to my car holding it with two hands.
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:33 PM   #7
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Fitment on them has gotten better over the years and today's models are MUCH improved over when they first came out. They do require some work with a massage hammer, but nothing like days of old from what I've heard. They do have a speed rating though, so check their website as they are not rated over 120ish MPH or so.
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:35 PM   #8
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The speed rating is 150MPH. But how high do you think the floppy donky dick OEM driveshaft is rated to?
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:51 PM   #9
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What's the top speed of the STI? It's rated at least to that. The STI does have a different driveshaft design than the WRX though.

Quote:
and dragged the old driveshaft back to my car holding it with two hands.
The aluminum control arms weight about the same as the steel ones. Just because something is aluminum doesn't make it lighter. Aluminum's about 1/3 the strength of steel so, to get the same strength you need to use more aluminum than steel. Losing the joint in the middle probably saves you some decent weight.
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jays05 View Post
The speed rating is 150MPH. But how high do you think the floppy donky dick OEM driveshaft is rated to?
most likely a good bit higher since it has a center bearing support.

t
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Old 12-03-2008, 04:13 PM   #11
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I used to have a DSS aluminum driveshaft, I had nothing but problems with it. I did not get any noticeable or measurable performance benefit from it. Search either this user name or my old one WRBlue`02 for more details. I think I am V8Eater on IWSTI, I have likely posted something there as well.

Unless they drastically reduced the diameter of the shafts from what they were originally using, I can't se how the rear subframe does not need to be notched.
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Old 12-03-2008, 04:21 PM   #12
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^damn, just read your thread man. I don't think I will waste my money on the dss driveshaft at all now. Not worth it IMO, I would hate the car if it had problems...

What about their axles? In your thread, some say they come with incorrect measurements and one pair was 1" too short! wtf? And i'd be spending $1,200 for two axles? That's bull****.
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Old 12-03-2008, 04:33 PM   #13
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I don't have any personal experience with their axles, so I can't say anything about them for sure. Hopefully someone that does will chime in.

I know of another Suby owner that broke the tail end of his transmission case off while on the dyno using an unbalanced DSS driveshaft. Although, DSS did pay for a new transmission, I still wouldn't put another of their products on my car.
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Old 12-03-2008, 04:49 PM   #14
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I know someone who has one on his car, he said it feels like it "ties" everything together more. He said it does add some noise, but his car isn't heavily modded either. This is really hard to say wether this is worth doing or not. I have heard from some people who swear by them, but others who say it is much more trouble than it's worth...

And by the way - the only other options are the Braille and ACPT both are carbon fiber and both cost around $1300.
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Old 12-03-2008, 04:52 PM   #15
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search my posts for the DSS we had three at one time. all of them were off by at least 3/8 inch. never got a chance to drive it.
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:02 PM   #16
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^Tom, that is for the axles or driveshafts?
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:20 PM   #17
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Regarding their rear axles I can tell you that at least on 04/05, there is more than one type of CV boot and they tend to send the wrong one, then you have to send it back and get a new one. Happened with mine and one other car my shop installed them on. I can't say much more than that since my stock axles never broke and these DSS level 2 rear axle bars are holding up fine.
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:25 PM   #18
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Yeah, but since my car is put together from 100 different things I cant use the bar/boot upgrade, I need the full axles.

07 r180 + 5mt + 5mt driveshaft with r180 yoke so that means I need wrx outer splines on the axles to work with my wrx hubs and sti inner spines to work on the r180. lol

Wish I could order just the upgrade, I would save myself so much money. I could do that if I ever broke my front sti axles, haha.
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom@kartboy View Post
most likely a good bit higher since it has a center bearing support.

t
Very good point there!


Bigvalley runs this on their 9sec drag car, or at least they used to.

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Old 12-03-2008, 06:05 PM   #20
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They're having a group buy on the acpt right now.. for pretty good price.. so i was searching for reviews on it. I wouldnt get the DSS one just because i dont like bending and moding the floor board
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:47 PM   #21
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Here is a pic installed. And my rusty borla hush.

I think you NEED aftermarket rear diff mount bushings with this thing. If I had the stock rear diff mount bushings and launched the car it would rub in a lot of different places.

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Old 12-03-2008, 07:18 PM   #22
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D Money, I had their $1200 axles. In fact I just sold them the other day for 1/2 that. They clunked from day one and fitment into the diff wasn't great (which I told the guy who bought them). They work, they do what they say they do and I drove on them for several months including at the track.

I've since switched to a full 5x114 setup and I'm much happier, the STI axles don't clunk, and they have shields over the axle seals (which the DSS ones didn't). The STI rear hubs are stronger with larger wheel bearings and a thicker, stronger hub.

I'm not saying don't get the axles. I am saying it's not a perfect solution.
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:24 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jays05 View Post
Here is a pic installed. And my rusty borla hush.

I think you NEED aftermarket rear diff mount bushings with this thing. If I had the stock rear diff mount bushings and launched the car it would rub in a lot of different places.

so with stock bushings I will have a problem? Do those rear bushings really make that big of a difference?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterKwan View Post
D Money, I had their $1200 axles. In fact I just sold them the other day for 1/2 that. They clunked from day one and fitment into the diff wasn't great (which I told the guy who bought them). They work, they do what they say they do and I drove on them for several months including at the track.

I've since switched to a full 5x114 setup and I'm much happier, the STI axles don't clunk, and they have shields over the axle seals (which the DSS ones didn't). The STI rear hubs are stronger with larger wheel bearings and a thicker, stronger hub.

I'm not saying don't get the axles. I am saying it's not a perfect solution.
I remember you saying. I wanted to get them, but I had the fear of breaking them with no warranty, so one break and I woulda spent double the money I would have buying new.

I can't go 5x114.3 now, already have my custom wheels, front and rear bbk, etc. It would cost me thousands and thousands that I don't have...
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Old 12-04-2008, 01:32 AM   #24
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Or you can get an auto driveshaft.
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Old 12-04-2008, 02:31 AM   #25
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I am having some fitment issues with the DSS driveshaft as well. At first, it rubbed on the rear subframe without moving the car. I managed to get the tranny a bit lower, but I have not refitted the driveshaft to recheck clearance. The worst part is, regardless of the clearance up and down, the side to side subframe clearance is still very small.

I am going to be working with DSS for a solution, but unless they can make one smaller diameter, there is not much that can be done. Their website states that 3/4" is required on all sides, but with the lack of clearance from the rear subframe, I am not optimistic.
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